CR-10 FANG OEM fan duct assembly - easy & sturdy print

by ozfunghi Jan 20, 2018
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Excelent Design. Fits Perfect in Ender 3 Pro. I use 0.28 step, 4 wall, 20 infill. I choose the lateral remix for the duct. looks better for me.

I can't fit the BLtouch mounton V3-FANG-oz-fang_fixed_Netfabb. I have the CR-10S. The problem seems to be the gap between attaching the part for BLtouch to V3-FANG-oz-fang_fixed_Netfabb and the claws attached to the metal plate are too tight!

Great work. I have printed 40mm vent fang, unfortunately its vent holes are directing airflow far from the printing point. That causes printing of small items rather impossible - they are not cooled at all. Any chance to get design for 40mm vent looking like V3 fang with air directed closer to the printing point? Sorry for asking that, but I am not too experienced with reworking of such projects in 3d software :-(

Hello Sir Gorg
you might take a look at the V3 fang of the 40mm or the others the V3 is more based on airflow and also goes more into the direction of the Nozzle
i am using the V3 Design on my Ender 2 and could even do Bridging up to 100mm :D with a nice way of settings

It is good mod, but it has not enough clearance to be used with direct drive - I mean that one:

CR-10 FANG OEM V3 40mm FANG remix

how about you may use one with another Fan design? like the 5015? thats what i am using (they might be a bit louder but should work also nice)
if you wanna stick to your 40mm fan it would be understandable ^^

Thanks for the nice mount! I printed the Dual 5015 fan mount recently, but noticed the BL Touch mount seems to interfere with the left fan wind-tunnel. Is there any chance you could re-upload an updated version without the clearance issues? I'd really appreciate it. Thank you!

I made a LED light support which can be used with your mount.
Take a look over this support: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3683133

LED for 40mm Fan

Hi ! Firstable, congratulation for your work ! I printed it 5 mounths ago and was working like a rock, really sturdy and nice looking. I used it with a Bltouch and was really happy with it. My hot end was stoppered, then i realize my nozzle was locked in the hotend and no way to unscrew it. Actually it's bent and since 2 years that i print i never had a trouble with filament jam so i just discover it. So i decided to order an E3D V6 hotend copy to replace the stock one. But the way is i can't use this fang anymore since the e3d v6 hotend is not available in your files. I'd love you to publish an update with the e3d V6 support. it would be so great ! Anyway you did a great job, thank you !

Hi ozfunghi!, can you do this cut in your variant of the fang, I found it works better and it will allow some adjustment of the cold air spot, in case of longer nozzle, or a longer heat-break. I attached a sample to show what I mean, is not meant to be printed, this along with the simple mod I posted below will just make it better :)

Thanks and keep up the good work!

I had already thought of something like this, but the problem is, that the fang is connected to the 40mm coldend fanduct on the front. That means lowering or raising the fang, would also lower or raise the 40mm fanduct (and airflow). So either that would also need an adjustable slot on the 40mm duct, which is basically not possible in the current configuration, or it might blow too high (not effectively cooling the coldend) or too low (blowing onto the heaterblock for more issues).

Correct, that's I refereed to the mod of fan-duct I done and posted below. Combined works, I currently use them both modified.

Thanks for reply :)

I 've also been thinking of a different option, to make the fangs extendable. But that would also require a redesign of the fang. But that way the entire upper compartiment could stay fixed, and you could just slide the two fangs further down or up. I mean, it's been on my mind, but i haven't thought of the best solution yet, and would need to take the time to really get it right.

the new v3 dual 5015 can mount ezabl?

Made simple mod of the fan duct only
it suits better for me and had better results, it allows more easy (un)mounting, adjustable mounting height, thus allows the cooling of heat-break and two screws of CR-10 stock hot end, if one wants to.
The plastic doesn't touch the aluminium sideways so there is a bit of layer of cold air which, in my case at least, helped in better cooling, maybe also because the plastic if touched the aluminium builds heat in time in case of long prints and such it keep warm, or maybe the extra space for air make the air flow better, no idea, but once it work better I'm using it, maybe some one else will do.

If you can test and find it works better and is useful, feel free to add it in your thing.

BTW, excellent thing. Thanks!

Small mod of CR-10 FANG OEM fan duct assembly

Hi ozfunghi! i have a Tronxy X5S and I would like to try your V3 fan duct design. please add also a version of your model compatible with a single 4020 radial fan. thanks

Hi, I printed and mounted the V3 Version succesfully and I am very satifsfied with the result. You specified that the V3 is not compatible with the ABL mounts, are you planning or know of any compatible mounts ? I am planning to upgrade to EZABL soon.

I've seen some people mount them successfully... but i know that the design does not fit 100%. It may be "good enough", and it may also be possible to just cut (or melt) off a bit of plastic that's in the way. So, maybe you could try (it's a small and fast print).
I think i'll upload a V3 of the mounting plate in the next week or two, and maybe i can take a look at the EZABL and BLT mounts while i'm at it.

Thanks for the reply. I'll print one and see how it goes as soon as the EZABL arrives, will be a week or two though, so maybe your improved version is already up ! Still great work on the other models :)

I'm going to print this, can you help me choose which 40mm fans to use both on the extruder and the fang?
Consider that the printer is in my bedroom running overnight

Hello SteelFalcon i can say when you pull the stock fan out of the Shroud from the CR allready it becomes a lot quiter,
but i will go for the Noctua 40x10 for both, actually you can also go for the 20mm of Noctua (More airflow at les RPM)

Thank for the reply mate, I need to replace both of them anyway because they are making a rattleing sound they didn't make in the past...
Going to buy the Noctua then, even thou I don't like the color :)

This design is absolutely fantastic! The tolerances are spot-on. Everything fits well and the final result feels rock solid. The BLTouch mount is perfect, as well. The offsets are -40, -10 as he mentioned in the instructions. A nice added perk is that the design of the BLTouch mount lines up the probe with the nozzle so well that my Z-probe offset is now ZERO (note that I do use a 100 ms delay in Marlin). Well done, and thanks for sharing!

Do you have an installation video or instructions for the CR-10s? Thanks! Also, is extra hardware needed?

PS: extra hardware, you could use some extra screws and bolts, but i just used 3 screws from the 40mm fan (the fan can be attached with only one screw). In that case you don't need extra screws.

The instructions are in the description.

cant cant this to fit over my hotend cr10 mini

It took some wiggling but it does fit fine on my mini. I just printed it in PLA and the horns near the nozzle have half broken. Need to print in PEGT obviously or use thicker walls

Are you planning to design a duct for the CR-X nozzle? Do mind sharing the 3D model file? I bought this gearbest 2 in 1 out nozzle (similar to CR-X) for my CR-10S and the current ducts in your model don't fit.

I realized too late this won't work with the E3D V6 :*(

Why do you have the little step on the hanging part of the back plate that doesn't touch / cover anything?
Can you release a flat version so no supports are needed?

No. If it is flat, it will smash into the screw that is sticking out on the far (right) end of the axis, if the hotend moves to the far right. The indentation is there for a reason.

I am not sure about what screw you are talking about. I checked on my printer and there is nothing on the way. The only screws are the ones holding the x belt tensioner but the plate will not reached it (I printed one and tested).

Also, you may want to check the EZABL bracket. The indentation to keep it aligned is about 1mm lower than its counter part so it keeps rotating. The probe hole is also too large and the probe doesn't get a proper tight and snug fit.

I tried to open the STL in Fusion 360 and they load 10 times larger in mm.. do you know why?!

Thanks for making a great product better! I can see the thought that went into your design.

2 Questions, 1) do you print it with PLA and should i worry about it melting due to the hot end? should I anneal it? and 2) Does it also use the OEM hardware or will i have to go purchase new hardware.

If you print it in PLA, and you intend to only use it for PLA prints, it will probably be fine. But if you want to print higher temp filaments, i would not use PLA, but ABS or PETG. You can try to anneal, but this process usually also skews the proportions of the print, so i don't know if this is preferable.
Depending on which model you will print, ideally you will need some extra M3 screws. But to be honest, i just screwed my hotend fan with only 1 screw, and used the other 3 screws for the rest of the assembly. If you want, you can even glue or melt some parts together.

The only thing is, I don't currently have the capability to print with ABS as i do not have an enclosure. I generally only print PLA at the moment but I would like to branch out a little bit eventually. any thoughts on high temp PLA?

kpj51 ... If you can print PLA you can at least print PETg ... And your stock nozzle can print low temp ABS if you can get your heat plate up to 100+ ... PLA is crap for these parts... It sags under even a little heat... At least try your hand at PETg but I will also say it takes some time to dial in however its worth it... ABS is my favorite filament at the moment tbh, the heat threshold is just too useful to crap on it for being stinky! :)

Don't worry about it. You can always disassemble the fang and replace one or two parts with ABS or PETG parts later on. The only part that really might become problematic is the 40mm fan part.

Hello, it's compatible with Touch Mi leveling ?

Sorry, i don't even know this leveling sollution. Maybe someone else can tell.

Do you know if you can use a 20mm deep part cooling fan with this? It doesn't look like its gonna fit, but I thought I'd risk asking an obvious question lol. I need to use a better cooler (Noctua A4x20) with the MicroSwiss to avoid heat creep.

The part cooling fan can only be 15mm if you are using the fang for a 5015.... the other fang is for the stock part cooler... you DO realize that the part cooling fan has nothing to do with heat creep and the hotend fan right? In which case as long as the hotend fan is 40x40 you shouldn’t have an issue... as long as you have long enough screws to mount it and the fan moves enough air to cool the hotend sufficiently...

Maybe I didn't explain very well. I want to use a 20mm deep fan for the extruder on my MicroSwiss hot end, nothing to do with the 5015 part cooler. However, it looks like the deepest fan I can fitis a 40x40x10mm, as the ducts coming past it from the part fan are slightly overlapping the top two corners of the 40x40mm fan.
Because of the increased temps for the MS hot end, it's suseptible to heat creep, so it's recommended to use a fan capable of moving more air at the 'cold end' and the Noctua 40x40x20mm is the perfect candidate.
Have I made sense? My apologies if I haven't been clear.

There is clearance for a deeper fan... (no overlap)

Gotcha... well as an experiment I held my spare 40x40x10 fan in front of the one I had mounted to see if they would double stack without an issue and there seems to be clearance

Anyone have or know the offsets for the abl sensor being on the left side? I think the ones provided are for the sensor being on the right side, thanks in advance

The V2 Fang fills in using S3D.... just to let you know

If you open it in Windows 3D Builder it automatically repairs it. Just save it as a new STL

Thanks... I already did that... I was just making a note in case others weren’t already aware, since the problem with the fang isn’t mentioned with the others

My apologies. I made the same mistake, hence my reply, but he does mention it in the description.

I had a really hard time printing the "carriage-plate". The corner "floats" over the place where the screw will be. I thought the printer should be able to bridge that small gap or placing support would help, but neither did. I finally realized that it is building at layer 6 and the cooling fan is not enabled in the slicer (till about layer 30). After changing my cooling options in Cura to initial fan speed 10% and regular fan at layer 6, it improved the print quality.

Just wanted to say thank you for an excellent design. It works perfectly and I couldn’t be more pleased. Also, thank you for having the foresight to make it so easily printable. I printed mine with very little support and the results were excellent. I’ve enclosed a picture of the installation. All the best dude

Hello, can I download V3?
I can not find them.
Many Thanks

Only available in the comments. Here it is: https://www.thingiverse.com/asset:76009

Are you going to do a 5015 version of the V3 please? Also, it would be handy if I could fit a 40x20mm fan please. Thanks again for an awesome design and the work you obviously put in to maintain it!

Thank you for the fast reaction.
The other parts are currently being printed. V3 will be printed tonight!
I'm happy about it.

Awesome design dude. This is going on my CR-10S. However, the standard 40mm fan duct has something wrong with the model. I had to pull it into Windows 3D Builder and relive it, or Simplify3D tried to fill it (see pic).
No biggie and easily fixed. Just thought you’d like to know.

Yep, i know. It's in the description, if this happens, use netfab or something to "fix" the file. The files are exported from Blender, and some slicers don't like Blender.

My apologies. I didn’t read all the way through the description. You know what it’s like when you’ve got your printer all primed and ready to go lol. It’s printed perfectly anyway.
Thanks again for an excellent design. I love the 5015 and this is the perfect host for it in my opinion.
I’ve enclosed a pic because I’m really impressed you took the time to orient it for best printing results. Something so rarely considered when posting these models.

Clean print :)

The V2 fang does the same thing (filling in)

Comments deleted.

Hello all,I'm printing out the parts but I can't for the life of me find the carriage clip and what its for ......Thank you.

See the images.

Thanks,but they are not that clear regards how the pieces fit together,that's not to say you can't work it out.The carriage clip is not in the files as far as I can see.

It's called FANG-oz-carriage-plate-clip.stl and it is 11kb in filesize.
You mount it as a backup safety at the back of the carriage, so the carriage plate can't wiggle back and forth on the metal carriage.

Hello ozfunghi, I modeled a new fang (with 5015 mount) for your assembly from scratch using sub-d modeling. Its design is a bit closer to your V3 fang but it features very smooth shape transitions and it's optimized for printing without supports. While the tip of the fang resembles V3, it is spread apart slightly more (relieves harsh overhangs) and it's also pointed more towards the printed part instead of the nozzle. I went through several iterations and test prints to optimize the design. It works great for me and I hope you or anyone else here can also give it a go!

Link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3091560

CR-10/10S/Ender3 FANG for 5015 Fan - Smooth Design
by amass3d

Looks very nice and slick!

Thanks! I will modell an additional variant that will have a cable holder. As it is now, the bowden tube and cables slightly bump into the fan on top so I think adding some kind of holder won't hurt to prevent it from sliding back and forth.

Thinking of printing this, but I only have PLA available right now (and it takes time to get decent filament where I live). Is there a version that works ok with PLA or can you suggest which material works best where for this print please.

You can print it in PLA, if you will only print PLA with it. If you want to print ABS etc, then the temperature of the hotend will be too high for the fang, and it will become less rigid. You can also print it in PLA (all parts) and afterwards, reprint the 40mm duct and the carriage plate in ABS or PETG in case you feel the temperatures are too high for the PLA parts that are in direct contact with the hotend. There is no need to reprint the actual fang imo.

I had a look at the V3 fang. IT's a nice Design and I like the outlets looking more towards the nozzle, but I use ABL and the fang is so wide that the sensor needs to be replaced further outside the center of the nozzle. But between the heatsink fan and the fang is really much space. So is it possible to keep the outside Dimensions of the V2 Fang and only use the new outlets towards the nozzletip ?

Comments deleted.

Why is the carriage plate back not flat and has a little hollow on the lower right side? Is it on purpose? Thanks

Yes it is on purpose. If you slide the carriage all the way to the right, you will see why. So it doesn't bump into a screw on the right side of the X axis.

@ozfunghi I see your print times in the details. What speed are you printing this stuff at? 120mm/s is telling me 7 hrs 44 min, that's with 1 wall, 100% infill, printing at 0.2.

can't remember exactly, but i normally print my (outer) walls at +/- 30mms, inner walls (not in this case) around 55mms, and infill around 70mms i think. If you get those times at 120mms, please check the slices in preview, and check that the slicer isn't filling parts that should be hollow (like the inside of the fang). What slicer are you using?

why is there an obstruction on the fan duct itself? after a few millimeters from the base the pathway of the air is blocked.. this is sliced without supports and you can see there is an obstruction.. am i missing something here????

this is the v2 fang. the V1 does not have this problem

sliced with S3D 4.0

As stated in the description, some models don't slice well with S3D. You can either try Cura, or run the models through netfab first before slicing with S3D.

Work it on the ender 2

I think it does. Try printing the plate, and if that fits, the rest of the parts should fit as well.

Comments deleted.

Love the design of the V3 Fang. Would love to see a 40mm version

If you are looking for a fang upgrade look no further. This is fang system is the business! The design is a really light, strong and a well thought out. It does not have the lame fragile web inside the housing that explodes if you look at it wrong like many of the other fang designs. Best of all it is modular so you can try different setups without having to reprint the entire fang unit. Hear me now and believe me later this is the fang setup you need.

Thank you so much for this awesome design. I would love to modify your fang V2 or V3 for my odd sized blower. would you happen to be able to upload the STEP file ( or some other format that i could use in Fusion 360) for it? Thanks :)

I don't even know the step format. Everything is done in Blender. The blend file of the original design is in the files section. I haven't had the time to clean the files of the newer versions up (they are very chaotic).

Comments deleted.

Thanks for this - I've printed V2 OEM and it works reasonably well. One thing I've noticed, it doesn't seem like the hot end is completely vertical - it's at a slight angle. Given the holes in the back-plate mount fitted the lugs on the back plate perfectly, it seems that either my hot end is bent, the x-carriage is not completely horizontal or the lugs on the carriage are not horizontal. I know the X-beam itself is level as I use a pair of pillar spacers to get each end the same height from the base.

Anyone else have this issue? Printing is ok, but, this cannot be optimal as the nozzle will be at a slight angle.

I have the same issue, yet everything is modelled in symmetry. It is very slight however in my case. See the pictures.

Sounds like either you have a it installed wrong or it did not print right. I did not have this problem. Is it possible that it is the high quality that Creality puts that is causing the problem and you never noticed it before?

I designed the thing, so i most certainly printed & installed it correctly :-)

How about that, you did design it. Great job! This thing is great!

I printed the V3 fangs, but my bed adhesion needs some work. Chucked the fangs right off as it it was finishing the angled tips. They're installed but I had to heat and bend them to correct the flow. HIGHLY Recommend printing on a raft if you're using glass. Also definitely trickier to install (especially since I'm using nuts) this assembly but I like that it's more modular. I'm currently printing a remix of the V3 using a 5015 adaptor. I'll let you know how it goes.

Also, I designed dial gauge mount for this. Just enough clearance for the V3 fangs since they're thicker than the V2.

Dial Gauge Holder for ozfunghi's CR-10 FANG OEM fan duct assembly

Thanks for sharing. I usually use hairspray on glass (mirror). So far hasn't come loose.

Is the Duct supposed to have 4 holes in the corners? I see it on the file but the 2 times i've printed it, they've been solid in the corners, not holes.

Some slicers are having problems with some files. You can try running the file through netfab. https://service.netfabb.com/login.php
I only use Cura, and Cura slices them without issues.

Printed this and installed it today. I really like it so far. I had that rattling noise mostly on the x axis movement. Removed the front screw on the 40mm fang and it was gone. Cheers!

These fangs seem to be blowing straight down rather than at the nozzle. Is that a design choice?

You'd have to ask the original designer of that fang design. Originally i only made the assembly concept. I have made my own fang design in the V3 version. Feel free try it out, it should blow right below the nozzle, but it has less clearance.

I printed the V2 and mounted it tonight. Beautifully designed! I did have to scrounge M4 bolts to mount the fang to the carriage plate and the duct to the fang. It worked, and I even used a tap and die set to get threads started.

One question...the fans are vibrating like crazy now...so much that it's crazy loud and distracting. Does anyone have any easy solutions for vibration damping? The body of the fang is basically turning into a great big amplifier for the fan vibrations. I was going to try some home-made rubber band damping. Anyone had luck with this?

Keep up the great work!

Is it possible to include a slot to mount a dial gauge on the side?

Printed PERFECTLY with 15+infill and no supports. This has so far improved my prints for sure! I did print V2, I will keep an eye on V3 and print that later once I see a little more feedback. Great job! ANYONE with a CR-10 should print this!

hey what are the 2x bolts M? (and lengths) for attaching the fang to bracket, and the 1x bolt M? (and length), clip holding the bracket to carriage, thanks...OR if you can direct me to all the bolts on this setup, if its was listed...I didnt spot it in the instructions.

The original bolts are M3x16mm. I wound up stripping the first couple threads in one of the holes and had to get longer bolts. I purchased a bag of 2 M3x20mm at home depot (in the specialty bolt/screw section), which cost 51c per bag. The longer bolts work perfectly fine.

Everything is M3. To connect the plate to the carriage, you just reuse the ones that held the stock metal fanbox to the carriage.
To connect the fang to the plate, i used two of the screws of the 40mm fan. For the little clip and to connect the 40mm duct to the fang, 20mm should be plenty.

Hi, are you still working/testing the V3 Fang and if so do you have any plans releasing one for 40*40 fans?

Best Reg!

I was hoping for a bit more feedback on the V3 model first, but only a few people have commented on it. I intend to tweak it for the stock fan and release 40mm and 5015 versions of it, if people think it's worth it. But since feedback is only slowly trickling in, i'm not sure if people think it's worth it.

Hola! Buen trabajo!!
Hice el V3 pero.....es más grande para mi ventilador radial original, podría ser ajustado en su Stl??

Hello! Good job!!
I made the V3 but ..... it's bigger for my original radial fan, could it be adjusted in its Stl ??
Thank you

Olga, you mean the fan mount is too big? How much too big? Can you post a picture? Can't it be resolved with a little bit of paper tape?

Sí, en la foto puedes ver que esta torcido el ventilador y está sujeto con 4 tornillos, aun así, queda bastante hueco.....entre 1mm por el lado izquierdo y unos 2 o 3 mm más por el lado derecho......

Yes, in the photo you can see that the fan is twisted and is fastened with 4 screws, even so, it is quite hollow ..... between 1mm on the left side and about 2 or 3 mm more on the right side ... ...

I'm afraid you did something wrong in the slicer, scaling the width of the object, or your printer is very badly calibrated. Your print is much wider than the actual model. So either, it was made wider in the slicer, or your printer is making it wider. This is not an error in the design or the STL. Can you please show a picture from the top?

Trabajo con "Cura"
No se modificó el archivos Stl......
Nunca he tenido problemas al imprimir las piezas Stl......
Si fuese la calibración de la impresora, las demás piezas deberían estar mal....no? y no es así, las demás piezas son perfectas.......

I work with "Cura"
The Stl files were not modified ......
I have never had problems printing the Stl parts ......
If it was the calibration of the printer, the other parts should be wrong ... no? and it's not like that, the other pieces are perfect .......

Can you please measure the outside width of the fan mount? It should be 15mm (see image). Possibly 16mm if the corners bulge a bit. You can measure this in the STL if you want. If your print is wider than 16mm, and judging by the picture you showed, it is, then something went wrong with your print. I just checked the STL, and the measurements are correct, as is my print from the same STL file.

Could you also measure the width of your stock fan? It should be 10mm.
Also, could you please post a picture from above? Thank you.

More than likely, something went wrong in your slicer. Maybe you stretched it by accident, trying to move it on the buildplate in Cura. I don't know.

V2 fang does not fit a dual 40x20mm Noctua fan setup. The hot end duct wont bolt to the fang with a 40x20mm fan installed. Love the design, just not usable for me.

i think some people in the "makes" section have used Noctua fans, but i'm not sure which versions.
Which fang version (mount) did you use? 5015? 40mm? Stock? If stock, you could try the V3 fang, i think it does have enough space for a larger 40mm fan.

I printed all the V2 parts. I bought the 40x20mm Noctua fans. Im actually working on a 20m spacer that twists the fan 45°, should allow perfect fitment, and look cool lol.

Hey, i meant, which V2 fang did you print? The one for the stock radial fan, or the 5015 or 40mm fan? There are 3 V2 versions for different fans. If you are still using the stock fan for part cooling (on the V2 fang), you could consider printing the V3 fang instead, since i do believe this would fit a larger 40mm for hotend cooling.

I printed the V2 40mm fang. I didnt see a V3 fang in the files.

It's only in the comments section for download, since it's a new (experimental) design. But it also only exists for the stock radial fan mount. So if you want to use a 40mm fan for part cooling, you can only use the V2 one. If i get more feedback for the V3 model, i'll make it with other fan mounts as well, such as the 5015 and 40mm fans. Thanks for the feedback.

I see now where everyone used the 40x10mm Noctua fan for hot end cooling where I have the 40x20mm. Oh well. I will finish the fan rotating extension print and use it, don't really feel like returning the fan or dealing with amazon. Thanks for being super quick with a response.

hi, first off awesome job and kudo and many thanks to the designers efforts on this design project...beautifully done and engineered! I am having problems getting screws through the fang mount holes into the fang mount tabs holes in the carriage plate without breaking off the carriage plate tabs every time. I have tried .1, .15, and .2 layer height with 100% fill, .8 top bottom thickness, shell thickness 1.2, 40% speed, hot end temp 250c and bed 100c. I am using a .4 stainless nozzle with silver Pxmalion abs filament (The part seems too brittle for the amount of stress put on those tab holes even after drilled to stripping point size because the angle of the fang tabs is slightly off from the angle in the carriage tabs when attached). I am using just a 3mm fine thread bolt and drilling the holes to .125 and the screws measure .132 which just barely enough meat to grip the screw and they don't break when pre threading but as soon as i attach the fang after pre-threading the screws in the carriage first the tabs break right off (it seems like the angle between the fang tabs and carriage tabs is off just enough to put too much stress on the carriage tabs to break them off within the first few threads into the fang holes that have been pre-threaded also. Maybe i need to hold the two parts together and drill the through holes oversize at the same angle and use a small and long enough bolt that goes all the way through and try to get a nut on the other side??? All the other parts printed beautifully and flawlessly with no post print cleanup at all and look picture perfect!. The fang and clip printed absolutely beautiful with silver 3d solutech pla set at.1 layer height and all other setting set the same the abs settings except temp of course at 210c and 50c. The duct printed beautifully with the same abs filament as the carriage with the same setting as the carriage plate. Any help would be greatly appreciated because this darn carriage plate is the only show stopper at this point with all other parts and hardware ready for install and I am really also hoping it fits the Micro Swiss all metal hot end i have ordered and is on its way. Thank you in advance for any help provided:)
Update on this issue...I have finally figured out after breaking 7 carriage plates that the v3 c fang is too thick to fit in the v2 carriage plate slots and thats what is causing the tabs to break off each time. The thickeness spreads out the tabs and they break off instantly. I will have to use a dremmal to sand the inner or outter side of the fang down thinner so it fits in between the mounting tabs with no binding....

Strange. Maybe try heating up the screws? Turning them in slowly (back and forth, just a bit further every time). Or heating up something to widen the holes with, just a tiny bit? Maybe a screwdriver?

Also, did you follow the mounting instructions? First the plate to the carriage. Then the fang to the plate*, and after that, the 40mm duct + hotend. This way (from the instructions):

(*) attach the fang to the carriage plate (+screws) (EDIT: make sure the holes are lined up properly and maybe it's best to squeeze the plastic parts together with your fingers while screwing so that the screw doesn't push them apart and snap the plastic parts)


But you can only do that last part, if you follow the instructions and mount the hotend with the duct after that, so that there is enough room for your fingers to squeeze the parts together as you tighten the screws.

Thank you for your support you are awsome:) I have finally figured out after breaking 7 abs carriage plates that the v3 c fang is too thick to fit in the v2 carriage plate slots and that is what is causing the tabs to break off each time. The thickness spreads out the tabs and they break off instantly. I will have to use a dremmal to sand the inner or outer side of the fang tab down thinner so it fits in between the mounting tabs with no binding...hey...only took me 7 to figure it out hahahahaha derrrrrr....I will let you know how the the 8th one works after i sand the fang down:) Do you know if the V2-FANG-oz-40mm-duct that i printed will fit the micro swiss all metal hot end? It looks the same as the stock cr10 hot end but don't know if it is actually the same size or not...

The V3 fang uses the exact same "fins" as the V2. So it should still fit. Are the corners of the fins bulging a bit? It might be enough to sand those down in that case. They mounted fine on my setup, and haven't heard any issues from others. In any case, sanding the fang side down, seems like the easier thing to do than sanding in between the clips on the plate. Alternatively, you could try running a hot screwdriver/metal along the bulging corners.

The stock 40mm duct doesn't really fit the Microswiss, which is why there is a Microswiss alternative in the files to download.

update: i got my printer working again...it seems that it doesn't like the stainless nozzles i bought on amazon because i went back to the micro swiss nozzle i thought was worn out and re-leveled my bed with the same tape on the bed and its working fine where as no matter what i did i could not get those stainless nozzles to lay a first layer and i guess the micro swiss nozzle was not worn out after all...sure wish i knew why i cant get the stainless ones to work because i bought 8 of the dam things:((

When i hold the 2 together the fang is too wide to go all the way down between the tabs and starts pushing them apart. Maybe it has something to do with the fact i printed the carriage with abs and the fang with pla i don't know but it should be an easy sand job to make the fang seat right at the bottom between the tabs and my god your awesome! Must be why they pay ya the big bucks hahaha!! I didn't even see the micro swiss duct or i would have printed it instead because i am waiting to install all this until it comes. I am prefabbing it all so it will be an easy install when it comes Monday and suddenly after printing 8 carriages I am having problems getting the abs to stick to my mirror with painters tape on it even using glue stick and hair spray on top of that after changing my hot end nozzle out to a stainless one because it seemed that the 8th carriage didn't come out near as nice as the first 7 and i suspected my micro swiss nozzle was worn out and now cant seem to get the new nozzle to lay down a first layer that sticks but I will certainly print the micro swiss duct after figuring out my printing issue resolved.... Man...problems problems!

Did you tip me? Woohoo. That's my first tip! That wasn't what i meant by saying that, but nevertheless, thanks. :-)

I'm disappointed to say, they don't pay me the big bucks, lol. Hope you get it working. I also have stainless steel nozzles underway... hope i can get them to work.

hahahaha...that was a joke my friend:) I think the problem with the stainless nozzles is that i cannot get them hot enough with the original hot end without burning the filament and i am hoping they work with the all metal hot end but if not I am going to get a refund on them from amazon. As an update on the fang and carriage I sanded the fang down to about .050 for it to fit between the carriage tabs without breaking the tabs off the carriage. The distance between the v2 carriage tabs is way undersize compared to the thickness of the v3 c fang tabs. I am doing a little trouble shooting for you to see where or if something changed along the way and am very surprised no one else ever had reported it as requested input from you so i am trying to provide feed back as you asked ok:). So i printed the first version fang and carriage and the fang is still too thick for the carriage but not near as much as between the v3 fang and v2 carriage but would break if fang is not sanded thinner. I am going to print the v2 fang next and see what the difference is between it and the v2 carriage. I got the v3 fang from your post in the comments dated march 31 2018 i believe. If there is a newer one that doesn't have as thick tabs please let me know:) I am using pla to print and trouble shoot this and not abs using all the same settings in cura .15 layer thickness, 1.2 shell thickness, top and bottom .8 print speed only 40 .3 initial layer thickness and everything prints accurate as hell with all holes lined up with one another and absolutely perfect visually so its definitely either the distance between the tabs on the carriage is undersized or the fang tabs are too thick and if no one else ever had a problem before something changed somewhere along the way recently i would think. I will let you know the results between the v2 carriage and v2 fang and post pics of the parts i plan to use with the micro swiss hot end which will be the v3 c fang, v2 carriage, swiss duct and v2 clip and possibly the other sets to give you a visual of the thickness differences between them but i have already sanded the v3 fang and forgot to get photos of it before i did so can only tell you the difference is drastic between the it and the v2 carriage....I haven't measured anything with digital calipers but can if you cant find the problem in the cad files and want me to...good luck with the stainless nozzles too! please let me know if they work for you and how you did it and i will let you know if they work with the micro swiss all metal hot end or not ok:)

i'll take another look at it later (going to bed now). But i just imported the V2 and V3 stl files, and the "fins" or the "tabs" or whatever, are exactly the same width. See picture.

thx for that information...the v2 fang is almost done printing and they do look to be the same fin thickness as the v1..can you compare the thickness of the fang fins to the gap dimension between the 2 carriage tabs on both v1 and v2 carriages and see what the dimension should be in the file?(wondering how accurately mt printer is printing). I sanded the v3 fang fins down to .055 on the ends to .095 at the holes(tapered) to get them to fit down in between the carriage mounting tabs without breaking off the tabs. Not sure what they measured off the printer but wish i had measured them before i removed all that material...they visually looked way thicker then these v1 and v2 fangs look to start out and above the holes where i didn't sand they measure .115 to .120 depending upon where you measure around the designed high and low areas in that area ..The v1 and v2 fang fins both measure .105 thick off printer(pla), v1 carriage tab gap measures .105 top and bottom(PLA), v2 .095 top to .105 bottom(abs) with calipers.

Por favor, no veo la V3....donde la consigo??
En su comentario de a bajo.....no está.

Please, I do not see the V3 .... where do I get it?
In his comment of a low ..... it is not.
Thank you

You can download it in this message:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2763931/#comment-1836513 (copy paste if needed).

CR-10 FANG OEM fan duct assembly - easy & sturdy print

Just realized there is no V3 version posted... can you please post it so I don't have to use someone else's fang? Thanks!

You can download the V3 here in this comment below.

CR-10 FANG OEM fan duct assembly - easy & sturdy print

Thanks very much!

Since you mentioned that this was based onthe Racush fang I printed it because I broke the Racush one. You must have designed the V2 fang after an earlier version because your fang is not angled at all like his current one. The V3 fang looks much better so I’ll toss the V2 and print it instead... very nice design btw...could use better installation instructions but awesome design!

I printed this out for using the original OEM fans. I can't get the duct installed around the hot end. The wires are folded very close to it and I'm afraid they will break if I bend them away to make enough clearance. I tried putting it on from the back side also, just to test for fit and it's very tight to the fins. I can't slide it on even when the wires aren't in the way. Am I doing something wrong?

Did you follow the installation instructions? First the plate, then the fang, then slide the hotend through from above, slide on the duct and mount both from below?

Yes, I followed the order of assembly. I finally got my courage up and bent the wires with a needle nose pliers so they weren't so close to the hot end, then pushed quite forcefully from the top and the duct moved down with a "pop". I didn't see anything broken so I pushed it the rest of the way down. I'm printing the 3D printer test (mini version) now to compare to what I printed a couple months ago.

Which fang version did you use? V1, V2 or V3?

I used V2 fang (V2-FANG-0z-fang) per your response to Leoleonie below. I actually printed the 40mm V2 fang version before I realized it was the wrong one for stock fans.

V2 plate
v2 40mm duct
V2 fang OR V3 fang

This is what it looks like installed. I used screws from my scrap bin for some, and tapped M3 holes where I could.

Love the design, Quick question thou, ive printed everything in pla, mounted it, then realized ive should have printed in petg instead, is it possible to print atleast the hot-end-part in petg now, or do i have to remount OEM-fans and cover to print that part? Printed everything in PLA with 100% infill ive got a noctua 4020 fan cooling the hot end.

PLA should be fine for normal use. I've done short (3hrs) ABS prints with a PLA assembly. I don't know what temps you run your PETG, but for a short print, it shouldn't be a problem.

thanks for your great work.

I have a Problem with the 5015 fang.

i cant print overhang with more than 40Degrees.
I think the Problem is, that there comes no airflow to the nozzle.

used this file: FANG-oz-fang-5015

Can you blow air through? Did you check if the airways are blocked? If they are blocked, check your slicer settings (supports), make sure there are no supports inside.

I printed without support. I tested the fang with water and there i could see the problem.

In the picture you can see the air will flow together maybe 1-2cm under the nozzle.

Did i print the wrong fang?

Could you try this test with your current fang? See video. Take a thin slice of paper and check the airflow right below the hotend nozzle.

I'm sorry, i misunderstood your problem. I thought you meant to say the air was blocked.
The entire design of the fang assembly is based on someone else's fang design. Because i also felt the existing design wasn't pointed towards the filament flow, i redesigned the fang with V3. But this model only exists with the original stock fan mount. You can see in the picture how i pointed the airflow just beneath the tip of the nozzle.

I haven't had much time the past few weeks, and i was still waiting for some more feedback for V3 before putting in extra work. You can either try V3 with the stock fan, or you could try heating up the one you printed, with either hot water or a small torch, and gently push the tip of the fang to point higher.

I will try to make some time the following weeks to continue working on it.

I will try the test. I would be happy when v3 comes also for the 5015. My Stock Fan is broken..

I could try to change the design of the fang. But i need a .step file for Fusion 360.


Nice design, good job :)
Which file should i print if i want to use stock fan ?


V2 plate
v2 40mm duct
V2 fang OR V3 fang

V3 is experimental still, but i believe it is better. You can find it in the comments below.
If you print with Cura, all files should work. If you print with other slicers, it is possible you need to repair the STL files with netfab (https://service.netfabb.com/service.php), since STL's that are exported from Blender don't seem to be very popular in some slicers.

Ok thanks.
This setup will work on a Tevo tornado ?

I don't own a Tornado, so i don't know.

Does this version is compatible with the tevo tornado?

I have no idea. If the Tornado uses the same carriage, it should work. You can try printing the plate (maybe even just the first few layers) to see if it fits.

Can anyone please confirm if this works in the cr10 mini?

I know people have used it for the Mini, even for the Ender, the S, the S400 and S500.

I've printed the v3 fang but there's a serious issue with the top stock fan because the slot is too large and the fan itself isn't correctly blocked and locked so a great part of the air flow comes out from the lower sides of the fan.... I think i will print V2 because the fan attachment system looks much better.

Hi, sorry for the second post. I put an image in attachment, to show you how/where to put some tape (red). Sorry for the crude drawing. Also a comparison of the surface that is open for airflow in V2 vs V3. If you don't feel the draft after putting the tape, then the air you feel is not coming from inside the mount.

Hmmm, it fits my fan rather well. In my case, the airflow that you can feel on top, doesn't escape the mount, it is airflow caused by the outside of the fanwheel. You can check this by putting some tape around the upper right corner of the fan, sticking out (so air bouncing off the outside will be redirected), and see if you still feel the draft.
If anything, the attachment of V2 and V1 are absolutely not better, since they block roughly 40% of the fan's output.

I would be happy to pitch in to modify the mounting plate and design the mounts if you are using fusion 360.

I'm doing everything in Blender, but the idea is that the add-ons could be made in any program, from Tinkercad to Blender or F360. I haven't figured out yet how exactly, but it must be easy and sturdy.

Incredible work and comprehensive options. I just got my Ender 3 (same hot end as CR-10) and I think the V3 fan is perfect for my 5015 and Noctua 4010 but I am a little confused with all the options. Do you have a version with a mount for the SN04 auto level sensor?


I'm still waiting for a bit more feedback on the V3, before making other versions of it. Currently, there is only a V3 for the stock fan.
There isn't a mount for the sensor you are using. But one of the changes i want to put into a next version of the plate, is for a universal "add-on mount" so that users can make their own add-on easily. Be it a bed level sensor or a mount for a pen or pencil. That's the idea. If the V3 fang is a success, i will release 5015 and 40mm versions of it. I've been busy the last week with my X5S-400, trying to tweak it. When i'm done, i will continue with this project.

First, Great work Ozfunghi!

Second, question time, have you seen any differences Between the V2 fang and the V3 fang, in print quality?

I have only done a few prints with the V3, but i do feel it's an improvement... but i can't tell for 100% sure,because i haven't made the same prints as before yet. I've been away for a few weekends, and started assembling a Tronxy X5S last week, so i've been busy with other things. But again, i feel like it's been an improvement, but maybe it's just in my head. I was too eager to assemble it, instead of first doing a calibration cube with the V2 before removing it.

I can tell with confidence, that the "intake" (or however you want to call it) has been improved, since the fan opening isn't partly blocked like in previous versions.

Feedback time. :) I printed the V3 fang and installed it, but when the X axis moved at certain speeds, it induced vibrations in the stock part cooling fan, that made worse noises than the CR-10 stock fan mount, even tho i had everything as tight as i could.

The print quality was slightly improved. I printed two Benchy's. The stock CR-10S had a section on the hull that looked Frosted and the same section with the V3 fang was shiny, beside this, the two Benchy's looked exactly the same.

This for me, as a person who has to live with my printer, was not enough to justify the added noise, from the stock part cooling fan rattling.

Thanks. For me the stock box made much more noise, but i think it also has to do with the speed you set your prints to. A little bit faster or slower and the vibrations change. You have to do what's best for you. I think the main advantage of the fang over the stock solution is that it cools more evenly. But in turn, the airflow is devided and needs to travel further. So it definitely is a trade off. As such, bridging will probably be better with the stock solution, but finish will likely be better with the fang.

Hello, I've tried to print the V2 fang as well as the V3 with my CR-10S using Simplify 3D as slicer but both of them has experienced troubles since the first layers with strange and "random" polygons sliced...after that, after few layers S3D closed the air ducts with two bridges....of course I haven't printed them....could you help me understand what could be happened? Are the STl corrupted?

Apparently S3D doesn't want to print STL files that are exported by Blender. You can either use Cura, or run the STL files through netfab so that S3D can print them. A few members have attached the V2 STL in the comments below.

excellent, thanks!

I wanted to add four M3 inserts to the 40mm fan duct. But it's not possible in OpenSCAD due to some zero Face and intersect errors. Can you please fix them?

You can repair STL's using https://service.netfabb.com/service.php
Unfortunately, many STL's that have been exported by Blender, are giving other programs problems.

A few questions, if you don't mind. Which parts are prone to warping (or worse) if printed in a lower-temp material like PLA? Would there be any benefit to getting those parts printed in metal from Shapeways or the like? FInally; would you have any problem with your files being used like that?

Based on what I can see, the only part that could directly benefit would be the 40mm duct, and that could even increase the ability of the heatsink itself when running high-temp materials.

Thank you for your time~.

Well, if you would have them printed in metal for yourself, for personal use, i would not have any issue with that... but!
I don't know if it's something you should do if i were you. First of all, I'm not sure the tolerances would match with whatever professional equipment they use. You will greatly increase the weight of your gantry, meaning less accuracy at higher speeds, more ghosting artifacts in your prints etc. And maybe the most important reason to hold off at least for now... i will still release some improvements in the future.

Many people have printed this in PLA, without issues. As long as you don't print high temp filaments with it, that should be ok. If you intend to print ABS with your CR10, then you might want to consider printing the plate and 40mm duct in ABS or PETg.

Absolutely I'd only do this for my own uses, I just want to make my machine better. I make my money with my own work, not directly with the work of others~.

I'd like to print nylons and maybe even PEEK eventually (Obviously I'm upgrading to the MicroSwiss hotend as both of these materials would probably melt the stocker down). Speed is less my goal so much as printing hotter. Faster is nice, but for me, quality and material ability is always more important than speed. ABS might handle nylons... I'm not sure. But if you think an ABS shroud will handle up to PEEK (360-400c), then I'll just print one up in ABS when my i3 gets here. Otherwise, I may have to experiment with DTM printing.

Looking as the list of things I'm doing to this machine, very little Creality will be left by the end... Why do we enginerds tinker so? XD

Will there be a V2 fang for 5015 blowers too?

The 5015 is basically already "V2" since it came later. If the V3 stock fan fang is a success, i will release a 40mm and 5015 V3 fang later on probably .

Good to know, thanks!

Printed with v3 fang, air seems to meet right at the tip of the printhead...plenty of clearance. Using it on a CR10-S, printed just fine after installation.

Thanks for the feedback. Did you print V1 or V2 before to compare, or is V3 the first version you tried? Anyway, thanks again and if you have any further suggestions later on, feel free to share.

This is the first one I printed, I did not print V1 or V2 Fang. V3 has printed several prints now with no issues.

Where am I supposed to get all of these M3 screws from? I’m short 6 screws. It’s OEM so why should I have to buy more screws?

You can also use glue or melt parts together as stated in the description, or feel free to print one of the many other designs on thingiverse if you feel they fit your needs better.

Also, i think you lost some screws or counted double, because if you reused all the screws from the stock fanshroud, you should be 4 screws short and not 6. You can also use 2 or 3 screws of the 40mm fan, like i did. I only use one screw for the 40mm fan.

Thank you for these elaborate designs. I would like to use the stock radial fan and a 40x20mm hotend fan. Will the latter fit between the fangs?

I believe there are some people who have posted a "make" with such a fan.

Anybody knows if i can get a design for a dial holder that works with this part?

you could make a "bushing" to fit in the height probe attachment thing - going to do that myself when I get around to printing the fang!

my print shifted on all four pats the same layer hight. had all four parts going at once.

any clue what happen? i used cura and v2 parts

This is an issue with your printer, not with the model, i'm quite sure. Layer shifting can be caused by a number of things. Belts not tight (and skipped), stepper motor voltage problem, printing too fast...



Hello, i have a question about the bltouch mount, i would like to know on which side of the fang you mount it ?

As shown in the image, it should be mounted on the left. There is also a remix available by another user (see remix section).

Print the carriage plate standing on end with a brim... laying it flat is waste of time.. you will very likely have 99% of the fang mounted and the plate's mounting bracket will snap off and you will have to put all the stock parts back on to re print the piece you just broke.

Interesting. I had only one of the carriage plate fins break while i printed half a dozen test plates (and it was my own fault for not following my own instructions). I can imagine the print time would get reduced indeed. Did you print it in ABS, PLA, PETG?
And did you print the plate with supports (i mean when standing up)?

Well maybe that one was just bad luck not sure, but it is definitely stronger now. PLA @ .1 layer height 45mm/s it printed in 2 hours, which is long but I was at lunch with my mom. I was about to make the fins extend to the base to eliminate support but was in a rush so I did use support only under the fins, all the holes are spot on and it’s very stiff. Thanks for the files :)

Great. Thanks. If it works it works. Considering the layer lines, it makes sense that the fins won't brake off so easily when printing upright. The print itself may be a bit more tricky. Which fang did you print?

It’s all assembled and working good. I printed the v2 stock fan fang. :)

Had an issue with slicing v3 in S3D. Now printing v2 and looks brilliant :D

Did you slice it with Cura afterwards? You can also try to "repair" the file for S3D. See the updates in the description. Seems like S3D doesn't like Blender files.

I have not tried the repair option yet. I will give it a go and report back.
Not tried in cura as only use s3d

I would like to test the V3. But only with 5015 or 40x40

I understand, but i first want to see how the stock fan version pans out. If it's not an improvement, there is no reason to expand on it further. I'm currently doing some prints with this setup.

I want to use with dual 5015 radial. But i think the air outlet is to small. What do you think?

Dual 5015? Haven't made such a mount yet. As for the outlet... I'm not sure, you can blow quite a bit of air through with your mouth.

ok. I have remixed it just for me for 1 5015 radial fan. maybe i can test it at weekend and than i let you know.

Oh, cool. Í'm curious.

Finished. I test it next week. I am a beginner.I have made some mistakes in the STL and you can see that in print. But I think it will work that way.

I think the v3 blows a little bit too close to the nozzle.

It should be like in the image. You can see how the airflow should be directed below the nozzle. In theory at least :)

we have air turbulence on the nozzle. When the fan is on, the temperature goes down two to three. It catches up quickly.but it works great. I Love it.

me too. I am an absolute beginner :-D

Comments deleted.

Please guys, before i put this up in the files section, i'd like some feedback about this model because i consider it experimental. It's a completely new V3 design i made from the ground up (the previous fangs were made by someone else) for the stock radial fan (if it performs better than the old fang, i will update it for the other fans (5015 & 40mm).

Improvements i (think i've) made:

  • The fang mouth should have much better airflow, since the fan fits inside without obstruction, unlike the other design, that had the adapter fit inside the fan opening thus clogging the airflow a bit at the source. The new design should leave airflow wide open at the source.
  • The fangnozzle should cover a wider area around the hotend, this was a concern with the old design.
  • The direction of the airflow leaving the fangnozzle should be much closer to the plastic right below the hotend nozzle. See image. The old was directed much lower below the hotend nozzle, cooling too far below the top layer.
  • One negative: clearance has been slightly reduced.

Please leave feedback in response to this message. feel free to compare calibration cubes or other test prints.

PS: it sliced fine in Cura. Can't speak for other slicers.

I printed the v3 fang last night and installed it. It took a few tries to get it to print right with supports but it was worth it. I really like the look and the airflow is very much on point with this design. Really looking forward to a 40mm version. Happy to help out with more pics or testing! let me know

edit: I just wanted to come back and say I am super impressed with this fang. I just printed a few small parts and everything just went silky smooth, sorry just watched the zohan

Cool! Thanks for the feedback.

Should the EZABL mount still fit with this? I'm trying to assemble things but the EZABL mount isn't sitting flush against the V3 fang, it's being pushed out to the side some.

Sorry, i kind of forgot. No, i just checked. Maybe if you print a spacer it could still work. It's good that you brought it to my attention.

I put a spacer in and can mount it, it's a bit flexy and unstable though, and not pointed perfectly down with the weight of the sensor on it. I'm not sure how much of that is due to needing the spacer or not though, as I hadn't tried the V2 fang. I think I might have to use manual leveling with that fang for now.

Sorry man, i lost track of these things. I'll try and make some time to design a new one.

Here's a simple remix of the carriage plate integrating the EZABL mount with it to make it a bit sturdier, and work with the V3 fang.


CR-10 FANG OEM Carriage plate with integrated EZABL mount

Thanks man. I wish I had seen this a few hours ago. I just tried installing this fang and that EZABL mount failed immediately. Now since I soldered the fan in I'm using InstaMorph to try and stabilize it long enough to print this.

Good luck! I've been printing quite a bit with the V3 Fang and this carriage remix, and the integrated EZABL mount has been nice and sturdy.

Hello wich stl i need to download for cr-10s5 whithout outolevel sensor?

The stock versions.
V2 40mm duct
V2 fang
V2 carriage plate

The 5015 fang seems to work OK (haven't run it on the printer yet but it fits my fan fine and the airflow seems good in spite of missing the last 6 layers or so, not sure what happened there, haven't had a print "fall off" the bed like that before) the only thing I'd suggest is perhaps consider adding a clamping feature to, I suppose back of the fang, i.e. around the notch for the fan case clip.

Oh and for anybody's reference, I printed my fangs (all three of them, two stock (broke the fan mount on the first) one 5015) oriented with the fan inlet to the bed, no supports and a 10mm brim for adhesion, first one was sliced using Cura 3.2.1, the second and third I switched to Repetier-Host with CuraEngine as the slicer.

Hey, could you maybe make a screenshot and draw what you mean exactly with that clamping feature, because i'm not sure what exactly you mean. Thanks.

Something like the attached, basically putting a bolt through the hole will pinch the gap in the back of the fang down to grip the fan a bit better.

oh, i get it. Thanks, i'll think about it for a future revision.

My CR10-S mounts all metal MicroSwiss and BLTouch but I found a problem for the support of the BLTouch: too much dancer and not very precise in position, with the vibrations moved and then broke. For this I made a remix of the support including the BLTouch. Now it's perfect and does not move anymore. This is version 2 and is final because the first I had to adapt it with a cutter, I had not considered the bulk of the fang that protruded. You can find it here:
The material I used was the PET-G. For all directions and mounting recommendations I refer you to the link of ozfunghi: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2763931

Carriage plate for fang (ozfunghi)
CR-10 FANG OEM fan duct assembly - easy & sturdy print

All I can say is AWESOME!!! I love the fact that it uses the exsisting screws. I couldn’t get my CR-10 hot end to go above 235c and couldn’t get it to stabilize above 200. It’s a brand new printer and I thought there was something major wrong with it. After adding this Fang V2 it will reach the printers max temp of 260 and stay stable at that temp with no trouble at all! If you intend to print with anything requiring temperature above that of PLA then this is a must upgrade!

Ok, I'm confused! If I have a bone stock CR-10 (mini) , what files do I want to print?
Also, I am using Simplify 3D. Any special settings I should know about?

From the description:

"You need 4 parts for this fang model. The carriage plate, the 40mm duct, the carriage plate clip, and the actual fang."

Except for the clip, these models have been improved with a V2 version. If you are using S3D, you will need to repair the fang (reed the updates), or download a repaired file from the comments (two users already repaired the file and shared it in the comments).

Thank You! I'll fire up my printer tonight!

I've tried opening both fangs (FANG-oz-fang.stl and V2-FANG-oz-fang.stl) from 'CR-10 FANG OEM fan duct assembly - easy & sturdy print' and I'm getting an error in IdeaMaker. The other files open without issue. I don't know how to find out what's wrong with it.

Some people have had problems with other slicers than Cura. Search the comments below, two users have attached repaired stl's to their comments. Maybe those will work for you.

Would there happen to be a E3D version in our future????

Never say never, but it's not currently something i'm working on. I've considered it, but there are already many E3D solutions out there. Also, it would take more work than for instance the MicroSwiss, which has more or less the same dimensions as the stock hotend.

Hi, thanks for this awesome mod! I use the latest Prusa Slic3r Version 1.39.1 and I had trouble slicing the OEM Fang part as you can see in the picture. So I put it through Netfabb and thought you might like to update it here as well.

The V2 fang fan slot is too wide. The duct is only 8mm and it printed out at 8.8mm. Which I'm guessing its at 9mm since my printer prints a little small. Just wanted to let you know.

I checked the file, and i think you're mistaken. It's exactly 8mm, so your printer is not calibrated correctly, or something went wrong in your slicer. Please confirm.

Hey, which fang model are you talking about? Stock fan? You're the first one to mention this, and the fan mount is exactly the same as in V1, and i've printed and mounted both with the stock fan without any issues.

Hi Ozfunghi,
I print all the parts in V2 but now I would like to install a 5015 radial blower.. Do I have to reprint everything in v1?

From the description:

  • I have started with improvements. These will be labeled "V2" in the filenames. Currently there are three V2 parts uploaded. These should still be compatible with all the other (older) parts. *

So, normally no :-)

Great, thank you :)

Just received my micro-swiss hotend today, ive printed your fan assembly in the last days. Today i mounted all together. What should i say: Ive used fang mounts before, but your solution is by far the best!
Microswiss hotend, noctua 40x40x20 as Coldend Fan and a 50mm radial blower on top. Works absolutely perfect!

Thank you!

Thanks, i'm glad it's working out for you. Feel free to post a make ;-). I'm currently redesigning the actual fang nozzle. I hope i can improve the part cooling, with a better airflow angle and a better spread. The current part cooling fang design was one that i remixed from another project. Hope i can improve it.

This is my first fang print and install. It went really well and it looks nice.
I'm using stock radial fan and it rattle /vibrates during certain speed X movements. It makes so much noise. I think the vibration is traveling down and being amplified by the fang. It's a deal breaker for me.
Is anyone getting vibration from the facial fan?

I was glad to stumble into your post here because i have been trouble shooting this rattle for a long time now. Using the stock radial fan and metal housing it rattles up a storm at times and other times its quite. If you turn off the radial fan it stops so its definitely the radial fan that is the issue. I actually replaced my entire assembly and the new one makes the same noise so this is what I did to fix it on the stock parts. 1. I removed the radial fan and cut a thin piece of high temperature rubber (about the thickness of a thick rubber band)....and put some glue stick on the metal housing behind the radial fan and reinstalled the fan over the rubber. 2. I had to replaced the air blower piece under the radial fan because i had tightened the screws so tight trying to eliminate that dam rattle that was driving me crazy that the plastic was broken around the screw/bolt holes and it sat crooked (bent inward towards the fan housing). I could actually place my finger on that air flow adapter piece and the rattle would stop. these 2 things helped a lot but did not eliminate the rattle completely so i removed the metal housing from the carriage and put 2 small squares of the same rubber material between the carriage and the housing and reinstalled the 2 bolts that hold on the housing. The rattle stopped completely (so the fan is so crappy it vibrates the intire housing against the metal carriage even). I am printing this entire mod right now using ABS and I cant even hear it printing right behind me 5 feet away and I was only going to do this upgrade mod to see if it would eliminate that dam radial fan noise but now reading this I am having second thoughts because people have the same rattle with it and currently with all the other upgrades i have already done to everything else including upgrading the stock drive feed to the Macewen Flexible Filament MK8 Extruder Aluminum Drive Feed I am able to print PLA, ABS, PETG, carbon fiber, wood filament, priline flexible, and ninja flex filament with the stock CR10s hot end and all stock fans with an enclosure made out of PCV pipe for the frame covered with clear vesquine for when I print ABS, PETG, and Carbon fiber filaments. If i install this mod and the rattle comes back I will have to either go back to the stock setup or consider replacing the crappy radial fan with a better one because it is clearly a crappy original fan that a lot of people are having problems with. All this being said I hope i have provided some insight regarding the rattle issue and have 2 questions for anyone that reads this post.

  1. What are the benefits of this mod over the stock fan setup before i go through the hassle of installing it?
  2. Does it allow you to print at lower temps then you typically use with the stock fan setup? ( I am currently printing this mod using Pxmalion ABS filament at 265 hot end and 105 bed temp with stock setup and it looks to be printing perfectly and silently).
  3. Does it simply produce higher quality prints??
    Thanks you in advance for any information shared and if you have any other questions about the fan rattle or what I did to fix it feel free to ask:)

For me personally, it rattles a lot less and is much more quiet than the stock metal fanbox. Is it the radial fan or the 40mm fan? You can turn the radial fan off in the menu to check if you are doing a test print or something, to make sure which fan is making the noise.

I would agree actual can now is reduced a bit. The vibration rattle I'm having is the part cooler fan physically rattle on its "spindle". This happens whether it's spinning or not.
Here's a 5 second video of it and when I apply light pressure to it to make it stop.

I don't think it's a problem your design, I'm just curious if anyone else has this or an idea to make it stop. I may switch to a 40 mm fan.

Oh, i see. Do you think it's the inner "clock" or is it possible the entire fan is rattling a bit? Are the tiny screws nice and tight? (Not too tight or you risk breaking the plastic of the fang mount). What happens if you use tape to tighten the inner part?

It seems to be the inner spinning clock. Putting pressure on the base where they join doesn't seem to help. The entire print carriage has a slight vibration and it gets amplified by the time it reaches the top of the duct. I guess just a cheap fan.
I have some 40mm Noctua fans arriving in a couple days. I'll try those.

Did it get any better with the new fan?
I've got the V3 fang and it's doing kinda the same noise.

I have tried both 40mm and 5015 fan versions and yes, the rattle from my stock fan is gone.
I still have an issue with some sort of vibration during long fast moves. I don't really know where that is coming from but at least it's not being amplified by the poor stock fan rattling on it's spindle.

Hi ozfunghi :)
I understand why you preferred to use the OEM diameter for the fan screws but most commercial fans are supplied with larger diameter screws (like 4mm).
In addition, I would like to use the noctua fixation kit (https://noctua.at/en/products/accessories/na-sav4/service) which also use a diameter of 4mm but I am new to fusion 360 and I have trouble modifying your STL V2-FANG-oz-40mm-duct file directly ...

Thank you and sorry for my english (Google english lol)

I would just suggest you use 3mm screws with a washer for your fan.

ok, I modified your model under fusion 360 and you're right .. I must forget the addition of noctua skates. I need plane suface for optimal resultat ;-)

Thank you for all.

Hope you get it to work. Good luck!

Yes but with NF-A4x10 (https://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a4x10-flx/specification), we need another screws.. Mine (oem) are 12mm in length so with a socket, I could never screw them :-(

You mean they are too short? You can buy any size you want, they cost almost nothing. I would even recommend buying them too long, and cutting them to the size you need. Or get a pack with all sizes. I just can't put the time into modding this, when there is still a lot of work for different mods to do. Especially since this is basically a non-issue imho. People have already used those fans, see the "makes" section: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2763931/#made



CR-10 FANG OEM fan duct assembly - easy & sturdy print

I really like the modular design, way better mounting solution than the two screws holding on the hot end. I modified the Micro-Swiss fan duct because it was blocking too much airflow from the front. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2817388

Vented Fan Duct for MicroSwiss Hot End
by pfjason

I saw it :-) The remix section is expanding!

40mm fang uploaded
If any of you guys are still looking for the 40mm fang, i have finished my version of it. There are also two versions of other members in the remix section. Feel free to compare.

All fitted. Though looking at the fangs in relation to the nozzle the nozzle looks off centre. It was quite tight getting the 40mm fan duct onto the hot end.

Anyway did a test print and I’m not sure yet, will level the bed in case I’ve moved something, but a small test print I did doesn’t seem to look as good as with the stock shroud. It looks like elephant foot and layer issues.

Well, i guess it's different for everybody, but if you had better results with the stock shroud, you should switch back. The fang ensures cooling from both sides equally, which should give a more even result, but at the same time, if you're using the stock radial fan on top, the air has to travel further and is literally divided into two. So for some prints it may not be better. In this case, you could consider adding a 5015 fan (and print the 5015 model) for more airflow. You can find 5015 fans for under 5 bucks.

Also, i did not design the actual fang. Only the entire assembly concept.

What length and size screws do I need to put this together?

Standard m3 screws/nuts. Length depends on whether you want to use nuts on the screws or not. The same lenght as the screws from the 40mm fan should be good if you don't want to use nuts. If you want to use nuts or if you're using an addon (EZABL mount), you'll want to use slightly longer screws. For mounting the fang to the plate, i used 2 of my 40mm fan screws, without nuts. The 40mm fan stays in place just fiine with one or two screws holding it.

what about the screw for the clip?

Also m3. Length, same story. Clip + plate are 10mm thick. If you want to use a nut, best use something like 15mm. You can always buy screws that are too long, and cut them to size.

hello I printed this using 100% infill 1 wall on S3D with chris elkins profile. I used supports but removed them manually where they were blocking the fan duct.

result is a good print but hole where the blower feeds is almost completely blocked with stringy filament that I cant remove. whats wrong?

update: saw the updated stl. tried to print it using supports on angles above 55deg. it filled the ducts with supports. so trying to print it on a raft with no supports.

There is one file that is giving people trouble in S3D. Somebody uploaded a repaired STL in the comment section. It's for the V2 fang.
Other than that, you should just take care with supports. In Cura there are no problems and you can set supports to "only buildplate".

ok that didn't work. it ended up messing up the tips of the fang due to the model wobbling. so third attempt I found the supports from build plate only option, and it seems to have worked a treat.

it would be nice if someone could integrate the EZABL mount into the model, rather than the addon. I will print that addon next.

Would PLA be good enough material for this?

If you don't want to print high temp filaments, but use it for printing PLA, it should be good enough. My Fang is still PLA, the other parts are ABS, but my first set was completely PLA and i didn't have any issues.

Ok, I had some time to piddle tonight on Tinkercad, and threw together the V2 base with M3 cutouts and uploaded it as a remix. I reprinted my EZABL mount at 100% tonight (also had an issue like the person below with it being too weak), and attached it with the mount I made and it's got a really snug fit. I would also heavily suggest that anyone who wants to use the EZABL add on should definitely use a washer to spread out the pressure otherwise you could split the plastic.

I'm also trying to work on a pen mount like I mentioned this morning. It's on the printer now, but I am a total hack so it may never work out, but I'm going to at least try!

ozfunghi, thanks for such a modular design. I just tried printing this for my new CR-10S, but encountered some issues:

  • The V2 Fang won't slice correctly under Simplify3D or Slic3r Prusa Edition (1.38). On Simplify3D, there is some funky full infill that occurs at the throat of the fang (between the bottom of the fan mount and the Y section), which blocks all airflow. I say "funky" because there are lots of random-looking triangles for several layers in this section. On Silc3r Prusa Edition, it just doesn't slice it at all (a huge air gap in this section, very odd). Although it does slice correctly under Cura, the supports are super difficult to remove and end up scarring the top of the Fang... I haven't used Cura much (was using Slic3r PE until I finally plunked down the cash for S3D, mainly for their excellent supports), so any hints on how to configure the supports to mitigate this would be helpful.

  • The original V1 Fang slices correctly under S3D, so I printed that, along with the V2 mount/clip and V2 40mm fan bracket (for the stock hotend). Unfortunately, the V2 40mm bracket doesn't fit the V1 Fang as the top holes don't line up, is is too narrow. I'll try a V1 40mm fan bracket. I just wanted to make note of that for other makers that, although the back plates appear to be compatible between V1 and V2 versions, the 40mm fan bracket isn't.

  • I ended up breaking the EZABL holder installing it. Originally printed with 20% infill, I increased this to 100% infill and it is much stronger. All of these parts were printed with PETG.

I'm aware of the problem of the V2 fang in S3D. I'll try to export it again and test with Slic3r. The problem why it doesn't slice correctly in one, is likely the same reason why it won't slice correctly in the other. I will pick up working on the issues and new improvements this week.

The original V1 fang should be compatible with the V2 40mm duct. I had this installed for a while in this confuguration. There is a less than 0.5mm horizontal offset between the V1 and V2 (V1 wasn't lined out 100% correctly), but the difference is so minor, that i had no issues fitting them. Maybe PETg is less forgiving than PLA and ABS, i don't know, but for me, it wasn't something a little wiggling couldn't fix. If you are using a screw+nut, maybe it's better just widening the hole of either the Fang or the 40mm duct, in order to get them to fit.

I'm also aware the EZABL mount isn't perfect, i'll definitely take e look at this.

Thanks for the feedback.

PS: supports in Cura, you should set "buildplate only", so there are no supports inside the fang, around the bend. Some people have printed them without supports. I suggest to not use high speeds when trying that.

Thanks for the quick reply. I just noticed at the bottom of your summary a link to Netfabb that may fix the S3D problem. I ran the V2-Fang through that just to see. I'm not in front of my S3D computer at the moment, but asked my neighbor/friend and fellow S3D user to load it up and check. He printed the V2-Fang even with the error, and he carefully Dremmel'ed out the solid infill section simply because he liked it so much. He used PLA.

The issue I had was the top flat section on the 40mm fan duct was too wide for the inside of the fang where the single screw goes through... the screws wouldn't line up. It could be that PETG prints a little fatter perhaps.

Oh... I just got word that the Netfabb appears to have fixed the S3D problem. He's going to print it for me and check. I'd be thrilled it works, because the design is just so nice (thanks again for sharing this).

EDIT: I think I was mounting the 40mm fan on the wrong side of the Fang after looking at the pictures more... it was late after a long day at work, so entire possible I was being a idiot. I'll play with it again this evening. Thanks again.

Great. Again thanks for your comment. I do read them and take everything into account.

My neighbor is printing the Netfabb "fixed" V2 Fang, sliced in S3D, this afternoon for me (he's retired so he can do that). I'll post here if we had success!

FYI, the Netfabb 'fixed' V2 Fang sliced and printed perfectly in S3D! Thanks!

Good to know, feel free to attach it to your post, maybe it can help other people out for the time being.

Sure, no problem. Here's the fixed file for those S3D users out there. I'm guessing this also fixes Slic3r, but I haven't tested it with the fixed version.

First, I would like say, of all the Fang mods I have printed this is easily the most sturdy and the most awesome because of the modular capabilities.

I do have a few quick suggestions if you're still taking them.

First, I agree with the guy below that the ezabl mount could use some beefing up a little.

I would also put in a vote for some M3 nut indentations. I don't know that they need to go everywhere that you would screw in but in my opinion having it on the outside of the inner brackets on the mounting plate would be very handy. For example I use the ezabl and putting the screw through and trying to rely on the plastic to hold it all together isn't really realistic and to try to hold a nut in that little space with tweezers in order to put it all together is tough.

Also, given the modular design I think it would be really cool if you could integrate a way to add a pen to the left or right side of the fang. I saw this item the other day and would love to have some function like this with your mount. I would try to hack it together myself into a remix but I'm absolutely terrible with design.
CR-10 pen holder found on #Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2794560

CR-10 pen holder

I would love this design with a 5015 fan.

Is it possible you could make one ?

Just look in the file section there already is a 5015 fang.

Yeah i did see it 10 Seconds later ^^

Can i mount this design with all stock screws?

Best is to have some extra screws, but you can get by, by using 3 of the 4 40mm fan screws. The clip is not 100% necessary if you don't have enough screws. Ideally, you need 4 extra screws/Nuts.

You might want some extra short M3x10 (though reusing the stock ones might be long enough) and maybe 2-4. M3x20mm to hold the fan on. Some M3 washers also handy to stop lose screws from vibration/threading in the plastic.

Hello, I'm going to try your design today. I modified your V2 to include the top 40mm fan mount. I haven't printed yet, but will do so today.
See attached.

Lookg good to me thanks

Cool, let us know how it goes!

Works great...placed under the remix

Thanks, i'll check it out.

I've been printing with the original design for a few weeks (the original bracket + 1st version of the 5015 fang)

Most of the concept is great, but i do feel there a a few downsides the design that can easily be fixed. Luckily i found that some of the issues already have been addressed and fixed with V2, but i'll give my feedback on V1 anyway.

  • The mounting plate restricts way to much airflow. Especially with a low noise fan (potentially lower airflow) this could potentially cause problems. Luckily i dint have any real issues. V2 looks like a improvement. I will print it and see how it works, but ideally i would like to see the part between the mounting place and hotend removed.

  • I have also had some issues with lifting corners. I think this could be related to the V1 fang design that blows to much on the building plate. When turning of the fang for the first 2mm, the problem was fixed, but i dont like the way the V1 fan point to the bed instead of the nozzle. Other (older) designs on thingiverse are better at this. The have smaller duct openings that are pointed on the nozzetip. I hope the V2 fang is better.

  • Mounting the parts together could be much easier if there would be a hexagon hole that could holt a m3 nut. In its current design its not very easy to get the nuts on. And when not using nylon locking nuts the vibrations unscrew the nut. Adding hexagon holes would fix both issues.

The rest of the design is great. I love that its modular and i love that there is room for the hotend cables and even zip-tie mount.

Thanks for the feedback. The part between the mounting plate and hotend can't really be removed, unless the entire design would become much less sturdy. The right side of the carriage doesn't have any holes to fix the plate onto. There is the clip, but this is also more a "failsafe" than a real anchor point. I also think this would be overkill. The top part of the hotend, shouldn't be that hot to begin with. I also have not had any heat related issues since i started using this, not even with V1. I print PLA hot (210°) and sometimes print ABS (245°).
The fang design itself, came from the original fang model on thingiverse. How i understand it, is that the airflow should be pointed right below the nozzle, and not the nozzle itself. The plastic has to cool off as soon as it leaves the nozzle, not the nozzle itself, which would just have the same effect as removing the fang and printing at a lower temp.
Yes, i've thought about adding nutshaped indents, so far i haven't because i don't want to make the print too complex, and don't think there is a real issue the way it is. If you follow the mounting order, i think adding a nut should be quite easy, but, i'll look into it.

I haven't worked on the design for a week, i'll try to do some more work the coming week.

that looks solid ,will be possible to make the top fan with the specs of this one for 40mm fan? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2403711

CR-10 Fang with 40mm Fan
by Perfikt

I've remixed this.

I already started working on one, but haven't had time to finish it yet.

thanks ,is a must because the one i got keeps coming loose :) i would like to print it when is done

I don't know if you printed Sbilkey's remix yet or not. But there are two remixes now, and my version is also ready. Feel free to test one of them out and drop some feedback.

Welp. 1st attempt was a failure. 2 things. 1) The mounting clips on the carriage plate where the fang is supposed to attach.. broke on me TWICE. I printed at 100% infill with PETG as well. Kind of a bummer. 2) I'm assuming you need screws to mount the fang to the carriage plate. Do you state anywhere that you actually need additional screws ?

I really like the modular design, but I guess my tolerances are a bit too low for a good fit. Will try again later.

For screws, if you want to use them, and I did, you can get some M3x12 at the local hardware store. I bought 4 of them and 4 nuts to go with it. You'd need a longer one for the clip if you want to use a nut, maybe M3x14. I used screws instead of gluing it together because I wanted mine to stay tight and be able to be disassembled down the road if need be. I used PLA and it is working great. I was thinking about printing it in PETG or ABS later. I have both filaments on hand, but I think PLA would be fine, even in my enclosure when I print ABS.

In the original info, i've stated "You can use screws, or you can glue it together. Do as you see fit." It seems rather obvious that you would need screws if you want to screw it though. Personally, i've used screws from the 40mm fan, which is now only screwed in with 1 screw, but that seems to hold just fine.
As for the tolerances, for they've been snug printed with two different printers (CR10 and A8) both PLA and ABS. Maybe make sure your Z-seam isn't set for "sharpest corner" or the fins of the fang might bulge a bit at the corner, making it somewhat thicker, throwing off the tolerance. In that case you can try to file it off a bit. Though i have to say, this is the first time i've heard about this happening. Unless you mean it broke off while screwing in a screw, in which case you should follow the mounting instructions to prevent this. But from how you are describing it, it sounds like you broke them while fitting the fang, not while mounting the screws.
PS: at what layer height are you printing? I've noticed a difference in tolerances when printed at 0.3 and 0.2mm layer height. Both fitted fine, but one a bit smoother than the other (i think 0.3 was actually less tight).

Ah yes, I do see that now. Apologies. I would plan on screwing it together. I only meant that you may have suggested a screw size needed to attach the fang to the carriage plate.

It actually broke while trying to fit the fang into place to line up the holes. It was a little snug, but not too much. I'm really surprised my PETG printed at 100% did this though. I don't think its a fault of the design, but a real bummer.

Reading through the comments, and even saw your comments on this other model, I'm going to give: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2722733 a shot.


If your PETG broke, I'd wonder if the temps were too low or if the fan was on during the print. I've noticed with my PETG that it likes a temp of 245C to come out strong, and no more fan than 30%, which is only after layer 4. The design is very strong from what I can tell, and I muscled it around to see.

Yes, if the printer is off, you can jerk the fang around across the x-axis so hard that the LCD will turn on. So, it really should be tough enough, at least, once assembled.

yup, it's a better design than the others i've seen. Not modular, but still seems much sturdier than most.
As for your PETg, i've only tried PLA and ABS, both worked with 1 wall at 100% infill. I've seen other have succes with PETg as well (in the facebookgroup of the CR10). Maybe PETg doesn't do well with 100% infill? I never used it, so i don't know. Maybe try with 2 walls and 50% infill? I don't know, just spitballing.

It does good with 100%, but it's very sensitive to how it's printed. Too cool and it pulls apart and snaps, too much fan and it acts the same way. I'm still on the fence about PETG. For details, I don't think it's as good as PLA, naturally. But I am thinking about printing some things on the fang with it. Going to see how PLA works out. To be honest, I don't think the temp will bother PLA at all and I won't have to worry about it.

Well, I did print it very hot, 255C, but I had 100% cooling fan on after 1st layer. I think the brand of PETG matters quite a bit too. MakerGeeks is what I have. I will try to print another one but drop the cooling down quite a bit.

And the only reason I went with PETG in the first place was because of the higher heat resistance. I actually printed the fang in PLA, but the carriage plate and fan mount in PETG.

I'm using eSun PETG right now. I'd say the fan is what caused the problems. I've used a couple different PETG filaments, not MakerGeeks, and they didn't like 100% fan. They'd all pull apart easily with that much fan.

I love this thing - only recommendation I would offer (based on experience using this thing for 3 weeks) would be to shore up the EZABL part.
I would recommend adding a "lip" to the front and top (maybe create a indentation that matches the clip on the support part).

What I experienced is bumping the Sensor while removing a print, this caused the sensor to change alignment and change the Auto level.

Thanks for all the hard work you've done on this design!

Ohh, thank you, you are the first to give some feedback on the EZABL sensor mount. I'll keep it in mind when i start on a V2 version! Thanks again.

Has anyone gotten the clip to stay? There's no way the OEM screws keep it secure. Same goes for the other parts. Gotta say, the description here is not accurate. You definitely need some hex nuts

You can use a longer screw with a nut on the inside if you like. It stays for me, but i must say that i've noticed a difference in tolerances when printed at 0.2 or 0.3mm layer height. 0.3mm and it's tighter. Anyway, what i ended up doing for the last clip i printed, was slide some plastic in the hole before turning the screw in. I used a small part of a brim from a print.

Thanks for the design. Finally a Fang which I was able to print.
1 question though; for installing this setup in need extra, longer screws to fasten the clip and fang, right?

To be honest, i used 3 of the 4 screws from the original 40mm fan for the other pieces. My 40mm fan is now only connected with 1 screw, but it works fine. So basically... just use what you have at hand. Or you can just buy some extra's later on. Also, the clip is really more a "just in case" thing, a failsave of sorts. You can mount everything and leave the clip for the time bing. The entire structure is strong enough without the clip for most prints. I'd add it eventually, but if you're short on screws, leave the clip for the time being.

Has anyone printed this with the BLTouch?
What side is it suppose to go on?
Does it work well?
How annoying is it to remove it every time.

As you can see in the images of the BLtouch mount, it is supposed to go on the left side. I have not gotten much feedback from it, so i can't tell you if it works well or not. Why would you remove it every time? I don't understand? The BLtouch sensor retracts by its own after the leveling procedure has been done, so you can just leave it.
If you leave some feedback, i can try to improve it for a next upgrade if needed.

Comments deleted.

I just printed and mounted and tested this on my CR10S. Very impressed how it used stock parts so far in printing it seems great.

For my CR10S:

  • Used Cura
  • PLA bed 70 nozzle 205
  • infill 0%, yes 0% have been experimenting with that with success
  • support no. Tried one with support for fang, it was bad, printed great without support.
  • it was a bit confusing mounting parts but it worked.
  • I think you could mount the fang last, I ended up doing that, had to take it off to make it work and then put it on.
  • Files I used were:
    • FANG-oz-carriage-plate-clip
    • V2-FANG-oz-40mm-duct
    • V2-FANG-oz-carriage-plate
    • V2-FANG-oz-fang

Love that you can now see the nozzle and it pushes air from both sides and has upgrades that can be added on later.

Great job ozfunghi, you should be proud.

BTW what is your day job?


Thanks for sharing. If you have pics, feel free to post your make.
My dayjob... i used to be a graphic designer. But i quit doing that because i found it depressing. Now i'm a fulltime slob/dad/landlord.

I would like to know one thing,how much infill i have to use for all parts?20%?

It kind of depends on the type of infill and how many walls and top/bottom thickness you want to use. Personally, since most of these models don't have many parts that are very thick to begin with, and the difference in print time as well as material are negligable, i printed most parts at 100% infill and 1 wall thickness to make sure the infill can get into the tiny spaces. Check your slicer, see how much more time it takes for 100% infill as opposed to 20% infill, and how much more filament is needed. The difference is so small, that i just did it at 100%.

Just did the test in Cura, for the 4 parts on one print bed combined, it's:

  • 3hrs 23 minutes and 49gr of filament at 100% infill (pattern lines) with 1 wall.
  • 2hrs 52 minutes and 43gr of filament at 20% infill (pattern grid) with 3 walls.

In which case i'll go for option 1. But it's up to you. Doug used 0% infill, but he didn't mention how many walls he used. Maybe 3, maybe 4? If he used 4 walls and 0% infill, it still took (according to Cura) 2hrs 46 minutes and 43gr of filament. You see, that due to the nature of these models, the gains in time and plastic are so minor, that personally, i'd go for the more robust print.

Thanks a lot for the quick answer and for the explanation. How safe is to print everything with PLA?

If your printer isn't enclosed (for printing ABS/PETg) i don't think there is any problem with PLA. I printed the first version all in PLA and it worked fine for weeks, even when printing ABS (not enclosed) at 245°. That's the big difference with the "original" fang design, instead of the entire fang hanging onto the 40mm fanduct that gets very hot and softens, here it's completely the other way around. Even if the 40mm fanduct softens, it will stay in place because it's supported by the fang.

If you want, you could print the plate and 40mm fanduct in ABS, these are the only parts that touch the hotend and they are very easy prints as well. This is what i did for V2. My clip and fang are still PLA. You can also start out with everything in PLA, and just replace the parts that appear to be problematic after a while (if any).

5015 - any new release arouns the corner?

About to replace my fan and have a few questions:
Does the v2-parts fit to v1 parts? So i can print v2 fang amd mount it to my v1 brackets?

The 5015 version already had a few improvements over the stock V1 (like extra clearance). The only small issue seems to be that the screw holes are not 100% in the right spot, but people have made it work regardles. First new upcoming release is the 40mm fang. After that i'll take a look at the 5015 fang for better placement of those holes.

But yes, as i mentioned in the text, V2 parts are compatible with V1 parts.

Can you provide the gcode for the one without supports in the fang? My software doesn't allow me to do that

Gcode for PLA? ABS? To be printed with the CR-10, right?
This is the ¨V2 fang for the STOCK fan. Cura says 2h3m, 27gr. Layer height 0.28mm.

You are the best, God bless you

You'll still need to remove the supports for the mount internal. This shouldn't be too difficult with the blue pliers that came with the printer.
Also print time was more like 2h45m

Thanks for the great design. FYI the new V2 Fang doesn't slice correctly in Simplify3D but its fine in Cura

For my own information, why do you think S3D is having trouble and putting in full complete layers in the pipe?

I'm not a 3D designer so I apologise if the terminology is incorrect but it looked like overlapping geometry where the fan intersects with the top of the fang model. I did manage to fix it with meshmixer but the file came out at 205MB because I had to set all the options to the highest resolution so the model didn't end up with holes. Unfortunately when I printed it several parts broke such as the screw holes for the top fan and the end of the fangs. Ended up printing the radial version and swapping on a new fan.

Thanks. S3D is a pain in my ass. I also have no way to check it since i don't own the program and everything slices perfectly with Cura.

I was able to fix the v2 file with https://service.netfabb.com/service.php . It now works for me in s3d.

Thanks, i'll add that info to the page.

Hi..thank you for your work in designing this version of a fang . I finished printing it this morning and have it now installed. I think this is the best version so far and would love to see a 40/50mm part cooler fan version.
Keep up the good work..

Yes, a regular fan version would be nice. I would want 60mm part cooler fan version ;)

I'm currently working on a regular 40mm fan Fang. I'll upload it next week.

I really like the idea behind this.

Is the fang based on the high clearance design or the more standard one?

I have just uploaded a new V2 of the actual fang (for the stock fan), and it has 2mm more clearance than the first one, which was indeed based on the standard one with little clearance. The 5015 fang already had 2mm more clearance. Facebook user Manoj Kumar has tested the design, it printed well and clearance was much better for him (the earlier model came too close to his bed).

Great, thanks. I'll test it out. I've started printing the pieces in PLA, then going to try and print some in PETG (still figuring that one out), then eventually going to try and take apart my carriage and do the actual swap.

So I can use this with OEM parts? How is yours holding up after all this time?

Yes. I only have the OEM parts on my printer. I have installed the V2 plate a couple of days ago (all other parts on my pinter are still the first version), printed roughly 10 hours of ABS (245°) last night without issues. So heat shouldn't be an issue. Currently all my parts are PLA still, by the way.

Thanks for this great work, it's awesome compared to the alternatives.
On the 5015 fan mount, have you thought about rotating the fan 180deg? There is room, and that way the weight is closer to the cross-bar, rather than trying to lever everything (and the mount) away from the cross bar.
One other note on the 5010 fan part. The holes are M4 on the fan, but it prints something in-between M3 and M4 on the fang structure, So M3 is too small for decent contact, and it requires a lot of filing to get to M4 size (obviously it's super hard to drill since it's so thin).

Hey, just a heads up, Lurchi77 has made a 5015 fan fang remix, with a reversed fang like you wanted. You can find it in the remix section.

I fear the fan would be right above the bowden tube entering the hotend, and be in the way of easy access. Most other "proven" designs are also mounted the same way.

Yes, i'll look into the holes for a next update. Somebody else mentioned the placing not being entirely accurate (i have to go by other files i download from thingiverse for placement since i don't have a 5015 fan myself). For the time being, i suggest using M3 screws with a washer maybe?

Not the best pic's, but you can see there is more than enough room. I realize all the other 5015 fans are the other way round, but you have designed this "fang" mount to overcome the "short comings" of other designs, and this is clearly one. It makes it a lot neater, and put's far less stress on the mounting system.

BTW, it'd be nice if you could upload you pictures of the 5015 version as a "make"! :-)

Will do. I’ll take some better pics and upload them.

Ok, i'll thing about for a next update.

Great work and thank you for this. What are you using to design this? I would like to add a rib or fillet to the EZABL mount as the 90 degree transition between the horizontal and vertical is a weak point when I print for some reason. Fusion 360 is giving me fits with the STL and mesh to BRep isn't working.

If it's Fusion 360, could you save the file as a public share?

It's all Blender. I'm currently reworking a few models (i will label them V2) and i'll look into this for a future update. You could try printing with 1 wall and 100% infill (diagonal lines) to make it sturdy.

Printed great! however im using the 5015 fan, the holes are abit mis-aligned but worked kinda :)

I see. Well i don't have a 5015 fan myself, so i can only go by other designs on thingiverse for placement of holes and such. Could you tell me how exactly placement of the holes could be improved? Up, down, inward, outward (closer or further in relation to the fan opening? You are talking about the screw holes, right? Or do you mean the fan hole itself?

Ah i see :) abit outwards, would be awesome if u moved the holes about 1.5mm out towards the edge, you could do like a oblong hole, wouldnt hurt if the walls where a bit thicker also.

Thanks for an awesome model! im seeing nice improvements on prints since i changed from stock :)

great design, but maybe you can do another fang-version for a 40mm top-fan?

I uploaded a 40mm fang version yesterday. Feel free to try it out, or compare it to one of the 40mm fangs in the remix section by other users.

Thanks a lot, I'll had a look at it, and yours looks a lot smoother inside than others, I'll try it next week and give respond.
Wich Program did you use to design?

All is done in Blender, which can be a pain for things like this. Especially with a lot of boolean modifiers on one model.

I'll keep it in mind, Do you mean a regular fan, or a radial fan? I'm told a regular 40mm fan won't push enough air, or not more than the stock radial fan.

regular 40mm fan: https://noctua.at/de/products/fan/nf-a4x20-flx
I saw some mods with this fan. nothing heard about pressure issues

Can do 9,4 m³/h CFM at 2.26mm² H2O
The 5015 can handle higher Pressure, but at a much lower flow

at 2.0mm² and up you can use a fan for a watercooling radiator, I think you will need more pressure there since the gaps for the air are much smaller.

Thanks for the great design! :)
I've printed the first part, but have some issues with the wall (images attached) as you can see it's very thin. I used the 'repaired' stl.

I also have a new version for this part. I have not tested it myself, but the part where your wall is thin due to the indent, is not indented in my new version. If you want to test it, let me know. I'll print all the v2 models i have (also a new version of the plate for better airflow at the back) the next few days and upload them. But if you want to try it out, i can upload the files earlier.

That would be great! I can print them this weekend! I will let you know the result!

Uploaded and marked V2 in the filename.

Hello, I have printed the parts for use with the 5015 fan. Now I am assembling the parts and noticed that the fan duct for the hotend cooling ends flush against the backplate. This prevends the airflow from comming out, in my opinion. Or did I make an mistake somewhere?
regards, Rob

PS: please also let me know if the 5015 fang is working as it should or if you had any problems with your slicer.

No this is currently how it is. I've been printing at 210° and i haven't had any problems yet. However the bottom part of the hotend heatsink (the part that really gets hot) is not blocked at the back by the backplate, and should get sufficient cooling and airflow, imo. If you are worried, maybe you can cut out a piece at the top to ensure better airflow.

Still, it's a new design, i'm open to suggestions, and i'll be releasing a model v2 in a while. I've remodeled that part (40mm duct) from the ground up already, so it's easier to edit (since it's a bit of a mess editing an imported STL). There are other small things as well (some things being 0.25mm out of alignment) and... airflow for the backplate (thinking of cutting off the backplate right behind the hotend a bit higher). The actual fangs and sensor mounts should still be compatible in any case, so people who want to upgrade don't have to print the entire thing again.

Hello, the 5015 fan came in today and it fits ok in the fang. The mounting hole could be shifted a bit towards the middle of the bar( 1mm?), but as it is now, it looks ok. I will try to mount the bracket tomorrow and see if the airflow is completely free, or a bit obstructed. I will let you know.



I have had a look at the mounting bracket and what I already thought; it is blocking the airflow quite a bit. 2 of the 4 fins are blocked by the mounting bracket. I will cut away a large part of the backplate to give the air flow minmimum resistance.

in the original design, the heatsink is on the two stand-offs. lots of room behind these stand-offs.


I have uploaded the new design. It is marked "V2" in the filename.

I already have a new design ready since a couple of days. I just need to test it. If you want to test it, let me know.

Hello, I have adapted my plate the opening. You now have in version 2 a opening, but is is smaller than I have made. The reason is that the air blowing through the two upper heatsink plates can now be distributed much better. My opening is almost from bracket hinge to bracket hinge. Say about 2mm away from them. The adapterplate still is very sturdy so no problem at all.



So my official review.

The design is awesome, But with that aside.

The bridging quality is greatly reduced. I think that it simply is a fact that the stock fan cannot push the right amount of air for the chambers of the Fang.

I would love to see this with a larger fan design. Great work on the structure though. It is incredibly firm.

Currently working on a 5015 version. Hopefully the next couple of hours.

looking forward to this!

It was already uploaded when you posted your message ;)

Sweet! I will most likely be swapping to it when you do ;-) Also if it is not too much to ask, would you also provide the blend file (updated) like you did for the original? It would be greatly appreciated!

Keep up the great work, this is the best fang design yet IMHO due to the modular nature and simply how strong the design is, It is really firm and snug on the frame. You honestly would have a hard time damaging this.

It's uploaded!

I just want to say this rocks and thanks. Very nice solution. It does take a bit of fiddling to get it all to line up but it does. Much appreciated improvement on the fang.

I wanted to add that people say the fang mod achieves two things. Better visibility and better part cooling but everyone seems to miss the weight advantage. On a setup like the CR-10 weight has to make a difference and the fangs are all (as far as I can tell) a lot lighter than the standard metal, ugly black fan box. In my reckoning, the fang achieves three things, weight reduction, better cooling and better visibility.

Thanks, glad you like it. I'm not sure about the weight. The entire fang setup weighs about 45 grams, and then there is the added few screws etc, I just used a digital kitchen weight to see how much the original metal box + fence + plastic duct was, and that turns out to be 52 grams. So, with the extra screws, it's a tie. The original fang came out at 35 grams for me.

PS: i only use two screws for the 40mm fan ;)

Hmm, I did a very scientific test. I put the three parts in one hand and the original metal shroud in the other. The shroud felt quite a bit heavier. No scales and it's on now. I printed the fang at 80 percent infill, the other parts at 100. One of these days I will do an objective weight. Still a great build in my books.

Have printed it, things just don't seem to line up. Is the fan duct that sits on the cold end supposed to sit all the way down on the hot end heat block after the little black set screw? If so, then I have a huge gap between the 40 mm fan duct top hole and the hole for it on the fang. If it is supposed to sit above the set screw, then I dont line up on the holes on the side. Any advice on where the fan duct for the 40 mm fan sits? Thanks.

EDIT: found out that the old CR-10s did not have the set screw. So you will have to notch out a hole / cut at the bottom of the fan duct for this if you have a new CR-10

I had to remove that set screw. It comes out fine and goes back in fine after the fan housing is in place. It takes a bit of fiddling to see how the three fang holes line up but they do. Make sure you don't tighten any of the fang mounting screws before they are all inserted. I had to loosen my three times until I managed to have all three in, but its on and printing ATM

Could you post a picture, and did you follow the mounting order instructions?

carriage plate + clip (+screws)
fang to plate (+screws)
40mm duct on hotend (slide on)
hotend + 40mm duct to carriage (+screws) (from underneath fang)
screw 40mm duct to fang

I posted a pic in 'Makes' section.

Actually it should be sitting with the set screw in a groove that is cut out into the fan duct for the cold end. so you will have to cut a notch for it, if you are below the set screw then it will be sitting directly on the heat block, and you probably wont want that. So I just used a dremel. Also @Ozfunghi , you probably have an older model cr-10. Up until very recently, this set screw was not there. So none of the fangs are designed for it. But this set screw is an issue for the current design as all new Cr10s have it. ( As I am told in the CR-10 group on facebook ) So the "Install order instructions" are not really related to this issue at all. As it is a problem with the design and you may want to mention in the information page that if you have a brand new CR-10 that the set screw at the bottom of the cold end will need a notch cut out for it on the 40mm fan duct at the bottom.

Yes, i have the old model... bummer that they had to change that.

Mine is a CR-10s not two months old. The fan is definitely pointing at the heat break, not the block. The set screw sits just inside the fan housing, butting against the bottom of it. I can't take a photo as its printing ATM.

@adcrane yes I understand that it would be pointing at the heat break ( Cold end ) but if you are under the set screw, the bottom of the fan duct is probably very close to the "Hot end" heating block. ( That is the rectangle thing with some insulation wrapped around it just above the nozzle ) Again, if you have a set screw you should have cut out a notch for it. Look at the same place we are talking about on this other fang design and see the notch I am talking about


Your set screw should be sitting exactly (in) that notch. If it is not notched out and you have your 40mm fan duct sitting below the set screw, then it will surely eventually melt or warp from the heat of the heating block.


Apparently not. As you can see from this photo the set screw is sitting within the shroud and there is no venting to the heating block at all. All on the heat-break where its supposed to be. Would have posted this but the printer has been in use till now.

I have printed every part except te fang. Really hoping for a redesign for a 5015 blower. If not i will try to make it myself, but i'm not really good at 3D drawings. Having some troubles getting it editable in fusion 360

lol... ok, ok, i'll see if i can find the time this week.

I definitely do not login to thingiverse every morning and check to see if you've uploaded a 5015 version. :P Thanks!!

Really awesome, just one question. Whats the random sloped hole on the side of the main fan duct? Seems pointless.

This was not originally my design. I think it has and indent for cables and the hole for a ziptie maybe. I did not redesign everything, only what was needed. You mean the square 40mm duct, right?

Yea, I thought the same, must be for cables. should be an easy fix, I may do that and send you the blend file for it but honestly I am already printing it in .1 100% infill so I may just let it ride lol. Thanks for the hard work. Looks good man.

Thanks, keep me posted! Still a new design, feedback is welcome.

Another quick question. What is the small notch in the lower right back of the plate for? I am still printing but can't seem to put 2 x 2 together as to what that is there for. Not the "Clip" but the small groove cutout in it that requires some small supports during print.


EDIT: oh ok, I am guessing it is for the nut on the far end of the X if you had to go to the end of the build plate.

Clearance for a screw on the right hand side of the X axis that sticks out (the left one of two on the front of the X axis, right hand side).

Thanks for this. Nice design. Did I see somewhere on FB that someone had remixed the hotend shroud for a Micro-Swiss? Can't seem to find it.

By the way, sorry for not saying this sooner, but i uploaded a MicroSwiss duct/shroud a few weeks ago.

Oh? Didn't see that. I did see someone asking about it. At the moment there is no microswiss version (at least not from me). You could try and see if it fits. It's possible i'll add some different options along the way. People have been asking about a different blower on top, more clearance at the bottom, MicroSwiss and a few (more) sensor mounts.

Nice piece of design improvement. Thanks for the effort and sharing it. I'll give it a print in the next few days. I've had trouble with the original OEM fang coming lose over time, even with locktite.

Thanks. Feedback is appreciated.

The original 40mm duct wasn't a flimsy design. It wasn't designed to have all that weight hanging off from it to begin with. ;)
I like your rework of all the other pieces though.

Well, when i spoke of the original being flimsy, i meant in reference to the "original" CR-10 fang design i printed, which didn't do well for me.

Nice design... can you add the oem ezable sensor mount to the plate?

I added a sensor mount. You can try it out. I haven't since i don't own a sensor.

I don't have a sensor, so i can't really measure it. If there is a good reference design, and i have some spare time, i could look into it. Or i might just make a alternative carriage plate, with an extra connection point for people to design their own small addon for it.

I'd suggest adding "OEM" and other keywords to your title so it's easier for people to find when searching for it. (maybe also separate out the word "fan" by itself, etc.)

If you're trying to make it modular, maybe make the fan mount modular too? So those that prefer a 50mm blower or 40mm axial fan etc.

btw, i uploaded a 5015 fan version. Looking for feedback (as i don't have a 5015 fan myself).

First and foremost i wanted to make a better design, by making it easier to print, and much sturdier. I always try to use as much stock parts as possible. Making it modular is an added benefit, for those that want to build further on the design. Only one part is needed to be redesigned, for instance. I'll consider it for the future if i can work further on some reference files for the mount.