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3FPD

3FPD-Replicator 2X - Extruder Upgrade - REV4

by 3FPD Apr 6, 2014
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I suppose the stl is scaled 0.1x and is in inches?

Sorry, if this was already mentioned or answered, I can't seem to answer this question: Can we use the Rev4 without modifying the stock heater block?

I printed it and it looks like it works fine for the stock block. I did have to go to the REV 3 to get the pin STL file since I don't use solid works. I'll post a "Make" photo.

Any ETA on the REV 5 Extruder Upgrade?

Hi...The REV 5 is really only designed to work with the modified RECREUS hot end. We are still testing, but things look great so far.
You could use the REV 5, but you would have to modify the height that the OEM hot-end sits proud of the aluminum block, as the modified hot-ends sit relatively flush. They also stay much cooler at the top of the hot-end tube...so you can basically feed right into it with 0.010" clearance. Lowering the OEM hot-ends would necessitate changing the z-axis stop to lower the raised height of the build plate...effectively reducing your build volume by 0.090"-0.125"...no biggie.
Also not all the stepper-mounted feed rollers are not all at the exact same position...some need to be adjusted in, or out ever so slightly to make things work 100%

Thank you for the info, I will try out REV 4.

Images of the print mess to you directly, John……can't wait to see what you think…..
Steve

I'm now replacing the bar mount assembly w/ extruder nozzles and thermocouples………….sigh.

Please e-mail pics of what is happening. Maybe we've seen the same thing.
john@3fproductdesign.com

Hi again!
After a GREAT start with smaller pieces, the large part print that I tried did EXACTLY what it did before……..I wish I could attach some images to show you because I'm not sure that maker will be able to diagnose what's going on from the images………suffice it to say that the new extruder works well on smaller parts BUT does the exact same thing on the larger ones where it starts layering badly and haphazardly………….groan.
My compliments to you still stand, however!
Steve

So far, so good…….printing a set of 6 clips and the extrusion size and layering looks fine. Tomorrow will print one of the larger pieces that I was unable to complete with the OEM parts and that should be the final test.
3FPD, you, sir, are a genius. ….and all this time, I thought that I was the only one!!!! Ha ha ha……..
More as I get some prints done but you really did a sweet job on the overall design. That recessed finger well to swap out filament colors is a work of art, simple but elegant!
I tip my hat to you…if I wore one, that is!

I'm so glad it is working better for you. These are the stories we love to hear. The design improves with each suggestion from the community, and our testing helps to give the best performance possible from each design.
Once we have it fully tested we will release what we have modified to make it actually work better, and be able to print any kind of filament (nylon, T-Glasse, filaflex, ninjaflex, ABS, PLA, HIPS, Carbon fiber based filament, etc .)
-removed the heat-sink, cooling blocks completely, added spacer blocks to keep geometry for now.
-one clip-on cooling fan for both extruder tips
-modifed custom hot-ends(Recreus-based) with PTFE liners to fit Makerbot Rep 2X
-custom REV 5 extruders build to send any filament with extremely high reliability through the hot ends
-aluminum arms for the build platform (reduced vibration, eliminated creep with heat, very solid)
-custom profiles for each material (optimal heat, speed, shells, layer height for each)
-etc. etc. etc.

Thanks so much, 3FPD!!!!!!

Does anyone have any assembly images to guide those of us who are not THAT intuitive? An exploded view of the assembly would be a HUGE help…….

For an exploded view, check out the original extruder we posted under 3FPD. It has a good exploded view to guide you, and a comprehensive step-by-step of assembling/disassembling the extruders. Good luck! ;)

I just printed the L/R base parts at 20mm BUT am not sure what infill you used…………what is your suggested infill?
Thanks so much,
Steve

MakerBot suggests that these parts be printed at 100% infill……….FYI.

Sorry Steve...was in Vegas, and forgot my Thingiverse password. I usually go from 50%-75%, and 3 shells.
But if Makerbot suggests 100% for strength, I don't have an issue with that at all. ;)

Hi again: just had add'l contact with Maker and they recommend that I use 75-80% infill and 2 shells, besides the 20mm layering. Different techs probably favor different settings…..do these latest setting sounds sound appropriate to you before I begin to cleanup the parts and assemble?
BTW, thanks for these designs! I hope they solve my print issues!

3 shells gives you more strength, but 2 shells work fine. We like to be between 50 and 75% for the infill, but these are fairly strong units, designed with structure where required for strength regardless.
These extruders will definitely help deal with the inconsistencies of filament diameter. You can still get clogged nozzles, but if you keep spares, and swap every 30-40 hours of printing, and soak the spares in acetone...it should run with a MUCH higher reliability...especially on longer prints.
Remember to level you plate after every 5-10 prints...just pulling on your prints can put the plate leveling screws out of adjustment, and clean it with acetone every 3-4 prints to clean off fingerprints, dust, etc. The more you tighten your plate, the more warped it becomes. Keep it as loose as possible, which may require adjusting the Z-axis stop up top...ours was about 0.204" higher when adjusted properly...we just used the sticky post-it notes on the top of the rear wall to adjust where the stop hits. simple...easy.
LMK if you have any other questions

Excellent help, 3FPD!
Sounds like you really have become intimately familiar with the Rep 2X……to the benefit of the rest of us.
I check the table level more often than your suggestion and depend on acetone to clean the platform regularly to remove any grease, sweat, dust, etc.
Question as far as adjusting the Z stop……..any chance that you might post some images on that detail?
You rule, in my book!
Steve

Can you upload the STL for the pin, or is the previous version compatible?

The pivot pin is the same for all extruder REV's...I should have noted that. ;)

Hi, this is great, thank you! Just an FYI... Looks like you uploaded the SLDPRT of the pin, not the STL.

is this worth printing out or should i wait for the next version? you have any more details on the hot end upgrade?

The next version is for a full blown custom hot-end version...NOT using the Makerbot hot end anymore. We are testing a modified Recreus hot-end with the PTFE liner in the feed tube...works awesome so far with Nylon, ABS, PLA, and FilaFlex...all with one setup. We will release details of the modifications required, and the new extruders.
If you are not willing to custom build new hot-ends, and replace the Makerbot ones, then this one will work with the Makerbot setup. It IS still under development, and we would want your feedback to keep improving it...that's the name of the game...continuous improvement. Is it worth it to print? Totally up to you! ;)

I have a Rep 2x that lately has experienced extrusion layering issues. After replacing the Mighty Board and other tweaks, Maker suggested that I build this new extruder upgrade using the hardware kit they are supplying. Simple question for you: at what rez and other Makerware settings should I use for these new parts? I see much finer layers in the images here and I usually print at STANDARD settings, infill at 20%, shells at 2 and temps at default……
Just want to be sure that I know what I'm doing before I start.
The oddest thing about my issue is that it is NOT consistent……I can do a set of prints that are fine, then, start a second series while the machine is still hot and the extrusions are all over the place…….then, letting the machine cool back to stone cold, I can get perfect prints!
Thanks so much for the help.
Steve

great! i've been using your cooling duct for some time now with great results. i'm excited that you've even further improved things!

Getting rid of the screws going through it, and having the newest cooling duct just be a snap-on type setup makes maintaining the extruders Soooooo much easier. You can just keep the fan and everything attached to the duct, and snap in on, and off at will. The cooling tube actually fits nicely between the heat sinks to blow air directly into the extruder chambers behind the heat sinks...should help with the comments of softening PLA on longer prints. As always, it is still designed to print with no supports required.

I have a Rep 2x that lately has experienced extrusion layering issues. Maker suggested that I build this new extruder upgrade using the hardware kit they are supplying. Simple question for you: at what rez and other Makerware settings should I use for these new parts? I see much finer layers in the images here and I usually print at STANDARD settings, infill at 20%, shells at 2 and temps at default……
Just want to be sure that I know what I'm doing before I start.
Thanks so much for the help.
Steve