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AdditiveTech

Helical Gear Cups

by AdditiveTech Mar 15, 2018
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should have read the comments!

downloaded Slic3r because you can use the "Only infill where needed"

and with my unfamiliarity with slic3r i just sent the gcode to printer not realizing it was going to be a 16 hour print because of 100% infill
wish i would have checked octoprint before 5 hours had passed. think i'll just let this one finish and switch to cura or shut off "Only infill where needed" since it clearly doesn't work.

For me the setting I had to change in Slic3r was "Solid infill threshold area" in the Infill section of the Print Settings tab. I changed it from 60 to 30 and the 100% infill in the sides of the cup switched to my infill % instead of solid.

i tried the only infil where needed but it almost crashed my pc not sure if it was an unstable overclock but now its a 30 hour print

In S3d you can use the variable settings wizard and use infill only for the 1st 10mm

Better off in my opinion to just do like 5-10 percent and call it good.

I managed to get the gear cup printed (11 hours) and it came out fine. The mirrored copy has failed 3 times (11 hr, and 8 hr x 2) so far. It fails at upwards of 90% each time and it's almost broken me. I've decided it's just not worth my grey hair to try another 11 hours, but I have always been a glutton for punishment.

I sketched this up in Fusion 360 with you in mind :) Anyway I have not printed it yet but I am 99% sure that this should work well and print well. Ill post a remix of it after I finish printing it. Uses the same bearings as before- little bigger with a slight different base.

I sketched this up in Fusion 360 with you in mind :) Anyway I have not printed it yet but I am 99% sure that this should work well and print well. Ill post a remix of it after I finish printing it. Uses the same bearings as before- little bigger with a slight different base.

Give this a shot- the original file needed some repairs.

All I can say is WOW! I really appreciate you taking the time to update these files....for me... I am very grateful. I will begin printing the mirror cup tonight and I will update you! What all did you fix on that file? I was always close when the print failes and it seemed that when the gear splines combine at the top and come together in a circle when things went south. I would hear a crack, go over and all of the splines had been cracked off. Thee times. I swear, I almost kicked my printer that day! :D

Should the bearings fit over the male end completely, or sit off the base a bit?

I push them almost all the way down. See what works best for you. You don't want the cups rubbing on the base too much, but a little rub is good and stabilizes things.

Looks like 98.5% is perfect for my Original Prusa MK3. Looking forward to making this over the weekend!

Just working out the tolerances with the base. The bearing fits in the cups very nicely. The post printed tightly. Rather than print the whole base repeatedly, I just used meshmixer to cut out a post and scale it down a bit in Simplify3D. 99.5% is still a bit tight, so will keep iterating the cutout down until its just right.

Thank you very much for such a wonderful design. This will be the source of many gifts to friends and family!

Can someone provide a mirrored closed gear cup .stl? I have a dremel 3d40 which can only use Print Studio as a slicer and it doesn't have a mirror function

Great fun print -- had the most trouble with the base, oddly. Inspired, I designed an alternative: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2958677

Helical Gear Cup Base

Will the caged and non-caged versions of the design mesh? It would be pretty cool to print one of each.

Good question.

No they will not. The gears have different teeth size, pressure angles, and helix angles making them incompatible. That said, it would be possible to mesh a caged and closed gear- just not these two.

Good to know. Thanks for clarifying!

What layer height was used?

I used 0.175mm on my Monoprice Mini.

I recommend anyone with a Monoprice Mini check out this doc on layer height:

https://www.mpselectmini.com/optimal_layer

I neglected to read the part of the instructions that said we needed to purchase bearings, so I was a bit confused when my cups were wobbling. I created a simple bearing/wedge to go over the existing pegs which worked great!

Here is the Thing file for the bearing I created https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2832961 and here is a video of how well it spins https://youtu.be/1JhVYrme53c

(FYI - I created the cage helix cups)

Bearing for Helix Cup

Which axis did you mirror the cups on?

Mirror in the X or Y axis.

What software do you use to mirror the stl file?
Can you provide the mirrored stl?

LOL! Now I see how easy it is in Cura.
I never tried that before...
Learn something new every day

Thanks

Yes, all splitting programs have a mirror function.

If you are printing the "cage" cups, I highly recommend using a splitter other than Cura because I personally had an issue with that model and Cura. Slic3r has a bit uglier UI but otherwise great so I recommend that.

What a terrifically awesome design.
I am starting a print for this right now.
Great design, AdditiveTech!