Original Prusa i3 MK3 ENCLOSURE -Ikea Lack table - Prusa Research

by cisardom, published

Original Prusa i3 MK3 ENCLOSURE -Ikea Lack table - Prusa Research by cisardom Apr 16, 2018
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See the official video:

Follow the Mikolas Zuza's tutorial article on:

Plexiglass dimensions:
3pcs: 440 x 440 mm, thickness 3mm
2pcs: 220 x 440 mm, thickness 3mm

Good luck!


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As a lot of people have noted straight screws into the Lack don't bite well. I am going to be taking mine apart this weekend and trying drywall anchors and see if that helps at all, was wondering if anyone else had attempted that yet.

I ported the handles to OpenSCAD, to hopefully make it easier to tweak the design to use whatever magnets you happen to have on hand (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2922505)

Handles for Prusa enclosure with disc magnets (Redesigned in OpenSCAD)

Hi, I added also a third table and cut-off 18 cm of the feet that the second table top levels with my "normal" table. The IKEA Lack feet are hollow and my floor is not perfectly flat, so I created "Adjustable Feet":

IKEA Lack Adjustable Foot
by Humahua

I added a third table and wanted the extra stability of tieing the corners together. Here is a file that is just for corners with no provision for lexan. Enjoy!

Ikea Ilack Table Interface

Hi there, this looks very nice, can I ask what LED lights you used ad where you got them? Thanks :D

Were are people getting there Acrylic Sheets from? They seem excessively expensive and was hoping someone might point out a better / cheaper option.

I get mine from printed solid website. Its all pre-cut and if you check twitter i think there is a discount code.

I found mine on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/361813670877
This is the cheapest that I found where I didn't need to cut it myself.
Just ordered 2 sheets and provided my measurements.
Came out to around $55 shipped.

I got mine from a local acrylic place. Was like ~$70 cut to exact size. Definitely not super cheap, but should last forever.

Comments deleted.

Great project :)

I had some problems printing the corners and lost one part...
Is it possible to get every part in separate files?
It's not as organized but you can reprint things fast without spending time and material on parts you won't need.

Most all slicers allow for “Splitting” the STL. Which slicer do you use?

Use Slic3r. Once you load the parts use "SPLIT" button to split the group into individual parts. You can then select which parts to delete/keep.

Ok. Thank you!

I will have a look at Slic3r. Never used it before.

Is anyone looking to seal their box?

I'm building this to be able to print ABS, with my main concern being the fumes given off from melting ABS. I've already printed and assembled a HEPA + Carbon filter air scrubber. I want to build this box and seal it (as best as I can) and have the air scrubber inside to clean the air. (As best as possible anyway)

This design leaves a ~2mm gap between the acrylic sides and the Lack tables. I'm looking for some sort of gasket / trim to add to the acrylic walls to create a decent air tight seal. I'm currently in the middle of printing all the required parts and therefore do not have a finished product to measure all dimensions.

So far I've found this trim / seal here: https://www.amazon.com/Trim-Lok-Rubber-Edge-Trim-Push/dp/B00NL49008/ref=pd_sim_60_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00NL49008&pd_rd_r=C97VG6TCRYZFV3G3WZYH&pd_rd_w=v07BD&pd_rd_wg=JCoyX&psc=1&refRID=C97VG6TCRYZFV3G3WZYH Which has a 2.38mm wall, and 7.62m of length. The whole box requires ~7.040m of trim, not including the space between the two front 'doors' - so 7.62m should be just enough.

Does anyone have any other ideas for this besides caulking? And if you have used caulk, which kind would you recommend? Silicone apparently does not stick to the acrylic very well, or at all.

Thoughts, anyone?

If you have a fan that blows air through your filter from the inside of the enclosure to the outside. It will create an underpressure in the enclosure so air will only be going in to the case via the gap.
(If you seal your enclosure so it's airtight, it will create a vacuum after a while, the fan will be working it's ass off and virtually no air will leave the case).

You can easily test if your fan moves enough air by holding a small piece of paper infront of the gap, if it bends towards the enclosure air goes in via the gap and not out.

What I'm trying to say is; that's good to have a bit of a gap :)

Best of luck!

Most Silicone will bond fine. You're hearing it won't because people commonly use both Acrylic and Silicone for Aquariums, but in this case due to water pressure the seal will not hold. As long as it doesn't have any significant pressure on it, a Silicone gasket would work perfectly.

Silicone is commonly used inside Acrylic Aquariums to hold interior panels. Silicone cannot safely be used to seal an Acrylic Aquarium, where you will need actual Acrylic cement. Internal use is okay.

Don't believe me? Check out this video where someone does a strength comparison test on Silicone and Acrylic. Not good enough to seal an Aquarium, but good enough for a grommet blocking only air.

Props, nice work. Worked like a charm for maker select v2.1. Custom made a few parts but great base to work from.

I'm looking to adapt this same setup to my MPMS v2.1 as well. I'm curious - what did you have to change up/customize?


No changes to the enclosure, except I had to do a ton of research on the plexiglass to find the right fit. If you can't find the right thickness, then the support will have to change. I tried online, local hardware stores, local glass stores. I settled on this:

More than what I wanted to spend, but because of the size, I have enough to use on the middle shelf or another one if I get a second printer.

I uploaded more pics here so you can get a better look at the space: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:489984
Not a tight fit at all, plenty of space for a light on the side vs the LED strips.

The only thing I edited was the handles to fit magnets I found at home depot; https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2916725
I did a rush job, so not a perfect fit, not flush, but glued them in

To mount the box below, I had to notch out the back. I took the braces and cable guide from: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2685750
I rotated my heat bed to three point, so the wires are pretty tight with the box completely forward, the box sets back just a bit. Still can see the screen fine.

Spool Holder:

Filament guide:

Door Handles
Wanhao Lack Triple Stack Enclosure Attack: With Sliding Control Box & Removable Top
TUSH - The Ultimate Spool Holder
Ikea Lack filament guide
Original Prusa i3 MK3 ENCLOSURE -Ikea Lack table - Prusa Research

Are there any changes or considerations needed if I were to do this with a MK2S?

The top supports for the legs should've been designed such that the original IKEA double ended screws are used to assemble the leg/top support to the table top itself. 6x50 wood screws do not have enough 'meat' on the thread to bite into the table top with enough grunt to hold the supports square/true. Once you've then screwed the legs on with the 6x20 screws you're stuffed, you cannot tighten up the main 6x50 screw when the eventually work loose.

I simply drilled a bigger hole in the top pieces to fit the ikea screw. It all fits fine.

I managed to use the Ikea double ended screws. First, I attached the upper corner standoffs to the legs with the two screws, then used a pair of pliers to screw the Ikea double ended screw into the leg through the standoff. Then you can screw the leg and standoff into the table like you would normally build the table.

I agree. I just put those in and some of the 6x50 wood screws don't even "tighten" they just keep turning around and the leg stays loose. And even the ones that seem to tighten ok at first are easily "broken" if you use not even much force to tighten them. I would suggest a modification to the design to use 4 screws per leg so that it can't rotate and you don't need to put so much pressure on each screw to make it tight.

Dang. Wish this had been out when I made my Lack enclosure. I love the hinges.

Wondering if someone can clear something up for me. I was trying to load the STP files from this project into fusion 360, but when I do, they end up getting imported at a REALLY tiny scale. Can anyone provide a clue that would help me WAR this issue?

Before you save to STL, change the measurement units.

Great design! This may be slightly too small for the RatRig AM8...Will most likely have to remove the rubber bottom to be able to fit, and that's with maybe 1 cm left at the top for clearance

Could you provide a version of the long door handle magnet holder (with two magnets) with 7mm holes? The 6mm screws always destroy the holder.

any infill on these parts I didn't see you mention this

Hey ,
I have an ender 2 i want to print your work for ... the files are grouped for a larger build bed than i can accomodate...
Are you able to help out with uploading an ungrouped or individual files.. would be appreciated ..
its only the top and bottom corners i cant manipulate ..

thank you for your work

Load the file in Slic3r and then use the "split" button. It will "un-group" the parts and allow you to delete/keep what you want.

Perfect thank you

superbe :)
beau travail j'adore, j'en es pas besoin mais j’apprécie :)

has anyone printed all parts at once? or do i have to slice them into separate parts?

Do they all fit? They’re broken roughly into groups printable in one go on the Mk3. You could squeeze maybe two in but I doubt you’ll fit all the sets at once unless you have a huge bed.

Edit: If they do fit I imagine you’re building an enclosure for a different printer than the one printing them in one go :P

Edit: Here's what it looks like on a Mk3 in S3D. Not even close to enough room to print them all in one go.

What is the inner height?
440mm? Will My Anet A8 fit?

HI the anet A8 is 43cm height, best way, is have a 50cm

Are these the same files as in the video or files based on the video?

On the bottom corner pieces. Are the "cones" that attach to the bottom table supposed to have holes in them for the screws? There's definitely countersunk holes going through them, just not all the way. Is it best to try to drill through this?

Everyone will use a different diameter of screws. That is why the holes are filled. Do not drill them out with a drill bit, but drill through them with a self-tapping screw.

There is a modded remix that punches them through.

No supports needed on any parts?

Prusa control generates supports in some places if I enable it.


I printed it without any support. There are several small bridges. The printer should handle them...


Thanks for this awesome design. I have not started printing it yet but I noticed that for the spool holder not all parts are at the bottom for example the big middle piece. In Prusa Control I notice that the gcode preview doesn't print for all parts on the first layer.

Is this an error or is it by design for some reason?

I opened it up in Slic3r-PE and it is the same. I split them up and then all items align on the bottom layer.


Hello, thank you for comment. No, it is a mistake done while the last update. It should be corrected now;)

Hi, does it fit with a prusa mk3 with multi-material kit ?

According to the article it stated for non mm screws to use #12 2 inch, however I just tried building with #12 and they slide right into the leg holes, need a bigger diameter. Heading to the hardware store now with the screws that come with the lack table to see what size is needed.

I'm trying to order everything I need for this tonight, do you know what you ended up getting that worked? Was about to order a large pack of #12 x 2" screws, but just saw this.

Any insight is appreciated!

The #14 2" and #14 1" were what worked for me. The 1" because 3/4" were too short for the bottom pieces and barely reached the table. Not sure if you're ordering the plexiglass as well, but if you go by the 18" measurement they posted, they will be too big as well. Go with 17.3 inches, which is what 440 actually converts to, and 17.3" x 8.65" for the doors. Also I suggest getting some smaller screws to hold in the LED/wire clips if you're going to use them. I just used extra screws I had laying around for them, they were about 1/2" long and fairly skinny, like 1/8" or smaller.

Excellent, thanks! I ordered packs of #14 2" and #14 1" last night instead of what they listed.

I had my plexi cut locally by a place called Laird Plastics (there's many locations across US) and they were able to take the mm measurements and convert them over to the 17.3 and 8.65 just fine so that's what I ended up with.

I'm sure I have some small screws for the wire clips too, thanks for all the input, very much appreciated!

Hi, great design !
Does it fit a MK3 with the the new MMU 2.0 ? And is it possible to place 5 filament guides on the top to use the MMU 2.0 (is there enough place) ?

I'd love to know as well. Have an MK3 and MMU on backorder, and I love the idea of this enclosure.

One great suggestion someone made (not sure where sorry) is that the mmu2 can be modded to sit on the top when it comes along, no need to be inside the enclosure or on the frame at all.

Yeah, that may work. However there's going to be quite a few power and communication wires going to the MMU 2.0. You also may have to extend those wires. I'm sure it's not the end of the world, but I'd rather just keep it inside, and have a nice spool holder on top.

When I get my printer I'll see if I can remix it so it's a bit taller. I'm just not really sure how much taller it needs to be.

MK2/2.5 PSU cables route from the bottom instead of the backside as well as having a smaller notch for the U shape "clip". This means that the PSU cannot sit completely flush against the bottom table. Any chance someone already has the modifications?

EDIT: I just lowered the PSU for an acceptable amount of slack to avoid pinching and added a swiveling front support piece. Works great. You might have issues with cable length if you use a paver as well. consider routing it to the left side of the rear-left leg. This probably means adjusting your corner piece orientation and horizontally flipping the bottom PSU holder.

I'm trying to put this together for the mk2s and I'm running into the same problem. I can't really visualize what your saying though. What do you mean swiveling front piece? Do you have pictures?

Super simple, but not very elegant.

Thanks. That's how I wound up doing mine too.

I want to build this but I also want to continue to use the cement slab that I have to help with vibrations (maybe I wont need it when I upgrade to MK3) but how much height is available on the inside? I think the cement slab I have is 2 inches tall, would that still leave enough room for everything?

You might have pinching issues with brittle filament having to make severe bends along the X axis at high Z. If it does fit, you might need a wider feed like this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2156762. My enclosure (not this design) only matches an extra 2 inch height with a 2 inch paver and this is an issue for me. I have not modified it yet so I don't have a complete solution available.

LACK Table Filament Guide

Thanks for your response and the filament guide!

Do you have a good source for the magnets?

Yeah k&j magnetics. BC41. Their USPS shipping is like $5 so now is the chance to add other items to your order for the same shipping cost.


I remixed the handles for Harbor freight magnets if you want to try those out


Prusa Enclosure Door Knob for Harbor Freight Rare Earth Magnets

Thanks, that will come in handy. I couldn't find the magnets they listed either.

Haven't built the enclosure yet (parts still arriving) but I ordered these if that helps - 1.5mm but I figured use 2 if they're too thin or pack it out with card.


I have used 1.5mm thick in my handles although they have been fitted in my remix (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2876499) so are hidden.

They work fine. 0.5mm is pretty negligible in terms of clearances and neos are so strong they don't have to make contact to work!

Original Prusa i3 MK3 ENCLOSURE Hidden Magnets MOD

Is it also possible to use PLA for this? Also would you be willing to post links to the various parts we'd need to purchase (i.e. the plexiglass, heat sensor/thermometer, magnets, twin cable, compact lever connector) so we can make sure we're getting compatible parts?

Thanks so much for putting this out there, I LOVE my prusa mk2s so much I've already purchased the mk3 upgrade kit, the mk3 multi-material kit, and a second entire mk3!! You guys are the BEST!!!

PLA is suitable for most of these prints. I suggest avoiding PLA when in contact with anything that generates heat like the PSU if possible, though I'm not certain if it gets hot enough to require PET or ABS. Also, I'd opt to use a spool design using bearings if only for the noise reduction. I've used PLA wheels before and they ended up squeaking after prolonged use. I can't really speak for this design though.

Comments deleted.

Do you have a guess as to how much total material is needed to print all the items?

All the parts @ 30% infill took me about 550g

Excellent design.
Is it printed in petg?
Resolution and infill?
is it possible to have separate pieces?
my printer does not have a very large plate

Yes, it is PET. I believe I used default Prusa PET settings in Slic3r PE.
-2 perimeters
-0.2 Layer height
-20% infill
...but the geometry is not difficult to print. I am sure, you could you any reasonable, faster setting as well. Especially higher layer height will not have a big quality influence.

Which slicing program are you using? In Slic3r just hit "Split" button and the STL will be exploded into single objects.

Thanks for the info

I use simplify3d. I found the command you say

Thanks, love the design. Are there SCAD files for these files?

Hi, I do not have SCAD files, as I use Rhinoceros for designing. Sorry.

No worries, thanks for the design :)

I uploaded exported .stp files. If it is helpful;)

Original Prusa i3 MK3 ENCLOSURE -Ikea Lack table - Prusa Research

Thanks these helped a ton!

23pcs: 220 x 440 mm, thickness 3mm? That's a lot of plexiglass

Thanks for correction;)