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Filboyt

2020 / Ender 3 Filament Guide

by Filboyt May 18, 2018
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Just wanted to say thank you for this. :)

Good job it works perfect!!!

Thank just Perfekt !

genial. para mi ender 3 y cr10s pro. gracias

A very fine addition to my Ender 3.

Worked awesome for me. Thank you.

Temporary solution out of the tool box

love it! use what you've already got on hand.

This worked great for me. I used the rigid mount
.

Unfortunately this one isn't the best for me, I found that the two pieces didn't fit properly and had to file them down to work, also the gap to fit filament through is too tight and crunches the filament.

will be trying this model instead for the filament cleaning https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3685710

V4 More Rigid Mount 2020 Ender 3 Filament Guide & Cleaner

will this fit on a cr-10 S5?

Thanks. this was a nice addition to my new ender 3 pro. I send you a tip as a small thank you

Breaks PLA filament - without this i've no breakage issues.

First print on my new Ender 3 Pro, it'll do the job but unfortunately it snapped when fitting the filament holder part to the clip. The end of the holder was to big (or the clip too small? Fits the frame fine though). What have I done wrong? http://imgur.com/a/yCoismh

Have the 2 screws on the arm by filament intake / Z screw be slightly loose to prevent height binding. Is your line width set to .35?

I have those screws 1 turn loose. Think I printed at 0.15 layer height, but I left all the other settings in Cura as they were, so line width was on 0.4. I seem to be getting corners that protrude slightly, not sure if that's the model or bad settings

This was the 1st print i did on my ender 3 and printed really well, thanks.

Someone please share the slicer settings on Cura for this!!

Just use the inbuild "Draft" settings. Works like a charm on an Ender3. I didn't use supports for mine.

We printed and used this filament guide. It took a little bit to make the connector fit into the 80/20 frame end. We shaved the connector a little bit where it was catching and then it fit snug and tight. Works well and helps a lot to prevent the filament locking up on itself.
Great device and thanks for putting this out there.

Awesome print. Very sturdy. I didn't realize until after I printed that it does not work with the model I have. Any chance you know how I could change the open arm to be full at the end with a cylinder on it like the ones in this other guide? I like yours much better but need a cylinder to drop into my opening. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Great little add-on to the Ender 3. First proper thing I printed. Wasn't quite perfect in terms of the printing and the connector has snapped a little. It'll do, though, until I can dial in and re-print it better :-) Thank you!

One of the first prints. Choose the one with the opening, it's easy to change fillament and installation. Great design!
Make this the first print after calibration!

One of my first prints. Came out really nice, although I now wish I had printed the model with the opening for easier installation/removal.

Imprimé en quallité brouillon 0,2 mm en PLA sans le moindre problème. Température buse 210°C. Température plateau 60°C. L'impression est simple mais le remplissage à 20% est trop juste et la pièce est fonctionnelle mais fragile. Un remplissage plus important est préférable même de 5%.

Second print in my Ender-3, for my Ender-3. Thanks for the design. Working nicely.

This was my first print after the test dog. The parts fit perfectly and snapped on the rail nicely. Thank you!!

Thanks for the design! Like another commenter, I found the filament was cutting a rut into the original, so I remixed it a bit to add a V-Groove bearing.

Comments deleted.

fit kinda loose for me, might try to scale it up 2%-5%

It fit, but wasn't quite right. Ended up cracking/splitting base. Still works fine though.

This fits perfectly and works really well , thanks .

it didn't fit my ender 3

I printed this when i first got my printer. The hole at the end of the guide has a rut in it from the filament passing through it.
It also broke at the part where it connects on the railing, cause under extrusion and ruining a 50 hr prints I was doing. I reprinted the end bracket and it doesn't even fit. Please help?

Worked first try, and fits like a glove.

on my new ender 3 pro (production date feb, 2019) it fitted well right after printing, but became a little bit lose after one day or so.. Just try to scale up the part that snaps into the frame 2-4%. I did it with 2%, now it fits strong.

Unfortunately, the end clip does not fit into the 2020 Alu rail of my new Ender 3 Pros! Have printed this twice ...
Can you customize that?

good job. merci
ender 3 pro, ice filament
mais pour ma part, l'ouverture de l'anneau n'est pas bien placée, le fil s'enlève régulièrement
j'ai changé pour l'anneau fermé du coup

Works great. Fits like a glove. For the life of me I could not keep that open end where you fit the filament in from slightly curling off the bed. This is even on a glass bed with hairspray that never fails me. However, I let it ride and the end result is great. Thanks.

Printed well and works great, thanks.

I just made my 1st 3D print from this file. It was fun watching it print! Looking forward to making more parts for my Ender3.
Many thanks,
Bob

Hello Maker!

Do you have a suitable clip for a role of 3DJake?

I know of the online shop, Unclear of what you mean though. sorry

How can i help you?

Hello Maker ;)

Thank you for this model.! Really usefull, fitted right away on my new Creality CR20 Pro! Nicely done!

End clip need fix. I can't put it inside my printer, also this second part it's destroying end clip

Make sure the 2 screws by the Z screw are not tight, it will cause binding. A small amount of binding in height will cause parts to be wider than intended due to compression. This is common with many types of printer, You want your Z to raise and lower as smooth as possible.

Same issue here, what can be the problem?

Thanks for this design.

My Ender 3 came with this on (second hand) but the end cap had snapped so I printed another which is much better (I've managed to calibrate it a lot better than the last owner). All great except the filament was squeaking a bit when it went through. It didn't do this before but I've moved my spool to fit an LED strip so that may have caused the issue or perhaps I needed to sand it down inside?

But my fix is simple. I've cut an opening out of a rubber washer and glued it on, slightly offset towards the gap so the filament rubs against the rubber and not the PLA. Instant fix. I used the first decent glue I had to hand which was Nural 21 (aimed at cold metal but works on most things as well). Sorry for the crappy picture but you get the idea.

Good idea, I am also getting the squeaking problem so i'll have to give this a go.

Nice fix! Also i love helping others dial in a printer to that "might as well be perfect" feel.

This one didn't work for me. First the base broke off from the extrusion, then I made it stouter then was hard to get into the end of the extrusion, then the force of the filament caused the guide to fall off. I am going to try one that has a T nut to hold the base.

Printed at 20% infill. Came out beautifully. Took a bit of force to get together - very sturdy as a result.

New to 3D printing. The flat guide connection piece is larger than the opening to the clip end. printed pieces right after downloading. No changes were made to the printer settings. What am I doing wrong?

My print turned out beautiful on an Ender 3 with Cura and some settings changed, but I didn’t get a perfect fit as I was hoping for. The filament slid through the opening just a bit snuggly which was fine by me, but there was no friction fit for the end clip. The two pieces fit together just fine, but it’s more dangling off the extrusion than solidly attached. I don’t think any of the settings I changed would have altered the size of the part, but if the fit is just me, then perhaps??? Does anyone else have issues with the parts being too small?

Printed on Ender 3 using recommended Cura settings and printed and fit perfect!

New to 3D printing. After 6 attempts and 2 different slicers, I finally got this printed! Thanks!

What settings did you use?

My first 3D-Printer Mod. Nice and helpful. BUT: On the Ender 3 Pro, if you want to use the full Z-axis, be aware that the smaller part blocks the wheels. I have no comparisson to the normal Ender 3, but it might be one difference.

Till now I had no issue with this during printing, as I only had smaller parts. I spotted this during maintenance.

Maybe a rail top mount would be usefull.

Hello I have a problem
What do i have to do after download the files.If I unpack them and take it over to the microSD,after the inserting of the card are no other files than the standard files showen to me in the menu.And yes i refreshed the sd card in the menu.

download a program called CURA from ultimaker. it is a slicer program that converts the 3d object to printable code.
Instructions and general guide is here. https://all3dp.com/1/cura-tutorial-software-slicer-cura-3d/

One of my first useful prints, printed great and works a treat. Cheers!

The end clip required modding to fit my CR-10S Pro and then wouldn't stay fixed in place well as the prongs ended up too short due to placement of the Z-Axis stepper motor screws.,

So I just did a remix of just the end clip part to turn it into a friction fit bracket that clips over the top rail of my CR10-S Pro with clearance for the Z-Axis stepper.

Arm just snaps right in, and it's held in place really well. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3351620

Thanks for the model Filboyt!

CR-10S Pro top rail clip-on attachment for Filboyt's 2020 / Ender 3 Filament Arm

The arm was the first and only thing I've fully successfully printed on my new ender 3. The end clip will not complete properly and I have tried countless times(2 dozen at least). The result is fairly identical on every attempt despite the changes I make. Around here in the build, the extruder will always get caught on a random glob in the print and become unseated from the plate. I sincerely hope someone here might be able to guide me through whatever the issue may be. I hope the attached picture and settings will help identify the problem.

Current settings:
layer height: 0.1
initial layer height: 0.3
line width 0.36
infill density: 20%
infill pattern: grid
printing temperature: 200
plate temperature: 60
Flow: 98%
retraction distance: 6
retraction speed: 45
retraction min travel: 1.4
print speed: 45
travel speed: 70
initial layer speed: 20
build plate adhesion: brim

I believe these are all the relevant settings, I've been testing anything I could think of and reading comments to try and find an optimal solution, no luck thus far clearly. I'm a new 3d printer owner with only countless failures for experience so far, so help greatly appreciated.

Welcome to the world of 3d Printing!

For the clip, try to set line width to .35.
layer height to .3, initial is fine.
Lower your temp to 195 nozzle.
retract speed 56
retract min travel to .9
print speed 40.
enable optimize wall printing order.

Best of luck and post the results good or bad.

I'm new to 3d printing, and had issues printing the cap. it turned out way too flat :) these settings resulted in a perfect end cap that was easy to place! Thanks!

On reccomended cura settings I got an end piece that was workable, it doesnt fit snug but its manageable. I used these settings that you suggested hoping for a better fit onto the printer and the result was an endcap that was very brittle and snapped almost instantly when I tried fitting.

I think the issue for me is that the middle circular piece of the endcap that is supposed to fit into the hole of the ender 3 is too thick. And I believe this is preventing my print from fitting into the slot.

If you have any advice please let me know! If not I will manage, thank you so much for the print!

Time and time again I'm getting layer shift on the y axis not long after the print gets to the prongs on the clip. I've checked the belt for that axis and it's perfectly snug. I do notice that there's an awful lot of hard clunking that eventually results in either shifting layers or plate adhesion failing. My z axis goes up and down really smoothly, I'm wondering if maybe it's dropping ever so slightly during the print causing hard contacts to occur.

On the gantry arm next to the power supply is a hex nut behind the wheel. that is a cam style tightener. That wheel should be just tight enough against the vert rail that it cannot be wiggled or free-spun. that can cause issues at random heights.

tightened that up a bit, still getting shifting on the y axis and I just can't figure out how to deal with it. My printer is just not cooperating with me at all.

This was the first print after the printer was calibrated. It came out perfectly and it works like a charm. No filing and such needed. Thank you!

The center pin will need a bit of filing!! Otherwise, good to go!

The End Clip didn't fit until I dismanteld a half of the middle "pin". I think the diameter is to big for my hole.. (no pun intended). Even then it was some work to get it fit. Right now I'm printing the open guide.

Printed it with Ender 3 Pro and slicer was Cura 3.6.0 with default Profile for the Ender 3 and print setup was normal I think (0.15mm and 60mm/s)

Center pin diameter needs to be reduced 5-10% or put a slice through it perpendicular to the one that is there.

Center pin diameter reduced.

Printing it now, Ill let you know how it comes out.

I also agree. Diameter of the center pin is to large.

Agree. Had the same problem with the center hole on the clip not fitting.

This is great but I'd love to use the lowered without having to feed my spool through it or cutting a hole in it, would it be possible to add the opening to that one as well?

new to printing and was one of my first prints. thank you

first thing I made after he dog on my ender 3. works a treat. thanks for sharingt

One of my first makes ever! I really enjoy it. However, my only critique for it is that the notch to slide the filament in should be on the end or on the opposite side. My filament keeps popping out if the spool gets loose feeding. Not a major downfall at all and sliding it back in is super easy. I recommend using over 10% infill though, had a small tear out from removing the piece from the raft.

Works great for my Ender-3. Thanks for sharing

Worked really well, print was nice on my Ender-3.
I did manage to make the clip pull out but I did have a reasonable size LED flexi light clipped to it and even then it only shifted a little and didn't completely pull out.

The middle pin for the base model is just awful. It prevents it from snapping into the printer and breaks off easily (it is now stuck inside the frame). The friction of the four "arm" prongs is enough to keep it held up so do yourself a favor and just break off the middle part where it attaches.

For printers that are not calibrated completely the center pin does what its built to do just fine. Just remember to clean out any stranding so the 2 halves can flex.

Can you please explain a little more the settings used?
I printed the end clip but can't put it in the printer because it don't fit, and the guide v3 don't fit in the end clip...

Thanks

Flow at 98% is the sweet spot for every ender 3 i have used.
line width .35.
Keep the 2 screws near your Z-Screw nearly loose (right where filament is inserted) to prevent height squishing, it happens really easily on barely tight screws. Wrecks the calibration.
For the end clip use line or grid support (support line distance 1.8 to 2.2 is best).
If calibration is still a bit off and clip wont snap into place, Heat the prongs up with a lighter and slip into place while warm. don't overheat it though.

By line width do you mean Wall Thickness? And by saying to use the wall of grid support for the end clip, do you mean infill? What infill density provides the best amount of strength for the end clip? I'm guessing the end clip will need supports, or is it small enough not to need them?

Line width is it's own setting. In cura you may need to enable it under quality, where layer height is. If you use a standard .4mm nozzle you should have it's line width at .35 or .36. I use Gyroid infil at 10-15%.
For support pattern use grid, you may need to enable support pattern selection. As well as Support line distance (It replaces support density %).
I don't go by wall thickness, I like wall line count. usually 5 walls is great for most sturdy projects.
The grid support in pic is an example of overkill.

printed great used a brim for the the end clip after two adhesion fails, flat guide flawless first time very nice snug fitting parts, great job thank you

I just finished printing the Lowered Guide. I printed it in the orientation that the file came in. It required a lot of support and a lot of sanding afterward. It fits and works fine, but the sanded surface is facing upwards and looks bad. Is there a better way to print this?

Thanks for the feedback. I'm sorry it was not top form.
I printed mine using concentric support with line distance at 3.2mm. should only need a quick tap from a lighter to eliminate the discoloring from support lines. I have a hinged dragon-tail variant i'm stress testing to replace the lowered with.

Nice design thanks and I printed this.
At the first print I had some problems with the ring. The ring went up during printing (see pics), causing the nozzle to move the print. end of first print.
In the second print I pushed the ring down with the putty knife during printing. this went fine.
Is there a reason why the ring went up?

if it did'nt rise like that in your slicer, bed adhesion would be my next check

Could not get the end cap to work. It keeps comiing out of the horizontal bar end. It will not fully insert because the vertical support snags on the bottom of the end cap. Its about 1mm too low but knifing off 1mm of PLA causes it to break.

The arm is beautiful and printed nicely.

if its giving you a slight issue, use a lighter to heat up the part and trim warm or wiggle into place.

Nice make, Thanks for sharing.

This works great but make sure to print the small piece with lots of infill BC it tends to snap off.

I've had about 5 end clips snap after use. I've tried various infill %s with mild success on ~65% but in the end it will still snap on the same side.

It's a great idea and I'm glad it has worked for others!

If at all possible could you describe where your filament is set (center of printer top / side?). I'm interested in knowing what stresses are being placed on it from a structural perspective. I have my spool about holder level with the inside of left pillar on all models.

Facing my Ender 3 it's on the top left. It's always the same piece that breaks:the rear 2020 insertion on the end clip.

High stresses to this part may be due to a bad roll of filament as I have noticed some tangling on this filament roll.

i would love it if the opening slot would be on the other side or the front, my high retraction makes the filament slide of :(

agreed! My filament always seems to slip out.

I will Upload an altered version shortly. Whats your retraction settings?

I got exactly the same problem.. it has only got like 1mm of space before it slides out all the time.

Edit: I've uploaded a remix of this file with the opening on the other side.

Comments deleted.

Im having problems with the open filament arm. It prints fine but when I put it into use maybe a few prints go by and the tension of the filament from the spool is like snapping the arm in half. Any ideas how I might strengthen this piece, or any possible other solutions? Thanks

how many walls and what type and % of infill are you using? I printed it with 6 walls and 15% infill Grid pattern and its plenty strong.
Have you made any spool holders to help the spool itself roll freely? Like https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3152721

Creality 3D Ender 3 - Spool Holder - Better unroll your filament

Sorry to bother you but also one more question, what would be the reason that the connecting piece is coming out so big? and misshapen. the one side seems fine but the other keeps printing weirdly

It really looks like you are still binding on height. have you adjusted tension on x and y?
What is your print speed? Flow setting? Line width?

print speed is 45mm/s, Flow 98%, Line width 0.38mm.

Ah, Thanks so much both options worked!

Mine worked like a charm, I opted for the open since i dont always wanna thread it trough

I have just purchased an ender 3 and everything is set up, my fist print was going to be something that would aid in future prints, a guide for the filament I attempted the print in ABS with a bed temp of 110 and a extruder temp of 230 as slic3r recommends and followed the rest of the settings suggested.

As you can see form the print I stopped around 3/4 in as there seemed little point in continuing can any one offer any suggestions as to what went wrong?

loosen the 2 screws that are by the extruder input on both sides of the Z height screw. these should barely be finger tight as they will bind and wreck height raises in prints.
ABS is tricky as it wants to cool as slow as possible or it will shrink, you want some sort of enclosure for abs and cooling fan off. keep it warm.
I'd first suggest to swap to PLA and run a few bed level tests downloadable on thingiverse to make your first layers near perfect. you want no gaps in your lines.

My current settings for the Ender-3 =
Layer height .13, Initial layer Height .13, Line width 0.36 is very important, fill gaps between wall = no, Flow 98%, retraction distance 6mm, retraction speed 56, min travel 1.4mm, print speed 45, travel speed 70, first layer speed 20

3rd day of having an Ender. My pc crashed yesterday so I needed to go again to your post. These settings have been very usefull. My print is still not perfect (had to sand the insert part of the holder a little bit) but your settings really helped.

needed a little bit of force an sanding but at the end, perfect result. Many thanks :)!

Works well for the CR-20. Many thanks

i had problems with the end clip , it would never fit at last i removed the middle attachment of the end clip and it worked like a charm, thanks .

This looks darn simple but I'm having such a hard time with the end clip. A previous attempt at fitting it broke off and left a piece stuck inside the extrusion's middle hole, which I can't get out now. Now I'm trying to fit a new one of those and it won't go all the way in, it's already pretty tight. I got it in with a hammer but the pin came through the printed piece, I cut it off. So pretty much I have a end clip with out the pin, and that seems to work fine like that.
Could we maybe have a version with a screwable middle or something like that?

I have thinned the center peg, It should no longer bind as it was reading slightly larger than it should.
If the 2 screws by the extruder that tighten the Z-screw to gantry arm are tight there will be slight compressing in prints, It does not take much to cause binding. I have mine barely hand tight on my home printer and ones i have access to and it fixed a ton of issues friends were having with calibration cubes as well. I do hope this helps.

I would suggest to move the slot in the open version on the other side couse the filament slips out too easily when it is not under a lot of tension (e.g when the filament is retracted). Or maybe even make a little hook around the opening.

Hi there.

First of all, thanks for the effort on this design, it's really appreciated.

I tested the clip first and it wont fit on the extruded profle. I opened it in SolidWorks and apparently the knob at the top has something around 4,5mm of diameter, but the hole on the extrusion is only 4,05mm wide. So I modified the file and made a 3,7mm diameter knob and managed to make it fit.

Best regards.

I've printed this 5 times and non of the parts will not slide together :(

Is it possible to get a version which is one part?

Is there sagging in the inside of the base clip? I'd like to know whats off about your prints to better help. Diagnostics are key.
The 2 part design serves for easy swaps of holder arm and a quicker reprint if something breaks the tabs off.

Thanks for the reply and a great design.

I've attached a few images to show both the "arm" and the "mount" part.

I'm sure it's me, but I don't know how to fix it!

Awesome! Thanks and works well

Too tight, does not fit to the frame.

The tolerance is mildly forgiving but cant be lowered or else its loose in a vast range of machines. Please make sure your 2020 end has no burs from the factory and that the Z screws by the extruder motor are not too tight, causing the Z axis resistance. you will get squishing causing the ends to print wider than they should.

Unfortunately does not fit the CR10, it does fit the extrusion but the Zrod holder at the top wont let it go all the way in

If i shorten the left frame insert a bit would that be the only change needed?

Hi there. Just printed this and had to do the end cap a few times - it wouldn't fit into the frame. I worked out that it was centre piece not fitting (the four side bits slot in perfectly). I got rid of that and it all works great now.

I'm assuming my printer isn't calibrated correctly or something.

thanks for the design/post. i have printed the end cap at least 6 times.... ALL of them fails. ( it wasnt so bad though as its a smaller print. ) the arm itself could be better as well but it does work ( would like a flat side on bottom and more solid on the inner as well... ) i really feel like it could be a simple ( mostly ) fix that a can probably do myself etc... ( in time of course ) i dont mean to complain and all nothing like that etc.. its just that i like the idea of getting things right asap and in this particular case it just does not work. ( because of the loose (( if at all )) fitting of the end cap. i have at least 2 possible ideas in my head right now of how to improve but it will take me additional time as ive had less then a week with the printer itself and am still scrambling to crunch all the software and configuration possibilities into my head. thanks again

I am sorry the end-cap fails for you and agree that getting things correct the first time is paramount. Other than a 3-day flub where an old beta version was uploaded i print everything on the machines I have access to for some quality control. 7/26/2018 is latest version.
I have printed a ton of these and installed them for many in my area getting an ender-3 on my recommendation.
How are they failing? is it just that they are loose? May ask your settings to help you out?
With less than a week using the machine there may be some issues yet to be dialed in.
My current settings for the Ender-3 =
Layer height .13, Initial layer Height .13, Line width 0.35, 5 walls, 5 top layers, 6 bottom layers, 10% infill grid pattern, fill gaps between wall = no, Print temp 194, bed temp 46 (on glass bed with hairspray), Flow 98%, retraction distance 6mm, retraction speed 56, min travel .6mm, print speed 45, travel speed 70, first layer speed 20, no brim or raft but thats just me.
This is the same PLA setup on all the enders we use. All using https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2912394 for cooling.
The Pic is previous variants. blue one has months of use (Original final design, tolerances same as current).

Ender 3 Vent Ring
by Filboyt

thank you for your detailed list of settings. It caused me to investigate the whole cura settings possibilities for my new ender3 and may help me to dial it in to the next level

Hello,
I printed the Flat one a few days ago.
Printed great but I have two reccomendations for you.

The first one is that after around 100 h the filament starts to wear into the material of the ring, so maybe change the design a little so it can take a bowden tube.

The seccond thing is that the end pice doesnt sit verry firm in the Frame.
Maybe make it a Tiny bit larger so we have to force it in but it will stay there.

Thanks for the Work and the frre files.

If you have downloaded the most recent end clip (Updated 7/26/2018) please let me know as it should not be loose at all, Takes mild force to snap in to the machines I have access to. There was about 3 days that a messed up model was uploaded.

As for the wear in thanks for the heads up as I have not experienced this. Remaking one just for bowden tube can be a side project however on my personal Ender 3 i have a soft sponge cut and placed in the circle since i have not made a filament cleaner design i feel good with releasing yet.

I downloadet it on 31.07.18 but I will try print it again.
At my print teh conection between the arm and the clip was perfect to fit with a bit of force.
The connection between Frame and Clip took no force at all.
As for the wear, I dont think its a big deal.
The wear at the moment is just a slight dent in the ring, but I assume it will get faster as more area is rubbing against.

Printed the base and the tabs broke very easily. Wrong infill?

I used 10% minimum during tests. Grid pattern. they should not snap off without some good effort.

The end clip (printed in 0.2 but that probably does not matter) fits well in the guide, but is also too loose and gets out and slowly falls down of its placement after somes time. Maybe you should add a vertical bar under it to try preventing this effect due to the filament that is pulling it down during the print process (as here : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3015832). Adding 0.1 to its dimensions makes it enter more firmly in the rod, but does not change anything for this problem after some time.

2020 Snap On Filament Guide - Ender 3 / CR-10

End Clip has been revised back to low tolerance. Pillar extended and widened.

Dont worry exact the same problem with me. Doesnt print cause the ring dont stick to the bed. Iwill construct something by myself when Ifind some tim.But it is a very good Idea. I use a Geeetech superplate and usually everything sticks to the bed. The ring comes always off and it is printed like a extra part

Version 3 should fix all ring and tolerance issues. Sorry for the delay

I'm new to the whole 3D print experience (had an Ender 3 for a week) and I'm having a lot of trouble printing the guide. I am attempting to print the one with the gap (v2_open).
The issue I am having is the end that the filament will go through once printed.
I've tried raft, skirt and brim in Cura but it only seems to create it for the end that hooks onto the plug in the frame of the printer. I'm guessing the model isn't flat on the bed?
The most luck I had was when I put all the models on the bed (top in the attached pic). The other is with a raft.
Wondering if anyone may know what I'm doing wrong/settings may need tweaking.
Using PLA+ printing at 205 with bed at 50degress.
.15 initial layer height, .2 layer height

It looks like the initial layer or the hook is not sticking to the bed correctly. Have tried re-levelling a couple of times so am thinking it's perhaps more a setting somewhere.

Edit: image with one attempt in is after re-levelling the print bed and using brim

Set initial layer to 0.3mm and other layers to 0.2mm. Also purple glue stick is great to get prints to stick to bed.

Thanks for the tips. I played around with settings and leveling the base more and managed to get a successful print.

I had the same problem. what helped me was to slow the first layer down to 15mm\s

Having a problem with the part that fits into the frame. Those 4 pieces including the middle pin keep breaking off of the print.
Not sure what I am doing wrong.?
I really want this to work for my Ender 3.

What is your slicers settings?

Pretty much stock PLA &resized bed measurements for the CR-10 settings in Cura.
Played with infill (recommended up to 80%. 200/60 degrees.

Gotcha, when you try to place the tabs into the frame it should take a slight wiggle but not much force.
Once center pin is lined up do the side tabs seem too big for the frame? like maybe a slight shave on corners or
printing at 99% size might prevent binding. Or if slightly small, printing at 101%?

Nice would be a version where you can insert a ptfe tube (a 4mm diameter hole) for less friction.

Great design, the open version is more usefull +1

Thank you for the feedback.

Probably a silly question, but would this work the the CR-10 as well?

It will work with any 2020 type rail. I tried to make it acceptable to a broad range of printers.

Thank you! I just printed. Top of printer spool holder and figured something like this would help! Thanks again!

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FWIW: If your printer is not dimensionally calibrated, the pieces won't fit together nor will the end cap fit into the aluminum extrusion. Looking more closely at the "dovetail" joint that attaches the end-cap and filament guide, I suspect the tolerances may be too tight for many printers.

Altered snap end and uploaded 2 variants. Thank you for the feedback.

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Great. I was thinking about making something like this. I will print it tonight. A snap guide to keep the filament from touching the Z screw would be good also. I don't want to take the printer apart to install one that requires it to be screwed on.