Predator Action Pliers

by ecoiras May 17, 2018
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turned out perfect thanks so much . a little work to get everything moving but well worth it

After I printed the pliers the tip was somehow melted together. I was able to loosen the tip by inserting a normal long nose pliers between the forward and backward linear moving part an the tip and spread. Afterwards I applied some silicone spray on the gears - now everything works fine.

Thank you for sharing the design of this toy.

Wow! I attempted this for my first ever 3D print on the latest upgrade of the cr10s, beautiful tool, came out perfect and I couldn't of had a better experience entering into the hobby.
Words can't explain how this went, totally blown away.

thank you very much excellent tool :)

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You print this as one piece and the mechanism will still work? Wow, such a great engineering design. Hope it fits my Ender3. Not home to slice this out for now.

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this one has to print within the original size, no scale because if you scale it, the gap between parts will not enough, then they stick together.

I was wondering why that happened to me. Thanks!

Make sure you have it laying down on the correct side. I printed a couple of them and they were all melted together/unable to roll, lol.

do you have it in pieces or is it just print in place

Print in place, no supports needed. See comments below for other people that had problems with parts fusing.

i love it and i have a new idea involving these pliers

I printed my last night, with 1 outline (3d simplfly) and yet the rings inside in one place is fused to the outer ring. Any advice one the setting i will need. :-( 4 hours wasted)

dmanero dude, that wasn't 4 hours wasted, it was a failed print that you can learn from, therefore your time was not wasted.

Kudos! And I agree, I've learnt MUCH more from failed prints than perfect ones!

If the problems appear in just in one side of the model I would re-calibrate the printer bed. If it's not level parts sitting on one side of the bed may warp, making them more likely to fuse.

You can also try the following:

  • Reduce the layer height to 0.2mm or better. It will take longer to print but also reduce the probability of fused parts,
  • Lower the head temperature. This way the molten filament is less likely to ooze around.
  • Decrease the feed rate (printing speed) to minimize stringing and generally make the resulting print more accurate.

Good luck!

printed on a From 2 with Black V4... 100 micro print......... seems fused together..... Note I printed directly on the .. maybe if I supported it

I have never worked with liquid resin printers but from reading a bit and looking at your pics you are probably right about the thing sitting directly on the bed being the problem. I would try with some kind of support structure as you say.

Way too loose, you cant lift up almost anything. Looks pretty cool tho

The Mk2 version improves on that, as does the more grip update of this model.

Predator Action Pliers Mk2
by ecoiras

is it possible to scale it down and still work?

That will depend on your printer quality. To see how much you can scale the thing down you can do a test print of the small GTpp_HingeSlackTest.stl file from the GrabToy++ model. If the "0.3" hinge is working after the print you can safely scale the Pliers to 0.3/0.5 = 0.6 ==> 60%. Same for the "0.4" hinge working, in which case you can safely scale down to 80%. If the "0.3" and "0.4" hinges are fused after the print it means scaling down the pliers will result in fused parts!

Grab Toy ++
by ecoiras

thanks for the quick reply, will have a go and let you know how it works

Looks great, it's totally satisfying to play around with it and i had success at the first print with an Ultimaker 2+

Great design but it fuses for me. Could you make one with slightly wider gaps?

The tolerance is already quite significant (half a mm). Making it larger will make the gears prone to slipping when applying force; it would also weaken the grip.

Before modifying the model maybe we should check how big/small a gap can your printer handle. You may want to print the GTpp_HingeSlackTest.stl file from the GrabToy++ model. It's small and should print fast.

If you find all the hinges in the slack test are fused then the print settings may need some fine-tunning.

In that case I would suggest:

  • using PLA filament (ABS and PET tend to be stickier and more likely to fuse in my experience),
  • decrease the head temperature as much as you can,
  • level the printing bed,
  • increase the bed temperature (apply some glue or fixing spray if needed).

If you finally manage to print the slack test model with the 0.5mm hinge not fusing, then your printer should be ready to tackle the more demanding Predator Action model!

Grab Toy ++
by ecoiras


After how much time of learning in fusion360 were you able to do that ?

I would say a couple of months, but I was already familiar with other 3D tools. Fusion360 is really powerful, so if you start from scratch you need to keep in mind that it will take time to get to know all the functionality. Fortunately the tutorials for 360 are really good and cover almost everything you may need; I tried to watch a couple of them every day until I got a clearer idea about the workflows.

Ok, I didn't print this because it looked completely fused. Or is it? I'm not sure if I want to print it or not.

There are 0.5mm gaps between moving parts. PLA with 0.2mm layer resolution or better should work fine.

It looks really cool

Could you make this model with way tighter tolerances? My Prusa MK2S prints it so well it feels like it will fall apart and I get no grip.. In tolerance tests my printer can hit 0.05mm of tolerances so I think 0.15 or 0.1 would be a nice version to add, or maybe just every version from default to 0.1 if you can. :)

I will try. Before that I have to make the support frame at the top stronger and add some slack for the piston as in Ozcymm's remix.

I also must say that 0.1mm sounds pretty tight! I investigated the limits for my Anycubic I3+ when working on the GrabToy++ and the lowest I managed to go is about 0.35mm. If you want to test the tolerances for your printer you may want to print the HingeSlackTest model from GrabToy++ and check how much you can reduce the slack.

Grab Toy ++
by ecoiras

I will try to print once I figure out how to generate the proper tolerances using openSCAD. Shouldn't take long to learn. :)

looks cool but very weak design broke 2 minutes after printing.

Can you give some details on the failure? Knowing where it broke will help improving the design.

Those look nuts! Looks like something straight outta the Saw movies or Hostil ! I like it. Can torture my younger brother with those and threaten my boss! :p

This is freaking AWESOME!! Thanks for sharing!!

I love the way you wrote about this design. I'll be making one!

Very nice but shouldn't it be the alien action pliers? Given that the creature you're thinking of is the Xenomorph from Alien (referenced in Predator).

Printed mine just fine but it soon broke it after playing with it too much. One of the gears slipped and when I tried to fix it I broke it. Still super cool and it just took awhile to print. Awesome design!

I presume the gear slipped because of the supporting bridges at the top flexing too much. I'll try making those thicker to fix that problem and make the thing sturdier.

what a lovely piece of engineering to look at. Your closing para made me laugh too: "The thing looks mean but its grip is actually not very strong. In fact as a grabbing tool is not very useful at all. Still, it prints-in-place without supports and it closes when you push, so I think the design specifications have been met, making the project a great success."

great work and thank you!

Oh man i see a remix of these and https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:329611 happening later tonight LOL

T-Rex Finger Puppet