I see alot of E3D V6 adapters for Tronxy but none of them had a part cooling fan. So I made one using Catia. I made it for my chinese replica V6. I designed 3 versions of it and this one has been my workhorse. I only release it now because I'm confident that it'll work for you if proprely mounted. The one on my printer right now has over 200hrs of printing and there's no sign of heat distorsion whatsoever.
The mount requires 4XM3 nuts and screws for the clamp and the fan. I highly suggest adding spacers.
My first version had slots to drop in the nuts and screw but the PLA kept cracking with the pressure. So this version you have to press in two nuts. for the back (see picture).
The mounting the holes are for M4 screws of the radial fan, but I suggest using some M3 to give you wiggle room.
I've done multiple iterations of the duct and the one present is the one I found the most effective. Knowing that I worked with a CAD of the full assembly I've allowed myself only a 1mm gap in the Z axis between the nozzle tip and the duct (Subject to the hotend you have if a replica.) It simply is press fitted in the fan, don't need to glue it.
My stock fan had a broken wire so I replaced it with a blower to have better cooling and drilled some holes in the plastic clip. I used the E3D V6 Blower Fan adapter by matt448 for that purpose (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1600018).
I have to warn that my adapter shifts forward the hot end by about 5mm forward (see picture). So for that purpose I've designed a endstop bracket du to the lack of time I have because of school. By experience you might have to trim some tensionners if you want the full 150mm in th Y axis. So far this didn't cause me anyproblems.
I used an exact CAD model of a E3D V6 with a tigh fit tolerances. But you might need to file a little bit to be able to insert it.
-Shift the hotend backward to eliminate the 5mm shift.
-I might want to add a part to attach a cable chain for my next update.
-Move the radial fan bracket higher to give more flexibility for the cooling duct.
-Make a version for a normal fan instead of a blower fan. Blower fans a good for high air volume and normal radial fans can build up pressure better. So the cooling duct could be both sides.
I made it using 1mm walls (all sides) so it can withstand the screws.
My bed is a piece of glass and I can control well my warping. I didn't use a raft, but it can be usefull for some.
I made it with PLA since I print almost only that with my printer, but a higher temp plastic could be nice if you need to print at higher temps.
You need to press fit two M3 nuts in the back of the mount to attach the clamp.
You might need to file the clamp area, some printers might not have the precision to do it within the design tolerances.
I've noticed I uploaded my low quality version of the STL file. I've made the change for the parts.