The initial design came from a file that I found on Thingiverse; however, I am unable to locate the thing in order to give proper recognition. I am posting my make as I would like others to also have the opportunity to create this amazing prop.
If anyone is able to tell me from whom the design is feel free to let me know and the proper recognition will be given.
The files provided caused some problems due to their sizing, so please note that I had to resize some of the parts in order to get the model to fit together appropriately. Also I found that some parts were missing in comparison to the prop shown in the film and as such I created my own parts to complete the model. Unfortunately I am unable to say by which factors I sized the model as I made it quite some time ago, feel free to experiment and create one for yourself. Enjoy!
UPDATE: 17 March 2018
Thanks to DocHaynes it has come under my attention that it is not clear on how to assemble the arc reactor. In an effort to resolve this I have added some more photos which show some aspects of the model more clearly as well as a diagram showing how to parts fit onto one another and the quantity of parts required. furthermore the following instructions can be followed:
Print all the respective parts (Please note that I had to scale some of the parts to work correctly, it was only a few, the diagram shows some of the dimensions of parts that I measured from my model which can be used as a baseline).
Part bp9 has 10 holes on its base through which machine screws are placed in order to secure the parts jp1 (x5) and jp2 (x5). Thus test fit some screws and enlarge the holes using a drill if required.
Fit part bp9 into the base of bp4 (The fit is quite snug and may require sanding or proper sizing before printing).
x5 jp1 and x5 jp2 parts are required. At the base of these parts use a hand drill to drill a hole through which the machine screw will fit such that they can be fastened to the base of part bp9. (the parts should be fastened in an alternating fashion [jp1, jp2, jp1, jp2, etc])
Place part bp3 on top of bp4, once again it should be a snug fit.
place part bp2 onto part bp3 (snug fit required, if not snug enough some glue may be used to stick parts together, I recommend Cyanoacrylate).
Cut out a piece of wire mesh roughly 22mm in diameter and stick it in the centre top of part bp2.
Place part dp2 into the top sunk in surface of part bp2 (some sanding of part dp2 may be required for the part to fit).
Glue part dp4 to the top of part dp2.
In part dp3 drill a 3mm hole into the ends of two of the three arms, and in the third drill two 1mm holes. (This is for the screws to be able to mount the part to those below it and to add film detail to the model). Place the part on top of part dp4 and fasten or glue (it may also be required to drill holes into part dp4 in order to fasten part dp3 to it).
Place the combining ring on the inside of the 5 tall parts named jp2 and place the 5 jp2 parts into the respective slots of the ring (This ring can be seen in the pictures as the top ring).
Place the clear ring (dimensions shown on the diagram for manufacturing if printing clear PLA does not suffice) on top of part bp 2. (When adding LED's I added 10 to the bottom of the clear ring by drilling 10 holes at equally spaced intervals).
Take the 10 dp1 parts and wind some copper wire around them in order to gain the appearance of armature. After this place the 10 parts over the clear ring at equally spaced intervals. Ensure that the LED falls between two consecutive dp1 parts and not below them, else the light will not shine through as effectively.
- Place part jp3 over the outside of the 5 jp1 and 5 jp2 parts (This ring can be seen as the bottom ring in pictures).
This concludes the build. Post process can be done according to your liking. I trust that this information will be useful to those wanting to build this model. Please feel free to leave me a comment if any further clarification is required.
In order to get the parts to properly fit together some sanding was required.
To get a smooth finish some of the parts were sanded using sand paper of varying grit.
The sanded parts were painted their respective colours using water based acrylic paints.
The opaque material through which the light shines was made from some pieces of cut up plastic.
11 blue LED's were used to create the right amount of lighting I wanted. 10 were used for the ring, and 1 for the centre. equi-spaced holes were drilled into the opaque plastic and the LED's placed into their holes. The LED's were wired in parallel to one another and this was wired to a battery pack which is concealed in the housing of the arc reactor. A small slide switch is used to turn the lights on and off and was placed at the bottom of the exposed wire.
the centre mesh was created from a piece of a metal sieve that I cut out. Strands of copper wire was used to create the armature around the ring.
All parts were either press fit together or using mechanical fasteners (machine screws, etc) No glue was used which allows me to take the model apart whenever the need arises.
As previously stated, most of the files were created by another designer which I was unable to locate; however, the parts that were missing was created by myself using SolidWorks and was created by making use of reference pictures found on the internet.