by MakeTo3D Apr 24, 2018
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I asked a teacher on my school who has a 3D printer to print both versions (Logo, no logo) and the holes are REALLY small... Can't possibly fit a paper clip in there... Only very thin copper wire, which I never got to touching the pins and entering RCM.


I have gone back to re-up the Paperclip version, be careful with the clip, file the tips so they do not have any burr or anything that could damage the pins. Even so the clip is very rigid and can damage the rail of the console.

I'll try the paper clip version, if the teacher can print it.... The other version is printed, but I can't fit anything in it. The pictures that show a slightly thick copper wire astonish me, because all I could fit through was a REALLY thin cooper wire like this (https://sc02.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1NOQmQVXXXXa0aXXXq6xXFXXX6/Flexible-PVC-Insulated-Ultra-thin-Copper-Wire.jpg), maybe thinner, and I can't position it correctly, cause it bends so easily

Why deleted paperclip version bro ?

I have reuploaded that version after several requests. Beware of the tips of the clip.

I have already seen too many pictures of clips with the tips dangerously cut, I do not want to have a model that could be dangerous for any Switch.

I have printed one with an Ultimaker 3 and it's working perfectly :)
I was wondering, do you have a source file of this model you can share to make a custom joy-con accessory ?
Thanks !

Grande ese maketo, muchas gracias por el esfuerzo tio. Grande EOL.

Guys, I'm trying to print this using PLA and I have tried different settings (extruder and bed temp, speeds, fan cooling, infill etc ..) but I still cant print it properly.

This is my first time trying to print something. Can anyone recommend me the best settings in order to properly print it? Temp, speeds, type of infill and density?

My configuration is using a nozzle of 0.4mm, 45mm / s speed with reductions to exterior wall of 50%, 100% filler, 100% layer fan, temperature 190ºC, PLA.

It is a small piece, it is best to use a low speed of printing so as not to overheat the material.

Thanks for your reply. What about the below values? I ran many attempts and I don't have enough PLA roll for many failed prints. That's why I wanna get it right this time.

Below are my settings. If you are kind enough please suggest better ones:

Extrusion multiplier: 1.1
Bed temp: 50ºC
Disable fan for the first 3 layers
Retraction length: 1mm
Retraction speed: 80mm/s
Layer height: 0.05mm
First layer height: 130%

Fill pattern: Rectilinear
Fill density: 100%
Combine infill: every 1 layer
Infill Extrusion Width: 180%

Looking forward for your reply

0.5mm layer height can be problematic if the machine is not very sharp, try with a height of 0.1mm or higher, I have printed some up to 0.2mm.

The other problem may be the infill extrusion width 180%, set it to 100%.

This is the result. I give up :(
Thanks for your help tho

I printed the non-logo paperclip version using 0.1mm and all other default settings on the Makerbot; I also printed the normal version with the smaller holes, but I cannot break the little tunnel hole covers off as it's far too small and too hard. I tried, but they didn't come out as easily as the one for the paperclip.

Either way - I inserted a paperclip and tried, tried and tried and cannot get it to RCM boot. It's hard to see exactly where the contacts are touching, but I lengthened the paper clip so that it extended further out of the jig - using the jig as a piece to keep the paperclip in place - so there was enough room to look down with a flashlight and it is still too difficult to tell if I am touching pins 1 and 10.

Anyone else have this experience? I have tried bending them a few degrees either direction in the little channel for the paperclip; I have substituted the paperclip for much easier-to-bend jewelry wire; I have extended the paperclip metal out a bit so I could try and control exactly which pins were being touched; I have pried them up a bit out of the channel to make sure they were getting contact and yet nothing.

I printed three total- the paperclip version, no logo small wire version, and the second most popular jig here on Thingiverse and only the first one- the paper clip one - can I actually get all the excess materials out of to actually use, so I am stuck with this at the time being.

Any tips for getting this to make proper contact? I've entered RCM plenty of times by messing around with a paperclip and flashlight to touch the pins, without the jig, but I printed the jig to make this a lot easier but so far I have sunk more time into messing with the jig than I would've just using the clip!

Any suggestions are helpful. Thank you!

Thank you for this. I have made over 10 of them for myself and friends!

Any chance of a version with holes for a keychain? The other remixed versions had to change the size of the holes, can't get the wires through properly.

Someone made a remix of this with a keyring hole. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920828

Joycon Jig with Keyring
by smx

Thanks! Will try it.

could someone please tell me what this is for exactly? much appreciated.

This is a tool used to jailbreak / hack the nintendo switch, shorting two pins at startup brings the nintendo switch in kind of a developer mode. And with the right computer programms you can then put other firmware and stuff on your switch. Google for: "sx xecuter"

Its not recommended for non tech savvy people yet but it looks very promosing.

Hey, thanks for the design. I remixed your jig and designed the (copper) wire bending template, it should also work with your design as the dimensions are the same: thing 2973594
Actually, feel free to add the wire template stl to your thing, since yours is more popular.

Nice design!
The work of the cable template is yours and I do not want to appropriate it (I do not see it right). What I have done is add a comment in the description for people to check the remixes and that they know can find it.
Greetings and thanks for the remix

Can you please point me into the direction of "0,9mm wire Paperclips". I keep trying to find them but having no luck searching guessing I might be missing something. Thanks!

They were the smallest clip I had in the drawer, I do not know if there is any standard format for them. That's why I put the diameter.

Hello, I've tried to print this with 3 different settings using my TEVO Tarantula printer but in all cases the holes for the cable are non existent or just far too small. If you could recommend settings to use for this model that would be great. What I have tried is:

  • line height 0.2mm (1), 0.1mm (2) and again 0.2mm but with different speed
  • speed permiters 20 and infill 40 for the first 2 attempts, 10 and 30 for the 3rd.
  • I printed using a honeycomb pattern, fill density of 50% and using a filament with a diameter of 1.75mm

Hey, check out my version of this jig : 2973594, it fixes this issue

Did you ever figure it out im having the same problem on my Ender-3

i did not and instead ended up ordering some jigs from an etsy store (shipped from spain). i have a feeling however that it may be the fill density (or was it speed infill.. idr) which needs to be decreased to something closer to 5-10% based on having found other switch related models that require that.

I finally got one to print correctly thought i'd share.

Not sure which of the 2 things I changed actually fixed it but the first thing I did was rotate the print in Cura so that the air from the fans would run down the holes instead of the side. The second thing I did was Setting "Fill Gap Between Walls" to "Nowhere".

Do you bend the tips down on the paperclip version?

Also, trip report: Target paperclips (after peeling off the vinyl coating) do not work, but Staples brand appears to function without a hitch.

There is not enough space to bend the paperclip, you have to be careful with leaving the clean cut on the tip of the clip. I recommend better the version with fine copper wire.

Thanks for making this model! Sadly my printer does seem to print the tunnels right. They always end up too tight. Any recommendations for fixing that? :o

A low speed and layer height help, if it is not enough try to mark the option in the s3d of "horizontal expansion" to add some slack.

not to steal the highlight, but you could try my remix: 2973594

Can you please make a 0.6mm wire version? I tried the paperclip one at it doesn't work with my wire.

The internal diameter is 0.8 mm for the 0.4 mm cable version.
For the paperclip version the internal diameter is 1.2mm.
Should I enter one or the other, what diameter is the cable that you are using?

It's a 0.6mm diameter wire.

Try this, it is an intermediate diameter between the normal version and the paperclip version.

does it have to be copper wire all my twist ties are not copper but a perfect fit so can i use it ?

No problem, as long as it conducts electricity properly

Great Jig man! This saves me from having to make one for a copper wire myself. Not everyone has a micro usb port laying around to use, but we all should have some sort of solid copper wire somewhere.

Awesome jig! Printed without any problems in 10m and works like a charm. I'm using salvaged jumper cable for the contacts.

This is a great design, Any chance you would upload the file so we can modify the Wire diam, allow a bit of tolerance.

I have added a version with the larger holes (paperclip wire). In any case, it is easy to make two cutting extrusions in the stl itself.

Did you use a standard size paperclip or mini? All of my standards are a little too large ar around .97mm

Using a small size there are no problems, I used a medium one that I had at home (0.9mm measured with the caliber).
You should not have problems with that of 0.97mm, the holes are 1.2mm.

Odd. My printer might not have done them correctly as even trying to force the paperclip in ended up pushing through the bottom. Will most likely try the normal wire version next.

Ty, Rdy for hack switch ;)

One question, what's in the middle?

I just added some photos.

But the wire is wrong, it has to touch pins 7-10 and that is set for 1-10

No, you just need to short pin 10 to ground. Pin 9, 7, or 1 would work for that. This design just uses pins 1 and 10 for a stable design (and if you use the paperclip option, it's closer to a standard paper-clip width). Another popular design uses a disassembled micro-USB connector, and it uses pins 10 and 7 because their width just happens to line up with two of the micro-USB pins. Either way, this design should be fine.