Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

CORE A8. (Anet A8 Core XY Conversion).

by IIZEROXII Apr 3, 2018
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What parts need supports? I started the dual Z motor/rod mount but wondered if it needed support. Thanks!

Hi does this also work with stock anet a6?
Are the lengths the same of the axis?

Do you Have the A6? Could you tell me the lengths?

Found them.
4 x W8 length = 380mm.
2 x W8 length = 436mm.

I am currently on vacation i will check in some days thanks for reply

Hi, I have the possibility to build the welded frame, can you give me precise measurements with 25mm and 20mm profiles?
I think the total measurements are more than 540x440x400, if I look at the file frame_corner_x8.stl we see that the aluminum bar does not reach the other bar.
Thank you very much and sorry for my English, I'm using the translator

Yes that gap at the end is 5mm so you would need to add 10mm to each frame piece.
You might want to look at the Facebook group there is a NEW VERSION coming out soon witch is a better design and lest printing and smaller overall size but same print volume.

Thank you very much!!!

You have the assembly video, but I can't find the print version of the instructions that are in the video. Am I missing something or have you not provided that? I think that would be incredibly valuable to have printed out during installation.


Didn't think anyone would want to print it out. No one has asked either.

Consider this a request. I guess I'm just old school. Also, would you provide an export of the entire assembly? Parasolid is preferred, but step or iges also work.

Good afternoon.
I'm going to ride this machine from scratch, you'd have the parts list you say "all the parts of the Anet A8"?

Well, I went to pick up my square tubing and when I got there the only th8ng they had was rounded edges. I’m not able to get straight edges locally. They also cut to length for me at no charge. I’ve fit them into the corner pieces without issue. I’ve also looked and can’t seem to find to much info on the rounded edges. Is it ok to continue with the rounded edges or are there any printed parts made for rounded edge tubing?

Should be ok. As long as there are 4 flat sides I can't see it being a problem.

I didn’t think it would be. Has there been any thought about making the parts for the rounded edges? If I had any idea on how to do that I’d try. I can’t even work the simplest projects in and of those programs.

Nar. The remixes I have done are because there was a lot of people asking for that type.

So not many asking for this? Is it an option for you to consider?

Guys I can do the Z axis from 54 cm to 50 cm Thank you

Yes making the Z axis shorter is euasy because the whole carriage assembly is able to move up and down so you'd just have to lower it more. Watch the build video and you'll see. You can also cut the Z frame shorter do you want have extra space.

Ok,but version on video is more stable ? I have cut alu profile to existing version and see video. You make great job ...

No, it's not. It wobbles too much and sags on the unsupported end.

Can You share parts for Build_Plaet_Mount like on video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gciJZAEiVJM 20mm frame .
I will buy extra 8 mm rods and will be more stable if is on two side. There is some reason You change for existing version.

That setup didn't work with the stock parts. Check the remixes man if you want to buy more rods there is a setup like that

What are you doing with the firmware to make this function properly? i imagine marlin set as an Anet would not work at all.

It's actually very simple.
You do set marlin to Anet A8.
Then change the printer type.

//============================= Mechanical Settings =========================

// @section machine

// Uncomment one of these options to enable CoreXY, CoreXZ, or CoreYZ kinematics
// either in the usual order or reversed

define COREXY <========This one,

//#define COREXZ
//#define COREYZ
//#define COREYX
//#define COREZX
//#define COREZY

Then reverse the Z direction

Oh wow. Never would have thought it'd be so simple.

Yeah, join the Facebook Group ask other people what they did to get it to work too?

Was considering it but haven't decided which way I want to go with modding. You said you used 25.4mm tubing for the structure, I'm guessing that means you actually used 1" square tubing for the build?

Join and have a look at other things people have done give you more of an idea

just a quick question, would you be okay if I created some step files or an onshape file of the parts as tolerances for these metals are about .25 mm so when we purchase the bars the measurement for the holes don't always match up and resizing in the slicer changes the mounting holes sizes and placement, thanks in advance.

just a quick question, would you be okay if I created some step files or an onshape file of the parts as tolerances for these metals are about .25 mm so when we purchase the bars the measurement for the holes don't always match up and resizing in the slicer changes the mounting holes sizes and placement, thanks in advance

Hello, I realized after buying all the aluminum, which has a tube more 440mm behind. This piece "Y_Frame_Mount_X4.stl" must be printed 6 times. this is correct? They are Horizontal X Tube 440mm x 5 = 2200mm, All together 7500mm. This piece gives more strength to the structure.

No you don't need that one at the back. I just had extra parts left over from designing. I used it only to run the wiring inside of it.

The model "Y_Frame_Mount_X4.stl" is missing the holes for the screw. Thank you very much for this incredible conversion, I am putting it together and I do not have anet a8.

I have fixed this.

Yes it is, not sure why no one has said anything about it yet.

I printed it and I noticed later. if you can add it I thank you, I have no design knowledge. Thank you.

You can drill new holes iff you don't want to reprint it.

Do you have a front cover for the electronics enclosure? In the middle of printing and have noticed this is missing from the files. Thank you!

Your project is inspiring! I am in the process of printing out your parts.
I'd like to know how the Bowden set up is working for you vs. a direct drive.
It looks like the taller your print is, the higher your angle on the tube. I love the Bowden for decreasing carriage weight, but there are potential drawbacks to it as well. Just wondering... that's all.

There is lots of information on bowden vs direct on the internet that is no specific to this build. Main benefit is print speed really.

Since the bed moves down as the objects gets higher the bowden/extruder will always be the same.

Ummm, yeah... :( I don't know why that didn't go through my head. In my defense, I hadn't been up long enough yet.

I have a question with the square tubes that support the bed, how long are they ?, because in a description it says 370mm x 2 = 680mm. But it gives me 740mm total. I calculate by placing my printed pieces on a table and calculating the 440mm of distance X and they are of a length of 360mm. You can tell me the correct distance by measuring your.

Ha no one has noticed that befor. 370mm is correct I just added it up wrong.

anyone done a titan aero mount for this?!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Great project. I already built the whole thing. I only miss the fan duct, I cant find this between your files or the V2 files.

If you are talk about the hotend fan I didn't make one. The E3D-V6 comes with one.

No, i mean the fan duct too cool the PLA after its printed. The orange part in the attachted picture.

Oh that's because this carriage can use any of the part coolers that work with the stock Anet A8.

Allright didn't noticed that, I have an A6 and those didn't fit but now I see the similarities with the A8 fan ducts. Thank you for replying.

This is awesome! I was going to build a hevo but 1" aluminum tube is much cheaper and easier to source and this build requires only a few extra parts in addition to my sacrificial tronxy X3. Do you have a step file of the assembly you'd be willing to share?? Id love to be able to mod some parts and just get a sense of what I'm going to need to build the size I want. Thanks for the work on this!!

Hey thanks. Jump on the Facebook group. Lots more info on there and pictures and plenty of people to ask questions about the build..

the extra 6 idlers are they smooth 20T, 5mm diameter?! I don't have Facebook and can only reference this page and just wanted to double check.

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

20 teeth ones, mate.

This only uses 2 smooth idlers, the rest all have teeth. I didn't have smooth ones so just used the same toothed idler for all of them (http://a.co/d/9Rs6nB7). The belts take a 90˚ turn in a couple places with the back (smooth) side of the belt against the idler.

So i should be ordering 6x toothed 20T 5mm idlers, is that right, since i have two already on the printer for x and y.


Just re-read the response, so i need;
2x smooth,
4x toothed

All of the bolts are 3mm so I'd get the 3mm ID ones.

3mm, thanks

so I'm good to order the 2x and the 4x of the smooth and toothed?

He has a link in the details to the idlers.

link just shows a generic eBay page with drop-down menus to select which idlers, the page doesn't list the specific idlers, I found someone on discord who done the conversion, but recommend the 16T instead

Right. I got the 20t 3mm from the link I posted above and used with this belt: http://a.co/d/5C5cw6m

Much appreciated, thanks

Yo need 6 toothed ones. The smooth ones come from the anet a8.

Hi, great project and documentation!
I believe we need 32 spacers if we use 20mm or 25mm tubes, right ? (16 tubes x 2ends).

Also, what are the final outside dimensions ? Trying to figure if it would fit in my enclosure :p

Thank you

Yeah plus all the mounts need em too.

nice project, can u upload the Sourcefiles in .step or .igs ?? i want to build a miniature remix of it, and have to resize any parts.


I bought some square metal pipe from HD, they only had 48" and 36" so I got 4 of each. Been trying to come up with best "cut list" and found this tool online: http://cutlist.dotordotdot.com/current

Here's what it came up with:

1) 4' (48in), 2 pieces, 0.25in waste, 5.23in scrap
1.1) [z] (21.26in)
1.2) [z] (21.26in)

2) 4' (48in), 2 pieces, 0.25in waste, 5.23in scrap
2.1) [z] (21.26in)
2.2) [z] (21.26in)

3) 3' (36in), 2 pieces, 0.25in waste, 1.11in scrap
3.1) [y] (17.32in)
3.2) [y] (17.32in)

4) 3' (36in), 2 pieces, 0.25in waste, 1.11in scrap
4.1) [y] (17.32in)
4.2) [y] (17.32in)

5) 4' (48in), 3 pieces, 0.375in waste, 0.375in scrap
5.1) [x] (15.75in)
5.2) [x] (15.75in)
5.3) [x] (15.75in)

6) 4' (48in), 3 pieces, 0.375in waste, 0.375in scrap
6.1) [x] (15.75in)
6.2) [x] (15.75in)
6.3) [x] (15.75in)

7) 3' (36in), 2 pieces, 0.25in waste, 6.61in scrap
7.1) [bp] (14.57in)
7.2) [bp] (14.57in)

Hey. That all sounds good. Did you have a question you wanted to ask or are you just sharing the info?

Sorry, just sharing info in case anyone else was trying the same thing. I'd be happy to delete the comment if you don't think it adds anything.

All. Good man.

I've started printing this, trying to separate out what needs to be printed and what is optional. Got to "legs_corner" and while printing it reviewed these screenshots and notice it's listed a "if you want legs". Just curious what that means ... to make it taller or something?

Loved how the frame_corner printed without supports.

Those parts are designed so you can put the frame right through them to make legs for the printer. Someone asked for them so that there was room underneath for their electronics.

what a great design. <3

how many grs the whole print weight ?

I'm not sure exactly but some people on the Facebook group have said about 2kg of filament

s3d 25% infill. supports.. 3 walls 5 top. 5 bottom. 2.63kg.. sounds about right :)

Firmware doesn't decompress...
EDIT: om Mac use "The Unarchiver" ...zipppp...done!

Can you modify this to use EMT conduit instead of the square tube?

Take a look at the U-conduit, H-bot. See info below:
U-Conduit original designer/Engineer: UConduit H-Bot 3D Printer / Reprap by iquizzle, published June 13, 2013

UConduit H-Bot 3D Printer / Reprap

Sorry that would require a lot of work and I'm not sure if it would work out. This design uses the square sides to stop parts spinning around.

can you share your configuration.h file???

A whole bunch of firmware files are in the download already.

seems the firmware file is broken

The file Build_Plate_Mount_X2.stl is for 25mm and not 25.4mm

Is there anyway you could add an 18mm Sensor Mount for the E3D V6 Hotend Carriage?

All done. Forgot to let ya know. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987953

18mm Capacitive Sensor Mount for the Core A8

Yeah that's would be easy will do it tomorrow for ya.

I didn't find the list with the quantities of parts I have to print out of each one. Is there this list or am I going to need to see the staff photos?

The parts you need multiple of have the numbers required in their name.

Now I understand, AI can I consider that the pieces that have nothing will only be once correct?

Okay, thanks a lot for the attention.

As soon as I have made the machine send pictures.

You are welcome.
Join the Facebook group for help.

What material have you used to print all the pieces?

I'm thinking of doing them all in PETG, what do you think?

Also check out the Facebook group to have a look at others and more information.

I printed mine is ABS. Others have used PLA, PETG anything really is ok. Just recommend ABS or another high temp meterial for the hotend parts.

I got it, I'm going to go check Facebook.

Thank you so much for coming back.

How did you secure the 3D printed parts to the frame?
I can see you used some nuts and bolts but did you secure them from the other side or the inside?
I am want use this idea for a custom printer I am building.


Yes nuts and bolts straight through. Join the Facebook group you'll see pics.

Dear IIZEROXII, I'm going to remix the bottom part of the printer adding 2 linear rods (4 total for the bed) with 10 or 12mm rods instead of 8 to have more rigid structure in z axis lenght upgrade. I think to be autonomous to do that, leaving unused the rod mount attached to z axis motor and using two identical z axis support per rod, one on top and one bottom. Also I can design the bed structure, and after measurement check upload all as a remix on thingiverse if you agree. What I'm not able to do is remix the upper part of the printer (x and y axis) to use 10 or 12mm rod instead of 8, to have less flexion using 500mm or longer rods, may I ask you to remix those last parts? I know that the project no longer will be anet a8 parts only, but with a few bucks more the people can build a larger print from an a8 stock like you've planned. Thanks Riccardo

Sure man you can add a remix no problems. As for remixing the top part for you, that would require a lot of time. I currently don't have time for this.

No problem thanks anyway, I'll make the bottom upgraded and leave the top as is to upgrade in the future. Thanks again for the great design!

what is the total cost off it?

Ask some of the guys on the Facebook group what it's costed them the meterial I got was only 40 bucks the just longer belts and 6 pulleys.

Comments deleted.

Dear IIZEROXII, I've been printing on my Anet a8 heavy modded for a while, now to build bigger objects I was thinking to buy a tronxy x5s but your project really looks good at the right moment. In theory to make the printing size bigger on your coreXY project, we need only to buy longer bearing axis and threaded rods right? (and adapt te frame lenght, heated bed and code of course) Because the electronic and other printed stuff remain the same. Thanks in advance, Regards. Riccardo

Read description. This uses the stock Anet A8 parts. Only needs longer belts and more pulleys. Yes does require firmware modifications.

Thanks, Ive already buy pulley and belt, soon I'll post some picture of the larger frame if anyone need to do the same. Many thanks for sharing this project!

How big are you going to do your build plate.

I'm planning to buy a 410x410 heated bed, and the linear rod for the x and y long enough, I think 500mm but maybe I'll buy 550mm version and cut at the right lenght when the frame is done. For the z axis I'm still thinking on it, because linear rod and screw are up to 1000mm long at human prices but I think to go with 600mm that is more than enough for ordinary and extraordinary print. I think that everyone likes to have a printer that can build a vase up to 1m height, but It needs to fit in my house so I'll resize my expectation during the process :)

I'll see maybe to adopt 10mm rods instead of 8mm to have more rigid structure when the hot ends travel at the center of the rod.

Ok well the absolute max I could gt from the stock rods was 310 so if want to go to 410 you''ll need 100mm more so you would need at leats 480mm rods. If you use the carriage I designed.

Yes for sure I'll use the E3d V6 carriage, on my anet too I still use E3d clone. Now I think to buy the parts separately because there are too many pieces that I'll not use from a new anet, so for me it is cheaper to buy only the electronic. But maybe I can buy a complete kit and keep the spare parts for my current a8 configuration that will not change, I thing I'm going this way.

Please can you adapt the parts for a 20 mm aluminum profile please. Thank you

Yes I can do this but the parts would be really thick.

So... not a chance of using the anet board with this frame. It really would be great if that was possible...

Yes it uses the anet board. Like the description says only things needed are longer belts, some idler pullies and something to make the frame from, everything else is printed or anet parts.

IT IS ?! Man, didin't notice that. I was going to build this (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2818084), but what i really wanted was an frame in witch the build plate didn't move so that i could make some thin tall prints without having to reduce the printing speed. This is just what i need. The only problem is that the square tubes that i can find in Europe is 25.0mm, not the 25.4mm. One thing that would be PURE gold for the anet users, was if your idea and this design could be combined into one... (http://www.instructables.com/id/PRINTTABLE-the-Affordable-Attractive-IKEA-Lack-Tab/). You would get a large Core XY frame costing only 14 euros.

EMT8 - The absolute cheapest metal frame for your Anet A8

There is a remix of this for 25mm square tubing. The rods in the anet printers aren't long enough to make work with the IKEA lack tables.

Thanks. I will look into those. I know that for this to fit the idkea table you would need longer threaded rod and new 8mm rods. But it would save a lot of money on the frame. Thanks for the tip on the 25mm. I am going to start looking into this.

Huh. Have a new printer incoming so kinda want to try this with my A8 rather than just the am8 frame. Always been intrigued by the hyper cube and Corexy setups. Do you recommend doing this? Do you feel it was worthwhile to gain the build volume? I can only assume print quality got better with the rigidity as well as an ability to increase print speed? I wonder how these 25x25mm square pieces compare to 20x20 extrusions. Thanks!

This project was designed mainly as an experiment to see if I could make a Core XY printer with minimal extras out of an Anet A8 and it's something I enjoy doing. I was not looking to improve prints but it is better. The speed hasn't changed much I had my Anet A8 printing at 80mms all the time with a bowden setup anyway. The biggest improvement is the buils size but it requires new bed and the bed i use also requires 30amp PSU. If you have any trouble building the Anet A8 I would not recommend trying this because there is no instructions and requires a lot of work and fine tuning.

Had no trouble building my A8 and already rocking a HP 750e 12v psu that I had for other applications. Never even used the stock psu. Just looking to see if this was worth the time and challenge compared to just sticking it on the same old boring Am8 frame like everyone else does. Thank you for the reply!

Well definitly a good challeng and it does improve the prints. Plus a bigge build volume if you put some more monet in. Go's really good with my electronics enclosure too.

Still waiting for waiting for facebook group approval, in the mean time can you give some brief print quality & speed improvements over the stock anet and HyperEvo/AM8 if possible?

Like the description says there are better ways to build a printer. This project was not done to be better or improve apon the printer. My goal was just to see if I was able to do it using just the stock parts. But a major improvement is the build size. If you want an idea of quality the millennium Falco video shows it pretty good its definitely not worse then the Anet A8.

Where is the Marlin Config.h file to support this build?

Only need to change one thing in it to make it work. Witch is just to tell it it's is a core XY machine now

Really nice work, might give this a try soon. I was wondering though how many teeth your pulleys use. I've replaced some in my A6 already with 20-teeth version, so I would rather have same sized idlers, but I'm not sure the 20-teeth versions would fit?

Hey yes they fit it is what I used. I designed around the largest ones so can use any.

nice job and thanks for sharing ^^ what do you use for alu profile?

Wow forgot to put that in the details. There's a picture of it though. I used 25x25 square tubing.

super cool! now i wanna do this to my monoprice maker select lol

We it is possible if the linear rods are the same lengths as the anet a8 even if they aren't just means you have to make it smaller.

yea i meant doing something similar although it would be nice/save a lot of time if they were the same size lol

Nice one, now to get another A8

Thanks. Yeah I got another printer so did this to my Anet.

Wow, was still editing this.