by bstott, published

YARB by bstott Aug 8, 2012
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YARB by bstott is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license.

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Yet Another Ramps Box.

This is a derivative of two people's boxes:

jman's -


oTTo's - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21389

My RAMPS 1.4 board came from a vendor who had some different connectors. So, in making a box to fit my setup I added some RepRap features to show the World that what is hidden inside IS COOL!

My first print is kinda junky (embarrassing) but, I'm too anxious to show it off. I've made adjustments since my first print for the 50mm fan bolts to be recessed and the small RepRap vent openings should be fine but, printable.

The design was done with Sketchup.

9/23/2012 - Wired up the new Rostock and the YARB can hold all the wiring for one extruder w/hot build platform and room to spare. Sort of....


Print and use. Or download the Sketchup files and make your own revisions.

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I edited the box because I don't have a heated print bed and it kept curling too much. I added a solid 0.4mm thick face to the downward facing side, and am about to try printing it again. Also using a large brim on my model. Printing with the fist layer at 0.4mm makes it easy to remove the added layer and show the holes. I had to get rid of the decorative thing of course but oh well. If anyone wants a copy of the STL for this I can upload it or you can just email me at amadon.faul@hotmail.com

Fan - 3 methods: (1) direct connect to spare power from PSU (On all the time machine is on.)., (2) Same as (1) with the addition of a manual switch to turn on and off at your discretion. (3) Search eBay or 'Google It' for a Thermal Switch 12-24VDC, 30-120C and then proceed as in (1) with fan attached. This allows you to set your desired temperature for the automatic fan - 50C for me.

As a RepRap newbie I have yet to see this question answered in an obvious place, such as the RAMPS page on http://reprap.orgreprap.org… Where did you connect up the power to your electronics cooling fan? The build area fan is usually wired to D9, so it's not clear where to connect up a second fan on RAMPS (1.4). What was your personal solution?

Hi thinkyhead,

Since march you probably have found the answer to your question, but anyway :
D9 power will be driven by Repetier (or the software you use) at print time and only when needed. Alternatively there is on RAMPS 1.4 a connector for an all time on fan (the one I use for print head cooling).
See the image there : http://forums.reprap.org/addon.php?219,module=embed_images,url=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FKOjq6ri.jpg
The pins may not be present and need to be soldered (at least it was like this on my RAMPS).

Yes, those are the pins I used to connect my electronics cooling fan, with an inline resistor to slow and quiet the fan down. I haven't added a separate hot-end cooling fan yet. My hot-end 40mm fan has a custom duct to direct air onto the top of the nozzle and the top of the print, but that's not ideal for ABS, and dedicated hot-end cooling can be seen to really improve results. The connector can easily handle two small 12V fans, they would just run slightly slower. Hmm, now I just need to come up with a nice 30mm fan duct and quick-and-dirty heat-sink for my 15mm diameter hot-end, and it's go-time!

Does this support SDramps?

Not yet. Fire up Sketchup. You got a calling.... :-D

Revised Answer 8/26/2012

The design is to have wires route out the bottom box not the sliding cover/lid. This will allow easy removal of the sliding lid. I expect to route wiring through the rectangular opening above the USB opening. Your motor and other wires will be above the RAMPS board heater connections.

9/26/12 - Added a picture with my box wired. 4 steppers, two temps, 3 end stops, 2 LED lights, heated build platform. @Entropy85: you write - 20 steppers, 4 temps and 6 end stops! That won't fit on a RAMPS. Well, the 6 end stops will.

Will all of the wires fit through the back 2 slots on the top? Thats a lot of wires to get in there, 20 steppers, 4 temps, and 6 end stops. I don't see any other open area for them to enter the box at. I definitely like the idea thus far though.

lt;Revised Answer 8/26/2012

The design is to have wires route out the bottom box not the sliding cover/lid. This will allow easy removal of the sliding lid. I expect to route wiring through the rectangular opening above the USB opening. Your motor and other wires will be above the RAMPS board heater connections.

I still ha
ven't installed my box but, a quick motor plug in, wire routing and imagination looks like all should fit. :-) Unless you are dual extruder and lots of ???? ;)

Very pretty, and functional.

Not a combination you get by regularly...

Nice Job!