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Parametric Can Dispenser

by FourOhFour, published

Parametric Can Dispenser by FourOhFour Mar 8, 2018
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Thing Statistics

8982Views 549Downloads Found in Kitchen & Dining

Summary

Simple customizable can dispenser to put in your fridge. The included STLs are for US 355 mL (12 fl oz) cans in a dispenser 341mm deep and 160mm high. Want something else? Go grab OpenSCAD (I recommend a development snapshot, it has a customizer UI you can turn on in the prefs) or see if Thingiverse's customizer is working today. Height is adjusted manually so you can have dispensers for different sized cans next to each other and still have a flat top.

Print Settings

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

.20

Infill:

15%


Notes:

This one's a bit complicated... if your print bed is large enough (or fridge small enough, I suppose) you can use the full side and top pieces. Otherwise, you'll need the half side and tops.

For the side pieces, print with zero top and bottom layers and 15% infill. The STLs give you the right side; mirror and print again for the left.

For the top piece, if you're using Slic3r double click on the object, click load modifier, and select the matching modifier STL. Then, highlight the modifier in the list and click the + under object settings. Select layers -> bottom solid layers and set it to zero. Do the same for layers -> top solid layers. When you slice, this'll give you a top piece that is solid where you glue it to the sides but mesh in the center for airflow.

Infill pattern to taste... I used 15% triangles for the sides and 20% grid for the top for the print speed, but I think I'd do honeycomb all around for the next one I print.

Post-Printing

The pieces need to be glued together. I used standard superglue.

If you're using the half side pieces, glue them together in the middle. Then, glue the bottom supports on to the bottom. Once that's dried, glue the top on and you're done.

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Can you show how everything goes together? I'm confused where the supports go, thanks!

The supports go on the bottom and hold the two halves apart. I probably should have named them something else.

Awesome thank you, pictures help a bunch! I kinda realized after I posted the comment that it's probably for the bottom. Nothing needed to cover the back?

I'm debating what to do with the top since I don't use Slic3r and can't add the modifier. All I have access to right now is Cura, so it either has to be like the sides with no solids or completely solid.

Nothing is needed for the back, the track in the sides keeps the cans in.

I just played around with Cura some, and it looks like you can use the modifiers! Add both the modifier and the half top to the plater. Select the modifier model, then click the "per model settings" button, it's the bottom icon on the left. Change the model type to "modify settings for overlap with other models". Click select settings, check "Top/Bottom Thickness" under "Shell" and click close. Then change top/bottom thickness to 0. Move the modifier model so it's centered overlapping the half top model. If you then hit prepare and, at least in the layer view, it looks like it's doing the right thing.

Yeah I saw that but I didn't want to manage to screw it up somehow by slightly moving it. I changed the design a little and remixed it to have holes for airflow on the top. Should be linked to this now :]

Looks good. Probably what I should have done in the first place... but I'm too lazy to figure out how to do it in a way that doesn't make the printer make lots of tiny moves and to impatient to wait for it to make those moves.

Thanks. No matter what there will be micro movements, even with your iteration because of the X. It does a line \ first then when it does the other line / it stops in between where it crosses because the layer will already be filled. I guess if connected the inner circles instead of doing independent circles, it wouldn't require the micro movements. Hah but I'm happy with the circles :].

I'm halfway done with the entire print, my girlfriend is excited for me to actually make this so my soda cans aren't all over the fridge.

Hello ! How long does the full impression take?

The front half sides are about 4 hours each. The rears are about 4h45 each. Half a top is 1h20 and half a top plus the bottom support is 2 hours. Total printing time on my Prusa i3 mk3 was about 21 hours.

Thank you so much for the info! I have the some printer

I don't have any of those cans to measure, but you should be able to use the customizer (hit "Open in Customizer" under Thing Apps) to do that. If customizer's broken, download the current development build of OpenSCAD from http://www.openscad.org/downloads.html (near the bottom of the page). Open can_dispenser.scad in OpenSCAD. Then, in OpenSCAD's prefs window, turn on the "customizer" feature, and from the view menu turn off "hide customizer".

In OpenSCAD's customizer, under Can Dimensions, you'll want to edit the can diameter (if different from 12 fl oz cans) and can height. Under Dispenser Dimensions, you might need to edit height (if these cans have a larger diameter). Then, for each of the parts you need (probably front half, rear half, half top, supports, and the stl for slic3r to make the mesh half top, select the part under part, click render (looks like a cube with an hourglass) and export STL (looks like a file icon with STL, or find it in the File menu).

Yes!! I want too this for a 473cc beers cans! impatient !!!

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