Parking magnetic dual extruder E3D V6 by HalenTech

by halentech Mar 5, 2018
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A great job is exactly what I was looking for. I'll just have to create a remix to fit my mgn12. Have you tried a direct solution?

Hi. I can see the end. Thank you.
How do I set the distance to Nozzle 1, Nozzle 2?
Thank you for sharing the good way> ^^

I am making
Firmware sharing is required

Hello, firmware is standard repetier firmware 1.0 as described. Only modification which I done was to disable back move on X axis during X home process. Also I did modification of standard repetier firmware to fits Zonestar 3D printer:

  • type of thermal sensors and its calibration
  • correct and check X, Y Z move if it need inversion or not. If I remember I must do inversion of one axis.

Those things has all 3D printer types / marks different, so If you do not have sources of your current 3D firmware, you can use universal standard Repetier firmware, but must do some modification to fit your current printer.

Hey, I was wondering if have ever tested the repeatability of the electromagnets? What kind of accuracy are you able to achieve?

No electromagnets, only permanent magnets. I started to built electromagnetic version, but during process I changed my mind and ask myself: Why it cannot work only with bare permanets magnets? So there is result. I already working with this printer almost one year and without problems at all.

That's awesome, love the design. I was wondering how you are able to drop off one nozzle without the electromagnet? It seems infeasible by just using neodymium magnets.

It is simple solution. You must understand, that center movable part is only part connected to motor through belts. So if I have connected left extruder and move whole element to the right end, then left extruder will be disconnected and right will be connected. There is steel rod in extruder, which are longer and thus only one extruder can be connected to central part. It is pure mechanical solution.

stop spamming. you posted this exact question on the original. if you read what halentech has done, there are no electromagnets in this remix..

This looks really good! What is your z rod spacing for this? I started printing parts for a z modification which use a 17mm distance between the support rod and the screw. (edit) Nice, it's 17mm as well.

Also, I couldn't figure out what the nut holder on the back of the motor mount is for. Help me out? Your design is the only one I've seen with that arm on it.

Finally, I think the design of this belt tensioning system from this thing is a good addition. Would there be a way to adapt it to your design?

I've remixed the carrier to include a channel down the middle for a 5015 radial fan for print cooling. It's very rough but worth looking at. You're welcome to include it with your files as an option.

Smooth X-axis for Prusa i3 with Leadscrews

Hello reply late, but do you have still some questions?

Why does your printer randomly rapid to the corners all the time? It just streaks your print as it drags the nozzle across it

Hello, I left "avoid crossing perimeters" turned on, so this did this strange movements. I turned it off in next prints. In slic3r this function does not work properly if you are using more then one extruder.

hello i make the fisrt project with electromagnet but i have some problems with electromagnets beause warm to much and psu warm to,after that i make your own with only magnets and 2 screw very smart but i have one problem in simplify3d how i put the offset????

Hello, offsets are stored in eprom parameters of printer board. It can be changed during fw compilation or directly in eprom printer configuration - for example in slic3r eprom menu.

Second thing is that you must modify script for tool change as my working example is for Slic3r. Anyway, I will try to prepare tool change script for Simplify3D.

i use marlin and i put offset in 55.00mm but nothing change.....i change it and simplify3d the same something wrong i do in gcode...

Nice trick ! Simple with magnets ^^ I like IT ;) GoodJob

Looks really cool during the swap. But I do not understand why go such a long route (its a complex build for sure) and what exactly the problem was. I have dual extruder printer for over 5 years and never had a single problem with dual prints. What exactly were you trying to solve with this solution?

I heard of people saying that dual extrusion is "tricky" and problematic, but I never understood what exactly. Maybe it's just a matter of having printer tuned properly?

I also see this approach logical for weight reduction, well, somewhat. But if you are on bowden setup (which you are), the weight of magnets etc will "outweigh" the benefits of this. And also reducing weight won't make sense on the type of printer that you have (moving platform is a bottleneck there), so I am questioned. Really curious, please shed some light on this for me :)

I had the double bowden system. The problems were two.

1) a problem with the oozing - the filament go out of the second nozzle. The retraction solution did not help, just as time went off again from the nozzle. Lowering the temperature of the nozzle was nonsense, it takes so long to cool for -10°C. So, the printing will normally take 20 minutes, lasting 2 hours.

  1. Problem of exact height adjustment of both nozzles.

Now I can control the height of each nozzle programmatically, so it does not matter mechanically when each is high. Even now, when I have the same prints of the hotends holders, the right one is about. 02-0,3mm lower than left.

I totally get rid of the oozing and I still do not have the plates installed where the hotends will park. Nozzles will youch the metal or silicone, causing the nozzle to clog and drop nothing from it. It then moves ready for printing over the product and starts printing without oozing.

Hey can you please advise how you are adjusting the nozzle height in program? Any suggestion on how this can be done in Marlin?

Ah okay, thanks for explanation. That makes sense. I do not have ozzing on my flashforge, but I use standard 0.4mm nozzles. I can see oozing happening easy on bigger nozzles. I am actually researching a more powerful option for heating element for the hotend now, that would make heating and cooling much faster.

As for the leveling, I did have the problem initially, but then I tuned it and I no longer had it for years. What I did for fine tuning that is I took a fine grit sand paper, leveled the bed completely using that slightly lower nozzle, then adjusted a hight so sandpaper goes very easily under upper nozzle and simply sanded the lower nozzle until they are dead even, which in that case was very lottle distance, maybe 30-40 micron or so. This doesn't damage the nozzle and solves the problem completely. 3Dpassion that I work with is actually designing a hotend now which will not even need that sanding at all, dual setup will be very easy. You can follow us in instagram if you are curious :) @3D.passion


Awesome! Glad to see that it worked out!

Never could quite get around to finishing my version. It's very cool to see a working one on a printer.

Thank you for your idea! I firstly try to build electromagnetic version, almost finished, but I found your project. So I reconfigure it all and this is result.

Nice job ! Do you have the link about your Z probe ? (is it capacitive ? and how is you bed to work with ? )

Thanks for your informations

Added to description:
1x inductive sensor PL-08N
I got inductive sensor with Zonestar printer. On sensor is: TRZ-PL-08N, voltage 4-30V, sensing distance <=8mm

this should be same: