Loading
Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!
joaoluisbrito

VRGM VR Stock V2 for the Oculus Rift, HTC Vive, Windows Mixed Reality and Odyssey

by joaoluisbrito Mar 16, 2018
Download All Files

Please Login to Comment

this is a great creation but it has its flaws, the center piece keeps breaking on me. this is the 3rd time.
its breaking in the connection itself where yoou place the pin. is there any printing infill i should use? 10% keeps failing on me.
i am going to glue it as i dont want to print tit again but any advice is welcome.

Lol i just saw the reinforcement bracket, i am printint that right now. to see it i can use it without glue :D

what a waste of plastic, is not backwards compatible with v1 the rails are different, i didnt check on that i thought it was a standard :( i guess i have to stick with glue :(

Just printing mine out now, it strikes me that you could probably have something like just an endcap that goes in the connector on the end of rail 2 instead of a full rail 3. There's not really much of an advantage there over having a full 3rd rail, but I guess it keeps it more open for further adjustments, like if I decided for some reason that I wanted 2 rail 2s and a shotgun rail, I wouldn't have to do away with that whole rail 3, just the endcap.

Bit of a strange thought but I figured I might as well share it.

Is it possible to get a STEP file? I want to mill mine on my CNC but cant create a tool path off of and STL. Ill happily make 1 for you in exchange for the files.

Repaired the Oculus 10mm mag grip here if anyone needs it

Could someone upload the fixed files? Its the only party I need for completion :)

Mate I said I'll get it sorted I'm at the dentist atm lol

6 days? :D

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Hey there!
When I slice the Odyssey magnetic grip holder (10mm) the wholes on the controller part are gone when I use the preview.
I am using Cura4 for slicing.

Any idea how to fix this? The four holes on the stock-part are not "sliced away".

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

I was able to fix the issue using Meshmixer. The bottom surface of the controller part had their normals flipped so I reversed them. The holes are now there after slicing.

Same thing is happening for me in Cura 4. If I rotate it on its side the holes will be there when sliced. This isn't really a viable solution though.

Flipped normals, got it. Will fix

Okay, just realized the magnets are too weak to properly hold the stock with the vive controllers.

So I'll be using just the front magnet adapter and the right hand controller will be fixed.

How does one attach the controllers to their mounts?

Velcro tape or something? Because they won't hold the controllers just like that.

Are you using the 10mm magnet version?

I really thought 4x4 magnets would work for the Vive controller. I'd recommend trying the 20mm version if you're still up to it, those magnets can usually handle 4.8kg but check where you're from just to make sure. I'll be removing the 10mm version for the vive

It looks like there may be a problem with the STLs in this release. :(

S3D complains about self-intersecting faces on all three rail models, and non-manifold surfaces on rails 1 and 3. It crashes attempting to slice them. Similar results with Slic3r PE and Pathio.

I haven't tried any of the other files yet since I wouldn't be able to get very far without them.

Successfully printed them using Slic3r (posted in makes section) . However, I may know what the problem is and I'll try to fix it ASAP - those 3 models have wrong-facing normals. Inverting normals should do the trick for now, and I recommend printing 1 at a time.

P.S. Slic3r autofixed these for me btw

Played around some more with S3D. Repair --> Flip Surface Orientation looks like it may get it to play nice with Rail1. Waiting on another print to finish now, but fingers crossed!

Awesome, thank you!

Reuploaded fixed files

Hello, I just finished up printing up the stock but noticed I am missing the 45degree angle piece an I'm not seeing it in the files anywhere

Moved to the Marksman Kit as a buying incentive

That's a shame. I looked through both kits and honestly that's the only piece I'd use. I love this stock though. Would you ever consider posting up just the angle mount for sale?
Also, I printed the 10mm mag grips and for some reason the bottom of the controller piece didnt print the holes for the magnets but the rail mount piece did. Is it supposed to be like that or do both pieces have the magnet holes?

Hi, both of them are supposed to have holes. Could you please post a picture so I can pinpoint the problem?
As for the angled mount, it is only available with the whole pack or as a print order.

Everyone,

Final version is out after exactly 1 year of development. I would like to thank everyone for the amazing feedback, support and criticism throughout the year. I wouldn't have fixed half this stuff without your help but I'm happy to say that every single relevant problem to date has been addressed.

In the future I'll finish the new documentation, add new grips for new controllers and systems, attempt to reduce support/filament usage even further and add the ocasional treat or special attachment.

Again thanks to everyone who supported the project or ordered parts from me - my vision for this project has been fulfilled and I hope you're all satisfied with the result.

Kind regards,
João Brito
VRGM

Comments deleted.

hi. sorry, either i'm blind or it's not listed in the comments, but what magnets would you recommend for the magnet grip? and if you have one can you give me a link for where to buy them? thanks!

10mmx2mm magnets off amazon. Might change those soon but if you're bulding for Oculus or WMR systems you should be good with the current options

You should add an skirt on the magnet version

New versions are in development, check back soon for news!

So do I start printing it or I wait ? ;)

Released final version like 4 days ago

Awesome thanks ! Waiting my magnets. Printer is hot, and plastic is fluid. Let's start this sh**it

Yeah! Time to uh, uhm ... Inhale some PLA gases baby!

Love the new design. Can I ask to have the magnet version to be all seperated files or have the parts taking less place? Can't seems to make it fit...

Glad you like it. To my knowledge, every slicing software allows you to isolate separate bodies in the same stl. You should be able to delete one of the two grips when slicing - I use Slic3r as my slicing software btw.

Hello, My printer is just about to finish the right grip for the controllers, but I can't find the 45° grip adapters anywhere, I cannot find it in the "Thing Files" at all and I see some people have printed in in the "Makes" part. Could somebody but me in the right direction please?

Thanks!

Quoting from changelog:

19/01/2019 - Updated both kits, optimization and compatibility. Moved angled adapter to tactical kit.

Hi ... Loving the design and it's great to see the development stages. I have once question (and, I think I've seen this in a video but I can't find the reference to check), can you extend the total rail length by printing an additional middle section (part 2)?

Hi! I'm happy to hear someone has been following the project's dev :)

You can add length by printing another rail-2, but I recommend the options included in the Marksman Kit (more structurally stable).

I have had nothing but issues printing this, the rail are very hard to print because the tiny sharp point on each side making VERY little contact with the surface of the bed causing the point to peel up. The stock is a nightmare as so much support is needed everywhere... I'm having so much trouble.

Use a 2mm brim, go through the documentation and the old videos - those ends got fixed months ago and they aren't sharp anymore. I printed 4 stocks on a 1kg roll last week with roll to spare (on an old prusa mk1), just to say that support usage has been and still is being reduced and the only troublesome part at this point might be the buttstock (which is being simplified). Overall it is the price of having the current joint design, which will not change due to the praise it has received and its success.

I'll be happy to help you to the best of my abilities (shoot me a DM) if you direct me to a specific technical problem you might be having, or a question with a part that you don't know how to print. Looking forward to ending your nightmares.

Thank you for the quick reply. I have managed to print all 3 rails by rotating the models but did end up using more material for support (which I know may sound picky, but I really do hate wasting filament. I tried printing the stock this afternoon but some support came up and ruined the print. I will finish this. And it will look good. It's a learning curve.

AND I WILL POST PICTURES :)

Ideally I would like to have 0 support, as it is a principle I like to uphold myself. Final release will have as little support usage as possible.

I'm attaching pictures to the 3 rails I printed this afternoon, hope you can see the brim and supports I've used. If you have access to a 3D printer with soluble supports that would be the best case scenario, but those are usually out of reach for everyone, myself included.

I'm hoping to release updated videos with process in the final version, which should come around the project's anniversary

Picatinny Rail Fix! I had the same issues as others but I did something stupid....rotated the model. I rotated Rail 2 to have the rails upward and had 0 issues with the rails or other portions...your mileage may vary with other rails. (printed at 25-30% depending on the part) Rails were 30% infill

Hats off to the developer of this!!!! Great work!

Hi, the picatinny rails have been fixed a few months ago and there's no need to rotate the model anymore. I advise printing rail-1 at 10% infill and rail-2 and 3 at 5% infill.

Thank you for the Great design, i have printed one for the HTC Vive.

Does the new file, Grip-Odyssey-V3, work with Samsung Odyssey Plus?

Another user wrote, that the controller size is not the same:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2711606

"This file/scan does NOT match the "new" controllers from the Samsung Odyssey+ HMD. The new controllers are larger, and therefore this model is only for the older Samsung controllers form the original Odyssey."

Windows Mixed Reality Controller Wall Mount (Samsung)

No, it does not. I didn't even know the thing existed to be honest :b
I'll scour the Odyssey subreddit to see if any Odyssey+ user can get me the controller from their system files and create a solution for Odyssey+.
Thanks for letting me know! If you have an Odyssey+ or know someone who does, I'd love for you to test these once they're out!

Thank you for your quick reply,

1.
Review of O+
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLCv8xACTGQ
2.
No problem
Glad to be of service.
3.
Sure, nice to hear you are quick on your feet.

Comments deleted.

Wish I had printed the rails at like 99% as they don't seem to fit the tripod or the reinforcement brackets.

Seeing the comment in the details about parts being too tight depending on your settings. Clearly I need to learn to RTFM ;) anywho, great design! Thanks again for making this available to the community.

Hey, sorry to hear you've ran into trouble! In the future, rails take priority over everything else, so always print them at 100% or you're in for a world or trouble with assembling and mounting. I have since then corrected some tolerances on the mounting brackets, but I do hope everything is working fine!

Thanks for the reply, and good to know! I'll give the brackets another go but maybe at 101-102% and let you know. Regardless I've been using the stock without brackets and its been working wonderfully. Thanks again!

No problem! Let me know if those settings work for reference. The brackets were implemented when a few people complained about joint snapping. They're optional and more suitable if you tend to handle things roughly or carelessly.

Any word on when the new magnet grips will drop? I just printed everything and the magnets barely work. If I pull the controller towards me even a bit, the magnets disengage and the whole thing falls to the ground. Same thing if I take the back controller off, there's too much torque since the build is backheavy

Sounds a bit dramatic, but sad to hear that isn't working out for you. Are you using a standard grip for your dominant hand? You should be able to hold the stock at all times with it. Personally I would recommend adding a sling (or a guitar strap, rope, etc.) to your stock so you can let it fall while you use your hands for something else (such as switching to a secondary weapon). I have no estimate for the magnetic grips as I'm still testing out the best possible design among a few, but should be a couple of months.

Oh. It appears that the vive controller is far heavier than the other controllers and I didn't account for that at all. I might have to come up with a separate design for the vive. This is valuable feedback, thanks for raising this concern.

Regardless, I'll make sure the next design gets a big ass magnet in it in order to prevent this. Strange that no others vive users to date have mentioned this problem. Sorry for your troubles - i think that if you follow the project here you'll get notified whenever I update it, the next update being the new magnetic grips.

I'll keep an eye out, thanks!

in your main picture it says it support Samsung Odyssey. Will it support the controllers for the HP Windows mixed reality?

It also says in the picture and in the project title that it supports Windows Mixed Reality. You can find grips for your WMR headset in the project.

Hi the magnets I have are different size then what you used. Is it possible to get the 3D file for the oculus controllers so I can adjust these to fit mine? Mine are about 8mm x 4.65mm

Hi, I advise getting the magnets that I'm using or waiting for a new version for two reasons:

  • mag grips on this project are a work in progress and they are being redesigned under a new approach

  • Quoting from the main page, "VRGM VR Stock (1.8) for the Oculus Rift, HTC Vive, Windows Mixed Reality and Odyssey by joaoluisbrito is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial - No Derivatives license." with emphasis on no derivatives.

Can I buy this pre-made and assembled? I tried clicking the button”order this printed” but it won’t work on my iPad

Sure, shoot me a DM or an e-mail at [email protected] with your country + city, and I'll get back to you asap with stock price + shipping fees.

Does the controller mounts rail attach to nerf guns

Hi, I'm having some trouble with the magnets: How do you get both the grip and the rail magnets to lie flat? They don't provide enough grip unless they are both perfectly flat, and I've tried twice now but they are off angle just a little bit.

Hi, I've never had trouble with it angling so I can't do much for you there. Although, magnetic grips are scheduled for redesigning in the next month or so, so the new version won't have that problem in the first place. Sorry about that.

Do you have the original mixed reality controller model available that you based the grips off?

I used to but I have since lost them when transfering files. Grips were mostly made from user feedback.

Hi sorry to bother you.

On the instructions page it refers to the detailed guide, but I can’t see the guide anywhere. Do you have a link?

Thanks

John

Hey there! This is so great, I love it! But how does the stock-mount go onto the rail? Is it an outdated version?

Well I do hope it does .. Is there something wrong with it?

I can`t figure it out :-) It looks like in the 3rd picture here on thingyverse (named Page 02) How does that fit onto Rail 1-2-3? The way I think it has to go in (slide in from the top untill the holes match) does not work, because the stock mount would need a cutout on the bottom right corner if you look at the pic. So that it has the same shape as the other end of the rail.
Or do I get something wrong?

Stock-Mount fits into Rail-1, which has clearance for the mount to fit all the way through. I assembled a stock for a client 2 days ago.

Thank you, then I must have accidently printed out Rail2 twice instead of rail 1. I will reprint it and try it, thanks for your help!

can you make an adapter for the grips to clamp onto 1/2 inch PVC pipe?

[email protected] for comissions. Describe your problem and I'll send you a quote.

I've just printed all the rails and the "reinforcement brackets". I assembled the rails and tried to insert the reinforcement brackets, and now, I really can't tell where they are supposed to go. The rails are now a single piece, and I thought I could slide them on or something, but it doesn't seem right, and the holes for pins on the brackets are in really weird positions. Can you clarify where they are supposed to go? Thanks.

Disassemble all rails. Insert first bracket in rail 2 through the rear and all the way, mount rail 1 and bring the bracket back into the 1-2 joint. Repeat for Rail 2-3

Any specific magnet you recommend for the magnetic grips? I want to be able to easily remove my hand when needed but not have the controller always falling off.

the strongest you can get within the specified locations.

if you can tell me the diameter and depth of the holes i can find the exact size needed to the right magnets for you.to link right here for you make life easier for everyone else

Dimensions were listed in the description some months ago. I don't imagine life being too hard if you can read it.

Also ctrl + f

kjmagnetics.com has a bunch of default sizes which one from this site would you recommend?

Hi,

i'm about to print this hole thing with paid ones. One question: Where is the detailed printing guide? Can't find it.

By the way: I'm very thankfull, that you did the job for wmr also!

Hi,

Thanks for printing and supporting the project!
The in-depth guide is outdated and shows an older version, but I hope this helps in some way: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQpi6WilAXI

Print settings are posted on the description in this thingiverse page, and you can always ask me if you have any doubts.

Thanks for the kind words and have fun!

I am trying very hard to make these at the moment. Nothing fits together. I have to sand, file and hammer everything into place. Have wasted a lot of filament getting these to work. I now only have stock to make, oh and rail number 1 again, coz it snapped because the stock mount wouldn't fit and I was a little too heavy handed trying to squeeze it in after filing the thing for about 10 minutes.

Great concept and design, the way it pieces together, just be prepared to do a LOT or post processing or re-modelling in blender etc to downsize the connectors to fit. That's what I am off to do now.

I am also facing the same issues, but these are mainly caused by the printing rather than the design. For example the socket on Rail1 is supposed to be 9.41mm but the actual print measured as 8.8mm. So there is some shrinkage, but unfortunately not everything shrinks the same, so my parts still don't fit :( However the entire rail length is still correct, so it seems only the joints shrink.

Hello Hippox. I'm sorry that you have been experiencing these issues and I wish I could help you out. However, do realize that the majority of users have been successful (with a minor problem here and there due to this being a work-in-progress build). Your expectations at this point seem very high and I can understand that but do keep in mind that this is mostly a non-profit 1-man project and that you are the first to report this ammount of failure.

In my experience, even with a stable build, I too have wasted more filament than I'd wish for only to realize later on what worked out best for my machine and for the project. Feel free to consult the (outdated) in-depth guide and the various settings posted across the project for different machines. Let me know if I can be of use as well with any tips or knowledge that may be helpful to you.

Lastly I would advise you to avoid remixing as it is against the current rules and may make things worse, especially if you are using Blender, which is not appropriate at all for parts with this tolerance.

Again, let me know if I can be of use for any problem you need fixing. Feel free to send me a direct message and have fun with the build!

Has the developer had time to fix the thinness of the WMR grips? Hoping to print this off soon, very excited!

Just to update you that I have redone the thickness on the WMR grips (except the magnetic ones, taking care of that as I post). I would really appreciate it if you could test it for me!

Have been super busy but I'll really try to finish adressing that issue this weekend!

Just got this printed, are the infill amounts specified in the files? Thanks again :)

Hello there, they are specified in the description.

Hello, not sure if this has been said before, but is the half rail optional? I'm planning on getting rails 1-3 printed. Thanks in advance :)

Greetings, the half rail is completely optional, added as a request. You can also check the kits for some more options :)

Hi joaoluisbrito! Thank you for your wonderful work on this system. I notice that in the pin batch that the 4 winged pins are floating. This makes printing them challenging. Would you be able to make them flush with the other pins?

I will try to attach some images here. One of first layer, and the other of the effect on rafts.

Fixed, thanks for the images.

Hi, I'm considering getting this printed by a friend, but I'd like to know how far off the 2.0 redesign/final version is (specifically the magnet grip improvements). If the release of the newer version is near I might want to consider waiting instead of going for it right now.

Hey aliterally. Development has slowed down quite a bit and we're still a ways off the 2.0 final. You should go ahead and print this version, and my recommendation is for a regular grip for his dominant hand and a magnetic one for the other.

Worst case scenario he can ask you for a new magnetic grip in the future when they eventually get released. I don't have a fixed date for it since this is a hobby project and I haven't had much time for it at the moment. But I do plan on finishing it and of course, everything will be compatible with the current build.

Let me know if I can help you with anything else.

Sorry if its been answered but whats the difference between the Oculus and OculusNaked controller mounts, just wondering which one I should use for the stock controllers.

Naked is obsolete since magnet came out, it was supposed to be a faster way to get in and out with your forward arm. Go for the standard and see if it works out fine for you.

When trying to print the pins in a batch, Cura 3.5.1 doesn't want to use a brim or skirt around the barrel extensions. I will split up the pins so they will print. May I ask what program you used to create them?

I'd advise against using Cura and instead going for Simplify3D or Slic3r, depending on your 3D Printer. Another thing you could make sure of is that you batch is correctly aligned at (Z = 0).

Have you thought about (crazy idea) adding a small mount for a mini tactile transducer? You can route this to a cheap or re purposed pc speaker and it will add a hardcore vibration to the stock when you fire. With very little modification you could actually feel the rifle recoil against your shoulder. https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-TT25-8-Tactile-Transducer/dp/B009RGJ47S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1537907539&sr=8-2&keywords=sound+transducer

While I do have a couple of those around and that is a really fun idea, I'm afraid it wouldn't do any favors to aiming and without proper scripting it would trigger everytime someone presses the firing button regardless of the user being in a menu or not. You're welcome to try it out for yourself though, I would love to see something like that on Thingiverse!

I think it's just me. But, the stock adapter is a bit too large to fit with everything. I ended up sanding and even hammering it to get it into place.

Would love if you could supply me with some pictures of the issue before sanding and your printer model and settings used! Thanks for your feedback.

Anyone use silicone skins? Will any of these work with the thick silicone skins? Primarily Vive but I have Oculus too.

Hello! I can't account for using silicone skins but I would endorse them greatly if they worked. My controllers have become scratched and slightly dull from using the regular grips hundreds of times over, which can basically lower their resell value. A silicone skin would be the best solution, so if you think you could test that for me I would appreciate it a lot.

Tested. They do not work with the silicone cover skins on the Vive. Its just enough to prevent the controller from inserting all the way.

Thanks for testing NachoFoot. I honestly have no solution for this ... I would love to protect controllers from scratching with silicone skins, but I can't ask everyone to buy them for their own controllers and It's enough of an undertaking to be redesigning all grips at the moment, let alone create another version for silicone skins ^-^'

I am open to suggestions here, but you can always (and easily) coat the grips with a silicone layer, or a soft rubber composite! :)

Thank you very much for your contribution, I would like to expand the rails base by the size of my arm, with 3 rails falls short. Should I print rail number 2 to enlarge?

Hello! Yes, you should print Rail-2 to extend the stock. I am considering creating a half rail to distribute in the near future as well.

I have already mounted it with two Rail-2 and it has been very good, thanks.

Is there any way you could distribute just the left and right controllers separate? When I try to use S3D to print after splitting them apart it fails every time at the same layer which makes me believe that the part splitting is what failed. I've tried about 5 times now and it fails about 2 hours in each time...

Just trying to make the left magnetic and the right the full width controller holder :p

I am printing as a sheet, I'm about to try printing individually.

EDIT: I re seperated surfaces and printed them individually and it worked just fine.

Also, the controllers are really thin at some points. Sometimes so thin its only 2 lines thick. I reinforced my "naked" wmr holders with ducttape for comfort but I am worried about layer splitting. That may be something to consider.

EDIT: Layer splitting occured but I was already printing the magnet one so it's not to big a deal. I assume not moving it in an out will reduce this issue.

All in all this is great work tho! I'm going to make a video with it showcasing how decent wmr tracking is. Just waiting for magnets.

Sorry for not getting back to you, was on vacation! Anything I can be of use or any feedback you'd like to give? :)

Sure! I haven't had time to create the video in full yet, need to gather footage. My main comments about your stock are mostly positive:

  1. It's very sturdy even without hardware
  2. It was easy to print and hard for a critical failure (So I think anyone can print it, even recomending a library printer or uni printer if people don't have their own)
  3. Easy to assemble
  4. comfortable to use
  5. the controllers work fine even with inside out tracking (was worried there would be blockage)

My complaints were mainly minimal:

  1. The strap doesn't make sense and usually makes me tangled in cords
  2. The magnet keying should use only 2 magnets, and slightly larger ones. To make it easy to connect one of the polaritys should be flipped. This makes it so that the controller can only go on one way (right now it catches on the similar facing magnets)
  3. The inserts for the mixed reality controllers aren't the best and seem to be backwards, this is hard to describe in text tho
  4. A small thing as when it fails it doesn't matter much but, why not make one side of the rails a flat rectangle? It seems when I print they don't even contact the brim (infact the two rails I printed with bad bed leveling stuck better because the second layer was actually at the first layer height (ie sinking the model 1 layer actually improved the ability to print the rails?)

Which pins are supposed to be used for the cheek rest? I don't see any like the ones in the video.

They are still on the file Pin-Batch and are the slimmer ones. Since making that video, I have redesigned how pins work and thus have outdated media atm.

Ah, thank you! I didn't even notice that a couple of them were slimmer. That would explain why I had so much issue trying the other pins: they were just a touch too large.

You're welcome, and I guess I should really get that new video taken care off. Let me know if you need help with anything else.

This comment is for feature requests. I'm currently streamlining and redesigning the stock in preparation for 2.0 (final) release. If you would like to request a feature, new part, or have any suggestions now is the time to do it.

Reply to this comment with your feedback!

Pointy bits removed on main rails, added 1/2 Rail, optimizing during spare time.

I've got two feature requests:

1) Consider a "rail extension" part that fits between rails 1/2 or 2/3. Re-using a second rail 2 works, but neither the bottom chamfer nor the top rails line up properly. Doesn't affect function much at all, but makes it look a tad less nice.

2) Consider adjusting the edges of the rails to be less pointed and angled. If they were 45-degree angles with 1-2mm of flat edge, then the rails could be printed without a brim and with fewer failures.

That said, it's a great design overall. The joinery is excellent. I'm definitely going to order some magnets and a sling to get the most out of the setup.

Consider removing the pointy bits on the edges?

Is there anyone else who has some issues printing the rails. The tips of the rail attachment side keep breaking off on one side (the side that lays on the bed) during print. Just the tips, but enough to make the part useless. Any tips or trick on hoe to avoid this?. Im now printing with a brim.

This question has been asked multiple times over. As stated in several comment responses, an in-depth video and the print settings in the description and makes, use a 2-3 mm brim to catch the angular edges of the picatinny rails. In the future please take the time to look through these resources, as I have spent my time making them to avoid repeating myself on these rookie questions. Keep in mind that this applies to future prints you might encounter and is directly tied to the resolution at which you are printing the geometry vs volume of said geometry per layer.

That's just bad design. Hear me out though, as I'm not trying to bash your work but rather remind you of the thermodynamics of plastic. If you have to adapt printers to use helpers like brims you didn't design the item at hand specifically for 3D printing. Hell, the print orientations for the shotgun parts are possibly the weakest considering the forces involved and the most likely to introduce friction when racking the foregrip. The idea is solid but the execution is lacking.

Hard angles don't print well, especially on the bed surface. You obviously know this as you point out the use of brims, but it can't be reiterated enough. The parts should be redesigned to have chamfers (or fillets even for wider corners) so the plastic tugs more peripherally when cooling rather then inward (which causes curls). Where two outer lines meet at an angle, the plastic pulls generally into the halfway angular point between said lines. A 90 degree junction will pull toward the innermost 45 degrees of that right angle. Two 45 degree junctions in close proximity will pull at an average of 45 degrees, but with the majority of force spread at opposing 22.5 degree wide angles--more effectively forcing the plastic to shrink into itself (solid walls) rather than the infill (flexible empty space) which is susceptible to curling. Purely rounded fillets, if large enough to maintain integrity of the walls, will pull throughout the curved section of walls almost entirely; this makes it the best option but fillets aren't the best for lots of designs nor are they easy to place sometimes.

As for the shotgun parts, the barrel components as they are can (and in my case HAVE) shear off easily due to torsion of the pump handle. Similarly, without sanding the ripples of the layers add tons of friction that needs to be worked out one way or another. The general rule for sliding pieces is to print them such that the layer ripples run as a sort of track to aid the action. This reduces friction and wear, but also promises more torsion strength as the outer walls are now used structurally. I reprinted these parts such that the layer grooves were running lengthwise on the top and bottom and it has the most strength possible. However I required soluble supports with tight tolerances as the cores of the barrel parts would otherwise sag and break tolerances. If these parts were remade with the "top" portions of the core parts reworked into 45 degree angles they would still serve their purpose but also would be printable without supports in the better orientation.

We all get crazy complex and mechanical when we get this deep into designing things, but sometimes it benefits us to sit back and rethink the simple material physics and reproduction quotient. You're doing a good job and these aren't issues resourceful people like myself couldn't fix ad-hoc, but if the project is for a general audience it's best to consider "fire-and-forget" proofing your prints as well. General 3D printer consumers have lower quality printers than the average and have enough to fix before they even get to the quality of their STL files, so every little fix counts.

Sorry for asking bro, but if you read my question I explaned that im printing ot flat on the bed and with a brim. I did read the comments, and I know how you printed it. I printed it the same way with a brim and in the position as you mentioned in the discription and video.. But I still have those small tips of the rails breaking of on the side were the print lays on the bed. So I tought I could ask you guys here for some advice. But if offering help is to mutch to ask.I will appologies for asking you a “rookie” question and waisting your time.

has anyone got to try the magnetic variants? im so tempted to just slice the bottom part of my grip adapters and add holes for the magnets just like in the 3d file

If you can do that accurately, go for it. Height on these versions is slightly altered depending on the grip you're using. I'm using a mag grip for my forward hand and only problem I've had was not gluing the magnets apropriately. Make sure you have a very flat contact surface and enough clearance for the magnets to sit in there. Good luck!

does it come off easily? cuz so far i mainly use your stock for pavlov so there is a lot of fast movement in and out, im hoping i can detach it from the magnet to reload easy enough but still have the strength to stick together when im aiming down the sights

I have only my personal experience to contribute with: the present configuration with the magnets I'm using feels very close to gripping an object. It sits well on its own and doesn't come off with swinging and wiggling the stock around, and I can remove it without much effort. Make sure you glue the magnets properly and permanently! I was lazy the first time around and one magnet ended up being pulled by its counterpart :b

alright! i'll give it a go, since i havent shaved off the sides like i mentioned before for the straps, i'd prefer this method instead

so i manage to get the thing nice and set up with magnets, same type, i made only the front part to have magnet like yours, but i notice now i cant let go of my right hand because the magnets isnt strong enough to hold the weight of the whole gun stock, is that normal?

Uh-oh. I never considered that! I'm left handed and I do off-hand reloading! Oh god D:
Well at the moment I have no clue on what to do, will think about it.

oh it's not that big of a deal, cuz its heavily reliant on my playstyle when using specifically bolt action rifles, I have my left hand on the front grip and my right on the trigger, when i rack the bolt action rifles i always use my right hand so that I can keep my gun always facing on target and the only movement i need to do is a simple wrist flick, currently I'm trying to add more magnets so improve the strength a bit more and see how it goes

Stock weighs less than a 1KG, shoot for that ammount of pull on the magnets (dunno about center of mass)

Would it be possible to make the recess holes for the magnets deeper? Another idea would be to add a locking mechanism between the 2 magnet points. I find that just three magnets doesnt seem to cut it. I'm right handed and am running a magnet grip on the left hand and I find that 2 magnets in each of the 6 recess holes has a strong enough grip (12 magnets all up for the left grip). Only issue now is that there is now a gap between my controller and the stock as I have too many magnets.

Currently I don't have enough clearance to deepen the holes, and adding height to the grips means adding height to the stocks so that the virtual guns stay level with the 'irl' stock. Therefore you can either search for stronger magnets within these parameters, or wait until I have the time and resources to redesign them properly.

Has anyone already made rail sections that are three-quarter-length, half-length, or third-length? I'd like to finesse the exact length a bit more.

Hey, you can either split Rail-3 to your prefered measurement, or you can get the Tactical Kit (in the description) to really finetune your rig with rail extensors and attachments without the hassle of cutting and taking risks with Rail-3.

I thought so. Thanks. I'm just looking at the STL files and was considering trying a few improvements to modularity. Before I reinvent the wheel, I thought I'd ask if you already tried these things and found it just wasn't structurally sound, or some other reason why it isn't already like that. For example, the stock mount looks like a slight adjustment could make it attach to the rail by the same interface as the rails use to attach to each other. Making that change would make rails 1 and 2 interchangeable. Similarly, instead of building the front sling loop into rail 3, it could also attach by the same mechanism as the stock mount or rail interface to the front end of rail 3, thereby making rails 2 and 3 interchangeable, meaning there is only 1 kind of rail. Alternatively, the sling loop could be attached by a pic mount to one of the rails. Or, instead of changing the stock mount to match the rail-to-rail interface, I could adjust the rail interface to match the stock mount interface. Did you already try any of this and find problems?

How do you print the rails on the side using a Prusa i3, I have a MK2S just starting out on this whole adventure. Slic3r does not support or extend the small edge of the rail all the way to the table meaning it tries to print mid-air. At this point I'm thinking to print it on its back or edit the model to have a bigger tip so that it will print.

Do you have any other suggestions?

I've noticed since then that it doesn't connect regardless. I've never realized this because it wasn't a problem during printing. Try to use a brim instead of a raft and give it a shot to see what happens. In reality, at .20 res, that layer just gets deposited on top of the brim and that gap shouldn't be an issue. I remember it took me 1 or 2 tries until it was perfect but that's affordable I guess.

I finally have my vacation and have had time to start up this project again, and it is definitely a resolution thing. With a 0.4mm nozzle of the i3 slicer is set to first layer 0.45mm so what I ended up doing is editing your model and slightly widening the tips and it worked beautifully, with the tolerances the grips still slide freely. A brim would probably been worth a shot also, gotta keep that in mind, this has been a learning experience. I have almost completed it only pins remaining, interestingly i would not need them for the rail bodies, that was press-fit tight in tolerances.

hehe, I did mention using a brim in printing instructions and in my in-depth video. Since publishing this model however, I have learned from other models that you did the correct thing, and makers often reupload pointy models with widened tips because of users being unable to print them. Thanks for letting me know, this has been a learning experience for me as well! Regarding the pins, it may look like you don't need them right now and you certainly don't, but after switching rails a lot mine became looser and looser, and thus the pins began to make sense. Although I am redesigning the usage of pins, soon™

Hey there, I'm currently using slic3r as well and have no problems to report. For these parts, I always include a brim because of those delicate first layers and out the top of my head this problem of yours might be due to resolution. If you haven't found a solution for it yet you can definitely print it with the rail facing downwards - granted there's a bit more of support material and cleanup to do and the pin holes will be a bit fragile, but it works all the same! I have some test parts printed in this configuration and my only complaint is layer orientation.

Let me know if I can be of further help!

Let me start out by saying this is pretty impressive work! I did have some questions before attempting to print one out, however.

1) I see there are three different version of the Vive controller mounts (normal, cut and naked), could you possibly explain what the differences or pros/cons of each of them are? There's only so much that you can tell from a visual inspection of them.

2) If I wanted to print a stock with the shotgun rail am I correct that I'd want to print the following:
Stock
Stock-Mount
Rail-1
Rail-2
Shotgun Adapter
Shotgun Rail
Shotgun Rail-extension (if needed)
2x Vive Controller mount

Hey there, looking forward to see your print!

1) Normal is the first working version, tested by actual Vive users. Cut was an attempt at making them shorter to improve maneuverability. Naked is a bit of an extreme solution to really improve maneuverability but reduce accuracy. In the future I'll scrap out the naked versions when I release the magnetic system for all the controller grips.

2) Correct, plus a bunch of pins you can break apart and insert them into stuff (some people used bolts instead). The extension can be pretty fragile, so watch out for the recommended infill ammounts.

When you're done, I'd appreciate all the feedback you could give me! And for extra modularity and quality of life, check out the kits! :)

I did want to ask a question about the pins. How easy is it to remove them once they're in place? I was also considering trying to substitute nut/bolts combinations for at least some of the pins so that things like the controller holders might be easier to adjust.

I think I saw somewhere that you mentioned you were planning to standardize the size of the pins. If you do decide to do that, it might be good to go with a size that is also a standard nut/bolt size.

Anyway, I'll keep you posted about how the print goes. :)

Yeah, I'm going to standardize the size for those. They're easy to remove provided the print came out as it was supposed to (no warps near holes, etc). I personally push them out with a screwdriver.

You can also take a look at one of the first makes, where a user has already used bolts and nuts instead of pins - It's just a matter of asking him or her what size ;)

Good luck!

It looks like my previous comment got flagged because I edited it too much. Oops!

Anyway, I printed out the shotgun rail so far and it mostly worked but it came out a little bit warped at the end of the slide, maybe due to not enough support? It seems to work though so I think I'll just use it rather than trying another print.

That being said, I did have a suggestion that I think would make the design a lot easier to print. With the rails what I'd suggest is moving the holes for the pins so that instead of sticking out the bottom they were instead in the bottom of the rail (inside the main body), or maybe the middle of the rail. Then you could flatten the bottom of the rails and it would allow them to be printed sitting on their bottom side. In that orientation it looks to me like the only support you'd need would be for the male end of the joint mechanism. Overall I think it would make for a cleaner/smoother print with a lot less support required, and a lot less post-print clean-up.

Just something for you to consider.

So far I've managed to print the shotgun rail and it came out alright, although the end of the slide was a little bit warped maybe due to not enough support. It's not the prettiest, but it seems to work, so I think I'll just use it rather than trying another print.

With that being said, I did have a suggestion of a relatively minor change which I believe would make the design a lot easier to print. With the rails, what I'd suggest is moving the hole for the pin up so that it isn't sticking out of the bottom of the rail. Instead put it in the bottom of the rail (inside the main body) or maybe in the middle. Then if you flatten the bottom of the rails they could be printed sitting on their bottoms with only minimal support (mostly only the male end of the joint mechanism looks like it would need support in that orientation).

I think that would allow for overall a nicer/smoother print with less clean-up needed afterwards. It would help especially for the shotgun rail since it has the spherical slide which doesn't work as well with support as a flat surface. Anyway, just something for you to consider.

Hey Nagorak, thanks a lot for your feedback and for supporting the project! That's a great idea. I'll keep it in mind when redesigning that part as so far it is the one that produces the most waste in support material.

I've been having less and less time now to work on this project, but I'll try to sprint through a couple of these issues after finishing the magnetic grips.

Hey, I wanted to get back to you about my experiences. The major thing I wanted to mention was the Vive controller grip. The design of the full version (not the cut down ones) seems to be good for the most part, but there is one issue related to the Vive wrist cord. On the Vive controller the cord attaches in the front, so to use it with the holder it has to wrap underneath the controller. Unfortunately, with the current design there just isn't enough space for it, so it prevents the Vive controller from sliding all the way into the grip. I discovered that by cutting out a larger opening in the bottom the controller can slide in no problems.

To get it to work for me I made a quick and dirty modification using Windows 3D Builder (included with Windows 10). My modified STL file and 3D Builder file are attached so you can see the changes I made and possibly consider integrating them into the official grips. The 3D Builder file basically just has an oval shaped cylinder that I subtracted from the model. With that removed the controller works perfectly.

Regarding the shotgun rail, I also couldn't get it to work with the Vive controller. I think the problem is that the Vive controller is so large and top heavy. The weight ends up making the adapter twist slightly on the rail, so that it ends up "jamming". Anyway, no big deal for an optional addition. I suspect it works a lot more smoothly with the Oculus Touch controllers since they are so much lighter.

Other than that the stock works great! Although, I did actually flatten out the bottom of the rails to make them easier to print. But everything fit together without issue. It looks pretty cool too. :)

Hi, sorry for not getting back to you earlier! Was on vacation and this comment is a bit buried and all! I see your point and I really appreciate you taking the time to share your findings with me! I'll get around to reworking the Vive controllers with your feedback in mind! Hadn't done any improvements so far since the few vive users that got back to me said it was ok. I'll try to fix it and while at it, I might make a rail adapter so you can use grips from other projects on my stock, since they'll probably be more reliable and all for now!

Regarding the shotgun, again I reaaaally messed up redesigning it and I shouldn't have rushed it since I forgot to account for the Vive's size. You're correct, Oculus Touch works smoothly given the center of mass and weight. I'll get around to it and I'll release it in due time, with full credit to your contribution.

Lemme know if there's anything else. Have fun!

-João

I ordered this printed in ABS. Rail joint snapped on assembly. Stock mount broke during use. I was able to super glue the rails together so it's usable, but the stock is unusable, unfortunately.

Printed on Zortrax M200

Hey rbullin, it's sad to hear that. However, this print was never printed or tested by anyone in ABS before, so it's hard for me to help you in troubleshooting what went wrong. Maybe if you could give me some information on print settings I might be able to take this case into account and improve the design of the stock.

Regardless, this project is intended to be printed in PLA with the recommended settings in the description and as some users have vouched, it is an extremely durable assembly. I hope I can help you with your print!

Thanks for the reply. When I get a chance, I will re-order in PLA with the infill you've specified.

Ive tried multiple times to print this, changed a bunch of settings and everything but it keeps failing, What where your settings?

My settings are posted in the project description and they are working for an original Prusa i3 Mk1 1.75 mm. I can try and help you with printing a specific part but some more info would be useful. Alternatively, you can check the makes for people who are using similar settings.

Just made one and loving it, some issues, (on oculus btw)

-could be my print issue but the grip button actually rarely gets stuck on the edge of the adapter so it ended up being constantly pressed even after i let the grip button go

  • straps always getting wedged when trying to quick slot them back into the cups, the cut on the side definitely helps but I think its not enough, I was using it to play pavlov and i ended up taking my straps off and going in, but in slower pace games like shooting stuff in H3 then its fine

I also notice the new "naked" adapters, would be it the same if i just modified the one i already printed by shaving out the sides to be a bit closer like the new adapters?

Hey, thanks for your input and I'm glad you're enjoying the stock!

The naked adapters have some tiny dimension changes but I'd say go ahead and cut a profile on the ones you have printed already, it'll save you a new print. Meanwhile I'm working on getting all of this fixed (as soon as a bunch of magnets I ordered arrive) by building a magnetic version for the grips and thus eliminating the controller issue from the equation. I think there's a 'Watch' option to follow project updates, so you can look out for that in the near future :)

Regarding the print button getting stuck in the adapter, could you please reply to this comment with a picture of it? I'm having trouble visualizing what's going on - I'll be sure to fix it.

Something like this, but i notice this only happens because i took the straps off so it drops in deeper than usual into the cups, maybe once i cut the profiles on the sides i can leave the straps on and i wont have to worry about this next time

Hi, great work, will definitely try this one out.
Do you have 3d model of Samsung Odyssey controllers (preferably in some usable format and not stl)?
Thanks

Sadly nothing usable, just a mockup for reference.
Glad you're trying it, be sure to post your creation :D

Can you share your mockup?)

Is it possible to make smaller rail parts? I only got 140mm printed and would very much to print this

I don't recommend downscaling as it would make everything smaller and break ergonomics.

You can either print these parts vertically, or use your slicing software to split them and later put them back together using superglue or by friction welding.

Let me know if these work for you, otherwise I'll think of something else.

Cant print it vertically its 140mm x 140mm x 140mm :P gonna try splitting and gluing, i´ll let you know how it goes :)

Not just any glue! :b
Loctite gel, as suggested below by Kingzope is really effective and doesn't eat through the pla

Had many problems with this print (can't tell why this was my second print) but it's finally done! It's ugly but sturdy and it works :) I'll add it to makes :)

Having a large amount of difficulty printing this model. Can't seem to get the angle for the rails correct. Stock angle the top rail tabs keep getting stuck on the print head and lifting off. Maker Select v2 Glass bed, Microswiss hotend

Hello, could you show me a picture of what's happenning? If the top rail is lifting off, it most likely requires a brim to provide some fixture for said tabs. You can always try to print this model in another direction but I'll be able to assist you further with a clear picture.

Do you recommend printing the rails on their side, like in the files? Looking at your Made photos, it looks like they were printed with the bottom facing down.

I recommend printing them on their side, as shown in the files. The reason mine are facing down in those pictures is because they're still the rails from my very first version, which used more overall filament. I've printed the latest ones in the meantime.

Hey so I'm curious how the split sniper stock is supposed to be attached? I thought maybe it snapped together but I see no obvious way to do that. What do you recommend as a solid solution?

Hey, if your only option is to print the split parts I recommend friction welding them together. There are a couple of videos illustrating this on Youtube and it is easily done. Alternatively, sanding the surfaces to provide a good contact surface and connecting them with industrial glue will also do the trick if done correctly. It is very important to choose the correct glue.

Let me know if it helped you or I'll think of something else to facilitate the process.

edit: I split the parts in a way that pressure from your shoulder wouldn't tear the bond easily, given that you'd be pushing the buttstock into the corner where they join and thus against each other. So my only worry is any force that is perpendicular to those edges, but if they are joined properly and the bond is strong I believe there's no reason for concern.

I don't have 2.85mm PLA but I might have to invest in some after watching some of the friction welding videos. Never even knew that was a thing. In the meantime I found a video that tested glues and found that loctite super glue gel control has the best hold for PLA so I'm going to sand them down and attach them with that and see how it goes. I'll let you know. Thanks for the info.

P.S. The Sniper butt stock looks absolutely awesome! The size of it is something to behold lol.

Hehehe, makes me glad you're enjoying yourself. Grab some pillows and go prone once you're done with it :)

The loctite gel worked great. I added the make.

Thanks for sharing kingzope. Got new stuff coming up, stay tuned :)