Adjustable CR-10 Z endstop (Lowrider remix)

by rawlogic Feb 3, 2018
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would this work for a cr-10s5?

Great design! I upgraded my Ender 3 to a direct drive Titan Aero extruder, and this allowed me to lower the bed enough to work with the stock bed.

I'm not sure if I did something wrong in my print, but the switch is completely missed by both X motor brackets (meaning switch mounted at front as well as at rear). The print can't work as your photo displays because the only side of this mount the switch screws make contact with has the switch pointed in the opposite direction from your photo.
Should I just re-print it in reverse of the standard STL layout?

Ignore the above. I removed the factory bolts and used M2 bolts and washers on the smaller hole back side. Then to ensure things didn't move or break loose, I added another 2 washers and a pair of nuts to the end of the 2, M2 bolts. Now everything fits and works just fine!

Did your print come out like the photo and are the threads in the right direction? If not, you may have mirrored the model in your slicer or one of your motor connectors is on backwards.

I fixed my post moments before you responded. Thank you.

Definitely a good work, but I found out 2 flaws with the design that should be fixed.
First of all, putting it all the way down like in the image, it won't hit the Z endstop because it will hit the back motor supports before. Take a look here, it happens before engaging the endstop: https://i.imgur.com/ZO2aATi.jpg
Second, the 2 horizontal rectangular holes are too much down, they should be raised a bit because otherwise the soldering endstop contacts will touch the wall and the endstop board won't be flush with your model face, which could also lead to bent pins. It is easy to notice the stock endstop support has the holes raised more than your design: https://i.imgur.com/2aXp0ca.jpg
Thanks for your design and I hope you will hear those adjustment requests, good work!

I updated the model. Thanks again for the input.

Thank you for the fast fix!

Not every build is the same. Due to tolerances, some people have more room. Also, you may want to make sure that the bracket over the motor is pushed all the way down and the Z motor is bottomed out completely against the frame and that your gantry is level. Besides that, some people like myself have custom motor brackets, so we have a few more millimeters that we can go down.

I will definitely modify the holes for the solder points. Mine are squarely in the middle of the holes, but there's no harm in widening the hole a bit to account for variances.

The motor bracket that I'm talking about is the one circled red in the attached photo. Try loosening the bolts then push it all the way down (hard), then retighten. Before you do this, put the gantry as low as you can and still have room to work, to make sure it says aligned.

Thank you for the feedback.

Comments deleted.

After I highly modified my bed supports to linear rods I needed this.
This worked great.

I have a question, what is the benefit of settling the Z stubborn ?

for the nozzle not going to hit the glass before endstop