A stand for the wonderful TS100 soldering iron, with a place for a copper wire tip cleaner, a spool of solder and a small tray for tweezers and a flux pen.
Here are all the different things that I use in this stand:
There shouldn't be any need for supports or a raft if your printer is dialed in well and you're not printing in ABS :)
- 1x Base print
- 2x Axle print
- Small piece of copper sheet to support the hot end of the iron (optional, since the part we need to support doesn't really get that hot, but you'll need to redesign the support column)
- 2x Ball bearing - 13mm OD, 4mm ID, 5mm Depth (optional, but you'll need to modify the axle parts)
- 2x Cylinder magnet - 2mm Height, 12mm Diameter (optional)
- 2 small pieces of PTFE Bowden tube (optional)
Rough drawing of the copper sheet cutout before bending
Making the copper support
Cut out a shape similar to the one in the image above out of the copper sheet. Bend along the dashed lines to wrap around the short support post. It will need to be adjusted for fit with both the base and the soldering iron itself, bend and cut until you have something good.
- Put the two axle halves back-to-back and push the bearing on the ends. This should hold the axle together, no need for glue.
- Place a solder roll on the axle and the axle onto its two supports.
- Put two pieces of the PTFE Bowden tube into the solder guide. If you want, make one into a friction clamp, to keep the end of the solder wire in place. Pull the solder through the guide.
- Place the copper support piece (from the previous step) onto its post
- Place the two magnets into their holes under where the tip cleaner goes. They should be a friction fit, but you can also glue them in. Place the tip cleaner on the magnets.
- Place your TS100 in your new soldering stand
Bonus step: Cable extension
This has little to do with the stand itself, but in the photos, you can see I use wire extension from the laptop power brick that I use with my TS100. The extension is specifically made from silicone-insulated stranded wire, which makes it super soft and comfortable to work with. It never gets in the way and even if it does, the insulation can't be harmed by the heat of the iron.
I especially recommend this if your PSU has a right angle connector because having that right at the iron is PITA.