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mtdjr

Iris Keyboard Case

by mtdjr Apr 14, 2018
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Just gone building my Iris 2.5 with this case. I used Cherry switches so I felt safe disregarding the disclaimer for Matias switches, but oddly enough I had trouble fitting the switches into the thumb switch hole. I spent about half an hour adjusting the PCB to make the switches fit, but in the end I just cut off the PCB mount and got it "good enough".

Also had to trim the gap for the TRRS cable on one of the cases since the edge prevented the case from closing. Since this only affects one side, my guess is I misaligned the PCB when trying to shove the thumb switches in.

Overall, really awesome case! Thank you for sharing your design. I'm a big fan of this versus the open sandwich style and it felts very sturdy.

As a side note, I'm curious as to how you made your case look so smooth?

It look great! My note may have been confusing, I meant that the alignment was off and it may be too small for matias switches. Sorry you had trouble with it. I don’t have a spare pcb to test with so I haven’t been able to update the design. I will upload the fusion files when I can so anyone can work on it.

I got the case smooth with several iterations of sanding, bondo glazing putty, filler primer, gray paint, and finally clear coat.

Hi, just wondering what the nature of the current issues are. Does it only affect Matias switches. Thank you in advanced

What’s been reported to me is that the 2u thumb switch hole is misaligned and may be too big for Matias switches. I put up the notice because I don’t want anyone sending this off and paying for it to be printed and finding the size is wrong. I’ve printed two sets of these myself without an issue. I just haven’t had the time to look at the files and do test prints.

Hey! For anyone building an Iris with Matias switches, just FYI the hole for 2 key thumb column is just wide enough that the Matias switches slide right through. At the moment, I expect I'll be able to just solder them in at the right height, but it was a little sad nonetheless. So, if you're planning on using Matias switches, I'd look at editing the file. Thanks for including the fusion 360 files, OP!

Hi there! I'll probably make this case at some point, though I had a (possibly dumb) question: how do you attach the top and bottom parts? Looking at the preview images, there don't seem to be obvious screw holes. I haven't worked much with 3D printed cases before, so I might be missing something obvious.

The bottom just press-fits to the top. No screws necessary.

I just started my journey into the world of custom keyboards... holy cow I didn't know about this large community out there!!!!

I am waiting for my PCBs to arrive to start the build.

Meanwhile, I have been reading about how to flash and program this beast...I saw that the Ergodox has a very nice UI to the programming... Can that be used to the Iris? Is QMK the only and/or best way to do it?

Thanks for the help! I am for sure be coming back with more dumb questions...

Why are the switch cutouts 15.45x13.85 mm instead of 15.6x14 mm? I was going to send the files to a hub to get them printend, but now I am worried that the finished product will have incorrect measurements.

Those are the dimensions of the original switch plate drawing form Keeb.io's GitHub and I just did an extrusion from that file.

I've built two Iris' from this model without any fitment issues.

Thanks four your quick reply. I see it now. Then it should not be a problem. I'm very excited to finally being able to build my Iris with your fantastic case!

Great! Good luck with the build!

I'm having this printed, for sure. It's very nice.

This case looks excellent! I designed a similar one, without excellent beveling. I'm still doing most of my work in tinkercad though, so ignore me :)

Is there a reason you went with walls-on-plate? This does allow you to put the screws more easily into the bottom for a cleaner look, but it makes soldering a bit tougher - one tiny bump from your iron and you'll saw through it like butter.

Thank you! I highly suggest you start working in Fusion 360; theres a learning curve, but its worth it.

Went with walls-on-plate for a cleaner look and a design that didn't require hardware. Actually, ive used my iron to smooth out parts of a print before, it doesn't cut through the 3 shells of PLA as quickly as you'd think.

Iron!? What I great idea!! Have to give that a try...

mtdjr,

I am thinking about building myself an Iris keyboard, but I'm confused by a few of things:

1) With your case, do you/i still need "plates" (i.e. https://keeb.io/collections/split-keyboard-parts/products/iris-keyboard-case-plates?variant=6689512914974)
2) What key switches are you using? I was planning on getting Cherry Brown MX's.
3) Where did you get your keycaps from? You escape key looks custom! I like it! I would also like to try different color schemes.
4) Is there room for an LED strip?

Thanks for sharing you Iris case on Thingiverse!

g

  1. With this case, the ‘plate’ is integral.

  2. I am using gateron brown switches but you can use any mx or alps switch with the Iris PCB

  3. Key caps are from PrimeKB: https://www.primekb.com/products/dsa-bounty-hunter-for-prime-keyboards-and-40-45-layouts. The escape key is called an ‘artisan’ keycap, you can find that one at https://www.hotkeysproject.com/categories/specter.

  4. You can add an LED strip.

I highly suggest you head to https://reddit.com/r/mechanicalkeyboards and check out the info on the side bar. You can also search for “iris build log” for additional guidance. But beware, the rabbit hole goes deep.

mtdjr,

Great links! Thanks for the info.

The rabbit is deep! lol

g

Do you know if this will work with the choco switches?

I don’t, and I don’t have any to try. You’d have to do some measurements. The edge lip is 5mm tall, so you might need to open the model (f3d file is attached) and shorten it some. The bottom of your keycaps might be lower than the lip.