DM Screen with Dice Tower

by thsturgill Jan 25, 2018
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This is going to be my largest 3d print project. I have one question I measured all the pieces and one of them does not fit on my print bed (ender 3) how do i get it to fit? (or is it for a larger printer?) Thanks

It was designed for the Original Prusa. See the comment below

Thanks, I did read your comment about the Prusa, but one of the other comments mentioned it does fit on a Ender 3.
I did though find this
Showing the screen CAN fit an Ender 3. (https://www.thingiverse.com/make:616413)

In Cura:

Select all (because its off screen when it loads)
Move to 0, 0, 0 Its still grey and hanging off the edge.
Rotate, lay flat. This will make it lay straight across the bed, still greyed out.
Next rotate 45 deg. IT FITS!

I have 2mm of brim (max that will fit) because it had bed adhesion issues at the extreme corners.

I am using 0.08 mm layer height for detail. 205 C for stronger bonding of layers. 65C bed first layer to get better adhesion, then drop bed to 50C since long exposure to > 55C deforms the edges. (Temperatures will vary with the PLA used)

DO NOT use .1 mm layer height on Ender 3. Magic numbers are multiples of 0.04 (0.04, 0.08, 0.120....) 0.120 will print faster AND at better quality than 0.10

so once I have caught up with all my printing I am going to make a start on this! and I will post how I get on! Thanks for replying ( seeing this was the reason I bought the printer ;) )

DM Screen with Dice Tower
by FHHuber

Love the look.
Really like the dice tower.

Middle of doing the prints.

Caution, the hinge bits on the screen adapters are a little fragile.

I'm not using screws to assemble. Instead I am gluing appropriate diameter dowel in the screen frame upright at the bottom then using anther dowel at the top, decorated as a flagpole.

The dowel drops into the screen adapter's lower screw location and then line up the top end and drop in the flag. Much faster assembly and disassembly then snapping the adapters on/ff (and no load on the fragile bits in storage)

The screen border pieces do fit on an Ender 3. In Cura, to rotate, you have to turn off the snap which forces 15 deg increments of rotation. It just makes it corner to corner.

I think the dice tower's crenelations will also turn out to be a bit fragile.

To cut down on noise, I am lining the inside of the tower with felt. Its a bit of a pain to work it in place, but the difference is worth it.

Whelp! After about 100 hours, it's finally done. I had to slice the walls due to my printers limited size (and I do suck at slicing, so I had to print it twice).

Then I had to wait for the right glue to actually work. The first I got was crap, did not glue it properly. Thanks to a blogger, I found two good ones, even one that fills gaps - win!

Meanwhile the screws and plates arrived much earlier and - upon using them later - are perfect to fit everything together. :)
Same goes for the US letter size paper which I ordered via Amazon, since I'm also EU based.

Since I love printing (it almost never pauses), I had to paint the structure and improve it a bit for visual appealing. Since I've began to get props for our games and paint them ... and add more stuff to it, the wall needed to have those, too. I did not want to do it too much, though. Just a bit here and there.

Lastly, I did not like the given wall image, so I printed the ones seen on the image. It's not a perfect fit and should I get a larger printer, I will do this again and print them full page to get rid of the white.

But aside from the minimal "glitches", like minor warping (bottom) or the white on the printed walls (did not want to print and cut more paper), it's AWESOME!

I believe I used 20 or 25% infill just for more stability.

Thanks so much for this great design!


P.S.: I'm going to add the whiteboard wall later, waiting on delivery. Pen holder we do not need, but I may print the standing one :)

What are the dimensions (height and width) of each panel?

The insert is US letter sized (8.5" x 11") Overall is 1.2" larger so 9" h by 11.5" wide

I originally tried that and had complaints about it being to tall to see over. Wizards re-oriented the DM shield for that reason. It would be a complete re-code, so sorry.

Lol no problem. My DM says this one is too low. Thanks though!

would it be possible to portrait the papers instead of landscape?

Hello from Denmark:-)

Im am printing this mega awsome thing but i have a problem.
The screenholder is to big for my printer, could you possible seperate the 4 parts inte 4 seperate files?

I have triede to download Freecad and openCad to do it myself, but alas i am still a big noob when it comes to the finer nitty gritty parts of this hobby.

I made it fit an Ender 3 without editing. Just rotate in the slicer so it goes directly corner to corner on the build plate.

Great! I only have access to my Prusa and designed it to at least fit on it, knowing that people with a 200x200 bed would have trouble.

Posted a partial make to show exactly how to make the screen V5 (the hardest to fit on the bed) fit the Ender 3 without scaling or cutting it up.

I M away from home for a few more days. Open in Slic3r or whatever and split the parts, delete three and save STL (export). Repeat for other pieces. MadKiefer below said he was cutting the parts, maybe he can provide the STLs before I get home.

Hello and awesomework, might I add!
Now I'm fairly new in the 3D printing - I've printed the tower, the dice try and the draw bridges - all excellent!
But now I'm missing the sidescreens (holder for the rules, basically the walls).
Maybe I'm just blind, though :D

Nevermind, I'm stupid. Screenholder!

Good, I thought it was missing too. I am traveling and my laptop does not have enough guts to render that. It does need a large bed. It fits diagonally on a Original Prusa MK2 bed which is 210x250mm
Good Printing and Post a build if you will!

Yeah I figured. I needed to cut and shell these parts. I'll glue them together then.
Once I have the missus on good terms I'll probably upgrade to a better and larger (and hopefully more silent) 3d Printer, e.g. the MK3s
She's backed 2 great projects, alas these are resin and smaller, which is great for sculptures and miniatures of course - but I can't even put them up here as I lack a "lab" or workshop :D

omg this thing is amazing

Hi, thsturgill.

I'm loving this design, and want to print the frames only - to take advantage of the modular walls for the screen.

I'm having a heck of a time getting them to print. My printer keeps knocking the thin frame walls off the bed within the first few layers.

Did you print these with any type of brim or raft?

With brim

In Cura slicer, lay flat, rotate around the Z axis to fit on the bed. (it likes to rotate things so they don't fit) then move down 0.02 to "squish" the first layer.

If your bed will stick to your PLA for any other print, it will stay in place.

I do this for anything that is having issues sticking to the bed.

Even with "Z hop on retraction", it tends to knock the tabs off the adapters for the dice tower and tower eliminator.
Print the small parts. You can shave off the failed tabs and glue new ones on.

I have 25% of my screen's connection tabs glued on. Its not worth trying to reprint the whole piece due to knocking the tab off, since it has a good chance of knocking it off again.

I used Gorilla white foaming polyurethane glue (quick dry version of the foaming polyurethane) with the pieces held in place using common tape (any tape you want) as the glue cured. Gently shave off any excess glue that foams out ONLY AFTER FULLY CURED.

I use a brim on occassion, have never needed a raft for anything. My printer (Original Prusa MK2s) has a PEI sheet on the bed, and as long as it is kept clean, everything sticks really well. I believe I probably did print those with a brim.

Hello, first of all very nice design.
I have a little issue here, I tried with openSCAD to modify the ScreenHolder_v5 file like you explained in order to use it with A4 paper.
But after I changed the commented paper type and regenarate the scad file the left part is floating in the air.
I'm quite new here and don't really know how to lower it.

Thanks in advance for your help and sorry if I made mistakes, it's not my mother tongue :)

I have not found the reason my calculation was off yet, but find the lines:

// Right side
translate([paper[0]-18,-20,-paper[1]-55.5]) rotate([0,270,0])
intersection() {
translate([paper[0]-7.5,-6,10]) cube([21,12,disp[1]+3]);
} and change the translation so that it reads:

// Right side
translate([paper[0]-18,-20,-paper[1]-79.6]) rotate([0,270,0])
^^^^ change this !!
intersection() {
translate([paper[0]-7.5,-6,10]) cube([21,12,disp[1]+3]);

hope that helps

That's IT.

Many thanks it's perfect now.

Can't wait to see the final result.

Hey, can u share with me the A4 .stl files? that would be great help!

I had not tried the A4 design (I'm in the US), so let me look at it and get back to you. As an alternative, you can load the STL in Cura and it has a feature to set it down on the bed. If you do not want to learn Cura, you can export the stl once it is setting properly and slice it in whatever slicer you wish to use.

What layer height and infill did you print the tower and all the parts at?

.2mm with a 0.4mm nozzle. Infill is not as important as perimeters, so I tend to bump them up to 3. Look at the views when you slice and you should be able to make tower walls solid by playing with perimeters.

Can i put magnet to snap the wall together, i've made a home made screen and i've hot glued small magnet along the edge and it stays in place. Is there an easy way to do that with your wall ? Great design by the way !!

Not easily, but pockets could be created for them in the code and new STLs generated. The round magnets I have would not work though - they repel if placed side by side.

Better fast assembly/disassembly (No change to the STL files!)

Use pieces of dowel instead of screws.

Assemble a screen frame on heavy card stock (I found card stock that is a friction fit). Bottom holes, glue dowels in and cut them off to just not hit the tabletop.

Top gets pieces of dowel that just drop in. I made little flags that decorate the screen system.

I found long, heavy toothpicks that are slightly loose that I am using for the dowels. Nice detail cut into the top of the toothpicks that is ideal for flagstaffs. I am gluing the short bits in the bottom holes using gorilla fast setting foaming glue. APPLY CAREFULLY you d not want excess to foam ut and glue the frame together.

The flags being pulled, the screen falls apart. But while the flags are installed it stays together.

Simplest solution you could ask for.

You can go ahead and use screws on one side of the small parts joiners and the dowel method on the other end of the same small jiner to prevent putting the flags that close together.

I'm going to be using a dice tower and a tower eliminator with one pen holder for a 3 section screen. Still printing the 3rd screen frame, then I have to work on the inset panels before I post the full make's pictures.

The single frame (completed so far) , dice tower and tower eliminator go together in seconds and come apart faster.

ok i'll try to make a side with magnet and a side with some kind of metal band... i'll let you know if i succeed :)

See my other post this subject.

Just curious, would this work without the Dice tower? Can you just make 4 walls, attach them, and have it still fold flat or does it have to come down in 2 separate pieces? Also, is the standard .stls for 8.5 x 11 or A4? I'm not that great at analyzing how things work... Sorry.

The standard STL are for US Letter (8.5"x11.5"). There are comments in the Open Scad source to change to A4, but the "block wall" pdf is still only in US Letter. Yes, you can remove the tower in which case you do not print the tower adapter pieces but use two of the small links or the pencil holder pieces to connect each pair of frames.

Edit: one of the pencill holders is designed to go in the place of the tower if you want to sometimes use the tower, but not always or think you might want to add it later and don't want to have to completely re-assemble.

this is like a super deluxe game screen I love how modular it is I saw a wyrmwood video about an awesome game screen made out of wood but this is almost as good and I can't wait to start printing thank you for all your hard work just in case you want to see the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6iPXNnqq1LY

Have you priced theirs? $$$$

A little confusing, but I have it printing. 50+ hours, and I should have it done to post for ya! Thanks for all the files.

Your Amazon link doesn't work anymore. Do you have a picture so I know what to look for?

I put in a new link, but it still does not resolve correctly. I put a note there to search for M3 square nuts and get the zinc ones that are square and flat or the A2 stainless DIN562 nuts (more expensive). Some of the nuts available have rounded corners and are thicker and may not work. Please post a "made it" picture when assembled.

Hi, i cant find the black 2 pieces that you show on the images and that are atttached to the tower, are this pieces in stl too? They aren't in the files i guess.

Nice work!!

Sorry, it is missing, The scad file is there and openscad is easy to install. That part is called "dice tray". Unfortunately i am away from home for awhile but i can download the scad file and redo the stl later today.

So i can build the stl file with openscad? Is ok then dont worry, i will do it, thank you!

Nice work! Do you have the .stl files? And some tutorial about how many parts shall print and assemble to make a complete DM Screen?


The STL files are all there as are the SCAD (Design) files. Three or four sets of the SCREENHOLDER parts depending on whether you make the whiteboard. As a test, I bought a cheap (<$2) paper sized whiteboard from Walmart. The metal was about the thickness of a soda can, but after tearing it apart, I laminated it to a piece of fiberboard and it seems to work well. The metal sheet was smaller than a sheet of paper, but larger than the exposed area in the screen.

You need one each of the Tower, Tower base, and BaseDrawer, and two dice trays, and two adapter pieces to attach the walls to the tower and base.

Optional parts include the Extra pen holders (2) which go between the screen holders. The are three models with one, two, or three pen holders. I think the two is best but that depends on you. These pieces act as links to hold the frames together. If you do not use them, there are separate links in the "small parts collection". An additional optional part is a pen holder that attaches at the outside edge. The STL prints a mirrored set. The "hoarding" and roof are also optional and generally for display and extra storage. The roof could be used as a dice cup for the players. I include a PDF which is simply the design I printed for the outside. I printed on grey cardstock to simulate the grey stone.

An additional optional piece (2) is the tower door which can block the opening when the tray is raised so that the tower can store loose dice.
The DM screen itself is not my design, I gave a link to the one I used. On my latest copy, I trimmed the printed pages half way to the edge of the printing then laminated inside and outside together and trimmed to paper size. That left the sides attached to each other and made assembly a bit easier.

You will need 4 M3 square nuts and screws for each frame. 16-20mm lengths work.

Oh, one more option. If you do not want the tower attached to the screen, there is a separate "standalone" tower which does not have the ribs. You can print one additional pencil holder and not print the tower base, base drawer, and 2 adapters. Or print the standard tower to keep the option of later inserting it without having to reprint.