Stronger E-idler for printrbot

by swordfishBob, published

Stronger E-idler for printrbot by swordfishBob Aug 1, 2012
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Like a few other people, I cracked the end off my idler during some aggressive construction. The original design carries a fair bit of force through a narrow section with tension between layers - the weakest dimension in a 3D print. So, here's a design that's a bit stronger where it pivots.


  1. Drill out the hole for the pivot bolt in the main extruder piece. Make sure the bolt moves freely within it. If things don't seem well aligned when you continue assembly, perhaps loosen this hole a bit further.

  2. Clean out the slotted holes where the tension screws go, to ensure free movement there too.

  3. Insert the idler bearing with its pin.

Bolt front-to-back with lock nuts

  1. Clean out the idler's pivot holes so bolt moves freely.
  2. Expand the counter-sink hole in E-idler sufficiently for the head of the pivot bolt; this will keep the head out of the way of the big extruder gear.
  3. Attach idler to main extruder body, with bolt. Add 2x lock nuts; tighten these against each other, but not against the plastic.

Bolt back-to-front

  1. Optional - clean recessed hole and insert a hex nut.
  2. Attach idler to main extruder body, with bolt head at rear of extruder.

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Could you make the same for the accesible idler?... that would be great


Greg's Wade reloaded - Guidler, Tilt Screws, Fishbone Gears

That would best be done by someone who uses openscad, and who has or is building a "Greg's Wade reloaded" extruder. It looks like that design has more room for bulking up around the pivot. You could suggest this change on the http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18379 page.

Greg's Wade reloaded - Guidler, Tilt Screws, Fishbone Gears