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majda107

*MINI* All In One 3D printer test

by majda107 Feb 25, 2018
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What was your average print time of this model ? for me it take 3h

3H10M @ 0.16 for me.

I ran this test today for the first time. It's on a Ender 3 Pro stock with a Glass Bed added. Most of the print came out in good shape. As I got over about 60 degrees the lines became apparent. I ran it in Cura on Normal Profile with 100% in fill and not other changes. I'm noticing a slight warp in the base though that I'm not sure about. Thoughts on what might cause this bow?

Griffin.

Howdy!

This has happened to me numerous times. I think its due to three main factors, being 1) the adhesive properties of the bed, 2)the temperature of the bed, and 3) the temperature of the nozzle. The higher the temperature in the nozzle the longer it takes for it to solifidy, resulting in higher adhesion to the bed, but at the cost of layer height firmness. If the bed isn't sticky enough it wont hold and so it will start to bend upwards because of the temperature of the bed (if its too hot, it will start doing this; its like when you put a tortilla on a hot pan, it shrinks and it starts to curve upward).

Other than that your prints look awesome.

Regards.

I printed the file yesterday; Most of the features seemed to have printed fairly well. The overhang is quite blocky at the end, is this because of the resolution or because of overextrusion? Stringing was minimal. The undersides of the overhang at the top is a bit bulgy/thicker than the rest.
What concerned me most is that all the text is all messed up. Looks like it got mushed togerther or something. Anyone can help with that? I print on the Anycubic i3 Mega.

Got a 3D printer for the first time this weekend and while I am not new to CAD, very new to Cura (version 3.6) and my printer (Monoprice Maker Ultimate).

Used PLA with 0.1mm layer height, 100% infill, print speed 40mm/s, 200 C nozzle 60 C bed, cooling fan 100%, no support, and other common settings shown in photos.

If anyone has any suggestions to why it is not printing the top layer correctly (it basically just looks like it didn't print the top layer at all!), the bridging failed with the medium lengths, or uneven stringiness under the overhangs greater than 45 degrees, please let me know!

Hey,

that looks like extrusion issue! Be sure that filament flow is clear, then be sure that your diameter is correct and flow set to 100%.

Then do some basic calibration, check my guide how to do so.

Marián.

After my first 3 partially failed printings ever I decided to go for this test. So I'm still a noob.

Ran on brand new CR-10s. Used CCTREE PLA that came with the printer, with recommended 100% infill, 200 nozzle and 60 bed. Otherwise everything standard in Cura latest 3.6.

Can you help me please with what went wrong and suggestions to fix?

What I noticed so far:

  1. The small writing failed almost completely, the bigger ones look fine.
  2. The 75 and 80 degrees marks have visible horizontal lines (on the bottom side it's even more pronounced). This may be a bit of of over extrusion?
  3. There is some filament excess on some parts as seen in pictures. Looks like a bit of stringing?

Isn't that bad tho!

Calibrate your extruder and try using different PLA.

75 and 80 dgr overhang has visible lines because of big layer height...

Marián.

Have you calipered the PLA that came with the printer? My 10s's stock filament came out to like 1.69 or some garbage.

Comments deleted.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

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Hello.
First of all, thanky you for creating this test and uploading it for everyone to use.
Here are my results.
I wanted to say that I am not new to 3d printing, but just returned from half year "pause". This print was made on a project printer that I was assembling before I went on "vacation". It's a prusa i3 chinese knockoff, that I got from a collegue and rebuilt. My memories and experience on calibrating is a bit rusted now.
What I dont like about the print :

  1. Text is not as good as I want it to be.
  2. The little details are a bit overextruded i think. Theyre a bit weird, like a little bigger on some layers.I think I calibrated the extruder before, but I should probably recalibrate it. Also maybe its a retract issue? Could be also Z axis issue, but for bigger parts the walls seem to be printing better.
  3. Also my walls seem to be a bit crooked/wave like and not perfectly straight. I can see it very good on sharp corners and looking from the side. Not really bad, but enough to make me dislike the quality, as my other printer didnt have this issue. Could it be because of 2 seperate Z axis motors / mesh bed leveling?
    Hope you can give me some insight and help.
    Thank you.
    Best regards,
    Toms

Hi mate, looks pretty good to be honest! If the printer is anything like my Anet A8 (RekRap / Prusa clone) then you will want to address belt tension by printing a few parts, and make sure to oil the rods that the linear bearings run on as well as the screw threads for the z-axis movement. I found a single drop of machine oil (like '3-in-1' or 'Mighty Mouse') was all they needed. Work with your extruder settings and you should have a great print.

Hey friend,

Thanks for detailed comment.

I am sorry for late reply, I am hellaaa busy.

You should check guide in model description, i’d help you a lot!

It’s not that bad by the way, calibrate extruder, pids,.. and you should be fine!

Let me know results then!

Marián.

I want to thank you for creating this file and making it available to everyone.

I look forward to testing my printer, once I finish assembling it.

I would like to mention an issue with supporting through the 5 sec advertising link ... comes up with another domain without advert, then goes rapidly through 24-36 other referral domains and either crashes my browser or ends up on a scam page for having won money. With no way back. In six attempts, it never went to your site ... or guide. So, you may want to consider a better advert alternative or another donation / support option.

Quick update:

Tested that link from my MacBook on both safari and chrome web browsers, works well...

Maybe depends on your ad-block or something? I am not sure...

Sincerely,
Marián.

I was using my iPad and Safari ... the strange things happened when I clicked through on the ad page.

Weird.. maybe it’s due to the ipad?

Hey friend,

First of all, thanks for your support!

The link is normal ad.fly link and I see people who looked at it! I’ll check it if it’s bad, thanks for the attention.

For people who want to support me with some small symbolic amount of money there is a tip designer button or they can send tip on my paypal “majda.trpkos@icloud.com”...

I made the ad.fly link just to make some small provisiout out of my work, I am still 15 years old student after all.

Thanks,
Marián.

I've just printed this test and I'm noticing some stringing issues. How could I improve my results?

Hi friend,

stringing is one thing that I described in my guide. Link is in model description. Hope this helps you!

Marián.

Overall, pretty pleased to see how my printer did without much tweaking. There's a lot of room for improvement though. Bridging and overhang look good, but it looks like I have ringing and lines to deal with still.

Not that bad!

Definitelly check guide in model description, you should find help here!

Marián.

Can someone please explain where to set the resolution to 200um in Simplify3D?

Sorry, I am a complete newb and don't know what "um" means.

Hey friend,

Um is, micrometer I think. It’s basically one-thousand of millimeters, so 200um is 0.2mm.

Kindly set 0.2 layer height in Simplify3D, this should do a trick!

Marián.

It came out pretty well in my opinion, but I do feel like I had some issues though. There was a LOT of stringing between the overhang tests, some fell off between the print bed and the pictures but it was "bridged" between the two when it was done printing. I also had a hollow "ring" between the walls of the diameter test as seen in the photos. The text didn't come out too well but I do feel like that was a constant factor in all the makes that I've seen so far. Any suggestions on fixing/improving these issues, if possible? I'm running a Makerbot Replicator 2, PLA, off of Simplify 3D. Thanks in advance!

Not that bad!

I'd suggest you to calibrate extruder, do some PID tuning and tighten belts... (if they aren't yet).

You can checkout how to do so in my guide right here:
https://3dnation504795197.wordpress.com/guide/
Here is link for those people, who wan't to support me, it won't cost you any money, only 5 seconds of your time. So If you want to support me (without any fees), go to the guide this way! Thanks <3
http://zipansion.com/3C9Yh

Sincerely,
Marián

OK so my print started OK and then it kinda went off the rails pretty quick. I have had good results with my Monoprice Maker Select V2 and I've also been struggling a lot now. Started OK then there was a layer shift. The text is not legible and the overhang test failed pretty bad. Bridging was really good and there is no stringing at least! I am hoping that someone can look at my print and tell me what the heck is going on. I am pretty sure the temperature is too hot (printed at 205 cause why the hell not...nothing else seems to be working well) but there are other problems too. ALSO, I get this...wobbling?... affect when there are sudden changes of direction. Lasts about an inch or so on the print.

Hey friend,

I am not sure if it's wobble or not, it looks more like a over-extrusion for me.
I think that you should definitely calibrate your extruder and PIDs, maybe print some temp tower.

I wrote article about this. It may solve your problem. Be sure to share your results then!

Link:
If you wan't to support me, go through this link, it won't cost you anything but 5 seconds of AD and it'll push me forward. Thanks!
http://zipansion.com/3C9Yh

Otherwise there is direct link...:
https://3dnation504795197.wordpress.com/guide/

Hope this helps,
Marián

That looks like an awesome guide and I will definitely check it out this weekend. I will even turn off my ad blocker and use the first link! Thank you! I will try to remember to post my results back here.

I tuned my extruder (was actually under-extruding some), tuned my PIDs (rock solid now) and slowed some acceleration and jerk settings. I printed a temperature tower and there was very little if any difference between all the temperatures. I went back to this part and tried printing again and things were a little better but still not very good. I then switched from the gray Hatchbox filament to red Hatchbox filament (kept all of the same settings within Cura) and BOOM everything was pretty damn good! Still failed the overhang test and I am not sure why...not enough part cooling? Any thoughts overall on the red print other than the overhang problem?

Hey friend,

Your results look definitelly better!

Glad to hear that my guide helped you and that you have supported me via AD link, thanks! <3.

This can be caused by multiple things, I’d say print better cooling fanduct, be sure to run fans at 100%.
Also some PLAs can cause this, try different brand than hatchbox, maybe PM Prusa filament? Or extrafill? That’s what I use and it’s perfect!

Hope this help :-).

Marián

I do actually use a Dii cooler on my printer. It's much better than stock. I am still tweaking things. Have belt tensioners to install. I have some matterhackers PLA coming so that will be interesting to test as well. Thanks again for the help!

No problem! Great to hear that you are figuring out how to remove issues!

Marián.

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Hey, new here and just got my printer few days ago. Its a monoprice mini v2. Is this a good test to run on this particular printer? Also i download the file and keep getting the following - "This file is invalid for use as the following: Certificate Trust List" just curious as to what I might be doing wrong?

Again new here so sorry for the lack of knowledge. Any assistance is greatly appreciated as well as any other tips for beginners to 3d printing.

Thank you,
Bren

Hi Ben, welcome to the world of 3D printing. I'm also on the low end of the learning curve, haha. Download a software called 'Cura', it will let you slice the .stl file to suit your machine. Hope that helps!

Oh! He meant that he can’t open .stl file...

Yes, Cura is really good slicing software, I am getting best results from it..

You may also want to try Slic3r, Slic3r PE, Simplify 3D and Kissslicer!

Marián.

Hey Bren,

I don't understand about which certificate are you talking... Yes this test is good for your printer!

Marián.

Hey, new here and just got my printer few days ago. Its a monoprice mini v2. Is this a good test to run on this particular printer? Also i download the file and keep getting the following - "This file is invalid for use as the following: Certificate Trust List" just curious as to what I might be doing wrong?

Again new here so sorry for the lack of knowledge. Any assistance is greatly appreciated as well as any other tips for beginners to 3d printing.

Thank you,
Bren

Comments deleted.

Overall I'm happy with my printers results. But I always seem to have issues trying to close up that top surface or make tiny font come out decently. Also in those tiny little posts you can see I sometimes get little blobs and zits and have no idea why. I've tried numerous settings changes but then again I suppose some of the issue could be cheap plastic as I use the dirt cheap chinese PLA from Midland... Any advice?

Hey friend,

your results looks really awesome!

I think that you can fix these issues by replacing new nozzle, calibrating extruder and pids!

Hope this helps :-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Comments deleted.

Hi,

I printed your test in my CTC printer (replicator 2x) and almost setisfected the results! just want to know is it the limit of my printer or it can be improved more? My printer is upgraded a bit like extra cooling vent and a new feeder for the extruder some bearings to hold axis (to prevent shaking) but at 60 degree problems begin as you can see at the added pics. and the texts are mostly unclear. any suggestion?
thank you

Hey friend,

your print looks really nice!

You are always able to upgrade your printer, I am sure that this isn't the limit!

First of all, try to calibrate your extruder and PIDs, that may improve overhangs!

Also print some temperature tower test to find out which temperature settings are best!

Hope this helps :-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

I forgot to set the infill to 100% rather than my default 20% Will this void the test or will I just see results that will be indicative of the less infill?

Hey rtracer13,

Infill doesnt affect print quallity almost at all (at least in my test). 20% infill is really ok!

Hope this helps :-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

So my question is this....

Firstly I’m very happy overall with my results. Cheaper 3D printer, but great results.... siting around 1 - 5% variances on external dimensions... and my bridging was MUCH better than I expected.. so thank you...

BUT my internal diameters seem much greater variance.

4mm hole is 3.66mm
And the 3mm hole was about 2.5mm

Interestingly the 10 mm internal rectangles were damn near perfect

The 1mm wall was actually aroun 1.3 - 1.4 mm

What settings should I be looking at?

Thanks for the model and any advice.

Hey friend,
there is nothing more to advice then try to calibrate your printer & extruder!

Search online and see how its done!

Hope this helps :-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

My top text seems kinda hard to read. Anyone got an idea what might be the issue?

Mk3, PLA, 205 c, 0.2mm

Hey friend,

Try to calibrate your extruder and enable "thin walls" in your slicer!

Hope this helps :-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

I made these on 2 different Mooz 2 printers. So, all the yellow are on one printer and the red/pink on the other. I've noticed @majda107 commenting on how to improve prints using this model as a calibration tool. Is there a guide available to refer to and compare pictures with recommendations? Here are pictures of the prints made on the 2 different Mooz 2 printers.

Hey friend,

it looks pretty good!

I have no special complains about your printouts, but it seems like you should calibrate your all printers!!!!

I'd suggest you to calibrate PIDs and EXTRUDER, that's VERY important....

You may also try to tweak some retraction settings....

Hope this helps a bit, try it and send your results here :-).

Also, there is no guide but it's really good idea... should I make one?

PS: Sorry for late reply, loads of things to do as a student...

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Please make a guide! That would be very helpful!

Hey friend,

I started to write a guide, it isn't complete yet, but I think I've catched there 3 major problems that people often experience.
I'll definitely update it in my free time.

Link:
If you wan't to support me, go through this link, it won't cost you anything but 5 seconds of AD and it'll push me forward. Thanks <3:
http://zipansion.com/3C9Yh

Otherwise there is direct link...:
https://3dnation504795197.wordpress.com/guide/

Hope this helps,
Marián

I have currently broken laptop, that’s why I als reply with delay...

But I’ll keep your email in my mailbox so I’ll see it every day!

I’ll try my best to make guide! :-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Made this with my prusa MK3. The stringing tests broke during transporting the finished product to a different location. Pleased with the results, but letters could maybe be a little better. Any suggestions?

Hey friend,

try to calibrate your printer and tighten belts, that may solve the problem!

Hope this helps :-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Hey Dzuljo,

first of all all I’d suggest you to calibrate your printer steppers motors AND EXTRUDER!!

Also if you have a8 (like I do) migrate to marlin, this may solve some problems.

Also calibrate PIDs!!!!!

And in the end tighten your belts, check Z rods if there is no Z wobble and then you should be fine.

Hope this helps :-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Anet A8, ABS, 60mm/s, layer 0,2mm. infill 20%, I'm new to printing, my biggest difficulty is in the top layer. I'm new to printing, my biggest difficulty is in the upper layer and warp, always give a little bit of warp, I'll try another glue.

Hey friend!

It looks pretty good!

I use “Herkules” gluestick with PLA and it’s pretty good, put the printer in box and you’ll have no warping problems! (Or make custom enclousure)

Hope this helps :-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Ignoring the obvious massive layer shift on the y-axis for now (because I've never had that happen on any other print before, so I'm going to just call it a fluke error here unless I start seeing more of it), what do you suggest to get rid of all the stringing?

Anet A8, 50mm/s print, 200mm/s travel, .1mm layer, 100%infill, .8mm walls, PLA @ 180 nozzle and 60 bed, retraction enabled

Hey friend!

You can reduce stringing by adjusting retraction values!

You can also try to calibrate your extruder, this should help a lot!!!!!

Also in your place I’d calibrate all your steppers, it should help you definitelly!!

Hope this helps a bit :-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Brand new to 3d printing. Have a Prusa MK3 that I just put together, printed a few small items successfully and decided to give this a go. Using the PLA that came with the kit and the default settings. I forgot to set the infill to 100%, so I'll correct that on round two once I'm able to address the cause of the warping. Other than the warping, I'm pretty pleased with the outcome. I'll post round two pictures later.

Hey friend!

It looks pretty good, i don’t know what warping do you mean but if you mean bed warping, try and add more bed temperature.

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Hello, i am using simplify 3d 4.0

my settings are:

nozzle temp: 217° from first layer..
heatbed: 55°
Filament: owl Filament pla grey

i Think my print is not so bad, but i have always the top layer problems, what do you think ist the best to edit for better results?

Hey friend!

I’d say that it looks pretty good! Your problem maybe isn’t in Simplify 3D, but it’s maybe in extruder calibration.

Simply try and calibrate your extruder.

Sadly I can’t suggest you anything else, because I don’t use S3D at all :-(.

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

hello thanks for reply will try it to calibrate and reply again. :)

Curious to see results then :-).

Hello :)

Could you give me some advices to get a better result on this test ?
I used the basic profile of Cura (0'2) (200' Nozzle) 0.4 nozzle
Should have printed it on 190' for the bridges, however there are some issues with the inscription (description like "support test")

Thank you for this test :)

Hey friend,

I’d say that it looks pretty good, only thing I’d suggest you to do is extruder calibration, overall step calibration and maybe PID tuning.

This may solve all your problem!

Let me know if it helps ;-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Comments deleted.

So I was in middle of my CR-10S calibration and had band practice tonight and decided to print this to see where I was was in the process. I expected the worse but got this.... :) It's Bowden so I still have some micro-stringing and my bridging is not where i want it to be but my overhangs are epic!

Hey friend!

That looks sooo gorgeous :-).

Thanks for uploading!

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Yeah man, I wasn't actually expecting this to print well since I was in middle of my calibration and knew I had some stuff to work out - but I wanted the printer to do something while I was rehearsing with the band last night. There are flaws in the print which I need to sort out, but it's a fun little test print. For the viewers wondering what I did here - two pieces of advice: 1) Efficient and effective cooling with a part cooling fan with high static pressure. The overhangs and bridging are ALL about the cooling. And 2) Calibrate your hardware - especially your extruders esteps AND THEN calibrate the flow/extrusion multiplier. Those two things can get you in the ballpark.

Hey friend,

I strongly recommend to calibrate extruder steps first, it’s really important!

Also good luck with your tuning! I am currently moving to E3D Bowden on my Anet A8 meta machine!

Regards,
Marián Trpkoš.

I think I said that as point #2 - and you really also need to calibrate your flow after calibrating the esteps. Together that resolves a lot of extrusion related issues. :)

Good luck with your bowden setup. Hopefully it works out for ya!

I know, I just repeat it because it's really important!!

I was looking like for 2 weeks where is my layer problem, I thought I have issue in Z banding or other things... then I checked my e-steps and they were off.... lol!

Good luck with your calibration :-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Hey! THanks for all the steps! Is there any process/documented method to use to calibrate extruder? I have a CR10s. THANKS!

Hello!

Calibration of e-steps is very easy, simply measure 120mm of filament from extruder and then put G1 E100 M100 command in terminal (at least I think it’s like that)! Then simply measure distance from extruder to marked place and it should be 20mm. If not so, calculate basic deviation.

Hope it helps :-).

If you don’t understand my explanation, simply search online.

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Hello Majda, I've tried to print your test and the result was worst than expected, I thought that my printer was better calibrated :(
The printer settings I've used are: PLA, hotend 210ºC with layer fan, build plate 60ºC, LH 0,2 (using 0,35mm nozzle).

As you can see in the attached photos, the surface with the test names is totally unreadable, the bridging is very bad (with more than 50º), and I have a lot of misaligned layers (but I think that the motors are not loosing steps).

Thanks!

Hey yastxd!

Your printout isn't so bad, I kinda like it, but I can see some common problems here...

So first of all, tighten your belts!! I can see how your layers are distorted...

Also in your place I'd try to decrease temperature a bit, 210 is really lot for PLA, if you want perfect bridges and overhangs, try something like 190C!

If motors are loosing steps, there has to be some problem... first of all check your printer and fix your motors!

Hope this helps at least a bit :-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

hello Majda
i have a cr10s and i used cura 3.3.1 and settings are temp 210 build plate 60 layers height.2mm and infill 100% i always seem to have an issue when i do .2mm aka 200um is there a setting that I'm missing all other settings default in cura
does anyone have any suggestions thanks for the upload its a great test now just need to figure out the problem i feel I'm close
Randy

Hey friend!

Sorry for slow response, stressful school days here... (remember that you are talking to 9th grader :D)

Don't worry, it seems pretty good to me.

If you want any advantage in Cura settings, send me here (or on my email) your full settings!

Also check your nozzle diameter, tighten your belts, stringing test pillars looks bit distorted.. If you are using like 0.4 nozzle always use only multiply of that number on LH, so for instance don't use 1mm layer height on 0.4, use 0.8 or 1.2 LH instead.. this may help you! Also if you are printing PLA, 210 can be quite lot, for perfect overhangs I print 190 degrees.

Hope this helps :-)!

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

ok thanks for responding i attached my settings i did change a few things due to i was doing a different print i know there a few things I'm doing wrong in the settings but can't figure it out so maybe you can help i'm using pla+ so it tells me to run the temp higher so i do
thanks for all your help i did not see your email so i put file here
Randy

Hey friend, couldn't you do screenshots of your settings? I don't have opportunity now to load Cura settings + I don't want to mess up my current ones, haha!

Thanks,
Marián Trpkoš.

Hmmm...

I am Sorry man, but I don’t see anything un-usual... maybe try downloading some profiles online and start from scratch.. also replace your nozzle if it’s bit old, I’ve Printed 2 rolls of pla on mine and it went from 0.4 to 0.6....

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

ok cool i will look into that thanks for looking
Randy

No problem man!

Marián Trpkoš.

well i think you are right i took out the nozzle and the hole size was bigger so i just put in a new nozzle and i will see how that goes thanks again Randy

Yeah, that should help you...
These cheap chineese nozzles get destroyed after 2 or more rolls of PLA......... :C
But well, what else get, right?

I am curious to try stainless stell nozzle, bcs it seems more tough...

Hope that helped you a bit :-)

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Comments deleted.

Hi majda,
Great design. I'm gonna test this on my ZMorph to see how well it's gonna turn out.
Does it matter for this particular design if you print with abs or pla?
Cheers

Hey Jorim!

You can try any filament you want.. PLA, ABS, PETG, PET, PLYWOOD, TPU,... depends on your printer abilities... it doesn't actually make any difference, this piece of design was designed for solid materials like PLA and ABS....

After all I'd suggest you to print with PLA, because it's lot easier, you'll get better overhangs because you can turn on cooling fan, you won't see any warp issues and so on... but if you want a challenge, go for ABS :D...

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

You got a point on the overhangs (and bridging too btw). I've got to play with multiple processes on this one in s3d. I'll post a picture when it's done :)

Great!
Yeah, I forgot to mention bridging, that's second thing... :D

Are you willing to print ABS or PLA?

Don't forget to upload it into make section then, I'd make me really happy! :D

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

I've got ABS loaded in it anyway, so yeah sure :) Although my settings probably doesn't apply for anyone else I'll put all the processes and other settings in it.

Glad to hear!

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš :-).

Hello Majda, thank you very much for the model. The print came out nice, all sizes were spot on. But I must tune some settings on my Prusa I3 MK3, for me it looks like mayor high temp, slight over extrusion, and minimal retraction Problems. Maybe also printed to fast printed with 200mm/s -> Infill and 45mm/s -> Perimeters (standard setting for 0.2mm).

Man!

200mm/s IS TOOOOO LOT :O!!!! Change it to like 60-80mm/s, that will improve your print a looooot!

Also tune your printer temperature, check PIDs, possibly run PID autotune :-).

Hope this helps!

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Thanks for your quick response, PIDs are checkt and tuned must be the temperature or a to tiny Z offset to the buildpate (looks sometimes like n Ironing effect. Just to note 200mm/s only for the infill and the printer handles this without a Problem. (was one of the selling points for the mk3, if I remember it right.)The rest: Perimeter, Top- and Bottom- layers, bridgingmoves, etc. Range from 25 to 55mm/s. (Those are the native/recommended settings for 0.2mm layer height from prusa labs. And I didn't want to print in 0.1 or even 0.05mm this would have taken centuries.)

Best wishes,
BetaX

Hey friend! I always try to response asap :-).

I know that it’s just inner infill, but 200mm/s is too lot even for Prusa machine, it totally ruins your frame,... marlin FW doesn’t even allow 200mm/s, max is like 100mm/s i think!

Trust me and try 60-80mm/s, you’ll see if it’s better or not :-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Sorry the Post 2 Days ago autodistructed itself ;-P now there is the full post. I have now tweekt some settings and printed a Temp tower again.
Result: increased the Temp. to 220 First layer/ 215 the rest, Z-Offset from -0.514mm to -0.480mm (was the biggest Problem, maybe a little more like -0.470mm),calculated a new extrusion factor (was 1mm off), tweaked some cooling settings and changed the infill movement speed to 80 no real improvements, (done a little research: the Slicer runs on Autospeed with 200mm/s its nearly never reach this value and sets itself to the optimal speed for every move, damn smart this little beast. Most the time it runs around 60-90 mm/s for infill in automode, exception very long distences. So no further Problems in this area)
Thanks for your Help.

Sincerely,
BetaX

Glad to hear some improvement!

I am hardcore Mac user, and I primary use my 4K MacBook so I don't use Slic3r, because it simply hasn't got a 4K support... so I don't know how it works, but until it runs your printer really fast on 200mm/s, it's okay. It sounds great that Slic3r can adjust speed during infill distance!

Thanks for response :-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

IF YOU HAVE A 3D PRINTER YOU NEED TO JOIN! WE ARE HAVING 2 EVENT 1 MAKE AN AMAZING PRINT THEN POST A PIC SO OUR JUDGES CAN CHOSE THE BEST (prizes are available)Number 2 post a print you made!!! ON BOTH YOU WILL GET A SPECIAL ROLE!! WE NEED ADMINS also We are 100% family friendly

Where is the event?

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

And idk if you joined but if you did I would love to know your discord name

If you joined it’s in the event channel here is the link if you did not get it here it is https://discord.gg/K7NSVgF

I haven't joined yet because I don't even have discord..

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Sry confused bc you said where is the event

No problem :-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Hi,
Majda

This it my first print!
What do you think?

Thanks,
Andrei

Yes there is to high temp and over extrusion

Not that bad!

It is looking pretty good! I really like it, but there is still so much to do...

Find some online youtube video tutorials to calibrate printer, extruder, temperature, pids and other things!

Hope this helps :-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Hello Majda, thank you very much for the excellent model. I asked to a lot of people but couldn't get an answer yet: I printed this test, everything came out perfect, only little overhang on 75-80 degrees no strings at all, bridges are perfect, but I can not read the letters on the surface, attaching the picture, do you have any suggestion? I know that is not your business but I couldn't get answer from anyone, I am just trying my luck. Regards

Hey Rivendare!

It always makes me really happy when someone makes really positive comment like you!

Your printout looks really good, i think that you can fix that letter problem by enabling “thin walls” in your slicer! And if this doesn’t help, only thing I’d suggest you to try is smaller nozzle or change slicer.

Hope this helps!
PS: Sorry for late reply, I’ve got accepted on one school so I had to celebrate it! ;-)

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš

Thank you for your input Majda. I tried with the thin walls, nothing changed, I will try with a smaller nozzle.
Congrats on your new school!

Hey Rivendare!

Thanks! In your place I’d also try different slicer, then try smaller nozzle :-).

Don’t be sad that you can’t print that text, it’s really thin and most of people can’t print it, it’s known issue...

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

I dont understand what is the support test for ??

Hey friend!

The support test should test your printer abilities to print basic support pattern, it has really thin walls so it's not that easy to print, some slicers may totally dismiss it! This is reason why added it as well!

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Seems like the "print thin walls" setting in slicers help this model a lot. Will print in a few days once my distortion problems are sorted out. Great model!

Hmmm yeah!

Print thin walls may help with text issue!

I am happy that you like my model :-)!
Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Hi just printed your test and realized I have some adjustments to make. Any advice on how to improve would be appreciated :)

First, do you have a fan on the extruder, cooling it when it leaves your nozzle? plus the temperature looks way too high. Find a temperature tower or create yourself a simple tower yourself and after slicing it edit the g-code so the printer can automate the change in temp at set increments, find a good temp for the filament your using. Start there as that will greatly improve your prints then start dialing in your other settings like print speed.

Hey NevadaViper!!

I really like your 3D printout, however yes, there are some issues. First of all I'd try to calibrate entire printer including extruder, then 100% slow the printing process down a lot. Also try to decrease the temperature a bit.

Hope this helps! :-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

What seems to be the problem here ? every measurement fits , stopped the overhang as i wasn't worried about that , should I ?
I have seen in other prints to that my printer (Tevo Tornado) is struggling with text

I think it looks great tho!

Lot of folks are having text issue, it’s hard to fix, only thing you can try is to use different slicer, lower extrusion rate (I’d recommend you this one because your printout is bit underextruded already) or simply switch to thinner nozzle!

Hope this helps, I have to say that Tevo Tornado is great printer!

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

No problem!

You can also try enabling thin walls in your slicer!

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš :-).

First of all, very nice job Marián!
I have a couple of doubts about the test itself: what´s the difference between the two overhang arches? and, what does exactly test the support test?

Hey Marguesbmw!

I am really happy that you like my design!

These two arches are there for testing 2 types of angles, as you can see, one is smaller and goes by 15 degrees all up to the 75 degrees, next one is more precise and goes from 10 to 80 degrees. Angles added by 15 degrees are most common, that's why I put it there and on the second arch you can see if your printer can perform even better and go all the way up to the 80 degrees!

Also, the support test should test your printer abilities to print basic support pattern, it has really thin walls so it's not that easy to print, some slicers may totally dismiss! This is reason why added it as well!

Yours sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

understood! thanks a lot for your answer and, of course, for your model. I´ll try to post a picture once printed.

No problem!

If you have any other questions, feel free to abuse me.

I’ really appreciate if you upload the make!

Your sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

funny my belts are not tight but i cant tighten them any more :(

Why can't you tighten them more?
Explain please......

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

I try but I guess I’m not strong enough I’m going to get a belt tensioner

Yeah! Print belt tensioner, it's best thing you can do for your belts!

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Problem it is so bad it won’t print circles so the screws will not fit :( but I have a role of belt and I’m going to put new on

Put some laundry peg spring to your belts, It will tighten them bit. Remember to put it next to the extruder, so they won't mess into the extruder motor!

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

can you send me an amozon link to this idk what spring you are talking about?

You can't buy it anywhere, it's simply spring from clothes pin! haha!

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

But you can buy them :)

https://e3d-online.com/gt2-belt-tensioning-spring

There's also tons of cheaper ones on Amazon and eBay as well

Yeah that too, but I'd suggest you to get belt tensioners still...

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

hi i love the looks of this print very nice but i have a question... instead of printing with .2 mm layer thickness i found that my printer prints best at .15 mm or should i stick with your recommended print settings

Hey Chris!

Use settings that fits you best, so keep printing at .15mm or even .1mm!
Remember - when it works, you are probably on a good way! :D

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

hello, the ones that you have nozzle of 0,4 that you use configuration in simplify so that it removes the letters of the base since the tests I have not obtained that they go out well?

Hey! With 0.4mm nozzle you should be able to print these letters, but I can make without-letter one, if you need :-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

hello, I mean how to get the letters of the base more sharp with nozzle of 0.4 this is my impression:
speed 60mm, layer 0.2, retraction 1, vel retraci 45, pla, 197º, infill 100%

Hmmm... in your place, I'd not worry, most of people aren't even able to print the text at all, but..

try to calibrate your printer (if you have RepRap Marlin one), calibrate your extruder
try changing slicer

Hope this helps! In your place I'd calibrate the entire printer first!

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš

if you want to remove the letters use a cad program

What is the use for this cause im new to 3d printing?

Hey!

It simply tests your abilities of your printer!

Sincerely,
Marián :-).

its to test your printer try a few tests before this one like this one https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865 and this one https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2402242 and then if you have masted those print this one

XYZ 20mm Calibration Cube
PLA Temperature Calibration Tower
by Cidaero

Yeah!

My test is more post-tune like!

Marián.

okay mine came out with texts that i cant read they look so bad and the string test did not have strings but were not square im printing with pla anet a8 temp 190c im using cura 3.2.1 and 30mm sec

update: i think it was bc my cooling fan went out

Cool! Hope it works! Tell me how it printed then! I've got my brand new Anet A8 working today, it's awesome piece of tech!

Sincerely,
Marián :-).

great! what filament do you use? mine is crazy bc it prints at 170c to 180c and its pla so i need more filament from a better brand

my anet a8 almost set its self on fire and is not printing well anymore so this will not happen to you i want to tell you you should cut off the crimps of the psu and replace them with high heat crimps lucky for me i have two anet a8 GOOD LUCK!

Hey!

I am already using better PSU because stock one came broken :(.

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

i think im going to make a 3d printing server on discord when i do would you like to be an admin?

I don't really use discord at all, but thanks!

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš :-).

when you do that could you send me a link? i would love to look at it and be a part of it

ok i have a computer server that im trying to get off the ground right now
but i might make it some time next week

Cool!

Wish you luck of setting up ur discord server!

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

No problem! Tell me your results then :-).

Marián.

hey i did the big one and it was warping on the edges any way to fix this?

If printings ABS, try increasing bed temperature, or simply don't print with ABS!

Sincerely,
Marián :-).

I wanted to print this then i seen it takes 4hrs+ its just way to long for a test print. I would print this only as a ultimate test print after doing all other small bench tests first so i have something i know will come out very impressive.

Is it possible to make the overhang angles different rather than doubling up?
Make it not as thick or as wide in the overhang maybe to help reduce print times?

This is made to test if your printer is OK AFTER TUNING, so don't print this as a first piece on your brand new printer... haha!

Sincerely,
Marián :-).

Comments deleted.

The stringing on my was good but any help on the texture that are showing up never printed with this filament Hatchbox before seen others do 203/60mm with it i have a CR10s
https://imgur.com/a/kphOB

it can be 3 MAIN things over extrution or under OR it can be the filament (might want a different brand)

I can also be a extruder calibration or tons of different things! But yeah, you are right, things you wrote he/she should check out first!

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš :-).

Hey!

Your printout doesn’t looks bad, please put it in the “made” section!

I could help you with a bad texture, but I’d need a more detailed photo, you photo isn’t best tho...

Thank for commenting!

Best regards,
Marián :-)!

I put 2 more up on I made it so should it be smooth or is the hashing normal across the flat parts looks like in your model it should be smooth.

Cool!

Thanks for commenting and feedback!

Best regards,
Marián :-).

The 80 degrees overhang isn't actually testing anything as it's not long enough, the overhang will still be at 70 degrees at the base when sliced

Do you have "Make Overhang Printable" checked? Cura will change angles of things to fix strong overhangs if this is enabled...

I have never used Cura so far because my 3D printer is bfb type, but I am almost sure that "Make Model Printable" should be UNCHECKED!

My model should be printable in state I 3D designed it, so it needs no external changes so far!

Hope this helps,
Marián :-)

Correct, I was suggesting that maybe that's why Machine4000 didn't notice a difference in degrees....

Yeah well...

Hope It works now!

Don’t forget to upload results in “made” section then!

Best regards,
Marián :-).

Hey!

I've already checked that in the solid works, and they overhang tests are both same, there is like 0,1mm length difference of my previous model (All In One 3D printer test) so it should be without problems!

Marián :-).

Hmm... weird to hear....

The overhang test should be same as on my previous model (All In One 3D printer test) there are lot of makes and no-one experienced this issue yet. I don't have this problem either, here is screenshot of my sliced model : https://imgur.com/a/Zm9yv

I am not sure, but this could be problem in your slicer settings, but I'll check it in the Solidworks later - for sure!

Otherwise I hope that you like model!

Best regards,
Marián :-)!

Do you have any advice for improving the text? Everything else worked great. Bridging was perfect, overhang only started suffering at 60 degrees.

Hey, may I ask.... were you able to figure out your text issue? Mine is even worse than yours.

Hope you can fix it soon! It should be printable, because I made it as a hole in a body, not extrusion from the body!

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš :-).

No, not really. I printed a new one with a lower resolution which is in the made section which looks a bit less blobby, i think the original one was a bit overextruded. I do have a new filament though so not sure what improved it. Still need to figure out the gaps though, but as majda107 said, the simplify3d print troubleshooter is a good resource.

Yeah,

Unfortunately I can’t use S3P, because I have “locked” type of BFB printer CubePro DUO.

I wanna see your results, I am not able to print this thing at all because my printer is “bad”....

Best regards,
Marián :-).

Hmm seems weird to me.... which slicer are you using?

This may help you :
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#gaps-in-thin-walls

You may try to decrease extrusion width!

Best regards,
Marián :-)!

Hmmm.... you in ur place I would try to decrease the extrusion rate, decrease the printing speed and max-out the resolution!

Overhang probably started suffering because of overexttrusion or high temperature....

Thanks for commenting, don’t forget to post ur make to the “made” section!

Best regards,
Marián!