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Original Prusa MK3 - Zaribo Edition - Raspberry Pi 3 and Raspberry Pi Zero Einsy Rambo Box

by murathanaraz Feb 7, 2018
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can someone add Bear Frame holders for me? I would love to have this case on my fullBear...

That would be awesome!

Has the MK3 non-Zaribo model been successful mounted? It seems that the holes with the square nuts are in the wrong place. The bottom extrusion pushes on the Raspberry enclosure if you use the screw holes from the original enclosure. Can not secure it to the Prusa MK3 frame.

Sorry for ultra late reply. What happened with the original frame? I was unable to follow Thingiverse for while

FYI, the Pi doesn't need external power and can be powered entirely off the Einsy Rambo. The LM25011MY 5V regulator can supply up to 2 amps, the Pi 3b draws 500mA at full load and AFAIK only the PINDA probe uses 5V.

The display backlight and fans run off of the 5V, too.


can somebody explain me which pins of the Raspberry 3 I have to connect to where on the Eimsy Board? Thanks in advance...

See the last picture for pinout....

Thanks. I have seen this but thats only the Raspi side. What about the connection on the Eimsy Board?

It is same with raspberry pi zero. Search internet for einsy board raspberry pi zero pinout

Thank you. I got it.

Hello Murat,

Can you please share the STEP file for this?


Hello Madhu, did you check github Zaribo?

Murat, I did. This particular version isnt there on Github. The one there doesnt have the mount for the Raspberry Pi. In fact, on the Zaribo blog, there is a link with this case's picture... but, it doesnt take you to the Step file. :)

Ok I will send it via email. Can you email me about this request?


Would it be possible to add 1 or 2 5015 blower with 2 air ducts for RPI3 & one for Einsy. would really like 2x 5015 in here with air ducts..

the print came out perfect, made in peach :P, waiting for orange to get here. Thank you very much for sharing this, its a great model, Hats off to you sir !!!!

Cheers m8

Your welcome! Enjoy!

those are very noisy, why would you want that much noise on a printer like MK3 which is dead silent

Schuld I Print the case with supports for the protruding cable guides?

Is it me or is the pi portion of the MK3_Body.stl and the Zaribo_Body.stl missing?

Hello, the pi portion is still missing on both stl files :(

EDIT: Ok now. The files are correct when you download individually but wrong when you download the zip file with all models

Did you print it with PETG? Or just plain PLA...

I am trying the body.stl file for a normal Prusa i3 MK3 frame. Not for T-slot profiles. However: the model you have, with the screw holes seem to want to use nuts. The Prusa frame has mounting holes that are threaded, so bolts go right in them, without needing nuts in the box. Is this design not to be mounted in the normal way? With just bolts?

PetG or ABS, PLA may melt...
Yes you will mount it normal way. Screw M3 a bit out from back and align the square nuts and keep on screwing they will catch the nuts and stay put.

Need to try indeed whether or not it fits. Now I have the box in my hands, I can see it is quite different from the Prusa box. The Einsy sits on the other side, the door is no more, instead a cover you attach (on the other side then where the Prusa "door" is) with 4 screws and square nuts. This means the wires "exit" in an other manner from the box. There is a hole towards the metal of the frame that is not clear to me, possibly this is a needed function for mounting with a T slot nut, but for the Prusa frame I am not sure, maybe it is just for snapping the cover into place?

I would print it next time with supports, for the cable exit-guides. Also I will "move the step-down a bit "down" compared to what I posted for the design and in my .stl below.

Also obviously the Raspberry blocks a substantial amount of space for the cables going down, coming out of the bottom of the box. I wonder if anyone has tried it on an original Prusa i3 MK3. I need to check whether this will e.g. still work with the foreseen MMU, which I have now installed on my MK2S and is waiting for an upgrade. The clearance on the top looks sufficient. The attachment to the i3 MK3 frame needs rework. I want to use the screws like for the MK3 now into the threads of the frame: NOT with nuts in the box. For this I will for now need to drill some holes in the current enclosure on the inside, as there is no way to access the screws otherwise.

So.... will know more when I dismantle the electronics and "try to fit it". In the mean time: has anyone done this design already on an original Prusa i3 MK3? Maybe I miss something on how this is supposed to work?

you can still screw them with the nuts. just screw m3's a bit out from the back and align the box and catch the square nuts while screwing from front.

there is room behind raspberry for the cables. stock chasis cable management zip ties ends there. so it shouldnt be a problem.

I see, thanks for the feedback murathanax. I can see this work, still if I can find a way to screw from the inside (without nuts), I prefer that. So I'll experiment a bit with it ;-) probably only print the definitive box in PETG from a further tuned model, from this (now in PLA) "half assembled" box. Will keep you posted obviously.

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Can i get the solid model for this, i am trying to keep an up to date model of my printer

Hi, Did you do a version of this to fit on a standard Mk2S with the mini rambo and RPi 3.

this will fit rambo mini as well. not sure but the size should be same.

I'd love to see a photo showing the wire routing whenever someone has wires routed to take a photo of. :-)

Wires for Raspberry Pi 3 Pinout has been added. You should make your own cable though.

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Thank you for the pinout picture. I did some search before actually, and found that it is the same picture in here:

Read from the note, it is said that the Einsy board only can power the Pi, but not supply enough to power additional peripherals like a USB camera. So, could I request that the "Rasp_Cover" design has a hole for the microUSB to power the Pi3 ?


Raspberry Cover has been updated.

very good feedback thank you, is it possible to connect both the rasp adapter and internal USB? Do we have to unplug some of the pins?

I am also interessted to know. Should I leave the 5V Pin disconnected from the Eimsy Board or just connect both?

I meant the wire management for the EINSY.

Not that I can't figure out where to shove stuff, more that a picture of some wire management porn would be a good addition to the Thing


Thanks. I'll give it a try :D

Great ! Thank you for sharing.

Any info how we connect the Raspberry Pi 3 to the Einsy Rambo using the pin available instead of USB port ? Are they the same pins as we connect it to Pi Zero ?

I have made a diagram, not built yet, so murathanaraz, let me know if this is what you have...

I am tempted to use a step down convertor to power the raspberry Pi 3, then converting from 24V to 5V should not use the step down convertor from the Einsy board itself, anyone figured out a nice point to tap off the +24V? Could get it straight from the input screws but are there also pins on the Einsy board to get it from?

In the wiring the only pin NOT connected to the header would therefore be the +5V, the corresponding pin would NOT be used on MK3 header, but the raspberry Pi would get its 5V from a step down convertor, like in the diagram I atttached.

I willl use a 5V 5A one, but probably is 3A is sufficient, will remix the box, to have it attached to the box as well, mounted with its three screws.

This is the step down convertor I have selected:


IF.... at one time Prusa supports powering off the raspberry pi properly with a power failure and saving the last position while printing through octoprint, the capacitors on this board will keep the raspi up long enough I trust, if not... A large enough capacitor must be added, with a diode on the 24V input......, the step down convertor will then keep the 5V (while the capacitor discharges slow enough)

wow.... that's a long time ago I was working on that ;-) I looked into the schematic, indeed on sheet 5 it shows a 12V pin, which then probably is meant to indicate the 24V from the MK3 PSU. On the other hand: getting the supply voltage from there is probably less convenient as from the the power wires / connector itself, as you cannot feed it into the Raspberry anyhow, but it has to go through your step-down converter (and then the 5V into the raspberry). I think the current design has the mounting points in them for a step-down converter where I had drawn them, near to the power cables anyhow.

So.... people can choose: from the PSU cables / connector -or- from this pin 1 on the J19 header, as you indicated.

Thanks for the feedback ;-)


if you send me the specs of the convertor i can add it in to the box... and a wago connector power distribution...

Do you suggest a better position? Parallel (behind) the Pi3 perhaps? The board is 45mmx31mm and 16mm in "height".

I am printing it now...modified your STL and added holes for nuts and support for the print. Not sure if it is in the way of wires in this manner, thought I'd try with PLA if it sort-of-fits... It needs three holes, in a "T" shape, the two holes are 23.4mm apart and the height of the T is 36mm, I made the PCB rests "lower" than the Einsy board, as to maximize space for the power cables to the Einsy etc. I made recess under the board, where the solderpads will fit in. See the .stl attached.

In this manner the step down convertor is on the same side as the Einsy board. Perpendicular to the PI3

it looks like it is on the way of the power cables but lets see it on the run. Please share when you installed. And also how do you want to wire power to Raspberry? Is there any option the power it through USB GPIO?

As for the box fitting see my comment above.

As for the circuit: my scheme shows how I intend power it. It is powered from the pins: pin 4 and pin 6 are for +5V and ground respectively.

This worked OK for me with the Pi zero, so the Pi 3 will also be fine, provided you stabilize the +5V you provide, connect all the grounds together and provide enough stabilized power. The step down converter is OK for that according its spec.

The header pins are rated for maximum of 3A. If you plan to power a lot from the USB bus, like camera's with LEDS etc, consider attaching TWO +5V cables, to both pin 2 AND pin 4. The same for ground, you can use pin 6 and additionally pin 9 or pin 14. NOTE, all these additional pins are not checked to work for the Einsy board, you cannot rely on using Einsy equivalent pin 9 or pin 14 for ground without further checking!!!! (Consider this not working without explicitly checking the Einsy board! The pins are only relevant for the Pi3/Pi Zero W, they are documented for the Pi3/Pi Zero W!)

The other pins on the header will then be for the UART0 (TX pin 8, RX pin 10) and GPIO 22 (pin 15) and GPIO 23 (pin 16) they do match the Einsy board, in fact I have printed this box from a Pi zero wifi attached to these pins.

I do not intend to power through USB.

What cover did you use with your box? The lid from this thing doesn't fit.

Edit: The .step-files from github has the version which fits.

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It's Great. If we can put that step down inside the box, then we will have one box to serve them all

your welcome. i will share the pinout soon. it is quite straight forward...