Octoprint Console Raspberry Pi 3 B 5 " inch Elcrow touch screen with fan cooling

by monkeypantman Mar 23, 2018
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Trying to slice this, the whole lid with the Raspberry logo, Prusa Slicer does not handle it well. There are over 2000 non-manifold errors, and Prusa Slicer does not seem to be able to repair them correctly. Bringing it into a mesh editor helps, but curious as to why it has to many errors?

Can you please post the type of monitor you are using for this enclosure?

The LCD works but this size does not match this console :( https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32993813607.html

Case not fit for LCD https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32993813607.html
Please upload STEP or other editable format for adjustment
Thank you

Any chance I could get your original cad files for this? I'm using it for a retropie setup and would like to add speakers. Thanks for putting this together. There's almost nothing out there for 5" screens.

This looks great! I just dld one for myself, as i have an extra 5" screen collecting dust. What is the benefit of the console over just the browser on my PC?

Could you supply the step or stp files. I would like to modify to mount on lower eu3030 bar of a hypercube printer.

Just a heads up, the command to add the adafruit repo is 404'ing and the line that tells you to run the calibrator has had a path change in TouchUI, it should be "Run sudo xinit ~/TouchUI-autostart/helpers/calibration.xinit*" as the calibration.xinit has been moved to the helpers subdirectory.

Nice Housing, nice Fit.
But i´m not able to rotate the screen AND the touch. The commands in the description wont work.
Try to flip the screen before print.

I'm totallly intrested in this project, love to print it and build it, but I've got a little question about the software for the display.
what plugin do you use te get the controlles on the display, or did you program this all youselfe?

I use Octoprint on the Raspberry with TouchUI plugin.

Comments deleted.

never mind, what are the fan dimensions?

"I would say to print this in 0.15 or 0.2 with 3 shells and 0% infill."
Don't follow that suggestion, the print sagged in a lot of places with those Settings and the lower part of the Slot for the fan to sit in would hang in thin air. i aborted the print after about 3 hours.

Support everywhere and NO Infill didn't work either, since there would be no Support inside the object. so the screw-holes for the fan would still hang in thin air.

10% infill also weren't sufficient to supprt it, so I printed it with 20% Infill. I Chose "Supports everywhere". I kept them for the big hole where the fan will sit, in the front and for the hole where the cables feed through.
i cleared the supports Cura wanted to place for the holes at the top, since i thought they weren't neccessary.

It worked perfectly. everything came out well with theses Settings, also the holes at the top were really good without Support.

Comments deleted.

The whole lid part does have issues which explains the other persons issue with the weird thin layer. Here is a screen shot from S3D with both the original and a fixed version of the lid. As you can see the red lines indicate errors in the model that are non-manifold.


Great Job...
Will try it soon

I don't know if you designed it that way, but after printing the Base Assembly Perfectly I attempted to print the Lid. The only Problem is, is that it basically prints the Lid as a Top and Not a Lid. The opening for the Screen is there in the beginning and shown in the Modelling Field in Simplify3D but it actually prints it as a solid block of plastic.

Actually, I let the Print Finish and it came out into two pieces. The Actual Lid and a thin layered skin around the entire assembly. It actually turns out pretty darn nice.

It is rather difficult with my phone, but here is the best I can do.

Interesting! Must be something in the slicer doing that. Show us a pic!

This is an issue with your simplify3d settings, the stl has no "lid". Check your preview before you print to make sure it looks correct.

Are you using this as Octopi connected to your printer or are you just using the Pi to monitor your print like a PC or laptop away from the rig? If you're watching the printing in Octopi while it's connected to the printer, how are you getting the UI to display? I've been trying to figure that part out and I'm coming up empty.

Hi, i have the same screen like you but i dont get manage to start touchui.
Every time it stops with touchui startup failed. Can you give me a Image of your
Sdcard or some instructions?

So if you want to use touchui, so don´t update to Octoprint 1.3.9
No Problem with 1.3.8,
My last problem is to invert x and y axis

Hi , I like your design sadly I was not able to turn my WiN 10 IOT ( all ways to rotate not worked no one knows why) ( WIN 10 IOT was not my idea) is there any chance for a turned Version ? also step files would work than I woud change it and send you turend files back ( no puplishing from my side)

Think about if print in Mirror would work ? sure the screwing pints need to cut out and to glue new ones but is there enough space on the top for the connectors and power

So i tried to print 3.1v tonight and while making the brim it would stop in the middle of it and just pool filament under the nozzle. I thought there might be something wrong with my printer so I tried a different print just a calibration cube and it printed fine. I tried to print this again a second time and it did the same exact thing. I am using a CR-10 all settings are correct Hot end at 210 bed at 50 print speed at 30 .02 of layer .8 for shell thickness. As soon as it goes to make the curve on the back it craps out this is on the base with the holes on top I have not tried the one without the holes. I wanted to let you know maybe you can see something I don't.

Hi, the stl is clean, and just tried slicing it up again with no issue, but I have run another stl from the main file to see if you have any luck with that. (attached)

I have also sliced the "with holes" model in to gcode for you with 4 top layers, 3 bottom layers, 3 shells, 0.2mm layer height, 220C nozzle, 50C bed, 0% infill and added support over 45 Degrees.
You will need to trim the extrusion multiplier though, I have set it to .97 for now. Speed is set to 2400 mm/min with 70% printing (1680 mm/min), infill and support at 1920 mm/min.

Shout if you want any of these values changed, and I will change the gcode for you. :)

Thank you for responding with the files. Im not sure what I did wrong with the first set of files I downloaded but these files worked fine so far. Im currently 13 hours in to the print and all is going well. I will update when finished.

Just run this through S3D and it slices without an issue. What slicer are you using? Does it look OK in the preview?
I will run the "with holes" version through a cleaner and post here directly within 15 minutes.
Bear with me.

Hey people!

I am going to print this off tomorrow after a voltage reg cap repair on my CR10 in the morning. I will let you know when I kick it off, and what the end fitment is like.
If there are any issues, I will post up here, orr if it is ready to rock!

Would love to hear any ideas you would like implemented, so get commenting. :)


Printing now, so I will let you know about fitment later today. :)

There are a few issues I need to sort out with fitment.
As soon as I have an update, I will let you know, but the first draft is 95% of the way there.

Issues to sort:
Cable management needs to be taller in size.
Unit needs to be raised up to allow micro USB cable to fit in without poking out the bottom.
Board standoffs need to have a deeper and slightly smaller hole in them.
Screeen - some numpty put the screen cutout for the ribbon cable on the wrong side. :D I will sort that and also trim the wedge fit part of the screen as it is too tight to fit with the screen on and needed trimming down by half.

Apart from that, it is nearly there.

Thanks for your patience, and I will update you as soon as it is done. Hopefully today or tomorrow latest. :)


OK, so I binned V2 and made a V3. This is going on to print tonight in about an hour so will be finished in about 24 hours - I will let you know how the fitment works out on this one.
I used screen modelling this time to get a much better fit, and also stuck to real basic poly shapes to keep the poly count down. End result is a MUCH cleaner model with crisp sharp edges.

14 Hours printing time to go. Looking MUCH better than V2 already!

Will update the thing as soon as I can confirm fitment. :)