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JD2005

CR 10 Y Axis Linear Rail Bracket

by JD2005 Feb 13, 2018
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The 500mm MGN12 rails I bought from amazon won't mount to the 2020 frame. The holes in the rail don't reach far enough to screw in to the slots on the 2020.

i will make this but i will only use 2 carriages, the way this will work is that i will make a better bed bracket, but u will need to screw holes into the metal bracket...

Hello, does this still work without problems? I want to install my rails but i am worried that the rails are not support at the bottom. How is your experience so far?

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Does this work as is for the Tevo Tornado or does it need to be modified?

Is it just me, or are the square depressions that are in place to stop any shifting of the guides because of loose screws, on the wrong side???
The guides mount on the bottom, which has the long indentation to make room for the aluminum extrusion.
The Y carriage mounts onto the flat side of this adapter, which is the top ......correct??

The square depressions are meant to allow the screw heads to be sunk down and flush with the top of the bracket, not for the rail blocks.

I assumed they were for the linear guides because they are exactly the same size as the specs provided in your link for the guides.
And it's a great idea to add them, so that the guides never move.
Anyway.....
I enlarged the depressions so the guides would fit in a printed part, then switched them to the other side. I countersunk all the screw holes, so now an M3x10 screw (I have too many) will be perfect for mounting, and if any screw does loosen, the guide won't shift.

Thanks a ton for all the work you did on this fantastic idea!!
My apologies for the assumption, due to the specs provided by the seller of the guides.
Here are my changes if anyone is interested.
P.S. This still has to be tested. I am printing it tomorrow, and will report back then

Awesome! Ya no problem, I was sick of getting flat spots on the wheels, so decided to do something about it. Glad that people are taking the design and improving upon it. Enjoy!

Besides the flat spots on my wheels, I was also getting a build-up of black rubber shavings when I looked under my bed.
A 3D printer shouldn't provide free rubber shavings, even if they are free.
And I really am not a fan of using wheels to move the axis's around, I think all 3D printers should use linear rails and guides.
It's just better all the way around in my opinion, and they are pretty cheap when you use the clones from "CNA Mechanical Parts Store" on AliExpress, they sell the best ones. When you get them, just take out the installed bearings (they come with G25's), and replace them with some (2.381mm) 3/32'' G10 bearings. They slide better and quieter than you could wish for!!
I'm building my AM8 with these installed and they are awesome !!
(I'll put the links below).

But I'm actually going to be using this on my Tevo Tornado.
You see.....I busted the Tornado's glass printing surface before I even printed my first part !! I contacted Tevo and they wanted $80 Cdn for a new one, so I started looking into alternatives. I tried a few without any happy results, then decided to go with a piece of MIC6 cast aluminum to print on. It was amazingly flat to print on, but.....it was too big and heavy for the printer (310mmx370mm), which caused unfixable ghosting.
I am now going to take it off, and have it cut down to 220mmx220mm for my Anet A8, that I am currently upgrading to an AM8 with MGN12 linear rails and guides.

For the Tevo Tornado, I have ordered a new CR-10 Y Carriage, a CR-10 heated bed, and an ANYCUBIC Ultrabase to print on, which should get here in about a week. (And I think the only way I could have done all this, is with your bed adapter here, so thank you very much !!)

I will be upgrading the whole Tevo Tornado to linear rails in the near future.

Anyway, to make a long story short, maybe I will finally be happy about buying a Tevo Tornado (instead of a CR-10, just because it was a little bit cheaper).

Here are the links if anyone is interested.

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Linear-Guide/1452393_259123965.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.465138f318KyIG

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1000pcs-2-381mm-3-32-G10-Hardened-Precision-Chromium-Chrome-Steel-Balls-AISI-52100/32756456821.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.7fa12e0eIVf5Q3

MGN12 rails won't work on a CR10S y axis without additional modifications.

MGN12 rail ⌀3.5mm mounting hole spacing is 25mm. Center points of the 2020 slots are 480mm apart.

480/25=19.2
19.2 * 25 = 5mm

One end is going to be 5mm off, which is exactly what someone mentioned in an earlier message, and I missed it.

Hole spacing for MGN9 is 20mm, and MGN15 is 40mm, so those should work fine, but I need to track down a reliable source of them in the US now or try to reattach those godawful wheels.

I suggest you measure, then buy longer than you need if you are unsure. You can always cut off an end with a Dremel (slow) or a cut off wheel/grinder.

I made these modifications on my CR10S and so far like the results. I modified the mounting a little by adding edge guides for the linear bearings to keep them in place. I found that my original print without the guides allowed the bearings to shift a little if the hold down screws became loose with time. I also reduced the overall height by 4mm to keep the y drive belt horizonal and in line with the drive and idler pulleys. One addition to the design is that I added end stops to trip the y home limit switch. I am using 3 bearings for my application, 2 on one side and one on the other which seems to work fine. I found too much movement side to side with I used just 2 bearings in the middle after the screws loosened a little. See the attached photo. I also added a rail and bearing to the X axis for the extruder. This seems to work fine. See that attached photo. It is mounted to the 2020 extrusion with 2 1/8" think aluminum plates. There is a 1/4" thick aluminum plate between the linear bearing and the original extruder head. I am using 15mm linear guides and the H (extended) bearings for all slides. I added a 3/4 x 1/2 x 1/16" thick aluminum angle on top of the X axis 2020 extrusion (full width) directly under the linear bearing to keep any oil from dripping onto the build plate. The angle just rests there and is easily removed. A trough is machined into the angle to collect any oil.

Nice rails dude... IM trying to do a rail upgrade now, and I need dimensions for the CR-10 S4 ... The S5 needs 750mm rails, the 10S is 500 .. Im not sure what I need for the S4 .. 625mm would be in between those two but Im not sure thats an option. I hate my Y axis rails though and want out of this hell of bed leveling every single gd print! :)

Dear Harry,

soon I'll try this upgrade on my CR10S. Can you share your experience/build log? I am very interested also in the X (and Z) axis, I have planned to mount mng12 rails on all axis, but I'll start with the Y one that seems to be most easy axis to be modified.

Thanks anyway.

I suggest you go with the M15 vs the M12, I think you will find the extra strength worthwhile for the extra costs, it is only a few $$. The first one I made for the Y axis was from the original listing. I found that 2 bearings was not adequate. Also, I found the pad moved with relationship to the bearings due to the bearing mounting screws loosening up. Hard to get a solid bite with 1mm wall thickness. I changed to 2mm skin and stayed at 30% fill which is working so far. Also, added the groves to control side to side movement of the bearings if the screws got loose, which I think they will over time and they can not be tightened without removing the bed plate. I also raised the bearings 4 mm from the original design so that the Y belt remained horizontal. Original design had the belt raised above the drive and idler pulleys. I also added stops for the Y home limit switch. My stl file is attached. Remember, this is for 15mm H bearings. I have also attached my Fusion 360 file if you want it. Y axis is straight forward, just measure original design. I will add a PDF drawing of the mounting plates and spacer, but some extra drilling is required on the spacer to get around the Extruder mounting hole that protrudes into the 1/4" spacer. I bought a stock length 500mm rails for the Y axis and 400mm rails for the X. I had to drill out the Y axis mounting holes a little since the CR10S 2020 slot spacing was a little more than the 480mm hole to hole spacing on the guides. Not a big deal. Hope that helps, Harry

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I was thinking of the same mod as bearings of bed wheels started to go bad. But because it was getting worse quickly, I decided to go with 8mm linear shaft, as it is locally available and costs way less.

Yeah the wheels were terrible. Any kind of minor force on the bed and the bed is no longer level.

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Would this work on a CR 10 S5?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uIbRfzLEv5c

I was looking for the S4 version.. :*( can't find it yet... as far as length...

500mm rails aren't long enough to be fixed at both ends of the chassis with t-nuts... so you have to use only 2 t-nuts instead of 4..so the plate become absolutely unstable... installed and immediately uninstalled after the first awful print....

Then either something has changed that I'm not aware of or you're doing something wrong. Mine affix at both ends with t nuts. I'm not doubting what you're saying but this hasn't been my experience. In any case, you could run a supplementary 2020 extrusion left to right to act as a new end brace which would float within the frame at whatever length you needed. Good luck.

hi i am in the uk i would like to do this upgrade but i did not want to wait 6 weeks for the rails to come. i have found a few but was not sure if it was the right ones or does it not matter one ones i get just as long as they are long enough

Length and bolt pattern.

Hi, great job! Just a question: how are the metail rails attached to the aluminum frame? With T nuts?

Thanks
Andrea

This design need 2 linear rails in 60cm length and i think it might waste some money if you are on budget. Actually every single point on the bed can move maximum 30cm so i think 2 linear rail at 35cm attached on the both side of the middle 4020 extrusion aluminum frame will save some money.

It doesn't need 60cm but 50cm....

Just to make it clear, do I need 400mm or 500mm rails? One of the links you posted links to a 400mm rail. Also, where is the best place to order better quality rails instead of the china knock offs? :D

500mm. Looks like they changed the title of their add as it used to be 500mm. They say they can cut any length in the description, but as that's not immediately obvious I switched out the link for a different one that is the correct product. Thanks for letting me know.

Thanks. Sorry about that, I missed that part were it says they can custom cut it. Any plans for a X axis linear rail mod?

Looking forward to installing this when my mgn12h arrive from Robodigg. I only ordered the 2 carriages that come with the trails. Do you think 4 are really necessary for stability with mgn12h?

The use of 4 carriages is to provide more stability by helping to prevent any bed flex front to back or diagonally. You can use two if you want but I have to assume 4 points would provide more stability than two, especially when we're talking about stability tolerances at less than 1mm . I'd recommend securing the carriages diagonally if you're only going to use two, and press down on the opposing corners after assembly to check for any flex using a digital gauge. You'll probably be fine but personally I'd want to know.

Just finished completing this design and it is great! The bed moves so easily and smoothly. Ditch the wheels and V-slot. This is the way to go. I'll post some pics when I get a chance.

Thanks for the design. It was well worth the effort!

Thanks! When I get a chance I'll be making a version 2 of this to give it a bit of a wider stance, thus improving stability, and to provide more mounting block screw patterns.

Do the rails have flex? Would a Z crash into the bed bend and ruin them?

Thinking about doing this mod but wondering if maybe I should support the rails with additional 2020 extrusions for support.

Haven't had this issue, rails are made of a strong metal, but couldn't hurt.

So ended up mounting the rails on some spare 1515 extrusion I had. I actually ended up skipping the adapter and drilled through the bed carriage to mount the rail carriages directly to the bed carriage. So far it seems to be working great. I'll post a pictures later today.

Lol well ya you could do that, but the adapter is meant to easily adapt without having to drill through the bed carriage. It's your printer though, can do whatever you like.

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Nice job! Wish it had 20x20 mounting for mgn12h thoug :)

MGN12H is now included and bracket has an overall wider stance.

Damn... my rail wont fit the frame... my rail (not block) have 25mm hole spacing, i think mgn9 rails uses 20mm hole spacing... :(

I have mgn12 and they fit my frame... The hole spacing on the rail is different but the two end holes where they bolt to the frame are the same. What's the issue you're having?

If i aligne the hole on one end then i still need like 5mm for the other end to aligne to the extrusion

That sucks, but you can still make it work. Run another 2020 extrusion perpendicular to the rails at one end and secure the extrusion to the frame on either end with these: http://s.aliexpress.com/bY367J7F.

will save the one i got now for future z mod :)

maybe, i have ordered som good quality german mgn rails now. tired of china knockoffs.. hope they fit :)

Yeah awesome just did my x and tomorow y :) thanks man

for the X what did you use - more details please thanks

Look at my design files section.

Funny you should ask, I have another set of MGN12C rails coming for my other printer, and when they arrive I'll be doing a version of this bracket for it. The mount pattern for the 12C is 20mmx15mm, but I could easily do bolt patterns for both. Going to take about a month to be shipped, but come back later and I'll have a version up for you.

How well do the holes line up to the frame?

You most likely will need to use a 1/8" drill to enlarge the holes for the brackets (I did). The holes for the connections to the CR-10 Y plate work fine.

Great, been using it for weeks and it's great, very stable.

Hi, Great idea.

I did have a thought - why not space the rails even further apart - possibly as far as you can go? This would increase stability further.

Pete

Yup this is definitely something to consider, and I'll likely extend it as a V2, but my concern was that I didn't want to get in the way of the leveling knobs, but after this first attempt I don't think that would be an issue.

I'm thinking of make this and wondering if PLA will work and, if so, what fill setting you used.

Thx

I used PLA yes, and enough infill for strength but little enough to keep the weight down. Between 20% - 40% I'd say, somewhere in there.

did you see any improvement from the v wheels?
Does it make more noise?

Thank you

Sorry for the delay. Does make a bit more noise, but nothing considerable or annoying. The main improvement over the V wheels is that these don't loosen or wear over time, and because they are a dual rail system and not just a single center mount, you eliminate the side to side wobble that causes issues with print quality. Only thing I'd do in the future would be to look for wider rails, so that they're even more stable, but this is leaps and bounds better than the V wheels in my opinion.

So if I were to use MGN15 would there need to be a change to the stl file?

thx

Ya probably, but no idea I don't have any of those. It's about the bolt pattern/distances from each other that matter for my STL file, as they're setup for distances based on the block I identified.

Thanks. I'll keep it simple and use the MGN9

Thanks again.