Hinged Chest with Working Lock and Wood Texture

by DrLex Feb 22, 2018
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How did you create the wood grain pattern? I'm interested in making some other projects with wood grain, but I have no clue where to begin with it.

I didn't create this texture, I took it from here and used modifiers in Blender to bend it.

OpenForge 2.0 Wooden Floors

Great design DrLex! I really love it and would like to give it a try.
However I would like to print the wood in a different material than the metal frame (e.g. like https://www.thingiverse.com/make:610158).
Can you provide separate stl files for this, or even better a solid model. Or what is the preferred way to print this thing with multiple materials?

Hinged Chest with Working Lock and Wood Texture

Someone has made a remix for printing the parts in different materials: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2840972 (I think ReefShark88's make was printed from that model). This remix is not usable for multi-material printing, it is for printing the parts separately and then assembling them with glue. Support material will be required for some of the parts.

If you do have a dual extrusion or multi-material printer and prefer to print this in one piece, I’m working on a dual extrusion version which should be available within the next few days.

Hinged Chest with Working Lock and Wood Texture (separated straps remix)

Yes, I have the MMU extension for a Prusa i3 MK3 printer (https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/printer-upgrades/183-original-prusa-i3-mk25smk3s-multi-material-2s-upgrade-kit-mmu2s.html) and I would like to print this part in one piece. For doing this, the slicer expect different complementary files for each material.

However splitting the original mesh into 2 different meshes (one for the wood, one for the metal straps) doesn't seems to be straightforward (at least not to me, I'm not a 3d expert) because of the ribbed surface of the wood and hence the complex boundary between the 2.

So if you could provide those 2 complementary models, that would be awesome! Thanks in advance :)

You're right, splitting the parts was not straightforward, I had to tear the whole model apart and rebuild it in a more systematic manner to split the materials without going crazy.
Here is the result. If you print this, I would appreciate it if you would allow me to use photos of your make on the thing page, because I won't be printing this myself anytime soon and I have a strong aversion against Things that do not have a real photo of an actual 3D print :)

Hinged Chest with Working Lock, Dual Extrusion
by DrLex

Many Thanks DrLex!
I will post some photo's once printed (expect in the next couple weeks) :)

Now no one can steal my cookies...

Awesome this printed very well for me in different sizes. This is got to be the best and easiest to print chest I have seen. The key and lock are great I only run a deburr tool over the parts and it goes together.*/

This printed wonderfully for me on a prusa mk2.5. I ran out of silver mid-print and swapped to black, got a nice two-tone thing going. Quick, easy print. Thanks, I'm sure my kid will love it!

I guess if you ever lock the key inside, you can just 3D-print another one. xD

Indeed, although the lock is so simple that a bent paperclip will also do… :)

I've got a question after printing a 200 version. How lower locking part is supposed to be fixed in place? In my case it's a bit loose so I am able to open the chest without a key :) Perhaps it could be fixed with super glue etc. if so? Im in doubt where to apply it as it's a moving part.

Try printing the attached model. It has tighter tolerance in the X direction, the same as in the regular scale model. If this works well, please tell me so I can update the files. If it is still too loose, I can give an even tighter part to try.

Glue would be a sure way to permanently fix the part but it is risky, especially the kind of super glue that cures within seconds. You could use a less quick glue, a very small amount on the bottom end of the latch should suffice.

Thank you so much DrLex! :) Since the moment I inserted it the locking mechanism works like a charm.
All the best!

Thank you very much for the model! This was my first meaningful print with my new Prusa i3 mk3 kit.
My daughter loves the chest :)

Would it be possible to have a version of this scaled up to 200% and the walls thinned out? I love the model, but when scaled up, the walls are really thick

I have added larger models with thinner walls and appropriate tolerances for this scale. I haven't printed these, so tell me how it works out.

that's amazing, thank you! I will print this as soon as my next print is done and let you know :D

Comments deleted.

Looking at the lid, if there are no supports used, it would be printed open end up. Since the top is rounded will this cause problems for bed adherence? it seems like it might cause printing problems. if printed flat side down it would appear to be more stable but would need supports for the dome. Suggestions? Cute design. i will try to print it in brown or black. Jolly Roger would be a cool touch.

I don't recommend trying to print the lid with the open end up. The result will likely be ugly unless you're using soluble support material. Moreover, you would need about as much support material as when printing flat side down anyway.
You should be able to print this flat side down without supports, even though the top of the dome violates the typical 45° rule and every automatic overhang detection will try to convince you that you need supports. Supports are not needed because the contours are anchored at both sides, which means they are actually bridges. Therefore if you have passed the bridge torture test, you should be able to print this without any supports, like I did. A cooling fan will help a lot to print these bridges/overhangs correctly. I only saw some minor curling up of the middle of those bridged contours in the very last layers before the top of the dome was sealed, but it was not problematic at all.
If you're in doubt whether you can print this without supports, you can slice the upper section of the lid in a mesh editor of your choice, and print that part.

Bridge Torture Test

The base came out fine. I printed the top, with the flat part on the bed. After about the first 1/3 it has a more "weathered look to it. The very top spline on the inside was the most difficult fro my printer to handle. It is very rough and the filament did not lay flat. i sort of figured this would be an issue. It will take a lot of support material to give it stability, probably more than the actual lid. The little hinges are perfect and snap together well. So is the area for the latch and key. Maybe I will try support material.

I agree. Should not need support to print the top.