This is a Mini CoreXY 3D printer designed to be high end, relatively cheap, and use a bunch of spare parts I had laying around. This printer features...
-- A compact, sturdy, and portable design
-- CoreXY kinematics
-- Sensorless homing
-- Dual Z axis' (levels the X axis)
-- BLTouch leveling probe
-- v6 Hotend
-- Dual fan part cooling
For the electronics and firmware, I decided to go with...
-- Duet 2 Wifi 32 Bit Controller
-- 7" Paneldue Touchscreen
-- 24v Power supply
-- Custom portable electronics enclosure
Some other things featured my build that aren't specific to this design are...
-- Bondtech extruder
-- 0.9 Deg X & Y Nema 17 stepper motors
After being super busy and time crunched for the past year, this printer is almost done! I have finished building and wiring the printer, the last step is to fine tune the firmware configuration! I will post updates as they come.
The Mini CoreXY Design
All parts on the printer, with the exception of the fan shroud and the spool holder, were designed by me in AutoCAD 2018. As stated this printer was designed to be high end, relatively cheap, and use a bunch of spare parts I had laying around.
The Electronics Enclosure
The electronics enclosure was designed by me in Solidworks 2017/2018. It is made out of laser cut 1/4" acrylic w/NinjaFlex feet and is meant to house all electronics and most wiring. I wanted to make all of the wiring organized, neat and proper, so all of the connections have proper pin and terminal connectors. The electronics enclosure features...
-- Portable design
-- 48 Pin main connector
-- Male socket plug
-- Main switch
-- 4x Case fans
The 4x Case fans are actually controlled PWM by the temperature of the CPU and all of the stepper motor drivers. There are two huge 48 pin connectors on the enclosure, only one of which is currently being used. I did this so the electronics can easily be disconnected to make the electronics and printer more portable.
Printer is done being built and wired! I am currently working on configuring marlin. Had a few minor issues with the printer. I put on the printer head backwards, the electronics enclosure isn't big enough for the wiring, and one of the acrylic pieces on the enclosure cracked. Other than that the printer is looking great!
Took a little break from 3D printing as I became extremely busy since my last post. I am still very busy but am slowly working on this printer. The biggest struggle I've been having is getting the SPI to work for the tmc2130s. Apparently the hardware SPI can't be shared with the LCD and drivers so I am currently messing with using software SPI. I also had some issues with wiring most of which are fixed. As of right now I still need to fix the SPI and I need to replace the bowden extruder, as the cheap e3d titan rip off I got from amazon broke already (pretty easily too). Will post any further updates.
Got a Bondtech extruder, and some capricorn tubing the other day to fix the cheap e3d titan knockoff. The only thing left to do is get the SPI working and then comfigure the printer! I am also likely going to replace the lokbuild sticker with pei in the near future. Will post more updates as they come.
Finished all of the wiring! I have been slowly working on this printer, switching electronics from RADDS to the Duet 2 Wifi, making a new electronics enclosure, properly doing all the wiring, setting up the firmware, etc. The printer is now in its final stage; All that is left is to fine tune the firmware configuration. I also updated this whole page as a lot has changed since I last updated it. Pictures shown of the build are current. BOM is not updated, will do so in the near future hopefully. All files for the electronics enclosure have also been added. Will post more updates as they come.
Posted a video above, of the printer running through a 1000mm/s speed test, which it seemed to handle just fine.
I am currently making a number of design changes to the 3D printed parts. Pretty much every printed part is going to change, but almost all of the hardware and the basic design will remain the same. I ran into a few issues while testing the printer. For one, the cheap v6 hotend that I installed, had the thermistor exposed causing the temperature reading to plumit as soon as the fans turned on. I decided to then upgrade to a genuine E3D Volcano, also to be able to print much faster. I have the new Volcano, but the current hotend mount doesnt fit properly so that needs to be changed. A number of the brackets are also cracked as they are too thin so those are being redesigned as well. After already killing one of the cheap limit switches on the Z axis, I decided to make the Z axis use sensorless homing as well. In doing so, I realized the upper Z motor brackets would bend up when the bed homed. So i redesigned the upper and lower Z axis parts to be much stronger and to be able to lock the smooth rods in place with screws, also so they can easily be removed. The new Z axis parts work perfectly and you can see them in the video. I will post those parts soon along with the other changes currently in the works.
(1/21/2019) Preview of the rebuild so far. All that is left is to finish designing the hotend mount, print it out and install it.
All parts were either printed in ColorFabb XT, ColorFabb NGEN, Ultimaker CPE, PCTG, or Ninjaflex (for the feet only), with 90% infill.