"The HUM Box V1" (Prototype Version)
The HUM Box is a creation of inspiration, picked up from the (H)ypercube-(U)ltimaker-Ivan (M)iranda Printers, and offcourse our own Tinkered version of the Ivan Miranda printer.
....This is a Finished working prototype....
....All parts are printed in PLA....
....First photo gives a View from the finished Prototype....
Once you created The HUM Box and dialed it in, you will notice that there is almost no need to re-adjust the level of the bed.
Neither is there a need for dual Z-endstops or a bed leveling sensor due the sturdy bed / frame build.
Be aware, Building the frame precise (equal lengths) and square (90 degrees angles) is mandatory on the success of your printer.
The reason we created The HUM Box:
We were not satisfied with the results of the Tinkered Ivan Miranda 300mmx300mmx500mm build, it's a nice printer as long as you don't go over the height limit of about 250mm. If you do, change the build to minimum 30x30 extrusions, better even 40x40.
Also a very high amount of Z-Wobble that almost can not be reduced.
Notes for The HUM Box V1:
Keep in mind that there is a lot of plastic used as we printed all parts with 100% infill, used filing / sanding / grinding / etc to come to the end prototype models in the design.
We kept the adjusted prototype printed parts on the printer but adjusted them digital.
Still, all parts look like the prototype, the parts are not optimized yet to use a minimum of plastic.
This most likely will come in an upgraded version, The HUM Box V2 (Optimized V1 printed parts).
Possible change in the X- and Y Carriages, holding a Chimera Hotend, running on a MKS 1.4 or MKS 1.5 and mounts for 40x40mm fans so we can use Noctua fans to reduce the noise even more.
Plans are also already on the table to create The HUM Box V2-L / The HUM Box V2-XL (2019/2020 or sooner if we have the time)
The 100% infill is not needed if you want to make The HUM Box, all up to you.
Most parts will do with 20 to 40% infill, 3 parameters, 4 top and bottom layers, at 0.2 layer height. All depends how sturdy you want to make it.
Print the "Mk2 Heat Bed Bracket" and the "Z T-Nut Bracket" or "Z M8-Nut Bracket" on 100% infill to avoid bending by tension.
Be sure to have the correct settings on your printer, all depends on your calibration and filament you use, print a square and circular calibration tower first so you can measure with your parts.
We happened to have a 2.3Kg spool of filament that had a 3.5% crimp factor.
We assume you have a perfect calibrated printer with the filament you use.
You swap filament and suddenly the dimensions are not correct anymore.
Two things you can do:
- Re-calculate the steps and adjust them accordingly in for example Marlin and flash the eeprom, retest, rins and repeat till it is correct again. (To much of a hassle)
- Calculate the percentage deviation on the filament crimp.
How to calculate the percentage deviation:
Formula to use: 100*(measured value-old value)/old value = percentage deviation
So for example after using the square tower:
The square extrusion will not fit in 20.5, meaning the new value is 20.6
The Deviation is then 100*(20.6-20)/20 = 3%.
This means that your filament has a 3% crimp.
Take your measurements in account and add the percentage in your slicer software when printing the parts. (Done)
Some Parts are used from the Tinkered Ivan Miranda Printer.
Both the X-Carriages with the Belt Clamps and the Y-carriage with the Belt Clamps.
3x bracket clamp to hold the rods in place
The Extruder Holder.
A few of the clamps with cable tray.
End of Re-used parts
The X-Carriage Motor bridge is adjusted to hold both the Y and X Limit switches so do not use it from there, a new one will be posted here.
Clean Electrical Design:
We tried to reduce the sight of loose wires, most of the times always all over the place.
Some are still visible, but either running thru a chain, or in a guide on the 20x20 extrusions.
Part List (Buyers Guide):
Below is a Part list of items to buy or items you have already laying around.
This can also be build with the 20x20 V-slot extrusions, but that will drive the price up with about 60 euro.
You can also use many parts of the Tinkered Ivan Miranda Printer to build this one.
Square extrusions Dimensions 20x20x1.5
4 x L=100 Frame Cabinet
4 x L=325 Frame Z-Direction
6 x L=426 Frame X-Direction
6 x L=314 Frame Y-Direction
2 x L=415 (Bed support)
2 x L=140 (Bed support)
8 x 20x20 Corner Bracing (3 way 90 degrees) (we bought these in the local hardware store, about 2 euro each but we took measurements and we made an stl for it so you can print them if you like. Print them with 100% infill
2 x 12mm smooth hardened rod L=475 X-Axis Motor and Idler side
2 x 12mm smooth hardened rod L=300 Y-Axis
4 x 12mm smooth hardened rod L=350 Z-Axis
1 x 8mm smooth hardened rod L=280 X-Axis Transfer rod
2 x M8 Threaded Rod L=300 (or T8-? Lead Screw) (Brackets for either will be available) (Just what you prefer to use)
14 x LM12UU Linear Bearing
1 x 608RS Bearing
3 x Flexible Threaded Coupler 5-8 mm 25mm
3 x Omron SS-5GL2
2 x Pulley GT2 20T BORE 5
1 x Pulley GT2 20T BORE 8
4 x Nema 17 42x42mm stepper motor
1 x Nema 17 42x42mm stepper motor (Dual Axis)
2 x Fan 30 x 30 12V
4 x 3mm Thumb Screws
1 x E3D V6 short version
1 x 1mtr of PTFE tube
1 x Power flip switch (On/Off), IEC 3 Pin 320 C14, 250V with 10A Fuse
1 x 12V - 30Amp Power supply
1 x 30 Amp Mosfet, we prefer the MKS version, stays very cool on use
4 x Pressure springs for the heated bed, stirdy ones: 0.9mm wire thickness, 7.2mm outer diameter, 30mm length, 14 windings, flat start end end.
1 x 12V Computer Case Fan for electronics cooling (we used an Aero Cool with 200 mm diameter)
2 x Micro- or on/off switches, best to use on/off with build in led indicator to see if a fan is on or off, used for the extruder and cabinet fan to switch off if printer is not running.
1 x Anycubic Ultrabase 200 x 200 (with Heated bed of Anycubic, complete set)
1 x 1Mtr of 10x15 Cable Chain with 2 start and 2 end connectors
1 x 1Mtr of 7x7 Cable Chain with a start and end connector
M3 / M5 Bolts / Nuts (some M5 Nyloc Nuts) different lengths
Ferrules / Crimp connectors / Electronic Wires (use correct thickness)
GT2 6mm Belt (get a roll of 5 or 10 meter, not needed but you will have spare belt in case something goes wrong)
4 mm thick Plywood to make the electronics cabinet top and bottom (2 times 350x470mm)
Your preferred board. At the moment it is running on a Ramps 1.4 with standard stepper drivers and a graphical display.
Some Thick packaging Foam to use for sound / vibration dampening.
Handy to have:
Metric Drill Bits
Metric Hand Tap Threading Tools with corresponding drill bits
End stop connections used. (If you use X-Min you will have mirrored parts)
Parts to print:
If you don't have the parts from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2668054
Go over there and get the following files to print.
Cable_holder_V2_left_hand_side (2 times needed)
Cable_holder_V2_right_hand_side (2 times needed)
Y-Carriage_Belt_clamp (2 times needed)
New parts to print:
For the bed:
Z Axis Bearing Holder 1.0 (4 times needed)
Z T-Nut Bracket 1.0 (2 times needed) (If you plan to build it with a T8 leadscrew print those)
Z M8-Nut Bracket 1.0 (2 times needed) (If you plan to build it with a M8 leadscrew print those)
Z M8 Nut Blocker 1.0 (2 times needed) (If you plan to build it with a M8 leadscrew print those)
Mk2 Heat Bed Bracket 1.0 (4 times needed)
20 x 20 End Cap 1.0 (4 times needed)
For the frame:
20 x 20 Corner Bracing (3 way 90 degrees) 1.0 (8 times needed, buy or try to print)
Frame extender 1.0 (4 times needed)
Foot 1.0 (4 times needed)
X-Axis Bracket Front 1.0
X-Axis Bracket Front clamp 1.0
X-Axis Bracket Front motor 1.0
X-Axis Bracket Front motor clamp 1.0
X-Axis Bracket Back 1.0
X-Axis Bracket Back clamp 1.0
X-Axis Guide bracket 1.0
X-Axis Guide bracket clamp 1.0
Y-Axis Motor Bridge 1.0
Z-Axis Support Bottom (116mm) 1.0 (2 times needed)
Z-Axis Support Top (116mm) 1.0 (2 times needed)
Z_MIN switch holder 1.0
Bracket clamp 1.0 (3 times needed)
Motor bracket clamp 1.0
Belt Tensioner 1.0 (3 times needed)
Alignment of the Z-Axis Supports:
Use "X-Axis Bracket Front clamp 1.0" to align the Z-Axis support on top and bottom, alignment taken from the front of the printer with 0.5mm space between the bracket and Z-Axis supports. Align those parts first before placing the bottom box. You can flip the bracket 180 degrees to use on the right hand side.
Notes on the build:
Be sure that the Z-Axis rods have a snug fit in the Z-Axis supports.
All brackets that needs to be placed over the square extrusions of the frame, need to have a tight fit, though not need to be placed with the use of force.
For the print bed.
All brackets need to have a loose fit, but without any play
if your brackets for the heatbed have a snug fit, you can do the following trick to get them on a loose fit.
Slide the bracket over a piece of extrusion of about 100mm. This probably will need a bit of force to get them on, be sure that the bracket is about in the center of the extrusion.
Now get yourself a soldering iron and place it inside the extrusion and let it heat up.
Be patient and careful as the extrusion will get hot. Best is to use a towel to hold the extrusion when you start working on the bracket.
If the extrusion and the printed part reach the desired temperature, you will be able to start sliding the bracket over the extrusion.
Remove the soldering iron, switch it off and put it away on a safe spot.
Remove the bracket from the extrusion, let it cool down a bit, it will cool down faster then the extrusion, then place it back on the extrusion to slide it a few more times.
You should now have a loose fit without the need of using a file or sanding.
If you need to apply to much force to get the bracket on the extrusion, file it down first as it will not work with the above trick.
When assembling the bed frame, as shown on the first picture of the printer, the Mk2 Heat Bed Bracket 1.0 needs to be mounted at a 9.2mm distance from the Z Axis Bearing Holder 1.0. On the side where the Dual axis NEMA sits.
WARNING when you start printing:
Do NOT forget to switch on your cooling, else you will end up with a clogged extruder / overheated board.
3D_PP is not responsible for any damage / injuries what so ever in any kind of degree.
Building this printer is all at your own risk, as it is with all other builds you create.
Always shut down the Main Voltage Input when working on Electronic Components.
Know what you are doing, You are working with High Voltages and high temperatures.
Take NO Risks <<<
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If you made one, please share a picture of your design.