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ibandreas

Prusa MK3 Bed Camera Mount (snap on) for Pi Camera V2

by ibandreas Feb 23, 2018
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The camera end of the "dumbell" fits nice and snug, but the mounting part that fits the other end of the dumbell seems a little wider, therefor looser, to the point that the slightest bump will knock it off.

Anyone have suggestions?

Does not fit on front left (hits extruder) and back (the camera will get hit by frame).

Printed it 5 times in PETG, 100% infill, bottom part where the tie wrap goes always breaks as the section is too thin.

Amazing concept though!

Any chance of a STEP file for this?

Worked for me in PETG. I didn't bother with screws inside, just a small dab of glue to hold the case shut. It's such a good fit around the Pi camera. The only thing was I did have to reprint the bed mount part with a raft as it fell over towards the end of the print - it would have been great if each part was available as individual STLs but didn't take long to separate it out. Many thanks for the design.

I got this printed in PETG fine with some modifications (longer dogbone with higher scale so its more of a firm grip).

I'm having issues w/ the cable getting caught on things though and pulling the camera around, how are you routing/mouting your pi cam cables?

i have remixed the neck, and in the process of testing it, i extended the neck "dogbone" by 10,20,40 mm will upload just the bones asap.

Going to print this soon - within 24 hours I'm hoping.

Should I do this in PETG so the heat doesn't mess w/ the PLA when the heated bed is higher temps for other materials?

Thanks!

How in the world does it snap on? I see others have done it, but I'm dumbfounded. I just printed it and ended up taking out the screw and bearing to slide it in.

Edit: I stared at it for 10 minutes and couldn't figure it out, but analyzed the model for a minute and it was so obvious. Jeez, I can be very dumb sometimes.

This looks good, I'm printing it now, but was wondering if you could post the parts as separate STLs, or how do I resize just the dumbbell? I'm thinking I might want one a little longer.

lol I was just looking for this as well. I know in the past I have seen longer dumbells on here, but I can't seem to find them anymore

How does this 'Snap on'? There is a bar across the open part so it can't go on the arm under the bed mount lol....

HAHAHAHAHA Never mind, I was looking at it upside down lol!

Very nice! Though one thing I'd add to the description is the kind of screws you need to screw in the camera module. I for one did not have those laying around.

Also, would you consider making a version with a longer dumbbell? I'm thinking about twice as long. That would let me put the camera a little bit higher up (and out of the way of the print head…), so I can see into the model for a bit longer while it's printing. I can't seem to modify the STL file when loaded into TinkerCAD, is there some other software that lets you do this?

Would this work on MK2s?

Actually I have no idea! I don't have an MK2s but if the frame under the bed and the bed clearance is the same then I see no reason why it wouldn't work.

I'm testing with an MK2S upgraded to an MK2.5. I don't have an MK3, but it looks like it screws the heated bed down to the Y frame from above, while the MK2 is from below. You will have to remove that screw on the MK2 to slide on the bracket, but then you can put the screw back.

This is by far the best bed mount for the MK3 I have seen, I am no expert at modelling but would you ever consider doing a single ball mount rather than the "dumb-bell"?

I'm not exactly sure what the advantage would be. With the "dumb bell" you have 2 points where you can adjust the camera position which allows considerably more flexibility compared to just one point. For my timelapses, getting the camera position just right is critical for a good result! Perhaps I misunderstood you though. Let me know!

I just made one and it looks great! A few questions:

  • What is your method for closing the back door to the camera compartment?
  • Where do you mount the pi itself, and how long is your ribbon cable?

Thanks, will upload pictures soon

For me the back just snapped right on and a friction fit was enough to hold! Your mileage may vary however depending on the materials. Super glue or hot glue is your friend here in that case (Id prob use hot glue since it will be easier to pry open).

I havent gotten around to mounting the pi yet but I think I will make something to hang the pi right off the EINSY case, perhaps hooking it on to the vent holes.

I think pi mount and ribbon cable management will be the next thing I do on this project if people want it. I have a 2m ribbon cable which is waaaay too long. I feel like 1m should probably be good.

Good luck and please do post pics!

Is there any chance you could do a mount for the pi camera v2.1? (the only thing that would change is the location of the square hole)
Ty in advance

I have tested it with the pi camera v 2. I’m not aware of a pi camera v 2.1. Can you send me a link to it? I definitely want to support it if there’s a new camera module!

Please do forget what I said. I just remarked that I do not have the orginal raspberry pi camera module. But at least it looks like a "good" fake :) I will buy the original one and then I should be fine. Thank you anyways.

General question: Why does everyone mounts the camera directly on the printbed? Isn't the constant movement bad for the video quality(shaking)?

Because if you mount the camera to the bed then the camera always stays the same distance from the printed part. Therefore the timelapse photos have this cool effect where it looks like the printed part grows from the bottom.

If you don’t care about timelapse then this probably isn’t for you.

Incidentally I made the video in the slideshow above using the attachment and I’m quite pleased with the quality even while the bed is moving.

OctoPrint has other timelapse settings you can adjust to tweak this. You could even add camera triggers in your g code but I haven’t done that yet! Good luck!

Note that the "dumb-bell" size may need to be adjusted depending on what you use to print it.

Let me know if you made it!