I've moved into an apartment without sun-facing windows, so my plants needed a leg up. I really liked this inexpensive grow light setup from ACKE, but its sharp LED light was a bit too blinding for my taste. After looking up some info on diffusers to make sure I wasn't eliminating all the good it could do by putting something in front of the light, I built this enclosure to make it a bit more human friendly.
This project requires:
- 1x ACKE LED Panel Grow Light
- 2x all print files
- 16x M3x16mm Screws
- 16x M3 Washers
- 16x M3 Nuts
- 8x M3 Self-threading Torx screws (McMaster Part #96817A908)
- 4x Drywall screws and anchors
- 1x 12x12" (300x300mm) sheet of 1/8" (3mm) diffused plastic (I used Delrin, but Acrylic would also work)
- 18AWG solid-core wire for connecting panels
Here's the panel I used:
ACKE LED Panel Grow Light, Plant Light PCBA, Hydroponic Grow Light ,LED Grow Light Aluminum Board for Greenhouse,Grow Light Stand, Vegetative Growth of seedling, flowers, Herbs
I've also included the SW files so you can customize this design. This is a bit of a messy file as SW decided to shut down on me and I pulled the project back from a recovery folder. However, it should be really simple to adjust the bracket angle and wall fastener hole sizes to suit your own install situation.
Print everything out, laser cut two 1/8" (3mm) Acrylic or Delrin panels, and begin assembly. This print is designed to work on both panels and allow access to all of the essential connectors no matter what orientation you prefer. I assembled mine to span both sides of a window, so one has the barrel jack adapter pointing towards the bracket mount and the wire connector facing the opposite direction, and the other with the connector-free end facing the bracket and the wire connector on the opposite end.
The printed border components are marked A-B-C-D so you can tell them apart (since the mounting holes on the PCB's are a little irregular).
The polarity of the connectors is clearly marked on the board, so you can connect them up with solid-core wire as long as you remember to keep the polarity consistent.
Assemble the units by sandwiching the printed border between the laser cut diffuser and the PCB using a 16mm M3 screw with a washer under the screw head and a nut on the opposite side. Once your units are assembled, cut wire to a length that will suit your install scenario. I used about 24" of 18AWG solid-core copper wire, but anything solid-core that can handle 24V @~2W should do. For reference, I estimated the current draw for 96 2V forward voltage LED's each drawing 10ma. I didn't go in with a multimeter to actually verify these numbers, so it might be a smart thing to double check. Caveat Emptor.
Once your diffusers are assembled, trace out the mounting holes from your brackets on to your wall. Drill out holes for drywall anchors (or whatever anchors you'd like to use) and install them. Screw in some fasteners with the screw heads ~10mm proud of the wall. There are pass-through holes on your brackets to allow you to tighten them down.
Lastly, use a Torx 10 tool to attach your diffusers on to your brackets with the self-threading screws. Hook everything up, test it out, and you should be good to go.