Hose Clamp - Pinch Valve

by Tim_C Aug 13, 2012
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Printed at 140% with pla and then annealed it. It works.

But the two upper notches should be enlarged so one could also hold it more open. The way it's now the two last notches doesn't serve a purpose?

Will this work on a pressurized hose, or is it more to stop a gravity system?

Using it on a pressurized hose myself, not very high pressure tho (its from a wiperfluid pump).

Can you upload a STEP file?
It looks like my slicer is breaking it in half for some reason.

Edit: after importing to my CAD software and exporting to .DXF, the file is now slicing correctly. I don't know what caused that.

Don't try this in PLA; for me the material was not string enough; will re-print in ABS when I have some. (I will use it for irrigation, but also need to find some more flexible pipe - the thin black pipe doe not 'bounce back' from being compressed).

Looks perfect for the ends of drip irrigation systems also.

My 'from the store' piece just broke, very happy to find this. Printing as I type :)

I printed mine on its side instead of upright, and it seems to be working well. It required a bit of work with an exacto knife and a hot air gun to get the moving, but it wasn't any too difficult. That was likely my printer's problem. It tends to print a tad wider than it should.

Great part! Source files are always nice, as STLs are hard to edit!

I am currently using a licence of the software I use (I think you know the one) from a friends work. I just can't afford it myself. I don't want it coming back to him.

Does software embed the licence code in the files somehow? Another friend got a 'cease and desist' email from said company, he thinks because he uploaded a file from an illegal copy.

Or am I just being paranoid? :-D

I was just going to say that! FreeCAD is buggy at times, but if you stick to PARTS and some limited mirroring and arrays you can make it work. I'm willing to help if you get stuck somewhere.

Great thanks for the file! I service 3D systems Z printers and needed clamps for removing the binder tanks.... I just removed the upper notches to allow more space between the 2 walls, they served no purpose any way other than binding the 2 walls together?

I added them as I was still experimenting with it and wasn't sure how many notches I needed. It printed separated on my UP! but someone below said it printed connected as well. Whatever works for you, thats why I put it up... Glad you could make use of it. I am at UNI doing design so it is really good to hear.

does it need support to print?

should I rotate it 90 degrees and print it on its side?

I just got done printing it flat like in the picture. Check out the "I made one" picture.

Question #1 - Why did is this printed in the compressed state?

Quesiont #2 - How to I break it free?...Weeeeeeeee!

I am glad it worked out for you. I designed it in the compressed state so there wasn't too much stress on the abs. If was printed 'open' by the time the plastic bends around into the fully locked position it has undergone a pretty severe bend.

I left enough space for it to be printed without touching. Just bend back the tab and it should come out.

I finally got it open, but for me I needed a knife. works great though! Thanks.

Good to hear. Maybe I should adjust the tolerance a little...