Designed specifically for the Anycubic i3 Mega: 60mm width,and for mounting on 50mm vertically spaced 8mm x-rods. Should also fit almost any vertical 50mm rail spaced printer with the same bearings and rod diameters.
The j-head mount included is for use with a piezo sensor, and auto bed leveling, but could just as easily be used as a regular j-head without the piezo.
Please note that I do use this currently, but my interests have diverged into similar carriages for a corexy system I'm building, so unless i find a need to add something to this system, or some part of the other system cascades back into this design (like the DB15/26 VGA connectors from lukie80's original, that I'm including in my corexy), this particular thing is on my backburner for now.
I recently began using this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3047484 instead of the partfan components included in this (quickfit) thing as they are generally too powerful, and air directed across the print has a bad tendency to get redirected unpredictably off the printed object and cool the nozzle to the point of physical print failure or bogus thermal runaway terminations. The combo shroud i linked is still effective, very simple and significantly smaller, but prone to none of the problems i just mentioned.
4 - M3x30mm bolts, and 4 square nuts (secure bases to bearings)
1 - M3x40mm bolt, and 2 square/hex or 1 nylock nut , and 2 M3 washers (secure latches to base).
2 - M3 washers (on the outside of both latches, NOT between the latches and the frame. Use two nuts locked together, or a nylock nut, to hold the levers in place, with moderate resistance to turning being a good thing.)
New objects have better openings to the front and rear allow plugs (and cables) to fit past the piezo jhead mount. Also different bearing sockets should be printable with no supports, this means that you should be able to print all base and plate objects without supports. Levers may be a little tighter, but thats trivial to retool on the plates, and is a good thing anyway. They are otherwise the same and functionally interchangeable.
A rear mounted partfan pair. Not the best exit vent, as it directs a lot of air forwards, but it does work and I will refine/replace it eventually.
You need to orient your heater cartridge/heatblock like I have in the photo, otherwise the partfan arm will be attracted to the heatblock and melt onto it. Not so bad if your partfan is on 100% of the time, but potentially disastrous if it's only invoked occasionally.
Note that I am using a slightly longer than normal heatbreak tube, so the screw holes/slots that mount this thing to the plate will only give so much leeway for adjustment, and moving the mount more than half way up the holes will probably preent you getting the back plate off without loosening these screws first.
Like everything with this project: it's very much a work in progress.
An auto leveling jhead attachment for 20mm piezo disks.
The tolerances of the disc recess and various connecting surfaces require that this is printed in 0.1mm layers or thereabouts. I have been using Slicer and 0.32mm layers, with adaptive layer thickness edited so that both jhead chokers, the bowden connector thread all the way up to the piezo recess, and the top few layers of the flexplate column (that actually comes into contact with the piezo disk) are printed at 0.12mm thickness.. to ensure things fit as intended.
(Slic3r screenshot image: _catenated-row-7.jpg)
But for simplicity you should probably just print all parts at ~0.1mm thickness.
Note: right now I have split/spring washers on the M3x10mm bolts holding the piezo-jhead mount to the carriage plate, becasue 8mm is too short and 12mm is too long, and I need to adjust the mount thickness a little... but I'm tired, so will do it next time I know i wont do something stupid. It works, I'm using it, will update later.
Updated plates to eliminate 0.2mm of horizontal X play.
Updated plates to eliminate 0.2mm of horizontal Y play.
Flipped print orientation, probably still needs supports, but not for the nut slots. Latching surface is significantly firmer now.
NOTE: I print with a 0.4mm nozzle so I specify 0.4mm external perimeter width in Slic3r. TO ALL OF MY MODELS TO DATE. Typically a 0.4mm nozzle prints it's external perimeters at 0.45 to 0.48mm by default, so unless you instead specify 0.4 you will probably find mated parts are too tight and bolt holes do not fit bolts. Specify 0.4mm external perimeter and you should get the results I do: perfect fit.
Why do I do this? Because it makes the math and the modeling easier and more precise than needing to add 0.45 to 0.48...divided by two (0.225 to 0.24) to everything....0.4 divided by 2 is 0.2... and easier.
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