Anycubic I3 Mega ULTIMATE Upgrade Guide

by petrzmax May 14, 2018
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Hello, if I use uart with only one cable for tx, then I also have a 1k resistor installed in the cable or dont I need that?

is it normal to have a loud noise "I use ptfe steel bushings they are almost silent when moved by hand" on Y travels. is this normal? does it happen on your end? I even tried your firmware. even at 80mm/s travel speed the sudden movements are loud. on the X axis tho it's not loud at all

hey i just realized my clamps are misaligned. but I don't understand what you mean by "use a drill and bend... etc)
I can't bend the clamps themselves by hand they feel like they're going to break

why do you use D15 for probe signal? what about d2 that you used before without the UART? can't I just do that?

You can use every free pin You want.

how does one find out what ports are free :P
I'm just confused since that messes with the lcd and there's a few available (altho they need soldering on the board) I'll leave my X and Z to be standalone I guess. right now my E is the only one using UART because it had issues without it and my Y is making noise so I thought I could try that

Which TMC2208 is the best option? v1.2 or v2 or v2.1???
A bit confused

Probably the newest one.

ciao, sei veramente bravo ! mi potresti dare una mano ? vorrei installare i tmc2208 ma non ho capito bene ,sono un meccanico industriale e di elettronica non capisco niente o quasi , mi potresti insegnare passo passo come installarli ,regolazione dei vari voltaggi e che connettori girare?grazie mille.


Why exactly did you decide to go with UBL instead of bilinear ABL? Also, do you level before every print, and if so, what commands do you use given a fact that G29 P3 sometimes needs to be repeated?

Greetings from a fellow Pole

Hello again. I soldered everything exactly like in your photo. But I can not understand why the chinese BLTouch clone does not work. I send the "M280 P0 S120", it jerks. So everything is fine :D I send the command "G29", it answers "ok" and nothing happens o_O. Tell me please, what could be the reason?

Feeling very stupid. Naturally the G29 will not work. G29 P1 will be. Hope my comment will help others :)

Hello. I think you are already tired of the TMC questions, but I have to ask. I have version 1.2 can I do step 14? If yes, then there is another question on soldering. I can't just solder the wire to TMC, right? It is necessary to disconnect the TMC leg (legs?..) from the motherboard in the place where they are originally connected? I do not have a soldering dryer, so I have to bite off the leg with nippers in that case :D

Ok, after this video ( youtu.be/7VHwcEroHPk ) it became clearer what to do with TMC. Another question. In the video, he connects the TMC through a resistor. Why don't you use a resistor?

I'm not using two-way communication because there is no important data to get from these TMC's. I'm only sending data.

Oh, I got it! In the meantime, I soldered everything and flashed it. And it even works :D I did steps 1, 2, 4, 5, 10, 11 (only cotton), 12, 14 and 16. While I was watching the steps, I had a question regarding step 11. With your firmware, do I have to install a new mosfet?

I recommend it especially when You are using PID and higher voltage.

Well.. I don't know what I'm using, PID or BangBang :)
Thanks for your incredible work. From Russia with love :)

If Bed LED is flashing rapidly when maintaining temperature its PID ;)
Thank You appreciate it!
Best regards from Poland ;)

Czesc. Jakich wartości retrakcji używasz przy obecnej konfiguracji z titanem + v6? Chodzi mi o prędkość i długość retrakcji. No i czy używasz z-hop a jak tak to jak duży?

Gratuluje modyfikacji. Piękne wydruki.

Hej, 0.3 mm prędkość 45mm/s. Używam jak jest potrzebny 0.2mm.

Great guide and tutorial, thanks. I typically reference this guide anytime I make a change to my Anycubic i3 Mega.

Thanks for great tutorial. I would like to know how to attach cotton insulation to the bed. Are you using any glue, or it is just put between metal plate and ultrabase?

You need to glue it to the heat bed.

Thx for quick reply.

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Superb list. Thank you for the time you spent compiling it all together and making it easy to read <3

Thanks for Your kind words ;)

Hey, I have a question. You recommended a 60x60x15 fan for the PSU, but noctua fans are about 10mm thicker, so that's 25mm. Would that fit? Also, should I use a PWM fan for the hotend heatsink?

are there any english guides on how to install the bltouch on the anycubic i3 mega? it looks scary! I've soldered before but I don't wanna solder inside a 3d printer. i'm not even sure my cable can reach high inside there.

Comments deleted.


I installed Titan Extruder and e3d motor, but for some reason motor does not extrude, just vibrate.
I'm using TMC2208 drivers and for connecting using cable from Mega motor (doesn;t change wiring)

Any ideas what is wrong ?

Thank you

Swap two middle wires.

But the red one and the black one are outside ... if I would swap the middle I would not have the original order ...

How did you solve for the X carriage not touch the end stop because for me the normal extruder from E3D is bigger than the pancake stepper and touch the frame ... Easiest way would be to create a fan over that is deep enough to touch the enddtop before the stepper

Hi Petrzmax. Which 2 wires do you swap, where, and why?

Thank you
wire swap helps.

Hey there! You've written a great guide summarizing your experience, and I'm sure it has been as valuable and.helpful to everyone who's come across it as it was to me

Quick question: tried upgrading my Mega S be (8 bit trigorilla board) to Watterott TMC2208 boards and ran into an issue: the original drivers are mounted as a single PCB and lack proper spacing between the mounts of one board and the next across all 5 drivers. Seems like whoever made the board was trying to optimize soldering runs (see attached picture for stepper driver mega sandwich). Any recommendations on how to fit the TMC boards? I was thinking a light sanding carefully to trim them down should work.

Keep up the awesome work! I've used most of your guide to tweak my Mega.

Thanks for Your kind words (and the tip ;)), I appreciate it.

This is weird, I never saw something like this before. I think that sanding them is the only way to do it. But be careful. On the sides there shouldn't be some important paths but keep an eye on this to not waste the board.

Best regards from Poland,

Artur Petrzak

So I bought some Fysetec drivers and they plug in fine. Turns out the Watterott add a little of a perimeter to the board, and sanding would have worked.

Out of curiosity, I was reading your comments in the guide about UART, and your pinouts only list 1 board pin per channel. Shouldn't there be a Tx and an Rx separately for proper serial communication?

Is there any chance to connect the BLTouch without the soldering? Any possibilities to connect the sensor cable to another port than D2 and change it in Marlin?

I don't think so. Sure, You can use any of unused pin on the mainboard.

Thanks for the reply. Too bad, I then have to buy some new equipment to solder such small parts. With my current equipment I am only able to solder big cables :D

Thanks for the tip, I appreciate it ;)

You're welcome :)

Since I wired the bltouch I got another problem:
The bed works as expected but the servos for the hot end only work in one direction. The z axis up or down depending if it is inverted in the marlin config or not. But only one direction, not both. Same goes for left/right.
Since it works for both directions depending on the marlin config I guess the hardware is not defect. But I got no idea what the problem could be. Do you got any ideas for me?

Found the problem...for any reasons in my latest config the endstops where (not) inverted and therefore only one direction worked because the controller thought, the endpoint is reached ;-)

Hello petrzmax,
I have all the upgrade (Marlin_02.12.2018) in your post and everything is working very fine. but i have one problem with bltouch. after probing the bed and start printing the Z hotend is veryvery close to the bed and the extruder can extrude filement. I modify the Z offset of bltouch in marlin code but is not working at all. my start g-code for ABL is:
G28 ; Home XYZ.
G29 P1 ; Do automated probing of the bed.
G29 S1 ; Save UBL mesh points to EEPROM.
M500 ; Save current setup. WARNING: UBL will be active at power up, before any G28.
M501; load
Is correct this g-code?
Or tell what i'm doing wrong.
Many thanks for the tutorial.
Have a nice day.

You need to change Z-offset in eeprom or load default settings after flashing new firmware.

In the video it looks like you use the TMC2208 v1.0 but the link now goes to the v1.2 with UART rather than NC, I've read a bit about marlin but I haven't flashed anything. My Anycubic i3 Mega is as of right now completely unaltered which I believe would be considered Legacy Mode. If I get some v1.2 (from https://bit.ly/2EbrIFx since your link is sold out currently) are they okay to use in Legacy Mode at the moment, with the understanding I may flash Marlin in the future when I'm more comfortable.

My current understanding of UART is rather simple, from what I understand you can use it to change the voltage from software(Marlin?) rather than with a screwdriver. I'm not interested in that at the moment, I care about the 1/256 microsteps and the sound level. So if you or anyone reading this knows if the v1.2 is fine without any adjustments besides turning the connector I'd love to hear it.

I also picked up a Titan Aero Mirrored 12V 1.75mm which I have a feeling requires Marlin to use anyway so some of what I'm looking for may be redundant soon anyway. I'm a little (a lot) rambly I know but I find having everything out there makes it easier to seek help.

Hi thanks for the info, I have updated the link. If You are able to swamp drivers, they should just work fine ;)

Wow, that was a lot faster then I would have expected. So v1.2 is alright even though I don't plan on using Marlin or UART at the moment? Sorry to reiterate I just wanna be sure before I order anything or break something expensive.

Yes, it should work fine ;)

Hi Petrzmax I am doing upgrades- one question do you set all stepper drivers to 0.85V or does extruder driver needs to be set to more voltage? i3 mega style suggestion is that X is 0.9V Y 1.2V, Z 1.1V and extruder 1.1V. Or do I set it all to 0.85 and thats it? Thank you for this guide!

Hello, thank you very much for your tutorial. there are a lot of upgrade that I will consider! I tried to upgrade my anycubic with the TMC2208 and I wanted to do the same. It's just ... my printer with the new stepperstick does not work at all... it's quite easy and I don't think had mistake... my steppers are just not moving. I have made a downgrade and it works normally again without problems ... there are the five stick that do not works... Is there maybe something else to do or was just plug and play.

I'm surprised to see several tutorials on youtube the same as you do and it just does not work for me... so there's certainly something I forgot or did not see. And maybe you can help me... Right?

Thank you in advance for your answer...

Best regards

It's weird that all of them are not working. Maybe You bought them from untrusted source? Or maybe the potentiometer is cranked all way down? Sorry but I don't have any other ideas.

Hi, thank you very much for this detailed guide!
I made it through almost all steps and did pretty much all these cool upgrades! Even the roads :D

I assembled the Goliathus Extruder and now i want to use your fitting firmware. (Getting the display and SD-Card back on was easy, but I got a little issue now.)
I did install TMC2208 but didn't and probably won't modify them to change the current from terminal. Do I have to change something in the firmware now and if yes where and what? Or does this function simply not work and i don't have any issues with standard TMC2208 driver.

Thanks. :-)

You can change driver type from TMC2208 to TMC2208_STANDALONE but it shouldn't make a difference. Probably

Probably a dumb question but just rewiring the fans, the hot end fan was easy as the wires were coloured on both, but the motherboard and PSU fans are both all black wires, and I don't know which 1 is which to be able to swap the connector over. Any ideas? :D I'd have assumed they would go in the same order (Red/Black/Yellow) on both but don't really want to gamble and fry something. Any advice for this?


It should be marked on the fans PCB. You can check + and - by using multimeter.

Why did you disable the lcd screen support for your firmware modification?

I am planning to use the titan aero direct extruder. Is it neccassary to calibrate the heatbed if I am using the BL touch? Because all for edges have to have the same height ...

I'm not using it, it's described in my guide. Yep, the bed should still be leveled properly.


thanks for this great collection of improvements for the I3 mega. I started ordering some parts. Currently I try to find a good solution to add the left Z Axis Endstop. I would like to have solution which can be easily adjusted in height.

Do you have a good idea (link) for me ?


Hi Holger!
First of all thanks for the donate! Really made my day better :) Did you broke original Endstop? I think that the easiest way to adjust its height is to just put washers under it. I wasn't buying them, so I can't recommend any special endstop. But it's just a switch, nothing fancy :)

Best regards from Poland,

Artur Petrzak

Hi Artur,

thanks for your reply. I have a i3 mega with only one end stop (right side) which can be adjusted with a screw. Now I want to update to an end stop on the left side.

The solution of Anycubic is a holder with a fixed size. If i now change the hot end, I have to readjust the z level "zero". I need a solution, where I can do it also on the left side.

I will google a little bit :-)


Ohh You mean endstop for Z axis! On my version of i3 mega originally there were two endstops.

super tks for your post.
may I ask one precision :
"Use Igus RJZM-02-08. These are also polymer bushings but closed in metal case which allows them to ensure proper clerance and they will not bend under tension. You will find them here:

" BUT which one as the supplier propose many options.

Tks a lot for help.

You need to choose bearing which will fit Your rod.

Hi Petrzmax!
Could you elaborate what I need to do to replace the original extruder +motor with the E3d titan and the E3d motor? I want to replace it and I read steps are different and so on, but can't find a definitive guide on what needs to be done to replace it... I am using the modified firmware found on thingiverse.com to run the hotend fan at 12V instead of 5V...
Thx for your great guide and time!

Hi, I'd like to ask about stepper drivers..

Before You will order them check Your motherboard. New version of I3 Mega has 32 bit motherboard and it has non swapable drivers.

How one can verify this.. so this 32bit board doesn't have anymore pinheaders for drivers?

Thank you in advance, Great job you have done.

Hey there, yes. The new 32bit Board doesn't have any pinheader for the drivers. They are soldered directly to the board.

Changing to 16 tooth pulleys improves resolution and torq also. Bought the quality ones from reprapworld. Round and nice

I finally build everything as mentioned in this guide (with Goliathus, but without TMC2208 stepper yet).

The problem is, that I am not able to print anything. Everything heats up as expected, but right after the print starts the temperature drops from over 200° to 150°.
With 150° no more filament is extruded and printed and short after that the printer stops the print with the following error: "Your printer's firmware reported an error. Due to that OctoPrint will disconnect. Reported error: Thermal Runaway, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0 - Printer halted. kill() called!"

Does someone has a idea what the problem can be? I already did a PID tuning, but that didnt helped.

Check if Your thermistor is not moving in the heatblock and that there is no short circuit etc.

Thanks for your fast reply. It really was the thermistor. I need to get some cement for high temperatures, to get it fixed a bit.

With which temperature (bed and heatend) are you printing PLA with this mod? I got the problem that the first layer does not connect with the bed, and is pulled after the heatend ;)

I'm using 200 degrees for hotend and 60 for bed. I think that the distance between nozzle and bed is too large.

Comments deleted.

Cześć! :)

You have connected TMC2208 stepper with one cable via UART. Are there any disadvantages?

Others have a 1k resistor in between and go to the motherboard with two cables, for RX/TX: https://www.instructables.com/id/UART-This-Serial-Control-of-Stepper-Motors-With-th/

But then you would need 10 free pins on the mainboard.


TMC2208 has no super important features like sensorless homing, so in my opinion there is no need for RX from this driver.


Okay great and thanks for the info. I've connected it now, only the TX_PIN and it works. :)

Cheers! :)

Hi !

Thank you very much for this guide ! It is very clear and I look forward to perform these modifications !

I already ordered the TMC2208 and I understood from multiple videos how to change them !

However, I have a few questions about the fans :

For the Hotend radiator cooler, i have chosen the "Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX Ventilateur PC 40x40x10mm 12V" from amazon. Do I need to tweek the case for the hot end and print parts or is it just replacing the one already there ?

For the PSU and the Motherboard cooler, there is no Noctua to the dimensions you give... Can you point me to good fans that I can order in amazon or Aliexpress to replace them ? I don't know much about fan brands... Again, will I need to print part for them to fit ?

For the Hotend radiator cooler, i have chosen the "Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX Ventilateur PC 40x40x10mm 12V" from amazon. Do I need to tweek the case for the hot end and print parts or is it just replacing the one already there ?

Hello Shokishy,

regarding the hotend radiator cooler, I have replaced the original cooler with the one from Noctua you mentioned a few days ago and it just fits in the original housing without problems. You will have to replace the electrical connector by the one from the stock cooler, though. If you have used a soldering iron before, this should not be a problem.

Hi !

Thank you very much for your answer ! Good news because I like the original metal cover !

Please tell me if I understood what you said correctly (i'm not really good at english)

I will need to cut the cable from the noctua and the ones from the original fan so that I can solder the noctua on the connectors of the old fan. Is that it ? I'm used to soldering so this should not be an issue.

Thank you very much for your help !

I will need to cut the cable from the noctua and the ones from the original fan so that I can solder the noctua on the connectors of the old fan. Is that it ? I'm used to soldering so this should not be an issue.

Correct! This is exactly what you have to do to make it work.

Thanks dude !

Wish you the best luck in your next prints ! May the filament flow nicely and the print stick to your ultrabase !

Have you changed the other fans ?

Haha - thanks for the good wishes!

I am going to change the other fans as well, they are ordered and on the way. Will take a few days though until I have time to install everything...

Ok, so something really weird just happened, I started playing with firmware, and then decided to upload attached version, I inverted X axis, since I have original hot-end mount. But...

Something went terribly wrong. It became super noisy scratched bed, even though it was perfectly aligned, and started extruding with some crazy speed :D. I realigned bed, but it's still doing some crazy shit :D.

Do you have any idea what's happened, I'm gonna copy you code over original repo, to see what you have changed anyway. But in a meanwhile it would be nice to have a working printer. Thanks!

Hi, my code will work only if You have modified Your printer exactly the same. If not, there will be some weird behavior. On my setup I have 874 steps / mm for extruder so if You have stock extruder it will be pushing over 8 times more filament than it should.

Just to give you a hint, because I don't know how many people could be interested in details.

arduino-cli compile -b "arduino:avr:mega:cpu=atmega2560" pathToSources -o /tmp/firmware.hex -v
scp /tmp/firmware.hex pi@octopi.local:/tmp/firmware.hex
ssh pi@octopi.local "avrdude -p m2560 -c stk500 -U flash:r:/tmp/firmware.hex.backup:i -v"
ssh pi@octopi.local "avrdude -D -p m2560 -c stk500 -U flash:w:/tmp/firmware.hex:i -v"

also I use script about like this for continues watch:

watchman watch pathToSources
watchman-make -p "*/.cpp" "*/.h" --run "arduino-cli compile -b "arduino:avr:mega:cpu=atmega2560" pathToSources -o /tmp/firmware.hex -v"

In practice it looks a little bit better :). So by having this I'm not forced to use any specific IDE or plugins, which is great.
Deployment takes about 25s including backup.

I'm just wondering, so I fixed everything that I found, and now everything seems to be working good... At the beginning. After few layers E stepper just stops working... At all Everything else seems to be working fine. Worth mentioning that when I use stock firmware it's all good.
You definitely have more experience, so maybe you can tell?

If You have TMC2208 not connected in smart mode LA will disable extruder stepper.

Yeah I figured it was LA :| . But what do you mean by smart mode? Quick googling didn't give ant results...

Connecting them by PDN_Uart.

Thanks! I'll check it out!

Oh, and btw, how did you fix a problem with Adruino software that refuses to flash binaries normal way? Every upload takes about 15 mins for me, because I need to hit reset button in right moment of time, which is a little tricky. Thanks.

I'm using Octoprint for flashing hex files. But I didn't have such problems when I was using PC. I will think about using github for this.

I'm doing exactly the same now, but before I started running those command manually it didn't work. Black Magic. I've tried official octoprint plugin for firmware updating, it shows "success", but it reality nothing happened. So I decided to take an advantage of being a developer :). Even though I've never ever coded for embedded systems. So I decided to go far away from all the plugins and half-working shit, and use terminal and my favorite vs code for editing.

Yup, I've already commented bed sensor, and changed steps to original values, it work now. Btw, I really recommend you to use github for this stuff. It's so much easier for anybody who wants to reuse your stuff. Thanks.

very nice work!!!
how to can marlin flash on my anycubic i3 mega =?

Hi and thanks a lot for the detailed upgrading guide, really nice job.
My question: will you need to reverse the motors connections with the swapping to the original TRINAMIC tmc2208?


Probably, but I didn't test them.

Ultimate posting! Thanks a lot, noise levels down, accuracy up ... it even smells better! ;) One thing missing is a shout out to this


Makes the printer even more reliable and .. prettier.



Schleppkette für Anycubic I3 Mega

Hey there! I'm waiting for parts to make your build, in a meanwhile I've got an extruder stepper, so I decided to check it with a bowden build, I've got tmc2208 installed and set to 1.2v, and with that setup I've got crunchy plastic that is no good for any use. Do I need to higher a voltage? Thanks.

UPD: So apparently torque of e3d stepper is not enough for bowden build.

Stepper manual says something about 1.6-.7 kg/cm... :( . Any thoughts are highly appreciated.

Comments deleted.

Excellent posting, I've pimped my mega with new fans and drivers and the difference in noise levels is night and day.
Just to add if anyone is following the Youtube video for changing the TMC2208's that I use BIQU ones from Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07FQSZ9RD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
these didn't require rotating the stepper drive cables, just plug in, set the reference voltage and play. I used 1.00V as a starting point and have not had to change it yet (but it's only been a day and one small test print), time will tell. one thing though, the heatsinks are taller and don't leave much room for the fan above and the thermal tape is not that good.... be warned!

Do you by any chance know a good replacement for the part cooling fan? mine started making some rattling noises during second or third print.
Also, do those SilentiumPC Zephyr fans provide enough airflow? I've already installed them and I like that they are almost completely silent but I noticed that they provide a lot less airflow compared to the stock ones.

Silent fans always provide less airflow, but I never had problems with them, so I think it's enough. Original part cooling fan is not common and there wasn't good replacement when I was looking for it/

OK, thanks. Any suggestions on what I should use instead of the original cooling fan and fan duct? the noise it's making right now is really anoying

5015 Sunon fan.

Hi. I have two of these printers and am contemplating modding 1 of them. If I replace the stepper motor drivers as you suggest, is it just a case of swapping them as you say or is there some ‘programming’ or setup required?

There is no need for software modifications.

Hi petrzmax,
you made an awesome work with this guide. Keep going :)
I have one question about the X carriage belt tensioning.

I see in your pictures from the X carriage that your x belt is very long, compared to mine. How have you tensioned the x belt, did you buy a longer one or is mine too short?

Thanks for your reply.


I was changing my belts, so I had longer ones.

Hi Petrzmax, i'm going to change my fans, hot end and add insulation. Do i have to make some kind of calibration ? if i have to, could you tell how to do them ?

And about changing the hot end or nozzle do we have to change anything other than bed levelling

Every time You modify something associated with heating / temperature stabilization You should make PID tuning again. More about PID tuning: http://bit.ly/2G7oSyY

I think this process needs EEPROM to be enabled(right?). I have the i3 mega 04 version and i heard its code is not editable at the moment. Could you please advise?

Yes. I don't have 04, so I can't tell. EEPROM Should be turned on from the beginning. If it's not You can set E-Steps in the start Gcode.

Hi Artur, if you provide me with a translation script of what your saying in English on your videos, I will redo for English listeners for you. Feel free to contact me on TheSpaceTrippers@gmail.com. Zesty

Hello Petrzmax.
Thank you for a great guide. The best in the whole Internet.
I have a question. I made an upgrade developed by you: Anycubic I3 Mega Prusa i3 X-Carriage Converter with the firmware by Robert Phan. This firmware is not work properly with your x-carrage (bl-touch probe is out of hotbed, due to specific PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER settings). My knowledge is not enough to edit Marlin. The question is: Is it possible to install your version of Marlin (12.10.2018 - Added new version of Marlin based on 10.10.2018 bugfix.)? Will it work? Extruder and stepper motor is still stock.
Thank you.


It will not work because there are more changes in my configuration. But You can use it as example to modify Your configuration.

Best Regards from Poland,
Artur Petrzak

Comments deleted.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

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Appreciate it! :)

Super detailed and perfect tutorial with a lot of upgrades for the I3 Mega. The most complete that I´ve read so far!
Already ordered all the fans and stepper drivers!
Can you tell me if this insulation on the link (https://pt.aliexpress.com/store/product/1PC-Heat-Insulation-Cotton-200-300mm-Foil-Self-adhesive-Insulation-Cotton-10mm-Thickness-3D-Printer-Heating/3108017_32880962532.html?spm=a2g03.12010608.0.0.6e4d147eLi9ELS) is also good for the heatbed or the one that you reccomend is better?

Keep the good work!
Best regards

I really appreciate Your words. Unfortunately I didn't test the one You are showing, so I have no idea if it's better or not. I was going to buy it and test it some time ago, but finally I didn't. I had something similar in one printer and it was working fine. I think that It should be easier to install. Maybe try it and let me know about the results :)

I bought the insulation that I talked. You switch you motherboard and powersupply fans for the scythes fans or you use another one´s?
If so can you share the link?

I'm using Silentiumpc fans, but i don't know if they are available worldwide.

This is a great guide thanks! I am looking at replacing the x-axis bearings and using your bearing holders.

I cant find any resources for removal of the x-axis shafts... is it a complete stripdown or is there a simpler way? Thanks for any info folks!

okay, figured it out... there are grub screws exposed through the plate that holds the guides for the x-axis rails - plus useful holes at each end of the rail in the plate to allow the rails to slide out with no strip-down :)

Nice, I was going to reply a while ago.

Wow! Thank you very much for the very detailed guide! Great Job!!!!!

Wow, nice guide, thanks so much!

Appreciate it :)

Hi Petrzmax,
I have been slowly making my way through all the upgrades you have documented in your Anycubic I3 Mega ULTIMATE Upgrade Guide. The fans and the Stepper drivers make an amazing difference. I am currently looking to upgrade the stock bearings to the Igus RJZM-02-08 bearings as well as the Igus shafts.
I was wondering if you could confirm how many RJZM-02-08 bearings are required, is it 3 for the X carriage and 3 for the Y plate?
Also is your Anycubic I3 Mega Prusa i3 X-Carriage Converter designed to use the RJZM-02-08 bearings or the standard linier bearings?
Thanks for all the hard work that you have put into all these upgrades.

Hi Tate,
I'm using 6 bearings in total, so you are right. It's not designed especially for these bearings, but it's working fine.

Now to get them shiped to Australia.
Before i do though, do you still think that the bearings and shafts upgrade is worth it?

As I wrote in my guide - it's not worth the effort and money. Unless silence is the main priority, but You still don't need shafts to make it silent.

Ahh i see i took it as the bearings with out the sleaves were not worth the effort.

These are especially not worth the time. But all this point is marked as time consuming etc. ;)

Comments deleted.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

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if I install the titan extruder with the pancake stepper motor, does it need any firmware modifications ?

It will require switching motor spin direction (but it depends on how You will connect the motor) and E steps / mm change in eeprom. You can do all this changes without flashing firmware.

thanks for your reply,
I forgot to mention, that I am still using the stock hotend with the stock X carriage. I am just installing the titan extruder with the pancake motor with a bowden tube for now.

I connected the motor following the same color wiring diagram, but when I do filament in or try to print, the extrusion of filament is slow.

I'm sure that You didn't calibrate Your E steps / mm.

actually no i didn't. can this be done with the stock firmware ?

Yes, as I said it before.

sorry if I am asking too much questions. I know the procedure to follow for the calibration. but I don't know how to update the firmware with the new parameters.

Great guide. I noticed you mentioned setting travel speed to 180mm/s. However according to the manual the max speed of the Mega is 150mm/s. Is that not correct?

These are manufacturer values which will keep Your 3D printer for 300% out of problems etc. If machine / frame can handle it, it means that it's ok. Of course maximum lifetime of wear parts will be shorter.

Hi Petrzmax,
Any chance you have a link to the fans you used ?
i cant seem to find much in the 60x60x15, and 50x50x10 sizes.



Thank you for this great guide, I've done few things so far.
Today I replaced the drivers and installed the TMC2208, The printer is super silent but I am getting layer shifts on the Y axis.
Please note I set the voltage to 0.85 an all drivers instead of 1.2. and I am still on stock firmware.

That's too low voltage.

Thank you for your reply. I just followed your video and set the drivers at 1.20
testing now

Did the voltage change improve the results?

yes sure, with the voltage set to 1.2, no layer shift anymore and getting excellent quality.

Also can I use you firmware on both 32 and 8 bit versions?
Also i get these errors when I try to compile your code
Arduino:1.8.5 (Windows 10), Scheda:"Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"

In file included from sketch\stepper.h:48:0,

             from sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:256:

sketch\stepper_indirection.h:62:30: fatal error: TMC2208Stepper.h: No such file or directory



compilation terminated.

exit status 1

You need to have TMC2208 library installed to be able to compile it. It's 8bit version of marlin.

Thanks for response. So if I got 32 bit board I'll need to use another version of the firmware?

I managed to install your firmware but now the axis wont move with manual commands nor with homing. Also I can't see bed temperature anymore

On 32 bit You need 32 bit version. Are You trying to use touch screen? If Yes, read point 14 again.

The new fans wont work, ideas?
(didn't forget to heat up)

Hi Arthur, I had a bad hotend from the e3D V6 copy I purchased so I decided to invest in a real one + the titans stepper motor. I'm still having issues to print correctly, I think it might come from the UBL... it seems my bed is not perfectly levelled despite my efforts... Also I've encounter very strange extrusion after I've installed the V6 (see pic). Any idea how to solve that (would like to know how to make sure UBL is working for instance...). Thanks a lot for your time again

It's bowden, or direct setup?

Direct setup with E919.78 to extrude exactly 100mm... K=0.2
I would like a good method to calculate Z probe setting as well, right now I've put -0.95 but it's really chance... Although I've noticed when I put that number the nozzle goes away from the bed compare to -1.15 which was too close and made the motor skip steps...

Maybe try -1.05 ;) Did You installed bowden tube inside the radiator between extruder and nozzle?

Sure I've followed the instruction from e3d to install the Titan and the V6... Overall I'm not too impress it's not a big difference from the original hotend at least IMO. Do you think, from the picture I've posted, it's a Z value issue ?

I'm sure that nozzle is too close to the bed. There might be other problem, but let's check this one first.

Hey, thank you for the nice guide. i switched from a 32bit i3 mega (with soldered stepper drivers) to the 8bit trigorilla board. So far everything worked as expected, i only have 2 small issues. I had to change the steps/unit value for my x-axis to 40 (default was 80). The other issue is that while printing i get thermal runaway error.I made a PID tuning but the error still occurs.

Switch from 80 to 40 steps/mm means, that You are not using 1/16 microstepping. Do You have Silikon sock on the hotend? This error offten occurs when the fan is cooling heatblock, and the heater can't heatup to right temperature.

oh ok. Im a bit confused. I installed TMC2208 driver and your firmware and also tried to switch x and y driver to see if anything changes. When I use 80 steps/mm my x carriage crashes into the frame and also UBL is not working.

So the bug means that my x axis is using 1/8 instead of 1/16 microstepping? I will check the settings later when I get back home.

I don't use a silicon sock on my heatblock. When i set a specific temperature for the heatblock, the temperature stays constant.

Yeah, but after the cooling fan kicks in it will get cooled fast if it blows on the heatblock. If You are not using "smart mode" (connecting tmc via PDN) check if your microstepping jumpers are set the in the same way.

ok, so one of the stepper drivers was broken, i replaced it and now the stepping is correct. But my E steps are wrong now :(. I tried to calibrate the e steps value and found out that I have to set it to the half of the default value (btw im using the standard stepper motor from anycubic i3). Is that correct? Or does it mean that my extruder stepper driver is now at the wrong mircostepping?

Yes, the stock stepper has 200 steps per rev, not 400 as the one from e3d.

Hello. I'm trying to level the bed using your method and almost got it. it seems that when i have my corners leveled my center is too high. Any suggestions on how to proceed?
Also when i looses the bottom nut ultrabase pops up a bit. when i screw it tight it drops back. Do you happen to have a video on how to properly level it using lock nuts and your method?

The same is happening to me at the last nut. My ultrabase is also not 100% flat and that's the reason I'm using BlTouch. Center of my bed is also a bit higher than the corners.

How did you manage to fix it? How does BlTouch help in this situation?
I readjusted my y plate and removed rods. Rods are straight, y plate seems straight. Screws holding the rods were hard to remove. I also unscrewed plate holder screws and tightened them. But i removed the locknuts and went back to springs. leveled it and now my middle is even with corners, no longer higher. Also noticed after redoing the screws that heatbed inserts into y plate much smoother then before. before one screw had to be forced into the hole. now its much better. still required little adjustment but much better than before. I also came across this post while searching for my issue: https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/user-mods-octoprint-enclosures-nozzles--f65/fix-bed-variance-warp-using-flat-springs-t23693.html these springs might help as well.

I'm setting the last leveling nut in position which will not bend anything after tightening the nut under it.

that sound like your bed is not flat o.O

Great Guide! Great Man!
Thanks a lot for this and your help. learned a lot.
Keep the good work going

Hi Artur, I'm in the process of installing goliathus extruder with smart 2208. I'm struggling a bit to make sure of my wiring. Could you had more pictures of the extruder (some close up of the BL touch and back faces for example) and also HD pics of your motherboard? that would be great and much easier for beginner like myself :)
Also you mention smart TMC are disabled in your last marlin : I don't understand? does that mean I don't need to update my 2208 with soldering?
Again a big thank you for your help with that project : you rock :)

Hi Buchnoun.
These are HD photos. Just click on "View Original" after opening the picture and it will open real image. There are some closup photos of extruder here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2894777
Only hybird mode is disabled. Every other smart feature is on.

Goliathus Extruder - Anycubic I3 Mega, Prusa I3

OK then :)
I've noticed you didn't invert the stepper connectors on your motherboard. As I did it previously when I installed the 2208 (non smart version) should I change something in Marlin before compiling? Also I'm wondering if anything need to be connected before I adjust the voltage on my 2208 : I bought a new set to solder the wire on it and need to adjust 1.2V but I didn't send the new marlin yet : can I put power on the motherboard without crashing everything? :) Thanks mate

Yes, You should invert them in the config. If you are going to use TMC as asmart from the beginning, You don't need to adjust the voltage. Even if You don't flash a new firmware nothing can go wrong. But if TMC's are made smart don't move the motors from the printer because they will not work in proper microstepping so the carriage can move too far.

Well I'm actually printing with my i3 Ultimate right now but I still have a lot to understand from your guide. Plus I get error "Thermal Runaway, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0" very now and then... I've made another PID calibration and put the right number in your firmware but so far no luck... Might be a bad connection, dunno. As I order the set including the motor for my extruder I've changed the eStep value from 874 to 437 mm/s2 is that OK? I've enabled ABL and need some tests now to see if it's better than before :) will let you know... I need to find a solution for my temperature error first !

Yes, Your e-steps are ok. When "Thermal Runaway" comes up? Your settings looks ok. You can make M851 Z-1.05 for example Z-0.8 or less at the beggining. (lower value = nozzle closer to the bed after leveling) This setting is very sensitive and depends on Your build. If it will be too low at the beginning You can scratch Your Ultrabase. Also don't forget to add "G29 L1, G29 J" to Your start Gcode.
Btw. Thanks for the donate! :)

Thermal runway fixed, it was a cable not plugged correctly ! my problem now : can't find the right value for M851 the nozzle is too close to the bed and my first layer doesn't print : the extruder loose steps... I've tried Z0 Z-2 and all values between but each time I send G1 Z0 it seems the nozzle is at the same distance of the bed... How can I mesure the value to put in M851?
No worries for the Tip I value your help and your time ;-)

I'm using just "trial and error method" for setting the probe. Probe offset is not affecting machine Z0 position, so G1 Z0 will be always at the same height. You can try twisting the screw in the BLtouch. Screw it in a bit and the metal "probing" part will be closer to bed. Maybe it's just set wrong.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2901190/comments/#

Anycubic I3 Mega ULTIMATE Upgrade Guide

Hello Artur, me again (sorry ;) well I've finished setup and started to print few models : so far so good I've set K to 0.2 and Z - 1.15, did the whole setup for G29... I can now print in 0.1 resolution which is great (I've never been able before).
The only issue is I got some warping on all my print despite using the settings I was using before (H200 and B60 for PLA for example). Strange cause I've never had warping issues (except for ABS but I rarely print ABS so I don't really care).
Could it be from the air blower of the goliathus extruder?
did you encounter the issue yourself?
it's no big deal but heck I'd like to print perfect with all of those adjustments ;-)
Thanks again for your help...

That's weird. I have no warping at all. Try to print without fan, to check if it's causing warping.

will do right now, I will be printing the adjusted height for the goliathus :) and I'll let you know... BTW I've printed everything in carbon PLA looks good and doesn't seem to melt so far :-) will do a make whenever I get the time !

Printing it in PLA is really brave especially parts which are close to the hotend :D I never printed which carbon PLA, so it will be fun to see it :)

here is what I get from M501 could you check if there is something to fix or point me to the right direction?
Send: M501
Recv: echo:V55 stored settings retrieved (667 bytes; crc 30374)
Recv: Unified Bed Leveling System v1.01 active.
Recv: Unified Bed Leveling initialized.
Recv: Mesh loaded from slot 1
Recv: Mesh 1 loaded from storage.
Recv: echo: G21 ; (mm)
Recv: echo:Filament settings: Disabled
Recv: echo: M200 D1.75
Recv: echo: M200 D0
Recv: echo:Steps per unit:
Recv: echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E437.00
Recv: echo:Maximum feedrates (units/s):
Recv: echo: M203 X180.00 Y180.00 Z30.00 E50.00
Recv: echo:Maximum Acceleration (units/s2):
Recv: echo: M201 X4000 Y4000 Z400 E10000
Recv: echo:Acceleration (units/s2): P R T
Recv: echo: M204 P2500.00 R2000.00 T3000.00
Recv: echo:Advanced: B S T X Y Z E
Recv: echo: M205 B20000 S0.00 T0.00 X15.00 Y15.00 Z0.30 E5.00
Recv: echo:Home offset:
Recv: echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
Recv: echo:Unified Bed Leveling:
Recv: echo: M420 S1 Z10.00
Recv: Unified Bed Leveling System v1.01 active.
Recv: Active Mesh Slot: 1
Recv: EEPROM can hold 7 meshes.
Recv: echo:Endstop adjustment:
Recv: echo: M666 Z0.00
Recv: echo:PID settings:
Recv: echo: M301 P11.87 I0.55 D63.95
Recv: echo: M304 P165.36 I31.54 D216.75
Recv: echo:Z-Probe Offset (mm):
Recv: echo: M851 Z-1.05
Recv: echo:Stepper driver current:
Recv: echo: M906 X800 Y800 Z800
Recv: M906 I1 Z800
Recv: M906 T0 E800
Recv: echo:Hybrid Threshold:
Recv: echo: M913 X190 Y190 Z40
Recv: M913 I1 Z40
Recv: M913 T0 E164
Recv: echo:Linear Advance:
Recv: echo: M900 K0.05
Recv: ok

I did a ton of these upgrades, the printer is dead silent so thanks a lot for this!
The only problem that I have is that I seem to suffer a lot from ghosting. I already tried different printing speeds, the printer stand on concrete, etc. Do you have any advise?

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Check Your belts tension. It should be a bit high when using polymer bushings. (But it's just my theory, so don't take it as 100% true) If You are using springs on belts (as me on the photos) it makes the belt springy and it may causing ghosting. (Also my theory)

really stupid question - How does one use self locking nuts. I'm can't get the screw to go into the nut as it locks up right away at the top. in this picture nut is in the middle of the screw https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/20/29/1d/2e/07/9580b44cdb13d4002627db825c805c4d_preview_featured.jpg

Where do you get your firmware ? (i think its on GitHub but there is a lot of version from different users, "derhopp" " systemik" etc ...)

Ha ok its the official source, but with this firmware, there is no screen support ?

Anyone found any firmware Setup for MEGA with working LCD. As I want to lower acceleration values as on my MEGA and do not know if it is possible without editing anything else.

Just a dumb question, why don't you set the values in your slicer (cura)?

I am trying this at the moment, to see if it works good. I try to make it as similar values as Prusa MK3 as they both have the same mechanics :)

Take them from the Anycubic 4Max, they work the best. Or shall I just send you the Cura Printer Profile with overrides? .. done.

Yep, but You can add it by tinkering a bit if You need so.

I bought the titan extruder with the motor
Can I use it with the original drivers ( I only change two axis XY with 2208)
If yes, wich voltage setting should I put ?

Thanks :)

Yes You can. Leave it as it was. If it will be too hot just make the voltage lower.

When i install the 2208, i check the others drivers, and the stock voltage was a bit too high with 1.05v on the extruder for 0.9v on the others, that's why it was so hot during long print !

Three questions please:
1 - I'm buyng this stepper motor https://bit.ly/2NKlfUP , do I need 3 of them? I mean, should I mount this for z axis as well?
2 - When I change the stepper motor/motors, do I need to change the firmware as well?
3 - Do i need the 5x8 version of this? https://bit.ly/2L8LHWd

  1. So You don't know for what You are changing motors? It will only work with titan extruder.
  2. If they will have the same steps per revolution, You may have to only adjust the current.
  3. Yep, as I wrote in my guide.

Best regards,

Thanks for replying.

  1. If I understood well your guide, I only need the stepper motor for the extruder, but I could mount a better stepper motor for X axis for example, right? So in the following image, I should change A, but I could change B as well in theory?
    I ordered the titan extruder set that comes with the autocalibration sensor, the stepper motor and the hotend full kit.
  2. How do I check the steps per revolution?
  1. You can do this, but it will not make noticeable difference (if any)
  2. It should be wrote on motor or in its specification.

Great guide!

I tried to replace the psu fan, however the fan isn't spinning. Also tried to put the original fan back, that one also isn't spinning anymore. That is the only thing I did... Anybody has a clue?

It's starting to spin when the thermistor inside psu will heat up a bit, maybe you have forgotten about it?

First of all, thanks a lot for the great guide. I already had some of the upgrades (TMC2208, silent fans,...) but after reading your guide I wanted to go even further. I printed everything for the new X carriage and ordered all the necessary parts. From what I can see everything works, but I still have some questions and problems.

  1. The nozzle home position used to be slightly lower and next to the ned. Now with the new carriage the home position is ON the bed. Is this supposed to be like this?
  2. Where do I have to put the Z endstops? Are they supposed to trigger when the nozzle is at 0? I just don't understand what the job of the endstops and the BLTouch is. Can you explain the process of leveling with BLTouch and Z endstops?

HI, appreciate it!

  1. Nozzle height position You can adjust by turning screws which are trigering z endstops, so no problem here. Yes I think that I have the same issue. I'm using 3 mm less bed in X axis, and I had 2 mm Y offset. No big deal.
    2.Bltouch is compensating bed unflatness and it's setting the nozzle on the same height every time. Z endstops are giving the information about where Z zero is and they are making Z motors synchronised.

Now nearly everything works!
except... he drives douple the lenght..
If a want him at X100 he drives to X200. Same with Y.
Any advise here?

That means that Your steppers don't work in 1/16 microstepping but at 1/8. Did You connected tmc in inteligent mode and installed my firmware? If You don't want to install it, You should leave all pins of tmc and just put it in Your mother board.

did your whole tutorial and using your firmware

This means that your's X and Y TMC's are not receiving commands from motherboard by PDN_UART. Make sure that PDN connection is done in the right way. Check if the jumper on these drivers is soldered properly.

thank you very much!
the wherend soldered good... shame on me.
But i think one of the tmc's is faulty. The Motor with this driver only goes one direction...

That's weird. I did not see anything like that. But may be faulty... Swap them and check.

it was one of the drivers!
Works fine now. Great Guide! Great Help!
one last problem... as soon as i power on the Printer i have 12 Volts on the Part Cooling fan...

and Extruder
only Z seams ok...

I've found out that the bearing coupler you recommend doesn't fit my printer : it sticks to the Z end stop on both side so 25mm diameter is too large to fit... Don't know if I have a special one or not but doesn't work for me :(

Well, I have measured mine and they have 20 mm diameter. As I can see my second link is for 25 mm diameter. Sorry for that, my mistake. There were a lot of parts going on so it could happen but it shouldn't. I hope it's not a big lost for You.

Hey no worries, sh.. happens I just wanted to let you know so you can correct your link for other. As for myself it's just a question of time ;-) At the same time another question for you : can I use your marlin if I don't make adjustments on my TMC2208 ? I didn't connect them on UART yet but want to try the titan extruder and ABL... Or should I modify the code before compiling it ? thanks for your great work !

I have corrected the links - thanks :) Yes, You can use. Unless You have dessoldered the pins as I have shown of the pictures, they should work as original ones at 1/16 microstepping. When You prepare them for UART they will need to be connected, because they will change microstepping settings. Read the UBL manual before using it, because it needs some steps and adjustments to do before it will work. You may need to change extruder steps depending on engine You have chosen. If You are using 200 steps motor simply divide steps / mm by 2 in my config :)

Can someone help me with the BLTouch?
i just don't get it running :(
A good tutorial would be nice
Do i have to deinstall the SD-Card / Monitor Board to get the Endstop-port free?

Hello, I really liked the tutorial you have done, I hope I can fine-tune my mega i3 with time thanks to your advice. But I have a little problem that is driving me crazy, I have put the TMC 2208 drivers, I have put the voltage at 0.85 and I had problems of layer jump on the X axis, I have raised it to 0.90 and now the problem moved to the Y axis, I loosened the Y axis belt and now the layer jump is brutal. I do not know what to do, you could guide me a little with this topic.
Thank you very much.

I had the same issue on the Y axis after installing the TMC2208 by approx. 0.89V. I have reduced the accelaration to 500 mm/s². After doing this all works fine again.

That's ultra low acceleration for this printer.

Yes, you are right. This was a first try to solve this issue without opening the printer. When I open the printer the next time I will raise the voltage of the stepper. Then I will also add the BLTouch, change the bearings and the shafts for the Y axis and the print bed.

BTW, your guide is superb and a very good tutorial for people who will enhance their printers.

ATM I'm very uncertain what I will/should do with the X axis. I want change the bearings and the shafts. But the bearings (RJZM-02-08) are shorter as the original ones and I'm unsure if this will result in less stability. As I can see in your converted X-Carrier you use 2 bearings per shaft. What do you mean?
Or I build an adapter plate which can be mounted on the original place instead of the original holder and on which two holders for the Y axis can be mount side by side.

On my X axis I'm using 3 bearings - one on the bottom, two at the top. Two bearings at the bottom spaced a bit are working as good (or even better) as one long bearing ;)

Hi, set it to 1.2V. It Should give about 800mA to the steppers which is what I'm using without step skipping. I hope it will help.

I have raised it as you said to 1,2 and it does not lose steps. As soon as it heats up, I'll still give you new fans.
Thank you.

That's weird that Your drivers are overheating - never happened to me. Maybe You have to small heat sinks?

Thank you so much for the quick response, will there be any problems with the temperatures on the plate? my printer still has the original fan of the drivers.
Thanks and regards

I'm using these on this settings for about 4 months and there were no problems. Also I don't have any special cooling there, only blue heatsinks as on the photo.

I wanted to say that they do not heat up, the translator has made an error. It's perfect right now, all I want is to make fans that make less noise.

Ahh ok, now it's clear :)

Thanks for all the work you put into this, and for documenting it, with links.
I feel a few upgrades coming on...

You're welcome :)

Hello sr, just received my TMC 2208 but why do I need to sold the jumper?


You have to do this only if You want to make them smart so they can cooperate with marlin by connecting the PDN wires.

Thanks a lot for this great guide!
Im going to order most of the mentioned parts soon and will update and upload my result :)

You're welcome :)

Did you end up moving your bed endstop backwards or forwards for the new sled? Or printing the bed endstop moving bracket at all?

I was moving it when i was using four bearings, but I have switched to three and endstop is like in original printer.

Do you have any prints that you can show and compare the quality before/after those upgrades? It would be nice to see the level of improvement.

I have benchy, marvin and owl form original I3 Mega. I will print them again and compare them soon.

Hello, I've just put the new 2208 driver in my i3 and it's amazing : it's so quiet (I've changed the fans already) !! thanks for the tip :)
I've also ordered the titan + V6 + ABL kit and was wondering what change I should do to get it working? I run the i3 through octoprint so I don't care about the LCD, the SD card support or the filament sensor. I was wondering if I could just make some changes to the EEPROM through octoprint without having to flash marlin as I'm not too sure about my knowledge for this :). The plan would be to plug all the fans/motor to the original plugs, but where to plug the ABL for example?
Any help appreciated for that matter : thanks a lot for your great share.

Unfortunately You will need to flash marlin to configure ABL pins, settings and get it working.

Hi, good job for this post, 2208 driver is on way :D
I try to enable linear_advance, but i maybe miss something and it doesn't work.

I know how to compile Marlin firmware on IDE, wich firmware are you using ?
Im on Systemik Firmware (https://github.com/systemik/Marlin)
I try the Gcode generator for calibrate the K factor, but all the lines are identical no matter what K factor is used , ( i try both K for 1.0 and 1.5 version (you say yours is 0.5, so its Lin_Advance 1.5 ?) systemik firmware is 1.1.8)

Thanks ! (My english are not perfect, sry ;)

I have build my marlin upon 13.05.2018 bugfix version. Did You enabled linear advance in configuration_adv.h? Yep it's LA 1.5.

I think Yes, but, your K factor is with original Bowden or direct drive Extruder ?

It's with direct extruder. With capricorn bowden I was using something like 0.3 - 0.4 mm. With original one 0.4 - 0.5 mm.

Haaa thanks, the bugfix version have LA 1.5, not the others ;D
Now i can print the test pattern and i have the same results as you (~~0.5 is the best for me)
Next step is configuring Cura for the Linear advance, ( Start Gcode with M83 for relative and K factor set; something else to modify in print settings ? )

You don't have to modify start gcode if You have enabled LA and saved the settings in eeprom.

Impresionante post.


Just got through half of your post - very nice!
Could you please elaborate more on Ad. 3 " Your bed shafts are rotating freely in the clamps. Mine were not and this means that the clamps are not aligned properly."?
I'm not clear on what to do here. Should I unscrew the shafts from the holders and see if they rotate or you mean when everything is screwed in except for the shaft holders, but the bearings are on the shafts and then see if they rotate?

Unfortunately I purchased Igus RJ4JP-01-08 before you wrote this and what I've noticed is now both the table and the hotend slide a lot harder, there's more resistance, but I don't know if it's just more friction. Do you think it's misalignment of the holders or just the bearings being not stiff enough? I know you explained this about the bed leveling and not to use the sprints, but I have the same problem with the X axis hotend movement.

Cześć! :)

In every clamp You have two screws. Unscrew them and then check if the shafts rotate. You can also take out your heat bed with bearings etc. so they will not influence this test :) So:

  1. loosen screws in the clamps, so You can move shafts in and out.
  2. Make sure the shaft is inside first and second clamp.
  3. Try to rotate it.

I hope it's clear now :)

About Your Igus bearings - I think it's both (misalignment and bending them in the same time, but it's hard to tell without touching it) Also As I said on the original X axis You can also missalign them easily because holders are not fixed parallel - they can rotate a bit when you loosen the screws.

Dzięki! I get it now.
Apropos, have you noticed the supporting plate is not flat? This is apparently a known issue. I need to order a new one because mine is indented in the center. I measured everything, just wonder is there's a more optimal 2D shape.

Yep it was bent. That's the reason I bought a new one :)

Hey, ok I fugured it out. So the force to move the bed is greater after installing the igus bearings because the supporting plate is bent. If I loosen the screws it moves smoothly. Not sure if there's a way to correct it w/o ordering a new supporting plate. Where did you order yours?

Have to agree with the others. Great guide for upgrades and some nice mods you have designed. Good to see community sharing. Well done :)

Video could at least be in english...

make one in English then! :)

great post, I've just ordered the TMC2208 will see how it goes. I did changed the fans already and it's much quieter so I hope the new stepper will improve silence and precision. Thanks for your help :-)

Really great thanks for this - one more thing I would appreciate is PETG settings for slicer :)

I have been playing a lot with PETG setting lately, although it could be because Nebula Chameleon PETG is just awful to print with (no wonder all nebula filaments are on sale). If you'd like my Cura 3.2 profile please let me know. It's very heavy on retraction :)

I'm using the same settings for it, just temps are different and retraction distance. PETG requires longer retraction distance then PLA.

Wow, great post.
You have turned your Mega into a real supermachine, your mods sum it up all.
I also decided to upgrade my Mega and came for the basics to the same conclusion.
Ordered already a set of TMC's 2208, the 40x40 and 50x50 Sunon fans, ceramic cotton sheet, sheets of 3M 468MP to stick it under the bed, and a V6 J head. I will surely follow your recommendations further.

Thank You!
Appreciate it! :)

Your welcome, you did a great job.