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Miniature Compound Bow

by DonStick3l, published

Miniature Compound Bow by DonStick3l Jan 21, 2018

Design Tools

Fusion 360 Blender

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Thing Statistics

9530Views 1262Downloads Found in Sport & Outdoors

Summary

Fully functional miniature compound bow for shooting skewers.
Consists of 18 print parts, some M3 screws and nuts and two strings (Total cost ~ 3 - 4 $).
A complete list of the parts required is attached in the files.
Comes with completely illustrated assembly instructions as well as a guide for making your own arrows.

Print Settings

Printer:

Anet A6

Rafts:

No

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

0,15 / 0,2

Infill:

10 - 15%


Notes:

Optimal print settings vary from part to part. Detailed recommendations can be found in the attached part list and instructions.

Post-Printing

Final Bow

How I Designed This

Design Process

The bow was designed in Autodesk Fusion 360 based on several existing compound bows and cams, supplemented with a huge pinch of imagination and engineering expertise.

Overview

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I made a video about this bow, included a credit for you of course ;)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xA90aD-J7NU

Great video! Thank you very much!

Echt klasse Anleitung! Aus was machst du die Miniaturpfeile? oder wo gibt es diese zu kaufen?

Danke! Die Pfeile sind alle selbstgemacht. Ich nehme normale Schaschlikspieße aus Holz. Gibts z.B. von Fackelmann (https://www.fackelmann.de/de/haushalt/show/food-more/produkte/schaschlikspiesse-30cm-holz-sbbtl/) oder oft auch noch günstigere aus 1€-Läden. Dann einfach hinten eine kleine Kerbe reingeschnitten, Heckflossen aus Tesa drangeklebt und fertig. Wenn der Spieß halbwegs gerade war fliegen die ausgezeichnet.

Sorry for this...I feel like I'm clogging up the comments with all these questions and requests...but I feel like this will help everyone because I just can't figure out the stringing method. I own 5 compound bows, so I thought it would be easy to copy their method...but none have the same cam design. I think a high resolution picture from each side of the bow so you can zoom in would make it easy to figure out the correct way. Just like the 2nd picture from the left on this Thingiverse page, but from the opposite side (side of the cam with two attachment points)...but also includes the top idler so you can see where everything goes. I've read the instructions at least 10 times...but I think just that one picture that's missing would snap everything into clarity.

No problem! I'm always happy to be able to help a dedicated maker in distress. Just added detail shots of the cam from left and right. Hope that clarifies things a little.

Thanks! In my haste to try this thing out I used cord with just a little too much diameter and it split the idler, cam, etc..when I applied the first pressure...so back to printing again :)

How did everyone print this? Are you using dual extruders with a support filament? I've never had any luck with Simplify3d's support generation.

No dual extruders here. Simply breakaway support structures. Personally I like to use Support Interfaces. Generates a solid barrier between the actual support pattern and the model's surface leaving two layer heights gap. This way the bottom of the model comes out perfect but is easy to separate from the interface (most of the time).

Can't really say anything about Simplify as I'm not willing to pay for a Slicer. But support in Cura and Slic3r works like a charm 90% of the time.

What specific part are you having trouble with?

The limbs. I figured I'd start with what appeared to be the most difficult to print first that way I don't waste a bunch of printing only to find I can't make the final piece.

The adding of supports always leaves a little gap from model before printing the support...but then it's just printing into thin air and turns to spaghetti everywhere and ruins print. I suppose if I change that gap to zero it would solve...but then I'm just adding to the model at that point. I guess I could cut away with a saw or dremel later.

By gap you mean in z-direction between the layers? Because the support generation is supposed to leave one or two layers gap (see screenshot). This way it is easier to remove later on. But as soon as the support is printed after the skipped layers it should stick to the top of the model nevertheless. When producing spaghetti, something else has to be messed up.
Lowering the gap distance to zero will most certainly give you fused model and support. And I don't expect it to be easy nor clean to remove, even by machining with a dremel.

Could you send me the print settings you have tried unsuccesfully?
The only alternative that comes to my mind is to try a different slicer. Cura and Slic3r are both free, so why not give it a shot.

Would you be willing to upload the files after exporting them from Fusion360 to Sketchup format? I understand if you don't want anyone changing your design...I'm just having no luck with several of the parts and think with just a few small mods in Sketchup I can get them printing fine.

Just converted and uploaded every individual part in Collada (.dae) as well as a Blender file with a collection of everything.

Thanks, I'll get this thing printed at some point...lol. Just a curiosity, is there a purpose besides weight, to have the wheels with "spokes"? I was getting very brittle results, and was going to make them solid...wasn't sure if there was a function the particular shape or not though.

Legitimate question. No the skeletonized structure of idler wheel and cam serves no specific purpose in this scale. Of course on a life size bow you would want to cut down on weight. Especially for moving parts as mass comes with inertia and negative impact on the performance.
On a model that small the components in question could simply be made solid. Would be much easier in fact.
I just wanted to keep as much of an original bow's look and feel as possible. And skeletonized always looks damn tactical to me!

You did well, it looks almost identical to my Diamond bow.

Believe me, I didn't want to pay $150 for software that is inferior to free ones out there. Unfortunately I purchased my Dremel Idea Builder when I knew little about 3D printing and proprietary software...and unfortunately Simplify3D was the only software I could find capable of producing the proprietary file my printer needs to print. I honestly think it's a bug with Simplify3D and specifically how it generates the support because I've watched hours of tutorials online and played with all support settings and it just never works out right.

I have had good success drawing my own supports in Google Sketchup when I design my stuff to print...but never with Simplify. I might give Meshmixer a try...or some similar software that can add support and then generate a new .stl file.

Thanks for the help...I haven't given up yet. :)

EDIT: Also the support your slicer generates looks way better than what S3D outputs. I've always wondered if designs can be uploaded to Thingiverse with supports as part of the stl file? Do you know if your slicer will generate an .stl as opposed to a gcode file?

I just started printing this bow, fairly new to 3d printing.. I was given Cura 15.1 thought it sucked. Used idea maker, even paid for Simplfy3D. Hate it, used every free one I could find. Just before starting printing this I switched to Cura 3.1. I thought printing with supports no matter the setting sucked. I almost didn't print this due to that.

Attached is a pic with Bow so far and the 4 limb pivots. the scrap is just how the limb pivots popped out of the supports. there was zero post processing with those and almost none on the other parts so far.

This is a great model and a big THANKS to DonStick3l. My strings is being made by a custom string maker. when done I will post a made it. the guys around here are big archery fanatics. have already redesigned a few files. Looking to add a bushing in the cam and idler or make a dual cam with bushings. heck this maybe the new darts!!!

Heyya. Made this last night. Works like a champ after I printed the riser like the arms. 2kg draw (if i understand correctly how to measure) (arrow drawn to full with a scale on the tip)

https://gfycat.com/RegularGrizzledAndeancat

Nice shot!
Hard to tell from the clip for sure but I think the cam might be flipped. Not a real problem, but this way arrows can't be inserted from the left as easyly.

Ah, yeah, I really couldn't work it out from the pictures..

Also where the string/s go, I've only got one in there - as you've got 2 in the instruction manual.

Do you have any videos of this thing in action?

Not yet unfortunately. I wanted this up and shared as soon as possible. I might find some time and upload a demonstration video in the near future. But trust me, this thing works almost too well! Have been testing it extensively on like every day for the past two weeks.

yes, this works very well, Im using fishing nylon and is enough powerful. Very nice design

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