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Simple kit for transforming your 3d printer to a plotter. It uses 5.5mm diameter metal rod (you can get them as office supplies, they are used as a risers for plastic office paper trays) as a linear rail and 2 small rubber bands to ensure constant pressure even on uneven bed.
It screw in place of hotend and uses a ball point pen or any type of marker/sharpie, or in fact any type of tool with handle that can fit in its hole (a bit under 12 or 16 mm wide) to plot drawings onto your printbed or paper attached to it.
Print with 4-6 walls and 4-6 bottom/top layer for best results.
Print flat on bed with support. Threads in screwholes and hex thumbscrews dont need support, in fact if you print them with support you might end up with 30-40 min of cleanup for only that part.
On Cura you can use this new support subtract tool, on other slicers IDK.
After printing you need to sand down holes where your metal rods will come in, holes in pen carriage needs to move freely but not wobble on those rods, holes in base part needs to be snug fit.
Put your metal rods trought base, insert a pen carriage onto them, and then fit them to bottom rods. I used some super glue to make sure they wont come of.
After that you need to put 2 small and weak rubber bands on both sides on hooks, you need to make sure that they are tight, you want them to bring pen carriage down when you press on it from bottom. If you can move that carriage on metal rods and it stays in place that means eighter holes are too tight or your rubber band is too weak.
After that you need to remove bands, screw that carriage in place of hotend (its possible throught the slot in pen carriage, dont worry), put rubber bands again and put pen in its slot, then use small screws to screw that pen in place tightly. That screw s might break up so print few more than you need. After that your plotter is ready, level the bed (no need to be well leveled), stick some paper to buildplate and feed it proper gcode!
Easiest way of preparing Gcode I found for that purpose is to use cura.
Create new printer for cura and edit end gcode so after print it would lift its head by 3-5 mm before homing, otherwise you might end up with ugly line on your print.
Set up your nozzle size to 0.1 for ballpoint pen or other thin line making devices, you might set it even lower, and if you use marker or something thicker just measure a line thincknes and put it there.
Top and bottom layers to 0 unless you want to have your print fully filled with lines or any pattern.
Set nozzle temp to 20-30 degrees C, that way you dont need to disconnect your hotend and your print wont make it hot as hell and running entire time. Setting that temp to 0 can lead to whole printer not starting plotting because temp was not achived.
If you want your print to not be filled with dense pattern you can use infill as your pattern.
Its very important to enable z-hop on retraction and disable combing mode. Set your zhop height to 3-5 mm and turn on retraction, set your profile so that the printer will retract in any sitiation when possible, layer change, between infill and walls etc itp.
Your drawing speed (or printing speed) can be quite high, I did well with 60mm/s and I did not try anything higher yet.
So thats your slicer setting, now you can set your infill and wall count to whatever you want.
You can print any black/white picture (like tribal pics etc) and any flat 3d models.
In order to give something to work with to cura you need to find or make a flat 3d model, or you can use this website: http://www.df3d.com/extrude to produce such models by yourself Put it flat in cura and then change its z size to a height of one layer then slice.