Loading
Valandar

Game Case Book

by Valandar Apr 3, 2018
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

Is it impossible to print it with an Ender 3?

Sadly, I think it is. If you cut it up, it loses a significant amount of structural integrity.

70% scale fits

But it makes the various compartments smaller - I would think it would now be too small for most miniatures to fit in the bottom segments, and too narrow for a tablet to fit in the bottom slot.

Comments deleted.

That actually might be a cool tool kit

Wow, this is awesome, and this is OK for commercial with attribution?

I am going to print this out, and I am going to bring it back to Uni

What orientation did you print this in? My cr-10 cant fit main box part on the build plate when it is lying down.

Really? Is it a CR-10 or CR-10 Mini? I printed this in the orientation of the files (except the inner lid, the half-width piece to cover the dice tower part).

It's a standard cr-10. What slicer are you using?

I'm using Craftware. But the total dimension is barely over 11 inches in the longest dimension, it should fit at nearly any angle, that's barely 290 mm...

At last, I have found the issue. I didn't realize that I had skirt enabled. Cheers!

Ahh, that would do it. Honestly, very possibly except for the latches, none of the parts need a brim or skirt, they have almost too much surface in contact with the bed as it is. :D

A few quick questions before I start printing. What layer height did you use? Did you generate any support? Roughly how much filament did it take to print?

I used 0.2mm layer height, I felt the nearly double amount of contact between layers (and thus durability) was worth the extra time; I generated support under the tablet slot of the main body and the dice tower openings; under the face of the lid because the hinges stuck down below a few mm; and on the latches. Since I use Craftware, I could remove any support structures that were excessive (like on the engravings of the hinges) after generating it, add a couple spots where it was needed, and THEN slice.

It took about 1 1/2 kilos to print, total... I printed the main body first, and had just enough to print the back cover, then I used a second spool to print the front cover, latches, and 'inner lid'. And yes, that means it took several days to print.

i don't even need this but something is compelling me to make it haha this looks really cool and i cant wait to print it

"I don't even need this... but I can't wait to print it!"
-Everybody who owns a 3D printer
XD

What does the text of the insert say?

I don't remember exactly, but something like "If you can read this, you've spent too much time as a Tolkein fan" :D

haha! Sounds about right.

Would you be willing to share your design files, for adaptation to smaller printers, and different themes? It's a very cool idea, and I'd quite like to have a cyberdeck styled one for Shadowrun.

Well, I did most of the work in Rhino 3D, so there really aren't "design files" unless you have that specific program. :( And then the magic circles and "text" were done using a photoshopped texture map, and inflate/deflate in ZBrush.

You are a hero, sir, and I applaud your efforts!
Now to figure out how to print this on my modestly sized printer…

If you figure out a way, let me know, too! I'd love to print this, but I, too, have a printer smaller than the CR-10.

What printer did you use to print that huge thing?

I printed it on a CR-10, actually. The final measurements are about 288mm x 230mm x 106mm (once assembled). The bed size really needs to be over 295mm x 235mm for comfort's sake.

Dang, I'll have to find a way to print it in pieces. It won't fit my Prusa MK3.

I'll watch here to see if you find a way, and I'll work at it myself. If you figure it out, please let us all know. I've got a MPMSv2 that I'm running now.

There is a possibility... If you chop it up into sections, you could use a dremel or pin vice to drill holes in the parts, and use lengths of wire as pins to maintain stability, then epoxy or chemically weld it. I don't think it would be as strong as single solid parts, though.