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daGHIZmo

EEZYbotArm MK3

by daGHIZmo Apr 19, 2018
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Hi,
Amazing project!
Can you please explain how the gripper is connected to the servo, so that the servo can move it?

Hi,

Thank you for the great project :-)
Should support be used when printing the parts? From what I can see it looks like the two bottom parts will need support.

Thanks

The gears for the arms do not work . It keeps slipping and does not operate the arm. is there another design for the gears for the 2 stepper motors either side ?

EBA3_003 need hole thru part or not ? Maybe you can upload .stp assembly file ?

Please make its GRBL based firmware so that we can control it using gcode... It will be very helpful for robotics students like me to control it using X Y coordinates....
This is the grbl based stepper version of your MK2 design : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2520572
but I want to make your MK3 version robotic arm and control its using the same way (GRBL, GCode Sender, etc) as he does in the stepper motor version MK3.
Can you help me ?

Robot Arm MK2 Plus (Stepper Motor in Used)

Currently building this. I plan to make it WiFi-connected, and constantly rotatable. For this I am thinking I'll use an ESP8266 as the main controls, plus a remote Arduino attached to the rotating base via a slip ring. This limits the slip ring to 3 wires (5v, 0v and 1-wire signalling). I've also increased the size to make the most of my print area. If I get it working, I'll post it as a remix. Once that's done, I'll have to find an actual use for it. Any suggestions?

I printed all the parts and try to assemble the arm. It seems that I will manage except the parts between the servo and the two arms. I have no clue. Looking at the MK2 there are two additional parts. Are these parts missing in MK3? Unfortunately the pictures showing only the upper part of the servo. Anyway, many thanks for the design.

thanks for your job and your time.
my robot are finish.
In order to move it, can you say me the program you use, can you upload it?
thanks

some simple instructions would be nice. I have 4 left over parts I have no idea where they are supposed to go :) (and the arm is functional)

Also, what driver board are you using to control the motors?

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Sent from 3D Geeks: Thingiverse Browser for Android

what advantage does this have over the EEZYbotARM mk2? is the payload weight higher on this because of the stepper motors?

Mk2 is bigger than mk1 and mk3 - it has bigger work area and higher payload theoretically. But no numbers for you, we was make only mk3. Real numbers of payload also depends on assembling quality, used bearings and shafts.

Why so small? The 28BYJ-48 motors are just as strong as the servos on your MK2, from my experience, and I'd have thought it would be EEZY to just make a few changes to that one to accomodate the steppers but retain the overall size.

Can we look forward to a MK4 that is as big as (or bigger than) the MK2, with the 28BYJ-48 motors?

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EBA_7 looks like different in the files, what's wrong?
And where's the instructions?

Nice project, thank you. My printer was with a nozzle of 0.4 mm and I couldn't achieve resolutions to print well the small gears. I also have a 0.3 nozzle, I changed the nozzle and now the printed gears works great! Since most printers have a 0.4mm nozzle, would be nice to have a warning on the description, or, if possible, to offer larger gears to be printed with larger nozzles.

Regarding the stepper motors; you can use "Full Step" pin sequences for full torque instead of modifying the motors. This YouTube video goes into detail about how and why: https://youtu.be/B86nqDRskVU
The video creator also published sample code on Github: https://github.com/BretStateham/28BYJ-48

do you have done any torque/lift test on the arm with these little motor ?

Nice model. Any way to break to base into two pieces that snap together? I have a MP Select Mini V2 and build platform is only 120mm cubed.

Thanks

split them with your slicer and then glue them together :)

This is such a cool design. Congratulations! I'm not that much into code, so I would like to ask something. Is there a way of programming the arm, so that you can command movements to the tip of the tool (gripper) instead to the individual motors? To achieve linear a precise movements on the gripper.

Kind regards!

There are different ways to do that. Just search for "Inverse Kinematics" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inverse_kinematics

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Hi eezy,

this is VEEEEERY interesting and I really wanna make this.

Can I ask u some tips? I have a prusa I3 proB similar to yours and I prefer to use PLA. Is PLA in the making video?
I have problems in areas as in the EBA_003 that is the basement. Because I saw in the video that u didn't use supports but if I do that, it don't print well.. I obtain a surface irregular and deformed. I print too much fast?? (80 mm/s. With bed T=60° and the extruder T is 200°)

Can you give me some tips with your parameters?? I use REPETIER-HOST with CuraEngine.

Thank you and NICE WORK!!!!

A.

You can print with supports if necessary, but its designed so that you dont have to. To be safe try 40 mm/s. ;)

good job.
I have all your robot, MK1, MK2 and now MK3.
Its a great job, for student, because have a low cost and in places as Africa, student can use it.
I finish to mount this MK3, but have only one problem with servo movement. How move pin.
Can you upload a photo of this mecanical part.? Where you use piece "EBA3_015"?

Thanks

This is mny first time trying to make a robotic arm. Just a quick question. Parts 10 and 14, do I have to drill a hole all the way through them? I mean it looks like they have to be attached to the main arm (EBA3_001). I am assuming I get a long screw and it goes through 10, 14, 1, and 4?

I also would like some clarification on this. Any pics or explanation? Thanks.

Did you solve the Problem? I'm also interested to know how to assemble parts 10 and 14

I am assembling the arm and noticed the same thing. I think a hole needs to be made in 10 so that an M4 x 25mm threaded rod, or an equivalent pin, can be pushed through. In the "Tests" video you can see the rod/pin from the 10 side.

Just to update. I purchased a 4mm x 25mm pin and after drilling a hole in piece #10 I was able to push the pin through and it fit perfect, especially with the 604 bearing. I also made a smaller hole on the other side in #14 so I could push the pin out. If you are in the USA, the pin can be found on Amazon and the bearings I found for a good price at RCBearings.com.

I'm working on the assembly of this robot. Where is the 604 bearing located?

The #10 piece has two versions; one with an opening for a 604 bearing and one without.

Hi,
your design models are very amazing
Thank you for sharing them.

Mauro

I print out the parts of the aperture is wrong, I want to get the source of this document, so that I can better modify the aperture,I am looking forward to getting your help。My Email is [email protected]

I love your design, I printed a MK1 for my 3 & 5yr old last Christmas. I'm loving the use of these steppers too!

My only disfavor for the design is I see the bolts as largely unecessary. on my christmas build I used some old nails and hotglue. My thought is, a 5-8mm D-shaped printed cylinder, layed flat when printing, is plenty strong for these light-weight designs, and printing plastic is way cheaper than a box of various metric hardware. So... would you be willing to put out a design with larger holes and these D-shaped cylinders? Specifically a D-shaped cylinder with a D-shaped head, and tight fit washer shaped press on "nuts". I also have a quite small, printed side laying, threaded bolt/nut print that you might find better than the D-shape cylinder idea... I'll try and post a thing of both of these in the next few days.

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Nice update! Cool.

It's design looks really pretty and refined

thanks you for this amazing design,
thanks for sharing.
regards

Finally! I have been waiting for the release for a few months now :))
Now to get making it.
What do you think about using a nodemcu for the microcontroller and using it untethered, via the blynk app or something like that?
I'll post if I manage to get it working as described.
Thanks again! You rock!