cr-10 control box base plate & legs for dual 120mm fans

by tekblub Jan 21, 2018
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Has anyone tried this on a CR-10 Mini control box? Any good/bad feedback on the upgrade on the mini?. I have heard that the control box is slightly different but I don't know how true that is?

I tried it on a cr-10s control box and it didn't fit even that. So you'd better measure the 3d model and compare it.

So far this print has kicked my butt! But not your fault entirely mine!
I'm really digging this design thank you. I'm so glad you left off any text etc this way I can use it on my geeetech a30 (cr-10 clone) without any 'shame'

any particular details i could fix? i havent spent any time printing for months now fr a lack of time, but ive tried to keep up with feedback. the grill on the bottom was tricky till i got my bed to stick, but if you dont mind unprotected fans you could consider replayreb's remix without a fan grill: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2839191

CR-10 Dual 120mm Fan Amazing Bigery Case Remix

Nope I got the tray printed after some personal printing issues lol I'm doing the legs now. I had to add a thick brim because it failed on the honeycomb because of adhesion. Have you done anything with the exhaust port lately?

nope. but i have the fans in a push-pull (front in, back exhaust) and noticed a lot of the air just recycles around between them. others just have both fans pushing in or pulling out, that lets you skip the vanes entirely. I dont know how cool it keeps the controlbox though.

This can't be printed on a CR-10?

yes it can, its the only printer i have :P

For the base you need to turn off the brim, because last time i checked cura doesent account for models that get wider at the top when checking buildplate dimensions.
there is even a screenshot of all the parts fitting in one print, but i printed them seperately to be safe.

ahhhh ok; I didn't know Cura took that into account when checking for compatibility, thank you for your help!!

My control box doesn't have feets. Is there a way to attach the printer feets since I am replacing them with the squash balls and so I have those?

You mean the rubber feet that belong to the printer frame?
Sure, That should work.
You may have to make screwholes a tad bigger by editing the model, heating up the screw or with a drill.. Try it and see if they fjt as it is, if they don't I would just drill it out to the inner screw diameter.

Is there any way that you could add a version for it? The printer rubbet foot use m4 screws. :)

sorry, i havent had time for any making lately. I would just drill the hole out to 3 or 3.5mm, like i wrote.

but making the screw holes bigger would be a good practice in tinkercad. import the legs, place a 3.3mm wide cylinder hole in both feet, export it as an STL, print.

Hey guys, is there a video I can watch to see how to do the wiring?

noooo shit where were you yesterday before I printed that other guys design with the big open holes for the fans....

shit this is one is better.

luckily I can still print the legs.

sorry mate, its been here unchanged for the last 7 months, ive even still got a hand-finished v1 strapped under my controlbox. it has served me well :D

Can you share the step file? There a remix i would like to do for this. Thanks!

I cant. its made in tinkercad ( https://www.tinkercad.com/ ) and the only optopns to export it are full models, (obj / stl) or an svg of a single crossection for lasercutting.

First, great work and thanks for that.
I have V.2.0 printed sidewalls are definitely too thin that is not stable.

are they actually too thin to print ?
v1 had even thinner sidewalls and while i had some layer separation (I took the print off the bed too soon), they were easily fixed. the sides are really only to cover the fans, structurally it sits on the front and back because that is where the legs and screws are.

was trying to cut down on the amount of material, and the sides really only stabilise the bottom a little.
do you have any suggestions, does it even work for you? because it sounds like the end result is unusable, im sorry if that ism the case.

I just printed the v.2 and I will also say that the walls are too thin. They move as the nozzle goes over them making them separate as printed. The base looks great, it's just the walls that need work.

huh, thats too bad. thank you for the feedback.

Do you have any experience how thick the walls should be? I was trying to avoid infill on the base plate, but I guess theres no way around it at this point.

I will try making the walls thicker, the other pieces (front, legs, etc.) will have to me extended to fit.
To me 1mm sounded thick enough because mine printed alright with 0.5 to 1mm walls, but I already had replaced the part cooling fan at that point, so I dont know how a stock printer handles it.

I would do a 3-4 mm wall for the sides to give them the strength they need. 1mm is just too thin to have any strength. There's nothing wrong with some infill on the baseplate, it won't hurt it in any way.

I printed this and also noticed the long walls were having a little trouble, what I did was I added a 4mm wall in the middle between the fans from one wall to the other, it kinda acts like a reinforcement, walls could still be a little thicker though.

im glad you helped yourself, i havent had much spare time lately and my printer is packed up in storage for another week or two.

I used the center space for long fan wires and a small "power distribution" board.just a bunch of parallel pin headers to plug the fans into.

what perplexes me is that some people report the walls wobbling too much to print, while others mention no such problems.

Im thinking its a cooling issue, because on my original print I had some step loss and the printer literally printed an L shaped overhang off the wall. It got across half the print bed before I paused it and was still drawing that line straight out (Using a modified fang cooler & semi powerfull 40mm axial fan)

Ill try to put up a model with 1.6 mm walls (2x outer & 2x inner shell but no infill) and some "struts" for the long side.

any possible way to split the main case floor part in 2 linkable pieces? it would make it easier to print


I tried to design it in two parts initially, but any hooks/noses/ interleaving "fingers" just loved to break off because of the flat printing orientation. im currently abroad, so I dont think i will be making any modifications this week.

are you having trouble slicing this? for me it fit well once i turned off any bed adhesion (no brim/skirt). the CR-10 bed is actually bigger than 300 mm (more like 315mm, 310 usable) and i increased my bed size in cura to 305, but that shouldn't be necessary .


Can u please add the end result for us ? Is the psu cover removed ? Did u remove the other fans as well ? Thanks fot this model !

i replied to your other comment about the psu cover. by "end result" do you mean pictures of the box installed?

I would have to take it apart and find a place to put it. ill see if I get the time for that tomorrow.

It would be great if you could change the hex pattern to be a little less restrictive and the sides to be a little stronger. I have ordered some fans and will be making this one or one of the ones you remixed/inspired you. But I really like your design! well done!

Thank you for the feedback.

I've been meaning to update this. I tested ways to make the fan screws optional but wasn't happy.

Making the sides stronger is quick, I can do that tomorrow . changing the hex patterns is doable but will require some fiddling because I manually plugged vents that were outside the fan area. I'll see what I can do on Saturday.

That would be awesome, thank you!

It took some work but I just added v0.2.0

the original honeycomb shape generator didnt let me reduce the spacing any further, so i replaced it with a different one, but the new one doesent generate "half" hexes at the base. Nothing a lot of fiddling with cutouts cant fix.

untested of course, if you do print it please tell me how it goes. :D

Awesome, looks great, thank you! ill be sure to let you know when I print it, might not be for a while as the fans are coming from china!

I'm printing this now and the walls of the case part at very thin, only about 0.5 mm. I'd suggest making them a little be thicker at the bottom for strength.

True, i wanted to save Filament because of the large overall size.
Please tell me if it becomes a problem, i could make a version without slanted sides.

I found the base reasonably rigid once it finished.

My print came out nice. The side walls' layers did separate a bit because I was too rough with it after I took it off the build plate, however i don't think it will be a problem because the corners are nice and sturdy. I can just go back and weld the walls.

Has anyone tested this yet? Does this make a huge difference? I cant seem to see it really doing much since there is a massive power supply blocking everything

Also interested

I am, it has been on my (standard) cr-10 for over two weeks now.
Note that I reversed the PSU fan to pull in from the bottom, but there is a silly "warranty void" sticker on the PSU.

Kashinoda ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2568828 ) mentiones removing the psu cover (and fan) completely, I might do that in the future.

also there is some airflow around the front, which is why I tried to keep the fans as far forward/back as possible. I havent measured any temps, but checked some airflow direction with a stick of incense.

I remember that the top of the box used to be slightly warm during long prints, and is now always cool, but thats subjective and only anecdotal (i.e. unreliable) evidence.

fun fact: the power electronics in the psu are mounted to the front and read-side of the psu case, so air moving over the outside of the psu is a good thing :D

Im currently trying to make a screwless version (except for screws that come with the printer), but ill have to test different mounting systems to attach the legs and dont have the free time for that at the moment.

If you do decide to try this out (its a lot of filament and print time, i know) please share any feedback you might have. I am very interested in how this works for others.

CR10 120mm Fan mod for Control Box

Did you remove all other fans and just run with these 2 120mm fans?

I replaced the internal fans with quieter ones before i designed this, so i kept them installed.

Also I left the psu cover installed, but reversed the fan to pull in from the bottom

I think removeing the PSU conver is the only option as the air need some space to go. I'm waiting for some feedback to print this ...

so far ive kept the PSU cover on & only inverted the fan to pull in from the bottom.

I originally replaced the rear 40mm with a slower quiet fan, and mounted the internal 50mm fan with rubber "screws" because the replacement I picked was out of stock. (see attached pictures)

i remember the top of the box being noticeably warm after printing for a while, which has completely disappeared and it stays cool to the touch even on long prints.

im not sure how big the change would have been on a stock box, but I would at least keep a fan moving air over the stepper drivers on the control board.