This is a remix of Odinos awesome design ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:90325 ). I used the screw holes for the voice hat, speaker, and Pi from Adabot Google AIY Voice Kit by Adafruit ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2709085 ).This a work in progress so things will probably be changing over time, as I jumped into making an enclosure for the Adafruit AIY kit before I even got into programming the AIY, so I cant give any demos on it working correctly, but I can say that I have made it past the hardware checks, and it does play audio and the mics do pick up sound, although the holes will need to be redone and angled better.(**Update: Demo video added in gallery) This is the whole reason i even purchased the AIY kit was to design a JARVIS, but we are calling her FRIDAY because I think the female voice is much more closer than the British voice. This is an ambitious project as far as future plans go (Im a dreamer :) ) I want to add servos to open and close the faceplate, Leds for the eyes and arc reactor, and honestly I want to add the body all the way to the hips, with a few motors and gears inside....I want the face to use facial recognition and tracking to follow certain people when they come in the room, or even look at the person who is talking. I would also like to add speakers into his hand blasters and a small sub in the real arc reactor spot.....I would also like the torso to twist and possibly the hands and arms to raise into the firing position, to reveal a pico projection on the wall....I know its ambitious but I have the idea in my head....Anyways I had to go ahead and release what I already had so you guys can enjoy it.....I re-uploaded the helmet files already scaled to size, because I cant remember the exact scale.....Super glue and small pointy electronic screws are needed as well, I dont know exactly the size because I used some spare screws I had laying around. i also uploaded a flat arc reactor for a different look. The Arc reactor does not need to be glued nor the base. The Pi base does not fit after adding HDMI cable so my Pi is just kind of floating inside the back of the helmet. It doesnt fall out, but I will be redesigning it eventually, and replacing these long keyboard and mouse usb connectors with some slim wireless dongles soon. That should free up a little space for me to mount the case on its side with hdmi and power facing down...... I ran all cords to one side and out the side of the helmet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsM8qJYnLd0 https://youtu.be/vw4oRCxZ4jI https://youtu.be/m9wqT3shXj8
Video of assistant running a demo....I need to get a white 30mm arcade button to make the eyes light up white when she hears or is thinking....but the light effects are what I was aiming for, so I can scratch the LEDs for the eyes off of the to do list, or either keep the white LEDs for eyes and add a blue arcade button to make the white light mix with blue when she talks, that would be dope also
The Pi Case mount did not work so will need to be redone. I ended up cutting the plate off of it with scissors as it was so thin.....My HDMI cable refused to go in so I had to take it off. I added a base without the pi mount so you dont have to cut it, but cuttin it was easy and that part wont be seen anyway. As for my Arc reactor, I printed the one out with the raised parts in glow in the dark blue until 50% then changed the filament to glow in the dark white.....it looks awesome after black light exposure, almost like the real thing (see picture). Also the insert will more than likely break at the Avengers Logo speaker grill so will need gluing. After mounting everything to the insert, I glued the insert into the middle of the chin piece first, then put everything in and glued chin to helmet back...the outer wall of the chin needs to be flush with the outer wall of the helmet back in order for the notches in the insert to fit right. I glued insert as well. The Base does not need gluing, it slides on and locks in place, but make sure you have both corners slipped onto helmet lip before attempting to slide into place. If you do that, you wont have any problems locking it in, or pressing on a weak part and breaking it on the forehead part. I would also recommend mounting speaker before mic so you dont accidentally hit mic with screwdriver.....I did not do it in this order and I didnt have any trouble but saw the potential for trouble if not careful....
Painted helmet with Acrylic paints Metallic gold, Hot Rod red, and my own mix of grey and black for the 2 mouth peices, and white for the insert because some of the parts that were pink inside showed when the light pulses, and i wanted the insert to not glow in the dark anymore, just the arc reactor.... it worked pretty good actually. The facemask doesnt fit exactly the way it should, but im fine with that. I think it is because I broke the widows peak peice off by mistake and had to glue it back on which i think changed it a little. The speaker volume is pretty low, i think it needs a stronger speaker as well as a small amp card. Sealing the helmet would help a lot too, but for me that isnt really an option because I want to add movement to the helmet when I can find a suitable bust that matches the helmet. Also i did not seal the paint yet, it will be much more glossier and i plan on adding magnets to faceplate so it snaps in place, and also snaps into a resting point higher on the helmet, like its supposed to.
After a little online research about my google voice being a little too low on volume, I found a gem that will eliminate the need for the amp (at least until i design a real sound system). The tidbit is to ask it to increase volume to maximum, which boosted it waaaaayyy louder than 100 on the alsamixer.....I had to ask it to reduce volume by 10% and this is perfect, i can now hear it perfectly over a box fan on high, and window unit A/C on high as well.
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