DM SCREEN AND DICE TOWER
7 Mar 2018
Missing Dice tray STL file added back in.
14 FEB 2018 ADDED PARTS!!
At the insistance of a grandson I added a roof and it needed to be raised, so hoarding which gives an additional storage area. Fixed some minor issues with the the tower where ramps extending above the top crenellations and of the crenellations being too thin.
Talking about storage, I modified the base to extend under the dice tray to double that storage - it will now hold pens or more dice. Mainly it prevents someone from overturning the set by proessing down on the tray.
The entire system as shown used just under a 1Kg roll of grey PLA, plus some black.
The tower can be printed with or without the attachment for the screen. Printing it without provides a standalone tower that could be used by the players.
Everything can be printed without supports as the only required supports are built in. However, supports may improve a few areas like the drawer opening for the base and the arms on the dice tray. If you would prefer to use the supports generated by your slicer for the frames, separate the parts (split command in Slic3r) and delete the two support pieces. The current design does need a razor knife to remove the supports, but they leave a clean surface which is important as it is a mating surface.
The base has a top mainly for when it is separated and if used to store parts or dice in. It is a tight fit and I used a bit of superglue from the inside. This is the only part that is glued, everything else is either attached with screws and nuts, or is simply a snap fit.
When assembling the frames, notice that the sides have a small "L" and "R" near the bottom on one side. This will help you to orient the pieces so that the block lines all line up. If the pencil holders are not used, you may need to print more than one set of the "small parts" to get more end caps although you can assemble without them. I printed the wall art on colored card stock. I recommend card stock for both the inside and outside. I also used a commercial service (Staples) to print the inside pages on a color laser. That cost about $3 on card stock, $1.50 on plain paper. Laminators are cheap - Walmart sells a laminator made by Scotch brand which comes with the pockets for less than $20. That is probably less than it would cost to take the pages to Staples and I ended up with my own laminator. I laminated the pieces together and then trimmed to the paper edge which separated the parts.
Once the frames are assembled into left and right wings with the tower adapters attached, the best way to assemble them to the tower is to push them down onto the short base. Once they are in place the tower should easily will slide down between them. the adapters keep the base and tower aligned. The adapters should push on/pull off also but sliding down from the top was far easier for me.
The Dicetower Door is a small insert that blocks the opening and is held by the dice tray when raised. That allows the tower to be used for storage as well as the base with its drawer.
27 Jan 2018 - added parts Pencil stand (for players?), added pencil holder which replaces the small links with a post with a pencil holder - adds 2/3 holders and can be used to eliminate the tower if it is not wanted (not tested, but should print without supports). Also a pencil holder that will slide into the tower adapters if you sometimes want to use the tower, but not always. This last piece needs supports.
29 Jan 2018 Increased spacing on links for TowerAdapter and ExtraPencilHolder parts for ease of assembly.
========== PARTS ==============
D&D 5e DM SCREEN: There are many available. the one shown is this:
I used the top pdf version. The A4 version could be used IF you generate the files from the OpenSCAD source and comment out the current paper variable and uncomment the A4 version. You will need a print bed larger than the MK42 bed on the Original Prusa I3 MK2(s). Not this change applies to both the ScreenHolder_v5.scad file and the TowerScreenAdapter.scad file.
Square nuts: I bought these from Amazon:
The link seems to no longer take you to the correct page. Search M3 square nuts and get the M3x5.5 zinc plated nuts (cheap) or the A2 stainless steel DIN562. These are both thin and flat, most other square nuts are more rounded on the corners and are thicker.
3mm socket head screws: available from numerous vendors. Various sizes, but 20mm will do for most if not all. 4 required per screen.
White board: common galvanized sheet metal bought at Home Depot and cut with a razor knife using this instructable:
Painted with White Epoxy Appliance Paint (Rattle Can from Home Depot). This makes for a magnetic board that should work well with dry erase markers. I painted both sides, so i can reverse it if needed.