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Tevo Little Monster Needle Bearing Idler Pulley

by bLITzJoN, published

Tevo Little Monster Needle Bearing Idler Pulley by bLITzJoN Feb 15, 2018

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Tinkercad

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Thing Statistics

283Views 22Downloads Found in 3D Printer Parts

Summary

I was perusing a bearing website to locate some high-quality bearings to use for idler pulleys because I'm sick of crunchy bearings. Then I discovered these magical needle bearings tickling my creative mind. Little bit of tinker-cation and I determined the right combination of components to replace the current ball bearing setup with needle bearings! No more crunchiness!

What is needed:
(3) Idler-pulley-washer-part1.stl
(3) Idler-pulley-washer-part2.stl
(3) Drawn cup needle roller bearing ID:8mm, OD:12mm, W:10mm
(3) M6 x 12mm Shoulder Bolt
(3) M6 Locking Nut
(1) Grease (Optional)

UPDATE - 2018-04-26
V5 - I've been running this for several months now and I think I have them down to a science. Applying the KISS principle, you really only need 2 washers and I would recommend either buying nylon washers from the hardware store or printing with a self-lubricating material like IGUS or even Proto-pasta's conductive filament (it's a graphite composite and what I'm currently using). You can tap the plate, but I can tell you the metal is soft and will cause the post to bend (which is why the previous designs were failing me). I do recommend the greasing the bearing since the needles are exposed.

UPDATE - 2018-02-25
V3 - Tapered for guiding and form fitting around the head of the bolt. No supports are needed. I just printed and installed on latest TLM rebuild and am VERY happy with the results!

Print Settings

Printer:

Tevo Little Monster

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

.2

Infill:

n/a


Notes:

I'm currently using Proto-pasta Conductive filament since it contains graphite.

Post-Printing

I used an M6 tap to thread the hole (no drilling required). If you purchase the hardened steel shoulder bolts it'll self-tap since the bracket is soft aluminum. Put a dab of grease on the shaft or inside the bearing, assemble based on the image, tighten the shoulder bolt enough the washers and bearing move freely and use the locking nut to keep it in place. Enjoy!

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with all due respect, the washers on either side are going to wear out pretty quickly and allow movement, this will translate to noise in the print. Any reason why you did not just buy some decent M5 idler pulleys, bearings & axle bolts and replace the whole assembly as they are only about $3 each a set??

Also worth using idler pulleys with teeth to add additional smoothness to the pulley setup

I have high-quality bearings and poly wheels for the trucks from 3dvice. As long as the belts are aligned there shouldn't be a great deal of horizontal play. I've printed well over 100 hours so far and I'm loving the setup; to the point, I'm experimenting with the same treatment to the trucks once all the parts arrive. Hey, all just theory and speculation until you try. I'm sharing my experiences with an alternative to ball-based bearings.

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