Loading

QU-BD One/Two-Up Z-Rod Top Bracket

by DDeGonge888, published

QU-BD One/Two-Up Z-Rod Top Bracket by DDeGonge888 Apr 5, 2014
5 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps

Contents

Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

8389Views 1887Downloads Found in 3D Printer Parts

Summary

This piece is designed to be slid over the top plate of your printer and it has two pieces, one is designed to slip over the top of the rod, the other holds the bearing and slips over the top plate.

This requires one 608zz skate bearing (8mm ID, 22mm OD)
It should work with the stock screws, you just have to take a knife or some sharp object to poke out the screw hole. It is purposely covered to allow for better bridging.

Also, this must be used with some kind of coupling. If you just put the rod on the stepper shaft using the pre-drilled hole, the top of the screw may not be tall enough to use this design. I would recommend printing this as I have: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:276192

I can only verify this will fit on a Two-up, but I believe the spacing between the rod and screw are identical for the One-up, so there is no reason it should work with both!

More from 3D Printer Parts

view more

All Apps

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

3D Print a wide range of designs with Treatstock. Easy to use tools to get the perfect result. The global 3D printing network that connects you with high-quality and fast working print services nea...

App Info Launch App

What finally worked for me after trying to print this thing 2 dozen times was to turn it on it's side and tilt it at a 45 degree angle as pictured here: http://i.imgur.com/SgJXZ77.png Otherwise it always peeled. Unfortunately it still did not work for my machine as the coupler lifts the top of the rod too high so the bearing sits halfway out of the top of it's holder and quickly pops out.

can you print this on its side for less bridges? It looks like you could turn it 90 degrees in the x axis and their would be little bridging.

This made a noticeable improvement on my OneUp, which had the metal coupling. I was seeing Z artifacts with the same pitch as the Z drive screw and after adding this they've all but disappeared! Printed with no support and it came out great, although your printer needs to be configured well enough to bridge a fairly large (~40mm) gap.

Can this be used with a flexible coupler like the one QU-BD is selling?

yes but it may not improve prints much further since this is mostly a correction for printed flexible couplings which don't always sit straight. A metal flexible coupling should solve most/all of your problems straight out.

This could cause the stepper motor's stator to bend/warp or some other permanent damage. The best solution it to get a LoveJoy coupling from http://Applied.comApplied.com (item #'s 102133446, 102145783, and 101085962) and an anti-backlash nut from DumpsterCNC. I already use these on my CNC and didn't hesitate to get them for the Two-Up. Corrected all Z-Wobble.

Did you press the bearing to rod adapter into the bearing, then the bearing into the bearing holder?

I put the bearing in last, but I don't think it matters too much the order. Just make sure the "bearing to rod adapter" is alligned as straight as possible on the top of the rod.

What position do you put this to print? Do you print it as-is, and use a support structure? or do you print it on it's side or something?

It prints as is. Make sure you have a fan on your extruder, otherwise it will probably not be able to bridge that far of a distance.

So no support is needed then?

nope no support!

I need to modify the file, my z rod is glued to the stepper so It's lower than usual, can you get me the files in something that I can handle in openscad? please...

Well just to warn you ahead of time, there may be problems with that. If it is glued on and is crooked, this probably wont help much. It will instead just make the entire gantry wobble even more as it tries to keep the rod straight. That is the reason I designed it the way I did and said it works best with another coupling/flexible coupling. Your best bet would be to make some kind of floating nut, to allow the nut to move all over the place but not push the gantry side to side.
With that being said, if you would still like to try I would be happy to upload another file type. Just let me know what extension would work best for importing into openscad!

Top