Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

Ultimaker PEEK replacement V2

by scottmayson, published

Ultimaker PEEK replacement V2 by scottmayson Aug 22, 2012


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NOTE thread the top M6 down enough to remove the 1/8 hole in the center of the part. Have had some plugging with ABS not PLA.

Revised drawings and parts soon.

This is the second version of my now reliable replacement PTFE part for the Ultimaker now in PEEK!

Video -

Photo Set M6 Version - http://www.flickr.com/photos/scottmayson/sets/72157631203052900/


This is not a swap and go part for your Ultimaker. You will need to purchase two parts from Makergear 36mm M6 Heter Barrel and matching nozzle.

NOTE #: If you make the M7 version you will need to modify the DIA 8mm hole in the Plywood part on your Ultimaker. Due to the chamfer to renforce the part.

Purchase PEEK from various suppliers 16mm DIA.

36mm M6 Brass Heater Barrel (w/ both ends turned-down) - http://www.makergear.com/products/plastruder-replacement-parts
0.35mm BigHead Nozzle - http://www.makergear.com/products/nozzles

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I'm having trouble finding a tap long enough to tap 27mm completely through. Any ideas? I'm in USA.

Nice work Scott! is it possible to redesign this in order to make it work for UM brass and nozzle?

Is that Kapton tape around the aluminium block Scott? What temps are you printing PLA at?

It's ceramic cloth wrapped in kapton. I'm printing PLA between 216-230 depending on speed 80-130mm/s :-)

Nice work...Can't wait to see your newest creation.

Is the M7 version to support a larger OD Bowden?

The M7 is for people who dont want to cut an M6 on their Bowden tube. Even though they can use an M7 and then M6 die as the thread pitch is the same.

I tried that (cutting M6 over M7) but failed repeatedly.

The M7 is easier to thread, but even a M7 (half) nut will do.

You can push the end of an imperial drill in to the tube to reinforce it. This helps keep the tube in shape when tapping it.