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mackedusan

2-Hole Mousetrap Slim Version

by mackedusan May 14, 2018
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Printed up perfectly...well thought out design...thanks for your work on this project.
Now, this old guy would like to know if you bait behind the strings and they have to eat their way through the string to get it, or do you just spread a little peanut butter on the strings? Thanks in advance, for your help in this regard.
Oti

Thanks mate! I just put small amount behind the strings, that will to the trick. If some come of on the strings, that's only better.
I know Shawn Woods drown the traps with sunflower seeds.

Great design! love how it is so much easier to get the strings on now.

Brilliant implementation of this classic design! I can't thank you enough for posting this! Thank you thank you thank you!

You are welcome brother!

This is a great trap. I would recommend a small cutout under the front lip where the strings are secured. Would be much easier to set if you could tie a knot in one end run it over the trap then just give it a few wraps around the knot slots. Having to tie perfectly spaced knots is a bit more of a chore than should be needed. Great design! Thanks for sharing!

Thank you! The trap is not meant to be tied. There are V slots that should secure the string in place without any knots. See close up pictures.

ok. i tried 3 different sizes of string and couldn't get any to stay without a knot in the ends. i'll keep looking for one that works i guess. or maybe modify the trap to work the way i like. thanks.

Ok, I go with 1.5mm hamp string

Got a spool of 1.5mm hemp string and it's perfect. Thanks!!!

Glad to hear. Happy trapping :-)

I have a great idea for you. I would add a rotating tab to hold the gate open during the setting processes. Rotate it into place to hold the gate, then rotate it away after setting the trap. Great job in the build!

~Jeremiah

Hi,
I don't get the idea. Can you post a picture to explain it a little bit more?

Nice design. Thanks for posting.

I just printed the choker and it was so brittle it broke in three places as I was removing the bracing. Increased the density to 90% and it's much more sturdy. BTW, my printer is an xyzprinting da Vinci 1.0 AIO, and I'm using ABS.

Mackedusan - I saw your comment on someone else's build suggesting setting the density to 95%. Is that your recommendation for all of the parts? Or perhaps just the ones with the most stress - the arms and the choker?

In fact I print all the parts with 10%infill , gradual steps 3 to make it light and quick to print.

My flow rate is 95% though for better quality, but that depends on what printer, filament you have.

I only use PLA.

Thank you for the response,
Unfortunately, my AIO printer doesn't appear to provide as much control over the print settings as does your printer. I can't control the 'flow rate', but there is a Speed setting. It seems logical that the slower speeds that are supposed to provide a more accurate and detailed print will also have a lower flow rate. But I suspect the print speed and flow rate are only related, and do not control the same thing. There's still much I need to learn about 3D printing.

It seems I can't adjust the flow rate, but I will reduce the Infill Density to 10% the next time I print this mousetrap. And I really like the design. A slightly scaled-down version of your rat trap is also on my list of prints - which will be used to attempt a reduction in the population of destructive chipmunks in my yard.

Thanks again!

Don't change the settings of your printer, it´s all about the g-code. For an example I use Cura to generate g-codes, and it´s free. I can send you my profile for pretty good results.

If you are willing to send your Cura profile I wouldn't mind using it.. Great designs Mackedusan!

I really do appreciate the offer. But from what I've read about Cura and G-code in general, the G-code is specific to a particular printer, and the bed size and other settings need to be set for each printer. I suspect some settings would be ignored on my AIO, but I'm more concerned about incompatible nozzle movements that could damage the printer - such as trying to move the nozzle depth past the bed surface.

Are those valid concerns? Perhaps incompatible or incorrect settings would be corrected\deleted when importing the G-code into the software? (There's no way to print from a memory card on this printer.)

Even when opening your .stl file for the trap body, my software complains there are errors and prompts whether to fix them. I've seen no obvious differences between corrected and uncorrected models, but have only printed a corrected model - which printed nicely.

I don´t know how you feed g-codes to your machine. I do know that you can customize settings in Cura to fit your printer. When I had problem finding right profile I chose "default" and it worked just fine.

saw the mouse trap monday video today on this trap. and then found a mouse in my house not more than an hour ago. great timing for a new thing to print on my new printer. cheers mate thanks for helping rid the world of vermin one print at a time.

cheers mate! good luck :-)

I just printed it on the weekend, I just had to separate the trap in two because I did not have a good result at high speed and after I was almost 20H ^^ '(so more than 10H to make it a by day ^^) here I can stain them to make a double, now I have to find the start bait them in

;-D I print it (2-hole) in 12h 30min. Use peanut butter, good luck!

what kind of string should i use, could i use dental floss?

but would dental floss work because it is very brittle?

not a super good idea. That string is hard to bite thru

Okay thanks for the help and do i have to super glue the bolt to the boltplate or does it stay in place

A lack of information there, yes you need to superglue the bolt to plate. Just put a drop and press them together for a while.

Nice mouse trap. I will test this mouse trap.
Do you have any experience in winter use?
I suspect the rubber bands become inelastic when the temperature drops.

Thank you!
Just add another rubber band to be on the safe side. They will work for like 2 months in winter time.

So many likes and no comment about this. This is not very friendly to mice, those are great animals. Any killing trap should be forbidden, special for mamals. And this is even not a safe-killing trap. Please don't use it and think about designing a living-trap with some food and water, status automail and mouse-tv to give them a good time until rescue!

how do you deal with a home invasion then, when they live in your walls and ceilings and you can here them 24/7, when they're eating from your food supplies and leaving them unsealed to rot, pooping everywhere in your kid's room, besides moving out. there is no efficient way to get rid of rodents without killing them because they multiply too fast. at least let it be a fast kill like with this type of trap. way better than other solutions like poison and glue traps. the problem with live traps is they only work for one mouse at a time or they go cannibal on each other, plus not everyone can spend hours several times a week to find them a decent new home in a distant forest to be sure you're not passing the problem to someone else when releasing them in a park in town. at some point, it's us or them... thanks for the design @mackedusan, nice take on this ancient type of trap!

Yup, Few things have given me more nightmares than living-traps... for more reasons than one.
I used to use living-traps before, until I realised if they are more than one mouse - they go full cannibal/hannibal lector.

I will try this one.
It would be great if there was some way to know if enough force was added to kill quickly? @mackedusan

You will not be disappointed :-)

I use two rubber bands, 50mm long. 1.5mm wide. Double loop them both.

You should add force so the teeth of the "chocker" is causing a slight pain on your finger.

Thank you Yac,
qdiibp is only here for trolling, don't take the bait :-)

:-D Peace bro!