Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

AVZ CoreXY 3D Printer (MGN Linear Rails & Laser Cut Pieces)

by AVZ Apr 26, 2018
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hey mate could you re-upload the 3d renders? im waiting on the last pieces to arrive and was gonna start putting it together and was going to use them as a reference

Just uploaded the STP file!

awesome, thanks mate

Hi guys! Help me, what are the ideas for the fan blower and bl touch. I have little space on the Y axis and a simple fan rests on the profile. Perhaps there are interesting links to thingiverse. Thank!

Hmmm on my side I'm still struggling to come up with something to hold both hotend fan and layer fan together. I'm using Titan+V6 and the Extruder leaves little room for those...
So I'm open to suggestions.

I was trying to think of a way to mount one or two 4020 blower fans on the rear of the print head (I have a few just hanging around), where there's lots of room to extend backward and not hit anything, and a duct that goes forward under the bearing block.

I'm going to settle for something mounted on the V6 heatsink for now. Having a fan zip tied to the heatsink with a duct made of packing tape isn't working very well! Even just 100mm/s using Hatchbox PLA at 190C gives me some warping on the less-cooled side.

As I said above I still have that thing to solve in my own printer, either if I'm using Titan clone or BMG clone, since the hotend would be basically the same. At this moment I'm trying to find a workshop that can machine an aluminum plate for the heated bed (the heating pad would be sticked underneath the alu plate).

About the fan mount I have made several prototypes but tests have not been exactly successful so I won't upload those pieces until I have a compact and solid design.

Feel free to upload your build, I'm curious about how it looks :)

I'll do a more official post of mine when I've made more progress, especially on the cable management. jackantubis's build just looks too good!

I used 3030 extrusion (easier to enclose than 4020), all custom dimensions, 330x330x400ish build volume (X is cut a bit short for now due to belt zip ties), SKR 1.3 with TMC5160 running Klipper on a Pi3B+, 0.9 degree steppers for XYE, XY are 48mm, E is I think 34mm, 51:1 planetary gear stepper motor for Z, optical endstops (currently mounted with hot glue and tripped by aluminum foil! yeah!), 200W fanless 24V PSU, 1/4" thick ATP bed (heavy! about 5lbs/2.2kg) with a 1mm PEI sheet, and a nice Omron SSR for the 750W bed that makes the CFLs in my bathroom dim at a perfectly unpleasant 10Hz :) (I have only myself to blame for that one... At least the bed heats up fast, considering its size!)

I tried to use piezos for bed leveling/measurement, but the contraption I designed ended up not working very well, and one of the piezos shattered after a particularly nasty bed drop incident (I was using another 0.9 stepper with measly 2.5:1 gearing before I gave in and dropped a good $51 USD on the planetary). I'm going to try a design which bends the piezos next, but the optical sensor is good enough for now.

All of the parts on the printer were printed on it. I had a friend print the parts needed to get started, and I've since replaced them. The piezo mounts are much taller than they need to be, which costs me some Z, but it's not like I'm going to need that kind of size while I'm still bringing the printer to life, and they're much easier to adjust than the stock bed mount.

I'm experiencing a frustrating thing with my build platform... My Z axis is made of 4x12mm Misumi shafts, 57mm long Misumi bearings, and belts connected with an 8mm rod along the bottom to lift the platform using the planetary geared motor. More or less overkill, right? Well, the problem is there's pretty substantial Z banding, which I had hoped using belt drive would alleviate. I can also tilt the bed significantly by putting relatively little upward or downward force on it, which makes it fun to level. I can also see the bed move relative to the 2020 frame it mounts to when I put opposite forces on opposite sides. I have no idea what's actually flexing, but there's literally 12 brackets on there now, and I don't know what to try next without doing a redesign. I'm vaguely considering switching to a pair of MGN15 rails plus a printed cage to connect to the platform, but I want to rule out other things first (such as the bad hole alignment for the gantry idler caps which causes them to be a bit tilted - long story).

Another issue: the print head seems to flex forward and backward a fair bit when putting force on it, which I fear could reduce quality at high accelerations. I suspect the top and bottom printed pieces don't have enough contact area with the metal parts, so I'm going to try making taller versions when I'm ready to start tuning for print quality. (Need it together and reliable first!)

It's definitely nice to be able to move and print somewhat okay at 150mm/s with 2.5k acceleration. The Ender 3 that I got rid of (due to Z banding that I just couldn't figure out, even after dumping in all my spare time for a month; hence the belt lift on this build) before starting this project topped out around 80mm/s with 3k accel. I do have 500mm/s 5k travels happening, which is awesomely terrifying to see and hear, and I'll probably have it go even faster once things are more together. I'm mad jelly of jackantubis's 300mm/s 3k with minimal ringing, though. Hopefully I'll get there soon!

Hi, check my build: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3628279 I designed a mount for BLtouch and a blowing system.


Very nice! This is definitely something to live up to.

I saw you have twist front/back on your carriage, in my design I modified the carriage to avoid this issue I saw too. But only for small stepper motor because I reduce the Y distance for more rigidity and space saving

Hmmm you mean like binding because of torque along Z?
XY motion works flawlessly with my chinesium rails :)
Yesterday I aligned Z rods with a 3D printed jig and it is pretty smooth as well B)

Awesome project dude ordered most of the bits to put it together, one I have every thing and start putting it together I was going to knock up a comprehensive bom and build guide. Just a quick one where did you source the laser cut pieces from and how much did you pay as that's pretty much the only bit I am missing. If you'd like to take this to private message just drop me one and we can talk further dude

Hmmm there is a laser cutting workshop approx 30km away from my home. I got the order there for approx 75€ (84$).
My printer has 300x300x300, 4020 extrusions, 4mm thick alu).

I actually knew it would have quite a decent price so I designed the printer around laser cut pieces to avoid printed ones.

I have found out that laser cutting prices vary a lot from one country to another (I mean, compared to salaries, prices etc) and even within the same country. I got 200ish€ budgets, but I'm so satisfied with this workshop.

I'm across the water in the UK and I'd be looking at £200ish so you have sourced substantially cheaper than what I've been able to, is there any chance of getting the name of the company and see if they would be prepared to ship over here.
As for the dimensions and extrusions I've gone exactly the same so should be looking at a similar price.

the information would also interest me, because the prices are quite high with us.

Then DM for you as well :)

I just sent you a DM :)

Where did you put your X endstop? On the extruder assembly?

Stall detection with Duet wifi, no need for endstop on XY

Yeah, that was my guess. I am also using Duet wifi, but I will still use the switches. They make me more comfortable :)

This is awesome!
Which drivers did you finally use? 12V or 24V?
I guess I'll get a 24V PSU to get full advantage of TMC 2208.
Last but not least, which LCD controller are you using?

24V duet WIFI (clone) + 7" panel due (clone). stall detection endstop. the cantilever Z is not bad but not the best, next printer will be as "Mark Rehorst" Z with belts and 2 linear rails each sides for more rigidity. The single BIG linear rail is good but still a bit of vibration in the bed.

working on enclosure, add some reinforcement in back of printer to increase rigidity of the Z mount, increase the rigidity of the bed. And need a flatter bed :-o

Hmmm I finally reordered the gantry (I still have the narrow one) and some other pieces such as the Dremel mount.

I got longer leadscrews so I might go for closed loop belt and 2:1 pulleys reduction (DZSM mod)

Had some alu plate machined for the bed and now I'm waiting to collect It

Hmmm sad to read cantilever bed is not working as expected :/
Dual leadscrew dual motor works pretty fine, but has the same long term issue than any setup with two Z motors... Some position error...

I'll upload my designs ASAP :-) I'll make a video of the printer screwed to the table to check the bed vibrations. It work well just not sure about quality prints on big parts. another good point I reached 300mm/s with 3000mm/s² acceleration almost without ringing :-), just add duet3D ringing cancellation and nothing remain

Comments deleted.

Hmmm my gantry feels pretty stiff but I didn't try to print big stuff. For now my bed is an MDF plate and I still need to get a 300x300 glass plate. I ran 150mm/s with MKS Gen, and didn't try faster but I'm sure '8 bit factor' will show up if I do.

I must setup 2208s UART and then I'll see if I switch to single motor or I stay with two.

One last thing is the BLTouch, I'd like to make the mount compatible with both BLTouch and belt tensioner.

And of course more mounts over time, maybe a fancy tool changer would be nice... But it will take time for this to come...

hi buddy, still waiting for the 3060 files ;) already ordered all the parts... can't wait to assemble :D

Just uploaded them, check this out :D



Thanks! You're awesome!

Hi, I am planning to use this project with my hypercube evolution 3030 profile frame, the measurements of the extrusions are 520mm in X and 510mm in Y, the extrusions of the bed frame are 2020 profile with 515mm in X and 255mm in Y. What are the dimensions of linear rails that should I use? What are the dimensions of bed laser mount that should I use? How can I allocate the pulleys in this project? Is there 3d printed files to do this? Can you share the 3d print files for the X carriage for Titan Aero? Can I use these files with the new Titan Aero design (as the photo)? Thank for this project.

Give it a try in your CAD software before ordering any actual laser cut pieces :)

Hi, thanks for the .dfx file. How can I allocate the pulleys in this project? Is there 3d printed files to do this? Can you share the 3d print files for the X carriage for Titan Aero? Can I use these files with the new Titan Aero design (as the photo)? Thank for this project.

Pulleys and spacers are stacked in order to achieve the CoreXY setup. The exact setup I'm using doesn't cross belts, neither at different planes nor top view. The pieces with four holes which look like a corner are the rear idler mounts.

At this moment I'm not finding the last version I made for Titan Aero, but first of all I must tell you that I don't own any Titan Aero so I haven't been able to test it myself. When possible I'll dive into my HDD and get all that stuff, but when that happens I'd highly recommend 3D printing the mount for testing purposes just in case my CAD model is wrong.

Last but not least, what do you mean by "new" Titan Aero? If they released an update I completely missed it, since I've been dealing with several frontlines for the past year.

I have good news after some CAD dialing. For your extrusion lengths only the gantry and the bed frame must change. The gantry is already made and here you can find the bed frame as well.

The mounts for Z motors can be used as they are (will upload them soon too). Check the two pictures attached here for clarification about the assembly.


Just uploaded them, check this out :D



Awesome buddy cheers!

Comments deleted.

Hi! This project is not fully compatible with original HEVO, because of some major changes in the design which made me change the extrusions length.
The gantry could be adapted with no significant hassle as you said. You could use 450mm rail for 350mm rail here (X).
Bed laser cut pieces should be changed to be 20mm longer.

My Y extrusions are 440 long with 400mm rails and 300mm Y travel. So I guess you could also go for 450mm rails and 350mm Y travel to make the build volume as big as possible within your extrusions.

Pulleys use the same pieces for all the 3030 versions, no matter the the build volume size. I still have to reupload them.
Z motor mounts and/or Z guiding rods mounts might have to be redesigned. I'll let you know before you order more cut to length materials.

I am planing to upgrade my Hevo to Linear Rails and want to use your Design, i really like it. My Frame is 3030 Profile and has slightly different meassurments. I have 470mm from Rail to Rail on Y, you have 490mm on 3030 and 480 on 4020. So i would modify the gantry to fit my frame. What is the usable travel in your Design? I would like to stay over 300mm.
It would be helpful to have a 3d File of the whole Printer, in the Zip file is only a old Design. I'm going to buy Linear Rails soon, but at the moment i don't feel sure about the Meassurements.

Anyway, thanks for sharing this great Design with us!

Hmmm there used to be a 3D file, but since I'm making changes I deleted it to reduce potential mistakes. What are the exact measurements of your extrusions?

6030 laser files are still to be uploaded as well.

My extrusions are 430mm in X and 440mm in Y. I think i just wait for the 6030 Laser files and look how i modify them to fit in my Printer.

Just uploaded them, check this out :D



Hey buddy i was looking for the dxf for the 6030 motor mounts but didnt see them. was looking to print them before laser cutting them. thank in advance for this project.

Hmmmm as I said in the last update I basically deleted everything intentionally because previous releases could be misleading...
It will take me a few more days to upload the 6030 pieces, but I'm aware they're missing for now.
I'll update this once they're uploaded.


Any updates on the 6030 pieces? Thanks.

Comments deleted.

Hi AVZ, did you finished your printer ? print quality is good ? mine will finished soon :-)

Hmmm still missing a buildplate and the gantry V2 for full length Nema 17. But dry runs @120 mm/s have been successful so far. Last month I finished the wiring and now it's time to laser cut a new gantry and some new different mounts but also to have a proper buildplate machined

Comments deleted.

Help! I cant find the dxf file for the x gantry.

Hmmm how big is your build volume?
Are you using 4020 or 6030 extrusions?

I'd like to make a 400*400 build volume. I will be using a 4020 extrusion, or 6030 extrusion is needed for bigger build volume?

BTW, I love your design!

Hmmm I think 4020 should be ok for 400^3. I made 300^3 and it feels rock hard. The dxf should be somewhere in my HDD, I hope I soon gather enough time to upload different sizes as separate files :D

I see. So 4020 is strong enough. Thanks! Yeah, if you have a chance to make a dxf for 400^3 or larger size volume will be much appreciated. Thanks again!

Hi again! I just made the x gantry laser cut dxf for 400mm volume size. Not sure though if its correct :)

Hmmm let me check it when I get home. It should have 580mm between MGN centers and 20 M3 holes (25mm one to another) to fit a 500mm MGN12 rail.

I see that one is the narrow gantry. I changed that one to a wider one because it's only meant for pancake motors and I saw on the painful way ($$) how weak those motors are. I deleted most of the documents related to it (even STL and STP) so it's not misleading anymore.

I just remade the gantry (both 4020 and 3030) for Xtravel=300,400,500
Will convert to .DXF this afternoon I hope, and upload them here separately.

Also have to upload laser cut pieces for both 6030 and 4020 since the gantry is not part of those files anymore in order to allow easier customization and flexibility.


Just uploaded the gantry files I told above. Yours should be 4020 X400.
Check distance between MGN centers is 580 and total length is 616mm.
It's meant to be used with 500mm long MGN12 rails, as said above :)


Wow! Thanks that was fast. Lucky I didn't bought the one I made. Thank you!

Working on tensionner and bottom carriage

I am testing this one for the Titan Aero mount.

This is tensionner files and pictures of the printer with cable chain mount

Do you have pictures for your fan cooling setup for hot plastic ?

Hmmm I tested the piece I designed with a 40x40 fan but wasn't good enough so I must improve it....

Hello again,

Do you have any measurements as to where everything is mounted to?

Hmmm should work on that. Distance from Z 4020 extrusions bottom face to X/Y 4020 extrusions bottom face is 29mm. Distance between Y two top 4020 extrusions is 41mm (81mm between centers).

Hello AVZ. Just found your design and really wanted to make a printer like yours. All is really good, thanks for sharing. Before buying all parts wanted to laser cut. If i want 200*200 build will i cut the laser like your dimensions on dxf files? If i cut them on dxf dimensions, it'll be little bed with big frame?


The gantry should have 380mm between MGN centers for 200mm X travel. The bed should be 230x230, holes 210x210.
I'd like to upload separate gantry DXF for different lengths at some point, bit I'm quite surpassed at the moment

Is there any possibility that you can post a photo of just the bed frame and how it’s all put together?

Hmmm I didn't take pictures during assembly process... But I could make a render of it, and/or three main views of the assembly during this week. Is that ok for you?

Yes please! Thank you!

Just uploaded three different views of it. Hope it helps!
Feel free to ask anything else if needed :)

Nice gantry I see there... At this moment I'm testing a self designed belt tensioner and once it works as expected I'll reorder the gantry for a full size Nema 17

Belt tensionning could be really interesting :-). me still working on cantilever Z to avoid shake during print

I have a working belt tensioner but I have a different hotend assembly which is a modified version of something I found on Thingiverse. Also, some parts of my carriage is milled from aluminium (not the tensioning part though. See if I can upload some photos.

Anyone from germany who knows where to buy the laser pieces cheaply?

Hello again. I forgot to ask - and if the size of 500x500 is how to make CNC machined Y plate axis? I can modified dxf file in corel but if i in BOM select 200 x travel the center between mgn is not 380 mm, i see 375 mm

What do you mean by Y plate? The gantry? I don't understand if you want 500x500 travel or 200x200.
Distance between MGN centers should be X travel + 180mm if you're using 4020 extrusions.

sorry , x laser cut plate (gantry) i want 500 x travel . How create laser cut file for this travel. Distance between Y mgn + 180 mm - right ? Like in my screenshot
UPD - problem solved.
The same story with the bed - the center of the shaft and screw. Only I plan with sfu 1605 - more central hole and 6 mounting holes. I got it.

What spacers do you use between your pulleys ? My washers are too big. Thanks

My washers are 0.5mm thick

Is the outer diameter the problem, touch the outside of the ball bearing :-(

I buy washers at a local specialized store (they sell bolts, nuts and related stuff). For every bolt metric size they have two different "widths" (outer diameters), regular and wide. I buy regular ones and for M3 size their OD is approx 7mm, and worked fine for me

I made washers on my lathe, couldn't find anything that didn't touch either the pulley or the outer ring of the tiny ball bearing.

What size do you reach ? I build mine the hard way on my drill press :-o 3mm inner 4mm outter diameter but not good precision. Do you sold some custom washers ?

Hmmm there might be some differences between your pulleys and mine ones, but going for narrower washers shouldn't fully solve the issue. I mean, nut at the end of the bolt must sandwich the whole assembly gently. Of course it will go loose due to vibrations. But I use nylock nuts to prevent that. For me loosening a bit those nuts was a key movement. I also considered shimming the 20mm spacers to get some play, but finally didn't, as the other option worked. The gantry moves as smooth as the crap rails allow.

I don't sell washers or spacers but I can tell that some of the pulleys have really crappy bearings that and overall manufacturing quality which means the bearings breaks down even though washers only touching the inner ring on the bearing is used.

My gantry movement is also supersmooth but I still suffer from bearings breaking down even though I have put < 50 hours printing time on them. Are currently replacing bearings in the pulleys to high quality ones.

Hmmm mind sharing more info about those high quality bearings?

Maybe I went a little too far claiming "high quality bearings". My reasoning was that the bearings in the (relatively cheap pulley) are the cheapest crap available, then if I replace them with bearings from a local supplier would be better. I have a local supplier focusing on bearings for RC cars that usually carry quality bearings. That's where I got them.

Ah, RC stores... Didn't think about those ones. Will definitely try if I have issues with those bearings... Thanks!

Hello AVZ,

Great work, but I miss a few metal parts in the summary (DXF).
I would like to build the version 3060 with Titan Aero, but miss the following parts.
Can you uploade this?


My printer project is advancing, admittedly slowly. Had to do quite a few iterations of the printer head, wanted to base it out of this hotend project: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2617424

Had to design some pretty tight (volume-wise) belt tensioners that now seems to work fine. To get the whole thing as stiff as I wanted I milled some aluminum parts for the X carriage.

During the process my current printer is slowly giving up making it a challenge to print the necessary parts for the Hevo. Will re-print everything on the new once it is up and running.

Later this week I'll pick up a printer bed and some glass plates for it. After that I'll start to move over hotend and electronics from the old printer!

Hypercube Evolution Complete Hotend Assembly

Hi! There is a question. How did you tension the belt?

I've been trying several different designs for belt tensioners, and liked none of them. For now what I do is holding the gantry against one of the Y ends, then tensioning the belts manually, then holding them in place with zip ties. Both belts seem to have quite an equal tension while being properly tensioned too. However, since the printer still lacks the buildplate, it didn't have enough use to check how well it holds tension over time.

I've been thinking about redesigning the motor mounts and making like 5-10mm long slots for the bolts, but it's still to be tested, since force at the motor shaft creates torque along X axis and I'm not sure if it would be comfortable and/or beneficial. I'd like to come up with a smart and lightweight tensioner where tension is controlled by a couple of bolts, but I'm out of time at the moment. I'll keep this updated, though, if there are any news :)

Hi, I'have just received my lasercuted parts 4mm thick your design seems promissing :-) 70€ (Z parts not include, I'll use my own design)

Do you have more picture of your printer during the assembly ? (whant to look the future for mine :-) )

Hi! Tbh I didn't take really many pictures while assembling and had to go several times back and forth so there's no really a serious assembling process. However I'd love to assemble one of these and film it without taking mine apart. I don't see that happening in a short time, though.

I printed jigs to help me during assembling process, in order to keep certain distances consistent and so on.

I went this way:
[Bear in mind that while assembling everything must be bolted LOOSE before first rough aligning]

1- Frame is assembled.

2- Bed frame is assembled, including Z nuts and Z bearings.

3- Z rods SK12 mounts are bolted to frame and rods placed into SK12. Position front left and front right (top and bottom) rods with jigs, slide bed frame up and down until the two rear rods find their place. Bolt them down.

4- Z motor plates are bolted to frame, and motors bolted to Z motor plates. Z couplings are bolted to Z steppers shafts. Leadscrews go through their nuts and bolted to Z coupling.

5- Slide bed at its bottom position by turning leadscrews by hand. Z motor plates must still be loose so they can slide freely. Once they have found their place, bolt them down.

6- Bolt MGN rails with their bearings to Y mid extrusions (loose).

7- Sandwich the following stuff to make the gantry and the rear idlers assembly:
Washer - Pulley - Washer - 10mm spacer
Washer - Pulley - Washer - Washer - Pulley - Washer

8- Bolt the X MGN to the gantry.

9- Bolt the gantry to Y MGN bearings.

10- Bolt Carriage to X MGN bearing.

11- Pass both belts through their pulleys, They run on two different planes. Tension them as equally as possible.

12- Connect electronics (I'm working on Marlin for a MKS 1.4 Gen)

Hello! Tell me. What bushings did you use to install the bobbin strap? Thanks.

Sorry, I don't know what you mean.
If you mean the smooth pulleys, they have their own bearings inside, I didn't have to buy anything separately. They're exactly like the 16 teeth pulleys in the inside, 3mm bore and a bearing. They just don't have teeth. Look for GT2 16T idlers, and in most sites you'll find they sell either with or without teeth. I use six with teeth, two without teeth, and two GT2 16T 5mm bore pulleys for the XY motors.

I have started the assembly of my printer. I must admin I have a hard time follow how the belts are supposed to be routed even though I have been looking quite close at the rendered pictures. Possible to get a clarification?

Next step will be to CAD or modify an existing printer head to handle Zesty Nimble, E3D v6 and Orion piezo. I know there is one out here on Thingiverse but I'm not sure how to mount it to the MGN rail wagon. My wagon doesn't have mounting holes on the sides but that can be sorted out.

I just uploaded a belt layout clarification, with front view of both belts and top view of one and two belts. I hope it helps to clarify, my bad.

I don't get what you mean by MGN wagon mounting holes. In case you mean the MGN bearing, mine has 4 holes in a 20x20mm pattern (MGN12H), while MGN12C has 4 holes in a 20x15 pattern.

I could design a mount for all those components but I'm pretty busy at the moment. Are the datasheets easily available? That would speed up the whole process quite significantly :D

Thanks for the uploaded clarification, got some ideas from the original HEVO documentation too.

I just realized that I had made some assumptions about the mounting of the aluminum plates to the MGN bearing (what I called wagon). I assumed the aluminum plates were screwed directly to the sides of the MGN bearings. I have seen bearings with holes also on their sides.

Nevermind, now that is sorted out and I will look into what a printer head would look like. I'll give it a shot myself, not that bad at CAD when I need to :)

You're welcome :)

Ah, I didn't know some MGN bearings had holes on their sides too. All the datasheets I checked didn't seem to have those holes, so I made the gantry to be bolted straight to bearing top face (as you can check in the 20x20 hole pattern at the outermost part of the gantry DXF). Mine ones don't have those holes either.

I liked your project very much, I plan to make 500 mm, do you think there will be a better 10 mm belt than 6 mm?

I've never tried other belts than 6mm, however I guess it could be easily done and it would be more robust for greater build volumes. The whole belt system just would take 8 more mm, every pulley should be changed from 6 to 10mm wide belt and the extruder rear mount should be slightly redesigned. If you're going that way let me know, so I can easily change stuff in that DXF file.

Oh, thanks for the reply. Better late than never) I think the problems should not be in theory.

Hello! I cannot find a stl of Titan extruder mounting parts to the carriage rail. Where can I get the drawings of these parts?

True that, I just uploaded them.
You can find them as HEVO AVZ Titan Top/Bottom Bracket (STL). Note they're meant for 38mm long Nema 17, since the pancake motor is not part of the design anymore (too little torque).


I found a slight mistake, in the detail Heated_Bed_Bracket_Offset_22.5mm,
the offset of this detail should be 17.5mm to install a table with 310x310 hole spacing. Can you provide a revised this detail,
and the missing EVO Titan BL Touch Rear Mount and spacers for Titan Aero mounts ?

Congratulations on the greate project,


I just uploaded the 17.5mm bracket (310x310), but left the 22.5 one available for those people with a 320x320 hole pattern.

Hello again, what do you recommend for the 300x300 heated bed? If possible could you provide the details so I can get that on order?

Hi, I got a 220VAC 600W 300x300mm silicone bed and control it via SSR (on-off mode). Maybe I'll figure out a way to phase control the SSR (optocoupler + triac) by using a diac and a mosfet which will be controlled from the board, but for now it works on-off.


I’m planning on a 300x300x300 but I see on the BOM that there isn’t a 220x220x260. Could you tell me what the BOM would be for those measurements

The BOM is meant for selecting the printing volume you want to achieve. In your own case you would have to select 300 in all the three "travel" cells.


my minds:

  • the X-Carriage is a little bit to high, for easy enclousure the Frame. Hope you understand, what i mean...

  • i try to replace the x carriage mounted plate in aluminium

  • X-Carriage with Bowden Setup would be very interesting

This 3D Printer is awesome!

Thank you for this project and your work!

Keep in touch


Hi, thanks for the input, I'll try to reply one by one

  • Yeah, I knew this even when assembling the printer in the software. Top frame and mid frame could be lowered by approx 50mm and Z extrusions could be cut longer (by those 50mm so you don't lose Z travel). However, filament still needs a path to enter the extruder / hotend vertically, so top enclosure would be a bit troublesome even with the mod I am proposing...

  • I don't get what you mean here, the gantry is laser cut in 4mm alu, and bolted to MGN12 rail.

  • I need some time in order to design a mount for Bowden V6 hotend, but I'm actually open to (try) any suggestion as long as I can easily find datasheets in the internet. So tell me which one you're proposing :)



  • yeah...make sense to me, was not in my mind :D

  • idk the exact name... think V6 standard china clone. My one, has 12 mm diameter on the climbing shaft.

Thank you!


Hmmm I have a clone V6 too, so it's a matter of time...

Hi ! this is a very very nice machine, 4020s are a smart idea, and the whole thing seems solid. I am interested in your desing because I am trying to build an extra large machine : 500 x 700 x 500 mm

Do you think it's possible / reasonable ?

Can I tweak myself your BOM to add 700 mm on Y or will it mess the calculations ?

Also, would you share your original part so i can verify everything before building it ? (I use solid works)

Thanks for your work, I'm excited to take part in it :)

Hi, I have no experience at all building such a big machine. Not with my design, not with any other design either.

So here are some tips in case you want to travel to uncharted land:

1) I'd go for 6030 extrusions for extra stiffness and hope they're stiff enough.

2) Then I'd print the "laser" pieces to hold the Nema17 motors, pulleys... and do some tests. Printed pieces in my case were pretty helpful (and way stiffer than expected, though I didn't intend to print with them). You could end up finding out that even the most powerful Nema17 is not powerful enough to move the whole thing at the wanted speed. In that case, you would have to go for Nema 23, which are like 14mm wider, and pieces should be redesigned (I can easily do that).

3) I'd also calculate the extrusion lengths for Nema 23 anyway, because for the same extrusions, Nema23 would lose 30mm in X and 30mm in Y compared to Nema17 (in case they are powerful enough). So better have them cut longer and end up having more travel than expected than the other way around.

Technical) I just made some changes in the BOM and made each axis up to 700mm travel.

4) If you're willing to try this, remember selecting 30mm extrusions and adding 30mm in X and 30mm in Y (Nema23 is the worst case regarding XY travel) in case you have to go for bigger steppers. If that happens I have absolutely no idea about drivers for bigger steppers,

Also as you pointed out, if X and Y are different, better Y>X so the gantry is as short as possible. I'd go for a 6mm thick gantry.

Hi mister,

Thanks for your precise answers, that I'm sure will help others. And thanks for modifying the BOM ;)

1) I'll definetly go for 6030 and add custom brackets to ensure thickness
2) I'll go with nema 23 without even tests, the price difference is not that much, and the duet wifi I will use can drive them without problems. Could you add the files ?
3) noted
4) noted

Since you didn't answer that, I understood you can't share your original files, but since I'm going to uncharted land I have to ask again : would you offer me your map so I don't get lost ?


Hmmm the files are designed on a pretty parametric-ish way to avoid mistakes or at least make them easier to be spotted. I have to edit like half a dozen of dimensions and it will be done. I hope I can get some spare time to spend on that within this week.
About the files, I already uploaded a STL of the whole printer, I don't know if that works for you or not. I should updated that STL anyway

Okay thanks, no hurries :)

The STLs are very hard to work with in SolidWorks, when you update the STL of the whole printer, could you also upload a more universal file format like STEP for example ?

Hmmm anyway the STL I was talking you about is pretty outdated. I'll upload a step file for each extrusion setup (but for Nema 17). I'd need some more info about the pulleys you plan to use, for the DXF files. I'm not familiar with Nema 23 dimensions (shaft and so on).

I just wanted to say thank you for all your help! I continue to make progress with mine! Also thanks for the update!

Nice! Keep us updated with the success/issues you encounter!

Hi there!
I've tried to reply every post over here, but some of my replies, after editing them to fix small mistakes, have been sorted out as spam by Thingiverse and are currently flagged for moderation.

I've just posted the BOM (V1). You're supposed to select your desired build volume by using the dropdown lists on top of the first sheet. The second sheet is auxiliar and you don't need it. The third one is a must read, in my opinion. Everything but the dropdown lists is blocked to make things easier.

If you have any question and/or think you might have spotted an error on the BOM or elsewhere, don't hesitate to approach me, either by commenting here or via Thingiverse DM.

Again, I'd like to thank you for your work. I just ordered the laser cutting and will order parts soon. Will probably be a decent upgrade from my Frankenstein/former-A8 :)

Cool! Keep us updated with your progress and issues (if any)

Just got a message that the laser cut parts were ready to be picked up :)

Ordered most parts form Dold Mechatronic, new steppers from Steppers Online. A few things were back-ordered so I'll have to wait a few weeks. Meanwhile I can sort out what bed I'd like to go with. 230VAC heater is a hot (haha) candidate...

Hmmm that's really nice!
I have a 220VAC bed myself (600W 300x300, didn't need more power or size) and I've done several tests with a 10amp SSR (a bed like mine at full power does actually draw about 3 amps but there are no SSRs smaller than 10). However, for now I've set it up as bang-bang control mode (i.e. the bed either heats at full power or doesn't heat at all) because implementing a PWM-PID like control when a load runs mains is not especially simple. I've been doing some research about DIAC&TRIAC dimmers, and might come up with something at some point.

Mains power is really dangerous and potentially deadly. There's a whole bunch of potential risks, including shock hazard and fire hazard. Make sure you're qualified enough for the task, and in case you aren't, look for a good electrician. Also make sure the place wherever you test stuff is protected enough (i.e. breakers, RCDs and decent grounding). Check local regulations regarding electric equipments and safety.]

Will do! First thing i noticed was the hole for the flanged trapetzoid nut for the Z lead screws. Seems like the holes in the dxf for the laser cut parts are designed for slimmer nuts than the ones available at DOLD Mechatronik and friends. Different hole pattern for the screws too.

Hmmm these are the one I got (see attached picture). M3 mounting holes, Tr10 thread, 2mm pitch, 4 leads, 8mm lead, 400 steps/mm for 1/16 microstepping and 1.8º motors.

Not really sure on how many different kind of Tr10 nuts there are, though. I don't find it to be as standardized as linear bearings (LM8UU, LMK12LUU and so on...)

I struggled a lot to find lead screws that met my specs and once I had them at home I based the laser cut pieces on them. However, as I've said somewhere on the internet, I'm not particularly satisfied with them, since they have some more play than acceptable and they could be more silent. I guess that in order to keep them cheap they manufacture within wide tolerances (aka crap repeatability) and the mean values are chosen so that even the tightest ones don't bind or whatever.

I guess I'll end up moving to higher quality leadscrews, since ballscrews are too expensive and keeping them aligned in this kind of machines can be troublesome.

I looked at the plastic and brass nuts from DOLD Mechatronic. Seems like the dimensions of these actually are available from a lot of sources, updated the DXF blueprints for the laser cutting but still haven't got the parts machined.

Hmmm if they're common and they work nice I might end up changing the design, or even switching to them myself. The second scenario is allí about the money.
Would you mind providing an exact link for those? :)

These are the ones I'm aiming for. Unfortunately the dryLin ones are backorderd but anyway:


Brass: https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/navi.php?a=28524&lang=eng

Hello! Thanks for the specification. I waited very much. There is a question. My table is 200x300. The real size of the table will be 220x320. Will it fit in the middle?

Yes, I have measured on my own printer just to double check and there's plenty of room for a 330x330 bed, as I had previously seen on my CAD model. So I could perfectly go for 320x320, which in your case would be 320x220.

can you post a basic BOM for a 300x300x300 build size? want to order the extrusions on the aliexpress 11.11 sale. thanks :)

Hi! I replied to this but it's currently flagged for moderation. Anyway, I uploaded the general BOM yesterday.

Frame extrusions, 4020:

X460 (4pcs)
Y440 (6pcs)
Z560 (4pcs)

Bed frame extrusions
X450 (2pcs)
Y235 (2pcs)

Linear motion
X rail: MGN 12 400mm (1pc)
Y rail: MGN 12 400mm (2pcs)
MGN12H bearings (3 pcs)
Open loop GT2 belt, 6mm wide (4 meters)
GT2 16T pulley (2pcs)
GT2 16T toothed idlers (6pcs)
GT2 16T smooth idlers (2pcs)
Z rod: 12mm shaft, 430mm long (4pcs)
LMK12LUU flanged bearings (4pcs)
SK12 cast aluminum mounts (8pcs)
Tr10 (10mm diameter, 8mm lead) leadscrew, 350mm long (2 pcs)
Tr10 brass nuts (2pcs)
5x10 couplers (2 pcs)

Nema 17 (4-5 pcs)
Your favourite controller board
Your favourite LCD
Your favourite extruder+hotend setup (DM me or reply here for anything different than Titan/BMG + E3D V6)

Plus 4020 laser cut parts (the gantry should have 480mm between MGN centers, 516mm in total.

(There'll be a separate BOM for bolts and nuts. You can get like 50x M5 Sliding T Nuts for 2020 series, same number of M5 corner brackets, and plenty of M5x8 bolts for them too. Also M5x12 bolts for the laser cut pieces, which are 4mm thick. For 300^3 gantry should be 4mm thick as well. M3 bolts are used in several sizes, so it will take me a whole afternoon to list them :P)


Trying to understand what size the uploaded dxf files are for? I'm aiming for a 300^3 mm printer but can't really make out rail lengths, extrusion length etc. As everybody else I'm really interested in a BOM :)

DXF files are meant for 300x300xAnyZ unless the name itself says otherwise.
I'm currently setting up an excel file with drop down lists in order to choose printing dimensions (50mm steps) to make the whole process the most straightforward possible. However I need to know each person's extruder+hotend setup in order to correct Z. Some setups would need some more mm to achieve Ztravel = 300, some others should be fine with my current measures or even shorter Z extrusions.

For 300^3

Frame (4020 extrusions and 2020 corner brackets):
X - 460mm (4pcs)
Y - 440mm (6pcs)
Z - 560mm (4pcs) (here you must add or substract length depending on your extruder+hotend setup, 560 is for Titan+e3d v6, you must also add room for electronics in case you want to. I plan placing it on one side, not in the bottom)

Bed Frame (2020 extrusions and 2020 corner brackets):
X - 450mm (2 pcs)
Y - 235mm (2 pcs)

Bed itself:
I'm not finding 330x330 stuff to make a heating area of 300x300, so I'll have a custom made one, guess 4-5 mm thick.

Heated bed:
Some might want a PCB heated bed, or an aluminum commercial one. I'm not finding any, so I bought a silicone 220VAC 600W heating pad and I intend to place it underneath the alu plate mentioned before.

2x350mm (Tr10x8) (+their matching nuts+your favourite 5x10 Z couplers)

Z Rods:
4x430mm (12mm) (+SK12 aluminum mounts, 8 pcs + LMK12LUU flanged bearings, 4 pcs)

MGN12 Rails:
X - 12x400 (1 pc)
Y - 12x400 (2 pcs)

MGN12H Bearings (2 pcs)

Nema17: Can't really recommend, I'd go for 1.7A, full length (38mm from the flange to the bottom)

Controller Board: Can't really recommend here either, the one that works best for you. I'm testing with MKS Gen 1.4. Some might be interested in getting Duet or some 8 bit board with Raspberry PI and Klipper.

PSU: Approx 4 amps @12VDC per hotend, and less than 1 amp for electronics. Then it depends on the power drawn by your heated bed, in case it works on DC. Mine doesn't, so I'd have enough with 10A @12VDC, although I have 15A for... reasons.

I'd seriously recommend going for 24V if EVERY component (hotend, board, steppers and so on) allows it. Steppers motors deliver more torque for the same rpm at a higher voltage (i.e. the torque drops more slowly as rpm increases than compared to a lower voltage).


It’s been awhile but I would like to know how far along you are with BOM and this build?

I ordered my Hiwin Rails and my laser cut pieces should be done this week. I’m getting very anxious to start putting everything together. If I may ask, what printed parts need to be done? I can print them while waiting for my other parts.

Thanks again for a great design! Seems you have many people loving your design! I can’t wait to put my tool changer on it!

AVZ, any experience with the titan and the pancake stepper? I had a whole bunch of issues with insufficient torque, and E3D actually changed the pancake stepper to a full size Nema 17 because of that.

Yes, some experience. It's awful, can't push filament through nozzle. And having to use a full size motor makes Titan and clones way less attractive. Pancake one is rated for 1.0A per coil, so I cannot set the driver Vref higher because I'd burn the motor. That's why I updated the gantry and made it wider because with a full size Nema there was more room for it and some extra stiffness is needed for the extra weight. Now I need to order a new gantry, but I'm overall pretty satisfied with all the other pieces.

(Laser cutting process is pretty close to perfection in every piece, it was my mistake for thinking the damn pancake would do the job).

Thanks for the reply. I cant see the current uploaded build accommodate a full size NEMA 17 - Will there be a new revision?

I updated the laser pieces a few days ago. Now the central part of the gantry is 30mm wide, but the spacer bolted to MGN12H is 44mm wide, so there's enough room between extruder mount plates to run any extruder which needs a full size (38mm) Nema 17 in between (except Titan Aero, where that same mount would stick out below the nozzle, so a different design is needed (under testing right now)

Alright, thanks for your time. Guess I'll need to try this soon.

Hello! What is the thickness of aluminum needed for parts?

I had them cut from 4mm alu (5754 alloy, if I recall correctly). The gantry was made from the same thickess, but I'd make it thicker for printers larger than mine.

X travel 300 -> 4mm (tested myself)
X travel 400 -> 5mm (4.83mm for same stiffness than mine)
X travel 500 -> 6mm (5.66mm for same stiffness than mine)

General case (for gantry):

th(min) = 4mm * (X travel+180) / 480

This comes from applying E*(th/L)^3 stiffness formula to my own gantry (X travel 300, th=4mm)

4mm unless you're going reaaaaally huge (where Nema 17 wouldn't be powerful enough anyway) :)

Can you put these recommendations on the main description page?

How much gravity-induced deflection do these thicknesses have when the print head is in the middle? And how much does the print head weigh?

I'm plugging numbers for SCOTT_3D's design with two Misumi SFJ10 450mm steel rods for the X axis (300x300x400 print volume) and getting about .05mm for a .5kg print head. 25% of a .2mm layer is pretty bad; you'd have to balance elephant foot in the center and adhesion at the edges, or resort to mesh ABL (which introduces artifacts). I don't know how much the head weighs, though. And I don't know the first thing about determining deflection due to moving the print head without building one and doing numerous test prints.

Pinch me if I'm dreaming, but I'm hoping for near-perfect prints with 0.2mm layers (or smaller as desired) at >=80mm/s print speed with >=1500mm/s^2 acceleration, and better than 5% Z height consistency across the whole bed.


About static deflection:
All you need for this is your

  • section second moment of area (MGN12 + recommended gantry for thickness)
  • gantry length (distance between Y MGN rail centers)
  • carriage mass, which of course depends on your own choice.
  • stiffnesses of aluminum and steel (70 and 210 GPa)

About dynamic deflection:
Here you have an offset force due to inertia, which can be separated into a force along the gantry and a torque.

  • For the first one you need your carriage mass and section area, plus stiffnesses.
  • For the second one you need carriage mass, gravity center offset from gantry, second moment of area, and once more stiffnesses.

Then you'd have three different "shape functions" which can be added together in case of little deflection.
In real life, gantry bearings have some play, and their stiffness is non linear, so we could just go to worst deflection case, which is simply supported beam. Note that we would be neglecting the effect of all the bearings play, and also that there's an offset along Y which would lead to some torsion along X and even some bending along Z, but this would add too much complexity.

I just want to be sure that the materials aren't a limiting factor. Play in the bearings can be dealt with to some extent using belt tension, printing slower, and/or buying better bearings. But straight up gravity-induced sag cannot be dealt with unless you use mesh ABL, so it's important to eliminate as a factor.

I was able to calculate the static deflection of 30x4 aluminum and MGN12 separately, but I don't know how to combine the two. (I'm basically learning how to use available online calculator tools by Googling.)

The numbers I've come up with, incomplete as they are, are worrying. A 450mm MGN12 with a .5kg print head and no support would deflect .09mm, and even a 30x8 gantry (I haven't checked if this would physically fit your print head design) deflects .11mm with the same load. The two combined will probably still deflect a good .05mm, which, even as imprecise as 3D printers are, is still enough variation across the bed to cause issues.

I was hoping to use a 2020 aluminum bar for the X gantry, since it should only deflect .02mm under this load. (10% of a .2mm layer still isn't great, but it should only cause minor cosmetic issues rather than elephant foot or adhesion problems). Your HEVO_AVZ_Laser.stl shows what appears to be an incomplete design that has a 2020 X gantry, but none of the other files look like they support this.

Would you mind making X gantry plates and a print head that support mounting a 2020? Or could I use your files as a base for doing this myself?

Hmmm materials are indeed a limiting factor (as cost is). Otherwise I'd had made the gantry out of CNC carbon fiber sheet. The stiffness of those two combined is several times greater than any of those two alone, since the neutral axis of the resulting section is none of the central axis of the two sections alone and you have to add two Steiner terms which are the heaviest of the whole sum. I made some numbers not long ago but don't remember them...
Will update as soon as I can spend some time on this

Hmmm I just did some simulations. For 400g extruder+hotend assembly in the middle of the gantry. 480mm between supports, MGN 400mm long. Gantry aluminum 4mm. Deflection is considered as deflection at MGN center minus deflection at MGN end:

Best case (fixed beam): 16,50 microns
Worst case (simply supported beam): 21 microns

If deflection is such a critical issue option 1 is going thicker, option 2 is going to carbon fiber, option 3 is going for bowden...

That's the kind of performance I was hoping to achieve, actually. I'll probably go for 6mm or so just out of sheer paranoia. Thanks for running these numbers. (I wish I'd seen this reply sooner, it would've saved me a lot of now-pointless brainstorming and redrawing!)

Hmmm I just realized that even though the numbers are technically correct (the best kind of correct) I calculated "absolute" deflection (i.e. compared to a 'no load' case), which doesn't really make sense.

The number we're looking for is actually deflection at X=Xtravel/2 minus deflection at X=0.

Example with some random numbers:
Let's say deflection compared to a 'no load' case when the extruder is at X=Xtravel/2 is 50um.
Let's say deflection compared to a 'no load' case when the extruder is at X=0 is 30um.
Then max deflection variation across a layer would be 50-30=20um.

The simulations I ran would get those 50um but I should have run them for X=0 too so I'd have obtained those 30um and thus those 20um by substracting the second value to the first. Conclusion of this is that 4mm alu gantry for 300 Xtravel has an actual "deflection range" pretty much more acceptable than initially expected by myself :D

Sorry about this but I have been following this for a while. Still waiting for a usable BOM so that I can start ordering the parts in from Aliexpress... I know you are doing this not for profit but is there anyways you can give out a BOM before 11 Nov when Aliexpress usually have their annual big sale? I wanna order up all the item needed... thanks so much!!

Hello! Take the configurator and in the first tab change the value of extrusion.The result will be correct.

Nope. This is not supposed to work with Scott's BOM.
DM your printer measures so I can come up with a BOM for it, because the general one is a bit more difficult than expected and I have so little spare time these days :)

I want to make the dimensions X-300mm; Y-200mm; Z-250mm

Then I'd go for X460 (4 pcs), Y340 (6 pcs), Z510 (4pca). I gotta check how close to ideal 300x300x300 is. That Z is meant to reach 300mm Z with 4020 extrusions and 430mm Z rods (12mm diam.)

You'd need one 400mm MGN12 rail for the gantry (X) and 300mm MGN12 for Y (2pcs).
The design is meant for MGN12H bearings (the long ones) which have mounting holes arranged in a 20x20mm square pattern.

The gantry changes a little bit depending on 4020 or 6030. For your building volume I'd recommend 4020 extrusions.

in a small cube i have i have for the z axis this solution and works nicely....https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2378514..so i can go on with x and y with your idea....


Looks really cool!
However, I went straight for Dual Z since the very beginning, since I'm not a big fan of cantilevered solutions and I'd like to try light milling, like PCBs and similar stuff. Also I decided to use round bars, since 4 of them (12mm diameter) are quite beefy while help to cut costs down. I don't find MGN rails that critical for Z motion, given the speed at which it moves.

Now the main bottleneck of my own build are the leadscrews, I'm not particularly satisfied with them. More backlash than expected (even considering that 3d printers are way more forgiving than CNC regarding that) and a nasty resonance when the bed moves downwards at a certain speed range. I'll see how they perform once I start printing tests, but I don't like them and they don't like me, that's for sure...
And I don't feel in the mood ($$) for switching to SFU1204 ball screws, tbh...

Right now I'm figuring out how I'll get access to a drill press, so I can have the wasteboard for CNC stuff made, once it's done I will upload the files too. And its bolt holes pattern is compatible with a 3d printable PCB vise I designed :)

[sorry for the slight off-topic, now I realize I kinda used your reply as a newsletter :P]

My design will have anti-backlash nuts. I know the Z has gravity pulling it down but the anti-backlash nuts will make things nice and smooth.

thanks for the info...i guess many people are not satisfied with lead screws including me thats the reason i use one...true thst the Z its not really the critical part .....i m curious what would be the next solution for replacing the lead screws...lol...have a nice day....

I guess ball screws are the way to go in the future, though they're such an overkill. Imagine that after spending a shitload of money on mechanics, the alu extrusions frame doesn't meet the alignment requirements of a ball screw. I bet it could happen. So instead I'd look for higher quality lead screws.

This will be my tool changer for this printer if anyone wants to know.

Looks nice!!
Bowden I guess

Yes. My whole idea with the tool changer is that there will be minimal waste. I hate the idea of a purge pillar block. Nothing but waste. E3D has their tool changer being tested now but I personally think that it will be too expensive for the home buyer. Thank you for your help as well! I know I’m asking a bunch of questions but please bear with me. If I can get my tool changer out before E3D, this could be big. Lol

Ok, keep me updated about that :D

I'm currently redesigning the gantry piece because the current design only works with Bowden setups and certain Direct Drive ones too, but as expected my Titán pancake motor is pretty weak, so I need to go for a regular Nema 17. That means that I'll have to laser cut a new gantry which is wider to take advantage of the new room available while keeping the distance between rear mount plate and gantry pulleys. So in case you intend to laser cut the pieces let me know in advance (same applies to anyone else who reads this)

My printer will be Bowden. You can always use a piece of 2020 extrusion to strengthen that up but then brackets will need to be made to mount the left and right sides I think. I should be ok with the present pieces. They are being cut now and I should have them 2-3 weeks.

What is the BOM for a 300x300x300 build surface?

I'm checking XYZ travel for other extruder&hotend combinación before giving final numbers :)
Approx one more week

Just got my quote back for the laser cut pieces including the material, $235! I’m happy with that!

Hmmm I'm not familiar with prices in your country, but 4020 300^3 4mm pieces costed me ~80$ in my country (Spain), including material and taxes. You might be interested in looking for other suppliers. As I said before, I have no idea of usual prices for those services in your country.

can you give us the link to your supplier-cutter.....to get a quote for sending them to Greece??? thanks in advance...i m following you from the very first minute because i do have the same printer sam extrusions...thanks again ..you re doing great

Check inbox :)

The pieces that are to be laser cut, are they to size already that I can just send the dxf files to the guy doing the laser cutting for me?

They're 1:1 scale. Just check a Nema 17 piece, the bolt holes should be 31mm apart while the circular hole for the motor should be 23mm diameter. Also those pieces with inner corners where something else is placed (e.g. vertical frame extrusions) have slight clearance of 0.2mm, and the inner fillet radius is set accordingly.

After ordering the pieces myself I made the bolt holes a bit smaller, so it should be even better :)
I printed the pieces before having them cut, and got lots of input from it, but I guess other people shouldn't need to. I checked there was no collision between pieces and that holes were aligned.

Which one do you intend to make?

The 4020 pieces. I’m getting quotes right now.

Nice! Which size? 300x300x300?

It will probably end up at that size. I’m going to be adding my tool changer to it instead of a single nozzle.

Also, where are the STL files for your end stops, BL touch, etc.?

I'm making minor changes on the endstop mounts, I hope I have them done by the end of this weekend. Also have to set the BLTouch up so I can test its mount. Also making a mount for Titan Aero. The mount for Titan should be compatible with Bondtech BMG, but I depend on input because I don't plan to purchase a BMG myself.

Do you know when you might have a BOM posted?

Still gotta check some stuff but I intend to write a sheet which allows some customization and gives the length of every component. It will take me around 1-2 weeks

Comments deleted.

Where did you get the other aluminum pieces? Like the guide rod clamps?

Don't remember, I guess Aliexpress. Their name is SK12.

Sorry to ask but I don’t see a BOM other than the laser cut pieces. Am I looking at the wrong place?

Nope, you're looking at the right place, but I removed the previous BOM since there have been changes and it could be confusing. I hope I have It done by the next week. If you want, you can tell me your dimensions and I can tell you lengths for extrusions, MGN, leadscrews and guiding rods

What exact linear rails did you use?

MGN12, 400mm, AliExpress. Not particularly happy with the product itself nor with the store.

I haven’t heard good things about aliexpress. I think I’ll use Amazon to get mine. I certainly can’t afford Hiwyn rails, lol.

Nice idea :)
I am also some time on the think to make my own similar system Is it OK. for you to use some think for remix ?

It is under CC-BY-NC-SA license, but derivatives are allowed :)

i wish i could print in petg or abs to do some testing before i go on,,,laser cut in my place is a huge expense,,,,anyway its a fantastic design
i have my z axis on mgns and works perfect.....

I printed the "laser cut" pieces in PLA just for testing purposes, not for long term use. I'm still missing a few components, but I intend to assemble it as soon I have everything I need. Once I'm happy with the alignment, mounting holes position and everything else, I'll order the pieces in aluminum

Any Progress? Did you finish it? Any problem with the laser cut parts?

Still awaiting a parcel (bolts for assembling the frame). So I'm stuck at that. Didn't order the laser cut parts yet. I'll likely order them by early september, and as soon as I have them tested and I'm happy with the outcome I'll share the DXF files, which are by now pretty different than the ones available here. The positions of some pulleys have been slightly changed, and XY pieces have been turned into a single one, because I printed test pieces and alignment was such an issue for those tiny pieces (approx 60x60mm as they used to be).
Right today I designed mounts for endstop which are compatible with the laser cut pieces, so I guess I'm ready to order as long as the laser buddies are back from holidays :)

Do you think is possible to use on a 3030 frame kit of hypecube evolution?
These parts can be only laser not printed, I think they are too tiny to be printed

Love this design. Some parts are already ordered

Some people, including myself, have started to build the machine. I'll try to keep this updated with every issue I find during assembly process. Laser cut parts should be ordered the last just in case, I'm testing different joints so those laser cut pieces might change :)

Later if you are finishing testing, it would be also nice to know how thick and which material it minds be the best.

I already asked for a quote for 4mm aluminum. I have a heated bed H plate made of that thickness for my Anet A8 and it works fine. Most pieces (all but the gantry) could be made of 3mm aluminum instead, but the gantry for 300x300 is like a 500mm long beam, so better 4mm for lower deflection. And for short runs, having all the pieces cut from the same thickness cuts costs. That's why I'll order 4mm for all the pieces, I don't mind the stationary ones to be oversized, and the only one which will move is pretty long, so it needs a certain thickness. For bigger beds, gantry could be water jet cut from a 5mm plate and the remaining pieces, laser cut from 3mm aluminum plate. That depends a lot on which choice is cheaper for a given person (e.g. I found a laser cutting around that is pretty professional and inexpensive, so if I like this order I might send them more stuff to cut)

Is there a chance that you also support bowden type e3d? Or maybe have the original file of the mount so I can edit it to fit my bowden? ^^

I'd like to design that asap, now I don't have much time, but I'll try my best in order to have it done within the next few weeks

can you please share the step file

I'll assembly it during July/August so there might be more changes before uploading the step files.

hey, how is it going? Where did you get the CAD for bearing holder...? Did you check if it match with aliexpress version or go ahead with guinie one. I want to do a remix with triple lead screw z version.

Which bearing holder? MGN12H? I just got the dimensions from the datasheet and assumed that whenever I buy them, rail and bearing will be compatible with each other...

I mean sk12, lmk12uu.. Those are cheap on Aliexpress, wondering why people dont just get it from there instead of using the printed one.

Ah, I bought them made of metal, and I designed the laser cut pieces holding them according to datasheet

I think I'm gonna set with Titan Aero with this build. I don't need great speeds.

Good evening. Where was this designed? Is it possible for you to share the design files?

Thank you very much!

Solid Edge. What do you mean by design files? Already uploaded DXF for laser cut pieces and the rest is in the BOM, including extrusion length. I could design mount for certain extruders if mounting data is provided.

did you put any thought to using v rail rollers on the x axis? much lighter

Hi! You mean Delrin wheels with V-Slots, right? I've thought on them, but I don't really like the stiffness they provide, and I would like the machine to be able to perform light milling jobs.
Thanks for the input!