Reuleaux Triangle Bearing Gears

by DarlesChickens May 6, 2018
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I finally printed it correctly after scale it 190% and making sure my slicer doesn't fuse parts that it should.

So check your slicer's print trace before printing. My slicer fused parts where it should at the original scale.

Nice model -- just printed it on an old CR-10 using some spare PLA. 0.2 layer, 25 m/s base, 45 m/s model, 200% size using Cura 4.0 beta on Windows. I think if the PLA was little colder and the cooling on the 2016 model CR-10 was a bit better, there's be less chance for adhesion, since where the triangular gears touch the outer ring is crisp and precise where there's a "point" of the triangle, but the model seems to need more gap where the gears are widest/flatest in contact with the outer ring, suggesting there's more material staying hotter, longer. I guess I could slow down the print a little more.

I just popped it all apart, put it back together (requires some "coaxing" and shaved off the points of adhesion on the gears with a pair of snips.) The teeth on the outer ring were clean and sharp. Spins freely. It's a nice size to show the "impossibility" of the gears at 200%.


The complete stl, in slic3r, will print bridge points between the gears. I saw this looking layer by layer. I could decrease this by setting a negative xy size compensation, but this ruined the teeth profile. So maybe the sticking is a problem of the way the slicer interprets the file. Maybe a higher-resolution file would resolve it?

Hello, Thank you for your great work. But every time I tried to print this, at least one of the gear got stuck with the circle... Do you have the file of the separated circle please ? It would be awesome !

Hello everyone I am a YouTuber I reviewed this gear it was a very nice print came out at a high quality and if you would like to consider printing this just go to this link and subscribe to the YouTube channel


Why would I need to subscribe to your channel in order to consider printing this model??? That makes no sense?
Guess what I did? I considered printing this gear, and then I did so, all without subscribing to your channel at all.
Turned out great too!

A big thank you to DarlesChickens!!! My kids are using this right now as a fidget spinner. :-)

So, I wanted to avoid getting the gears stuck together, and I edited the work, by printing each part separately. I thought that I will manage somehow to put them together inside. So far, me and 3 friends tried all dirty tricks, and nothing worked.
Do you have any advice on how to achieve that?

If you printed it at 100% in pla it should be doable. I've done it by fitting three of the planets in their respective positions, and then flexing the ring gear to fit the forth. Trick is getting the tooth alignment right. When fitting, the two opposing gears should have their "points" at each other, and the two other with the flat segments facing each other.

It worked! Thanks a lot for the support!

Mine is fused, but not only in bottom layer, also somewhere in the middle.
Was able to break it free finally, but teeth were damaged and one of the gears jumped over a tooth somewhere.

Would be great to have a version with adjusted/adjustable tolerances between gears.

Good points on versions with larger clearances. I built around .025" of clearance in, and I guess that's on the line of what machines can do. Like I mentioned, I designed then printed 5-6 off my 1 month old cr-10s with very minor issues.

As I have time, my intention is to split the model into individual gears. This will prevent fusion and allow parts to be progressively scaled to increase clearances. (Inside 100%, Planets 99%, Ring Gear 101%, ect. ) I really didn't expect this model to get this much attention this quickly, but I guess when Maker's Muse mentioned it, it got it in front of a lot of people.

Mine was fused and i couldn't move it. Printing on a cr-10
Also: Why are the teeth so different?

works out well on a CR10 at 200% printing slooowly ... the designer recommended 25 base, 45 for the model ... I had some "spare" PLA and ran it at 205 with the bed at 60, I think I'd bring that back to 200 to try to get it to cool a bit sooner if I printed it again.
I also gave it a single layer "raft" to get it off the print bed (since the bottom side of the model tended to be flat and looked like it wanted to "weld" itself. Maybe a cooler bed, too. I usually like a hot print bed and clean glass to give that smooth plastic look to things. Maybe the CR10 could be asked to print at 0.15 and use a concentric fill to help smooth out the surfaces?

The model is sensitive to first layer height. I plan to add some bevels on the bottom to reduce that possibility. Don't be scared to torque on the gears to try to break it free. Its likely just a little elephant's foot effect on the btm holding it together. Also try printing a few layers of the model at 200% scale to see if that works. Print a few layers, then pop it and check those layers for fusion.

I think the "different teeth" you are referring to is the difference in appearance btwn the ring gear and the other five gears. The external ring gear is formed by subtracting a helical gear from a solid shape, so the shape of the "subtracting" gear shape is actually designed with negative backlash to reduce the risk of fusion.

Hope this helps.

Update Uploaded new version 1.2 that fixes artifact from mirroring. Print that!

Cool model, but I'm having problem slicing it in Simplify3D, once sliced bottom half of the outer ring does not slice, you can even see that issue on the preview of the STL file in here, where bottom part shows strange / darker. Any chance that you could fix this one? :)

Alrighty, I think I figured out what the problem was. You can see that corrected version 1.2 I uploaded just now looks cleaner. Looks like one mirrored half of the ring gear got included twice when I saved as STL.

Thanks, slices nicely in simplify3d now, will try to print :D

Lemme check. It prints pretty dandy in Cura. Looks like some artifact from mirroring.

struggling to print this now. Try one my filament broke. Try two my first layer fused on try three fused, but i caught it early. Not sure what to do to fix it

UPDATE: I got mine working by hacking at one side until most of the gears were unstuck, then I took out all the ones I could and pryed the last one off. A little of the outer gear broke off, but the shape held. I then put three gears and the center gear back in. I stuck a pencil wrapped in a few layers of duck tape into the center as a drive. Meshing is a bit iffy, but otherwise its great

Update: Original file had over-sized ring gear. Corrected version is V1.1.