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Interstellar Space Jarhead - Biker Enthusiast

by outofstep, published

Interstellar Space Jarhead - Biker Enthusiast by outofstep Apr 2, 2014

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Summary

Rescaled, fixed mesh errors, adjusted legs to sit properly on the bike.

Snip the hand at the wrist, rotate, re-glue.

Updated to include the sidecart "heavy assault" version. When printing sidecart, split it slicer to take the two attachment points underneath it out. Then drop and print. Will print much easier that way.

Trying to stay in line with Games Workshop IP Policy. If any GW employee or representative wishes me to remove or alter any designs, let me know and I will comply with expediency. Below I’ve outlined how I tried to comply with their policies.
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Overall - None of these are exact replicas. I tried to add abit of my own take on things or modification to the design. Ei kitbash it abit. Additionally, all models should just be used for painting practice. Practice messing up a paint job on a print, not your actual GW model.
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Copyrights - I tried to make sure a “significant part” was not the same. Style, yes. Copied, no.
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Trademark - I’ve removed all specific Trademarks. Ex: Aquila
Non-commercial - I’m making no money from this
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Professional Distribution - I’m not a professional artist, using any of these as a portfolio advertisement. Just a hobbiest tinkering
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Damage our brand - Not doing that. GW IP is a pretty cool universe. Hence the reason I wanted to make models that “live” in it.
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Make it clear you’re doing it unofficial - I’m doing this UNOFFICIALLY.
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Use trademarks appropriately - I tried to remove all trademarks
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Derivative Works - I believe most of these models would fall under derivative works, two are three models might not, but I think most do.
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Non-commercial recasting and 3D printing - I have not scanned any of GW’s IP.

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I love it ! Looks really easy to print

Started printing, the bikes look great! Can you post individual files for the bikes and the 'jarhead' bits? I needed a raft for the bits, but the bikes would be better w/o the raft. Also it'd be nice if I could just reprint one if it got messed up.

Great work!

VERY nice. What resolution are you using? Your centurions turned out better than mine :)

The biggest thing I've found for getting good prints is just having all the stepper motors dialed in. I think that makes more of a difference than step size. I only use the 50mm + sized calibration angles. I've found anything smaller than that, doesnt work too well. If you've got your x,y, and Z reallie dialed in - in general the print come out looking much better.
I typically print at 0.25 Z, with a 0.4 Nozzle. I need to fix some Z banding issues though. They are very visible on the dozer blade and the centurian's shoulder. I'm getting those because my Z threaded rod is "soft" mounted to my Z stepper, instead of hard mounted like it should be.
I've also found for alot of these models, I try to avoid printing parts together. For example I print the head separate from the torso or the guns separate from the arms. That seems to let them pick up more detail when sliced. After slicing I will sometimes ever so slightly increase a model size, like 1%, to see if that picks me up another layer. Sometimes just one more layers makes the difference between something looking rounded and something looking boxy.

Ask and you shall receive. Uploading now

Prints awesome... Any thoughts about making a 3 wheeled version for extra firepower? :)

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