Wanhao Duplicator 6 - Dual 40mm Fan Mount and Ducts

by PXP11 Apr 2, 2018
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Hi, first of all. This is a great work. Looks wonderful, i printed in PETG with Carbon.

I am using a silicon boot. The left fanduct is very close to the boot. Can you offer a left fanduct that gives 2-3 mm more space ?

Greetings from Germany

Doesn't the "Left Duct Skinny Remix" version work for you?

Hi, not really. I tried to print the "Left Duct Skinny Remix" and there are holes (one up to 2mm) in the wall. I have to fix it in Tinkercad.
Maybe my Slicer is "not gooD". I use Cura 4.1

Update: Sorry, found the problem. I use 0.5 nozzle, this is too big. If i take the 0.4 nozzle the are no holes.

How do you connect the fans into the Extruder? Do you put the 2 pin connector into the Extruder Panel (i think one or two are not used)

Just use the connection of the old cooling fan. That way you can also control the fan speed.

Comments deleted.

It is possible to use this dual fan solution with the side covers?
Thank you.

I have it installed with the lexan sides and there's been no problem. With the stock fan, the covers actually retained too much heat and my PLA was warping. So far, the double fans seem to have helped with that so I don't have to take them off when printing lower temp filaments and I can keep the cat out of the print area.

I had an issue with the homing process not being able to complete as the mount hit the machine. I bent the X and Y homing switch levers out just a bit and it fixed the problem. Thank you for this, it solved the overwhelming majority of my printing problems with this printer.

Have you found that the fan mount is overly affected by heat or just the fan ducts? I am thinking of having this printed professionally out of a thermal resistant plastic but it's very expensive so I thought I might just try and do the ducts. Excellent design BTW my favorite that I have seen so far!

I printed mine in colorfabb CF-20 carbonfibre reinforced co polyester. There is a little deformation on the left duct but it will be way cheaper if you just print a new one once it's too much for you.

Hi thanks for your great work! I'm having issues trying to get the fans connected in series, I'm really lost at this step. Am I suppose to cut the yellow cable from the Noctua fans and only use the red and black cables? Are you using the OmniJoin adaptor in any way? What cables go to the 3M Skotchlok connector and what to do with the other cables? I hope you can help me. Thanks again!

Hi there. Just made a easy to understand scheme, just for you. :D No, I don't use the OmniJoin in any way. The only connector you need is one of the 2-pin type. It's like the one from the old parts cooling fan. If you have a really small flat head screwdriver you can pry (push down on the tabs and pull out) the tiny litte crimps on the end of the wires out of the original 3-pin Noctua connector and put them into a 2-pin. Just make sure you dont over bend them in any way or they might not hold inside the new connector housing. And yes just cut the yellow wires. I think they are for noise suppression or something... not really useful on a 3d printer ^^ and you dont have a slot to put them into so...

So after installing the mount in the printer, I hit Head Home and it gets stuck and I got this error in the printer display: "ERROR - STOPPED X or Y switch broken". It seems there's not enough room for the new mount. Is there anything I need to do? Thanks.

Well mine had no problem at all, there is at least 5 mm space all around in the home position, after all I designed it that way. On reason may be that Wanhao changed the position of their limit switches or they have less space in the top frame. Now there are those white plastic sleeves which extend outward of the carriers. They are responsible for activating the switches. If you now move the printhead by hand until it reaches the physical limit, you can see how much space is left between the switch and the white thing. If it's like 1mm try adding O-Rings. I have a row of them on my Y-axis because of the bondtech extruder. But I installed that after the fanmount so there should actually be enough space.

Thank you very much for this, it was very helpful! I was able to connect the wires properly and now I just need to put it in the printer.

Do you still use that horizontal fan mounted on the head? Do you know what it is cooling?

If we are talking about the upper fan over the heatsink then yes of course, this is likely the most important fan of the whole printer. It directs airflow through said heatsink which is clamped directly over the melting zone of the hotend. This is called the "heat brake". It prevents heat from going further up the printhead and makes it possible to perform retraction moves. If the heat was allowed to go further, then eventually the filament would be soft and the feedsystem will compress it inside the guide channel of the printhead, which will result in a colgged extrder mess.
The lower former parts cooling fan with its duct however has to be demounted for the 2-pin connection to be used with the noctua mount. And it's no longer necessary of course.

Love your design and love the quality, but i want this to work with my turbofans. Is it possible you upload the .step files? Would be even nicer if you can include the carry and bars (like in your 3D pictures). When i'm done with the turbofan cooler, i will be sure to give you credit for the design and all measurements. Thanks in advance.

I Just uploaded the .step file. I'm just warning you right now... it's complete rework V3 and V20 of the file so it's not my proudest cad-work (might be quite messy). Also if you use Fusion360 here is the linkt to download it: https://a360.co/2CPNbTF

Are you able to include a mount area for a regulator as the voltage is for 24volt I am thinking about ordering some Noctua fans and carbon fiber to look just like yours. It is so beautiful. But let me just say it looks great. Right now this is one possible upgrade for me or possible a bondtech bmg clone if I can get a mount to make it work.

Just put the two 12V fans in series as described in the post-printing tab. And I'm using the Bondtech BMG myself now and there is no interference with the mount at all.

I made a video of the build. Worked out well and my print quality is excellent.


I will probably print it again to get the fan holders printed better, but as is, it will work just fine :)

Thank you for the extra publicity. I really don't want to be this guy but please respect the terms of the creative commons licence: https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/
It would be ok by me if you just gave the attribution to the thing here on thingiverse with a link in the video description. This would also help the people who see the video tho find the fanmount and print it themselves. Thanks in advance.

Just built mine out of ABS and installed. Very nice design although the left duct is already melting due to the close proximity to the hot end. I do not have an insulator on my hot end and maybe that would help?

Yes indeed but I don't have one either. What may help is to print one out of PETG / CPE and take a dark color (black is the best choice here) to radiate the heat in to the cool air flow from the fans. Also the hotend should not be heated up for long periods of time without the fans running, this hels too.

Is there any way to make a version that points the ducts a little closer nozzle? I'm trying to get the best bridging possible, and if I can cool the plastic as soon as it comes out and solidify it, maybe I can print a lot of things without supports.

amazing design though, I am using the setup currently, its a significant upgrade already.

How is this performing with the Noctua's? any cooling issues?

With the fans itself no, not at all. For holding the temperature on the hotend I turn the fans off for the first layer, 60% at the second and after that 100%. I tuned my pid settings slightly but they where still the factory settings so they where quite off.

Hi, I finally got around to printing a modified version of this shroud. Do you just run the upper fan (above the heatsink) stock and leave the heatsink hole open? Did you notice any adverse affect on the heatsink efficiency with the lower fan removed?

On of my first actions I did was installing the Micro Swiss all-metal hotend including the better heat sink. So i don't konow if this info helps but with the hotend at 265°C the heatsink is about 30°. Just a little warm to the touch.

This is a work of of art! The fan positioning is just awesome! Great Job! Going to try this one first ;-)

This looks BEAUTIFUL! And the directions! Wow! I'm still waiting for a few parts to come in to get my printer functional again, but I'll definitely let you know my results!

Great design, unfortunately with a Flexion extruder it won't work. Any plans on upgrading and incorporating it into the Flexion mount?

Upon reviewing some pictures online, I think it's possible. But the best solution would be to integrate the flexion mount into my design :D. No seriously. I hobe you are no using the mount provided by flexion itself because it's kind of ugly. As far as i can tell, they use the same mounting locations as my design. Correct me there if I'm wrong. An easy way would be to take all the functional dimentions from their mount and build the dual fan mount around it, make it one part. And ,also correct me here if I'm wrong, those would be the mounting holes of the aluminum block and the diameter and length of the part which goes into this block.

Completely agree. This is my first printer and I just received it a few days ago, first thing I did was order nocuta fans (they arrived yesterday) and decided today to go ahead and get the Flexion. I have no experience with 3D modeling either but after I saw the Flexion mount I downloaded Fusion 360, if nothing else I was going to clean up the design. It does used the same mounting locations and if they had actually made that feed tube round it would only add the "diameter" of that piece. For everything I've read its a great extruder, but I certainly down't understand why they didn't spend more time on the mount design.

Maybe if you did not order yet, there is still some hope left... There is also a bondtech extruder kit available for the D6 so maybe also give that a look if you havn't desided yet. Otherwise I'll have a closer look and come up with a sketch of sorts. We'll see...

Would you be willing to make a new design with the Flexion mount incorporated into it? I'd be willing to pay for that if it is not too much trouble.

I checked it out before choosing the Flexion, it looks like a nice upgrade but doesn't handle flexible filament that well. The Flexion bundle with the swappable HT hotend seemed like a better option (despite the mount design).