This is a cooler assembly for a water cooled pillow. It uses a processor heatsink and a cheap china made waterblock.
You can use this assembly for things that aren't a pillow of course, since it's basically just a device that lets you sandwich together a heatsink, a peltier element, and a waterblock. This would be great for making a camping fridge or a car seat cover or anything you want colder than ambient.
Peltier cooler - TEC1-12706
Waterblock - 40mm X 40mm X 12mm side outlet/inlet https://www.ebay.com/itm/132274814037
Heatsink - Most older AMD processor heatsinks will work. It's designed for the sock universal one, just check if the tabs line up with whatever you have.
Use thermal compound on both sides of the peltier module.
Pump: Any water pump will do, but the quieter the better. I've listed a 3d printable one below, it just needs a motor.
Power supply: 12V. I used a 650W server PSU I found on ebay for $13. Whatever one you buy, make sure it has a dynamic fan that only ramps up speed as needed, so its quiet.
This is rather precise with little room for tolerance. This is done on purpose, you'll want to scale your print to the dimensions of the block you receive.
The waterblocks in the parts list are indeed 40mm by 40mm at the corners as specs indicate, but they bow out slightly in the mid points of the sides. How much they bow out is kinda random depending on what manufacturer you go with and what line they came from.
So the best option here is to assume the tolerances I added (about a half mm) will be eaten by the plastic shrinking as it cools - and the remaining will need to be added by you.
So for a perfect fit, grab a slide caliper and adjust the length and width of the assembly in your slicer to compensate. Figure exactly 40mm starting. If you measure 40.5 at the maximum on one axis, that means you will want to scale that axis to ((40.5/40)*100) = 101.25%.
If you don't have a slide caliper, you could just go with 102.5% - i haven't seen any of the waterblocks go outside 40.8mm yet.
I designed this to utilize available materials.
Most people have old garbage desktop computers in their basement, and if they have a processor heatsink with at the very least a 40mm by 40mm contact point on the bottom - it can be utilized for a peltier.
I have a few orders in place locally for water cooled pillows, they're sending me some heatsinks to measure so chances are I'll have a receiver for multiple sockets up soon.
If I can figure out the customizer for this, I'll add in a feature to automatically "cut" the waterblock's bow out of the assembly depending on what each person needs.
You will need a few extra things:
A pillow - You will want a pillow that can hide the lumpiness of the tubing but reduce the insulating properties as much as possible. I ordered a memory foam pillow that will be here soon, I plan to cut channels into the surface to recess the tubing. I'll lay a light 2mm soft foam pad over the surface to hold everything in place.
Tubing - Surgical tubing seems to be a great option. It's soft, flexible, quiet, and relatively strong. I went with 6mm ID/9mm OD tubing. If you wet it a bit, it'll slide onto the heat block nicely. To clamp it to the block I'd suggest printing a 9.5mm ID cylinder that you can slide up over the connection point. The OD of the block's barb is ~9.3mm.
A pump - It'll have to be as quiet as possible, since your ear will be right up against the tube. You can find super quiet aquarium water pumps at the nearest thrift store cheaply, or you can print your own pump if you have a motor laying around. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2861244 This pump works quietly and effectively.
- A liquid - distilled water is probably your best bet since it doesn't contain any nutrients for bacteria or algae to grow.
Optional: Fan grill to go over the heatsink. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2822639