Cooling fan for Wanhao Duplicator 4

by Pirouzan Mar 27, 2014
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Cooling fans work fine for ABS, I use a battery operated 'clip on' fan. I have a Duplicator 4x so I am working on a solution whereby I can have the door closed. I find that without active cooling my prints come out the wrong size - only by the slightest amount but this means things like iPhone cases or anything where size match is critical come out to small. Also my duplicator build platform displays 10 degrees higher than it really is. I find setting the platform to 140 and using a fan I can print on to glass without a raft. I print at 230-240 and have been having very good results. Just thought I would share.

Thanks for your suggestion.
The issue with my printer solved.It was cause of the backlash on the Y axis.There are four screws on the right panel of the printer that holds the Y-Axis stepper motor.just loosen those screws,push the motor downside as far as you can and tighten them again.
Now i can print perfect circles and dual printing is also works like a charm.

I have a Wanhao Duplicator 4 too.
It's more a copy of the Makerbot Replicator Dual. ;)

Active coolings works for pla very well. But with abs I don't think you'll get good results. :)

You're right ;)
I saw some of your prints and they were awesome!
I think my printer is somehow out of calibration.When i print something circular the result is always oval and printing with abs is almost impossible for me cause the layers don't stick together and after printing a few layers they peel off.
Dual printing is a real mess cause the nozzles aren't aligned.i used nozzle calibration but nothing changed.
Any suggestion for a good calibration or any tips on how to make it work better?
Thanks in advance

Oval means your printer is out of calibration. You have to tight both belts on X and Y axis by unscrewing the 4 screws of every stepper, pushing really hard backward and screw again. Also if you find small gaps around your circles then you have to clean your nozzle. It took me 1 month to realize that!
Temperature of the hot bed on these printers are about 30-40 off! You have to set for 140C to get 90C on the glass.
By the way, i can't print perfect bridges too with ABS. I have tries a fan but it lift the corners. The only way for me is to cool only on bridging. I'm thinking to add the missing MOSFET on the board and altering the G-CODE just to start and stop the fan during bridging. Any other idea is very welcome.

You're right.the issue with the non perfect circles solved by tightening the belts and now everything is fine.
Thank you

If you run your printer at a speed greater than 70mm/s then you will need to tight the belts on every print unless you print non mechanical parts that don't need to be absolutely accurate. And if you are printing in PLA while loading your filament just add a small drop of oil to the tip. It will improve your prints. I have spend about 280 printing hours just to discover these tips. And it was a real nightmare.

Great tips! Thanks for sharing your experiences.
How to apply oil to the tip? directly to the nozzle or to the filament before entering the extruder?
I bought my first printer from a chinese supplier.Now i'm going to make my second one by myself.My options are Rostock and Kossel.What's your suggestion?

I just dip the tip of the filament to the oil and it works amazing good. Your filament will never stuck to the walls of the nozzle and therefore the only way it could jam is by small unknown objects found on cheap filaments (but i have also found them on Deutsch filament too!)
Go for a Rostock, it is very simple to build and actually you can make it as big or small you want.

What kind of oil do you use. I'm from the Netherlands have to make sure I use the right one