CR-10 Double X stepper damper bracket

by superkris Feb 13, 2018
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i was able to attach one dampener on the belt side, but then on the other side, the side with the cable connector, the screws are long screws that go through the entire stepper motor.

Unfortunately, they aren't long enough to work when you add the dampener on that side. I think I'll need some 40mm M3s for it to work.

With the 40mm M3s I was able to mount the stepper and bracket on my CR10.

I'm doing the same for my CR10s now, and this time unfortunately the bolts which go through the wheels are like 1mm too short. They are 40mm M5s but the threads are a little worn off on the ends so they don't grip the hex nut with their current length. I think I'll have to go buy some 45mm M5s.

It sounds like a few other people may have hit this same snag below, if the hex nut was like 1-2mm more recessed into the bracket then I think the stock screws would have worked.

I'm sorry, but this part doesen't fit on my CR-10s.

The Problem is that my dampers, which I bought from Amazon, are about 8,6 mm thick.

So when I mount the part, there is about 6 mm space between the mounting plates of the part and the printer. So I think my steppers are about 3 mm thicker than yours.

I decided to print this model here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2968764 with some modifications in the stl:

  1. Scaled up the height of the duct by 6 mm so I don't get the same problem again with my dampers
  2. Cut off some material on top of the upper mounting hole to prevent collissions with my filament sensor
CR-10 Double X Stepper Damper w/ Fan Mount

You need longer bolts/screws for the bearings/guides to go through. I used 40mm long 5mm bolts. 6-pack at lowes was $2.17 w/ tax.

Decent file, thanks for the upload, just wished the extra bit of info on needing hardware would have been posted, could have saved me a night~!

This is nice, it should work on the Ender 3, correct?

Can you post .stp or .iges? I really like this, but need to make a small tweak based on my damper thickness. Like you mentioned, they are not all created equal!

could you add version supporting this stepper motor: 17HS8401S (48mm height)

Just printed the original version.
I like the design, just printed it but haven't mounted yet.
But wanna give a suggestion, on the CR-10s this looks like it will hit the filament run out sensor.
Have you considered incorporating the Sensor mount in this?

Doesn't hit it, but damn close. Wish it was all one piece or a combo set.. would be awesome if it were.

Just confirming that this won't work on an ender 3 as-is- the motors used in the Ender-3 are shorter.

i ran into the same thing. :(

Just scale it in your slicer.

like the idea. problem is that I am running into temperature issues when printing at 60mm/s so I put some cooling on there.

as a result no room for this. I think I will have to create something similar that includes my fan+ heatsink :)

this will get me started

Your not the first to address this. Other people are using cooling on their steppers too, and my current design doesn't allow for much cooling.

Personally, like 90% of the CR10 users, i have not been having any trouble with to hot steppers. I usually print at 60mm/s too. If i run into this problem in te future i will address this, but for now i'm not planning a redesign.

steper motor is still bent a littlebit after putting this on. It's better but not perfect.

There should be more space around it cause it's touching to the enclosure of stepper motor. X Axis is loud because of that. It takes me few minutes with blade to deal with it. Now the noise is like with one stepper dumper.

Hi Akslow,

I think the dimensions may be a bit off on your printer. I have measured it very precise, and it fits great on my printer. Also your the first to address this problem, and this mod has been printed a lot! Maybe you should do some dimensional test and calibrate if necessary.

Hello and thanks for the design!
I would like to print this in ABS.
Do you think I need to resize in Simplify3D to allow shrinkage to the right dimensions?

Hard to say. I have very little experience with ABS. The tolorances for the m5 nut and n5 bolt are quite small this is a design feature alowing easy assembly, if the shrinkage would be to high, i guess this could make assembly more difficut instead. The main size that might give some problems if shrinkage is bad, is the distance between the m5 bolts. I dont have any numbers available, but lets say the distance is 100mm. If that would shrink 1% that would be a 1mm diffrence. That could be a little much. I dont know the shrink rate you are getting with abs, but if its over 1% i guess i would resize it by that pecentage.

Did you have to get longer bolts for the back/rear that go through the damper in to the motor??

I think its already written here somewhere, but the origional m5 bolts work. Im still using them. However, ther are to short to go fully trought the nut and will probably not touch the nylon in the nylon nut. 5mm longer would be ideal.

Will there be any long-term issue if I print this kind of upgrades with PLA?

I only used PLA for these parts. As long as your stepper doesnt run extremly hot you will be fine. PLA will deform at temperatures as low as 60c depensing on the type and brand. In my case the steppers do not get hot enough to get the pla near that temperature.

You should note that stepper dampers not only reduce vibrations but also heat transfer (rubber does not transfer heat very well)!
The steppers of my CR-10 were running cool until I used dampers. Now for most prints, the x and y axis steppers run as hot as 50°C, well outside the operatng temperature range of the NEMA17 ( -20 to +40°C).
You get less noisy prints but may reduce the lifetime of your steppers.
Now we need heatsinks on steppers :(

50 deg will be fine... i would be ok with 60.it the steppers would ever go bad, o would have no ptoblem paying something like 8$ for a new one.

The encloser reaches 40 degrees, the motor has to heat up a little, so I think you can't get lower than 50.

cool design , thanks a lot
do you happen to have the lenght of the srews you used
i am testing this on an ender 3 but the stock screws are too short

Are you talking about the M5 screws that hold the wheels? If so i'm surprised that they are shorter on the CR-10. Anyway, on the CR-10 they are a little short but seem to do the job. If i remember correctly the original screws are 40mm, The bracket is 4mm thick, so 45mm or 50mm would be best.

How is the ringing/ghosting after adding the dampers? How can you adjust the the pulley after belt tensioning in order for the belt to be centered?

I have not seen any real change in ghosting. I also have not hear about cases where dampers increase the ghosting noticeably, but i'm sure there will be people who claim this.

The way i see it, dampers could potentially create more flex for the steppers and this could have negative effects on the print quality. On the other had, these dampers reduce the amount of vibration by a lot. This could have a very positive influence on the print quality.

My design's purpose is to add a 2nd damper. You don't need it for a single damper. The 2nd damper design is to prevent flexing of the stepper if the belt is tight. For mounting the 1st stepper damper (not related to this design) you can simply loose the grub screws and pull the pulley out more. Its axis is long enough.

I understood your design and its purpose, i was curious to find if you noticed any improvement/loss of quality(besides diminishing the overall noise). Also I had problems with the y axis motor support after tensioning the belt because it bends too easy and the motor axis and pulley becomes inclined, that's why I asked how you manage the bending of the rubber damper after you tension the belts.

My opinion is that,although the damper minimize the vibration transmitted to the frame, it does not influence the vibration of the stepper motor axis/pulley and this is our big problem, moreover, i think that some of the vibration that is not transmitted anymore to the frame is transmitted to the motor axis which is more freely than before to vibrate, and this vibration goes via the belts up to the heated bed or nozzle.

Thanks a lot for this design ! it works incredibly well !!! very very silent and rigid on the CR-10S !!! there is just an interference with the filament detector plate but nothing important.
I'm looking for the Y one but i don't find it over here? do you have any link ?

Thanks for your feedback! The Y bracket i was referring to is this one:


CR-10 y-stepper damper brace/stiffening (compatible with Ultimate Leveling Knobs)

+1 for a version that doesn't require motor rotation. Seems like a great design otherwise!

I updated the thing with a new version that doesnt require the stepper to be rotated. Looking forward to your feedback!

My printer was out of service for a bit because things were getting moved around in the house, but it's finally back up and running and I can confirm the new mount with the stock mounting position fits just fine.

I did have a bit of a problem getting the nuts that mount the bracket to the frame into their slots so you may make the tolerance a bit larger, but that might just be my printer. I'm sure it's the same with your "normal" bracket too. There was also the small issue that the screws do not go all the way through the nuts with the added bulk of the bracket, maybe you could make it a bit thinner where the nuts mount? Of course you don't want it to be too weak, but I'm worried the screws might eventually loosen themselves since they don't reach the nylon lock ring.

One minor comment, the access hole for the wire connector is quite a bit larger than needed. The connector is very near the frame side of the bracket. It doesn't cause any problems and you can't even really see it when installed though.

Thanks for the design!

I wil will make one once my integrated design is finished. It will also feature the stepper to be in its original position, so i can copy that design to this one.

This is a really good idea!
If possible i would also want one that does not require the motor to be rotated.

I updated the thing with a new version that doesnt require the stepper to be rotated. Looking forward to your feedback!

So which one is the latest?

hey! this is really lovely, but if you're still prepared to work on it i'd put my vote in for a version that doesn't require teh motor to be rotated. the cable and connector seem more vulnerable sticking out to the side.
as for feature integration, it would be really nice if you can combine it with some of Junaling's work. it's equally impressive. anyway, thank you! gonna sub to stay in the loop :-)

The design will be based on this version. Ive learned a few things about drag chains, and i think this is a better design.


Small preview of the work in process:

Creality CR-10 Z axis cable drag chain