DIY Trigger Style Electric Skateboard Remote

by modminiman Feb 21, 2018
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I saw your price on the tx and rx set up. What was your about total price of the custom board set up?

The attention to detail is just amazing! Thank you very much!

I really would like to build this design, i really like it!
But i got a problem with the case, the narrow edge where the case is plugged together is too small.
I am printing with a 0.4mm nozzle and i also tried printing this with 0.2mm walls, but the walls are just thin and shaky :(

I am using a 0.4mm nozzle too, it prints out as a single wall.

You can do a few things. 1 make sure your printer is well calibrated so that it prints that single wall properly.

After that I sometimes use super glue to wick into the layers of that wall for added strength.

Hope this helps.

Hey, would be nice if you can publish a step file of this thing so that we can improve it by our own. ;-)
i love using this remote every time i step on my board.

Does this remote also work with cruise control?

No, you will need to adjust the code yourself for that.

I didn't bother because where I come from I almost never ever ever have a chance to use cruise control

Love the design, I printed a version using a resin printer.


Is it possible you can create a version without the screw poles? The resin plastic is too brittle for screws. I would likely be gluing it anyways.

Not sure which exact area you wish to remove.

You can always use a tap to cut the resin into having threads, that might work.

Gluing the case together is a bad bad option, I've had to open it up for multiple reasons (update firmware, replace parts, replace landyard, etc)

UV resin prints are quite brittle. So I was thinking of gluing it earlier.. But I am still trying to get the nrf24 to link up consistently. The "look" part have to delay before I get the rest working..

May be I will just change the screw part to through hole later.. will see.

hey man!

Great job with the design and programming..I am using a esc and would like to know how you connected the arduino based receiver to your esc.. if its not a problem can you came a tutorial on putting the remote together to work.


Apologies, I just noticed you left a comment.

The receiver is connected to the ESC via regular PWM signal... 5V is supplied from the ESC.

Please see my links for a rough build guide, I have no time to do a full tutorial.

Thanks for sharing, I like the design of it.

A few comments

  • The trigger:

    1. Why not make the part where the finger goes a bit thicker, to the top of the part so that it makes it printing easier.
      That way it would be printed facing down and the only part requiring support would be the slot for the bearing that is ok as it will never
      be seen.
  • The case:
    1. Would it be possible to get a case version to use the square lipo cell used in the version of SoligGeek. Your version has is made to hold
      the round cell so this other type won't fit.


Hi there,

For the trigger, I much rather NOT having to remove support structure where the bearing sits. Reason being its harder to remove from a recessed hole than it is from a surface.

As to making it thicker, I based it on existing triggers to get a suitable width. In terms of printing, it's really very do-able, so I won't bother to change it.

As for the case, yes I thought about this point and I have included 2 new files without the round lipo holder for those who are going to use a square shaped one instead.

Thanks and I hope you manage to build the remote!


Thanks for the reply.

I see, I don't have much problems removing support, the reason I asked that was because this way you'll always end up with a ugly surface on one side of the trigger due to the support.
Making it thicker was just an easy solution to the issue above.

Thanks for the case files, I printed the cell ones but I'll print those o try.

PS: The switches do you use them with the metal tab or without? In the pics they are inserted so is not possible to see.

I actually sand the trigger down to make it nicer...

As for the limit switches, the metal tabs are retained, but the mode switch (the one on top) I clip off a little. You need to place the limit switch and the plastic printed switch at the same time, they won't fit if you do one first.

Lastly, I use a bit of hot glue to keep the switch in place.